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巴罗——阿拉斯加最北端的“独特小城”

Why the Northernmost Town in America Exists

本视频是由Wendover Productions放送 与RealLifeLore合作 并由Squarespace共同制作完成
This is a Wendover Productions video in collaboration with RealLifeLore, and made possible by Squarespace.
登录网站squarespace.com/wendover 创建你自己的网页可以节省10%的花费
Build your website for 10% off by going to squarespace.com/wendover.
有一个地方距离华盛顿3500英里 洛杉矶3000英里 安克拉治北部750英里
3,500 miles from Washington, D.C., 3,000 miles north of Los Angeles, 750 miles north of Anchorage,
这里冰雪永不消融 盛夏飘雪 植物矮小
where the ground never melts, where the snow falls mid-summer, where no plants taller than a
只有几英寸高 冬天有几个月的极夜现象 而极昼又会发生在
few inches grow, where the sun sets for months in the winter and stays up for months in the
夏天的几个月里 这个地方就是位于美国最北端的阿拉斯加巴罗
summer, lies America’s northernmost town—Barrow, Alaska.
搜索地图 巴罗这个村镇一直吸引着我
Combing through maps, Barrow has always intrigued me,
同时我也产生了两个问题
and I had two questions.
为什么这个地方会存在 它是什么样的 因此我亲自去了巴罗
Why does it exist and what is it like. So I visitted it.
如今 再去问巴罗为什么存在似乎看起来是个荒唐可笑的问题
Now, asking why Barrow exists might seem like an absurd question.
你可以问芬利 内华达 格拉夫顿县 弗拉蒙特州 或是其他城镇为什么存在
You could ask the same question for Fernley, Nevada or Grafton, Vermont or any other town
但巴罗是不一样的
but Barrow is a bit unique.
巴罗并不是一个小城镇 至少对比北极其他地方来说
It’s not a small town, at least by Arctic standards.
巴罗居住的人与北阿拉斯加其他地区人数相当
Just as many people live in Barrow as in the entire rest of Northern Alaska.
世上只有一个城镇比巴罗规模更大 位置更北(俄罗斯季克西)
There is only one town on earth larger than and further north than Barrow (Tiksi, Russia)
由于巴罗是世界上最北的地区之一
Considering Barrow is one of the northernmost communities in the world,
其气候条件也不同寻常
the weather is far from typical.
本视频记录了5月30日凌晨1点45的景象 向我们展示了巴罗的与众不同
This clip from 1:45 AM on May 30th shows just how unique it is.
就在几个小时之前 洛杉矶气温达到20度 丹佛21度 哥伦比亚特区34度 达拉斯35度
Just hours before, it was 68 degrees in Los Angeles, 70 in Denver, 93 in D.C., and 96 in Dallas,
全美国人还在阵亡将士纪念日到郊外烧烤
while Americans across the country were having their Memorial Day barbecues
而巴罗 太阳仍旧照耀着大地
and here in Barrow, the sun still lit up the landscape,
不过两点之前它又下起暴雪
and it billowed snow just before two in the morning.
夏天连续几周下雪算不上独特景象
Snowy weather isn’t in the least bit unique in the weeks leading up to summer
甚至6月7月8月大地都常常被大雪覆盖
and even during June, July, and August, the ground regularly gets a light dusting.
这就是北极圈
You can tell it’s the Arctic.
夏季65天里 太阳永不落下 同样冬天65天里 太阳也不会升起
For 65 days in the summer, the sun never sets, then for 65 again in the winter it never rises.
这时候的巴罗是孤寂荒凉的
On the ground, Barrow is… desolate.
北极冻原与冰冻的北冰洋将巴罗环绕包围
It’s bounded on one side by the flat Arctic tundra and the other by the often frozen Arctic Ocean.
这座城镇没有美景可言
There’s little emphasis on aesthetics within the town itself
除了远离沙滩不远处的海冰 星星落落有少许几处
but there are few sights as beautiful as the sea-ice just off of the beach.
巴罗没有一条铺砌路 因为即使有每年也会遭受破坏
There’s not a single paved road in Barrow as they would be destroyed each year
冰雪冻结与融化都会使路面变形
by the shifting land as it freezes and melts.
巴罗甚至都没有道路与外界相连
In fact, there aren’t even roads connecting Barrow to the outside world,
城镇几公里外就更没有道路了
they end just a couple miles out of town.
也就是说一年之中只有几个月
That does mean, though, that for all but a few months of the year
可以出入巴罗 那就是乘坐飞机
there’s only one way in or out—the airplane.
毫不夸张的说巴罗机场就是整个地区的生命线
Barrow’s Airport is quite literally the lifeline of the community.
小镇要依靠飞机来回运输食物 帮助人们外出
The entire town relies on planes going in and out to get food in and people out.
稍令人吃惊的是 每天都有多架喷气式飞机从安克雷奇起飞 飞往巴罗
Somewhat surprisingly, multiple jet planes fly into Barrow each day from Anchorage.
你可以在这座北极圈上的小城开始新的一天 在纽约结束你的一天
You could start your day in this small town above the Arctic Circle and finish in New York.
不用幻想这里有道路和海航 每盎司的食物都是空运到巴罗
With no roads or port, with little exception, every ounce of food flies into Barrow.
甚至还有为这种小城专门量身打造的专属飞机
There’s even a special type of aircraft built almost exclusively to serve small towns
比如巴罗的737飞机
like Barrow—the 737-combi.
这些飞机的特点是 前半部机身是货机 后半部机身是客机
These planes have their front half built like cargo planes and their back half built like passenger planes
以此来服务人数较少的群体 他们不需要整架客机
to serve communities that are small enough that they can’t demand full size cargo airplanes
而且需要交通方式负责乘客往返出行
and still need the way to bring passagers in and out.
然而现在 巴罗也可以逐渐通过船只进行货物供应了
Increasingly nowadays, however, Barrow can be supplied by boat.
一年中几个月的消融破冰 就足可以让船只得以
For just a few months of the year, the ice breaks up enough that a barge can come to
靠岸 将飞机不能运输的货品通过船只输入到巴罗
shore and bring all the goods to Barrow that won’t fit in a plane.
那就是说 如果你需要一辆车或卡车或建筑材料
That means that if you need a car or a truck or building materials,
一年只有一次机会可以订购他们
you have one shot a year to order it.
就像市长所说:
As the mayor says:
“这里生活成本成本高昂 因为许多产品
[Mayor] “Cost of living is very expensive here because a lot of the produce,
由飞机运输 而价格上涨
products are very expensive, because they’re flown in.
航空运输成本较大”
Air freight is very expensive.”
重物尤其昂贵 一个洗手液就要花费15美元 这个除污剂要30美元
Heavy things are incredibly expensive—$15 for this hand sanitizer and $30 for this stain remover.
产品在运输过程中需要冷藏的 比如冷冻披萨
Products that need refrigeration in transport, such as frozen pizza,
竟然达到17美元的天价
are also unnautrally expensive—$17 for this one.
大体积物品也需额外付费 手纸20美元 纸尿布22美元
Bulky things demand a premium too—$20 for some toilet paper and $22 for diapers.
巴罗的地理位置导致其生活成本极其昂贵
The cost of living above the Arctic Circle in Barrow is just extremely high due to its location.
到这样一个陌生的地方游历 有时你需要提醒自己
In visiting such a foreign place, you do sometimes have to remind yourself
你其实就是在迈阿密 明尼阿波利斯市 密尔沃基游览一样
that you’re still in the same country as Miami, Minneapolis, or Milwaukee.
巴罗的存在是告诉你美国的国土究竟有多辽阔
It’s a reminder of just how vast the United States is.
巴罗也有邮局 像富国银行 美式的标志
Barrow still has a US Post Office, a Wells Fargo bank, those American-style sign.
不管怎么说 巴罗就是美国的城市
It’s still an American city,
虽然在地理位置上言 他距离华盛顿都没有他离东京和圣彼得堡近
even if it’s closer to Tokyo, and St. Petersburg than it is to D.C.
所以为什么会有人居住在巴罗
So why do people live in Barrow?
为什么有近5000人选择居住在里北极圈靠近的地方
Why have 5,000 people chosen to live their lives as close to the North Pole
作为他们自己州的行政中心
as to their own state capital?
对于许多居民来说 他们已经住在这几千年了
Well, for many residents, it’s been their home for thousands of years.
巴罗是因纽特人部落的文化中心
Barrow is the cultural center of the Iñupiat tribe
而因纽特人部落也是阿拉斯加本土部落群之一
one of the dozens of native Alaskan tribes.
有证据表明因纽特人居住在巴罗
There’s evidence that the Iñupiat people have lived in the same spot as Barrow for
超过1500年了 这使得他们也成为了早期北美最古老的永久居住人群
more than 1,500 years making it one of the oldest permanently inhabited settlements in North America.
那就是为什么这座城市超过60%的居民是阿拉斯加的原著居民
That’s why over 60% of the residents ofthe city are Alaskan Native
他们之中的大多数都来自于因纽特人部落
mostly from the Iñupiat tribe.
至于剩下40%的人口为何居住在那里 不出所料 是因为石油
The answer to why the other 40% is there, as it often is, is oil.
巴罗也是阿拉斯加北坡区的行政中心
Barrow is the administrative center of the North Slope borough
这无异于等同于一个郡县或地区的地位
the equivalent of a county or region.
巴罗地区实际上要比整个英国的国土面积还辽阔
The area is larger than the entire UnitedKingdom,
但人口却不到1万人
yet less than 10,000 people live within its borders.
其本身并没有丰富的原油 但是普拉德霍湾附近
Barrow itself doesn’t have a significant amount of oil, but nearby Prudhoe Bay has
却是北美最大的油田
the single largest oil deposit in North America.
“大型公司企业已经租赁普拉德霍湾的油田
[Mayor] “The larger companies that have leases out on the Prudhoe Bay oil fields
并雇佣工人填补所需的职位”
hire people to fill in positions that are needed within their services.”
从巴罗到普拉德霍湾工作的人 大多从事钻井
Some people go from Barrow to Prudhoe Bay to work the drills,
但在巴罗也有相对舒适的工作 因为它是自治政府的所在地
but there’s also good work within Barrow as it serves as the home of the borough’s government.
大多数雇主都是来自城市 市镇 州 联邦政府
The primary employers in the area are the city, borough, state, and federal government.
实际上在巴罗你可以挣相当丰厚的工资
And, in fact, you can make some decent money in Barrow.
一般中等家庭收入都会超过8万美元
The median household income is over $80,000
美国平均工资也就才55000美元
compared the US’ average of about $55,000.
当然 正常情况下一周内生活用品的消费也会达到500美元
Of course, when spending $500 a week on groceries is normal,
不过这种花费似乎不值一提 这个城市的确有发展工业
this number seems slightly less impressive, but the city does have real industry.
毋庸置疑 这就是5千人选择留在这个地方的一个重要原因
That, of course, is a big reason why 5,000 people live here.
它完全是一个自给自足的城市
It’s a completely self-sustaining city.
这里的生活成本很贵 非常贵
It’s expensive, hugely expensive, to live here
但那些决定居住在这里的人都是有理由的
but those who do make that choice for a reason.
在美国的很多城市中 巴罗坐落在舞台的中心见证着全球变暖
Among American cities, Barrow sits center stage watching the world warm.
“我想我们每天都在经历气候变化
“I think we live through climate changeon a daily basis.
阿拉斯加北坡受地区和全球气候变化的影响
Climate change and global climate change has its effects on the North Slope
不同季节影响不同
and some see different effects over time as it occurs depending on the season.
大多数情况下 秋季和春季变化尤为明显
Mostly, you can see it in the fall and spring seasons
因为气候变化带来的冰雪消融的影响
in terms of the effects of climate change the thawing,
气温回升 动物开始迁徙
the warmer temperatures, movements of and migrations of animals occurring
现在迁徙的时间要比过去稍微早一点
a little bit more earlier than what they were in the past.
我们每天都在北极圈 应对着这些改变”
These are changes we’re contending with on a daily basis in the Arctic.”
日复一日 北坡区的原油供应就会耗尽
Day by day, the oil supplies in the North Slope Borough run out
可再生能源是世界发展的未来趋势
and the world is turning to renewable energy.
而最大工业的迁移也是这个地区所面临的潜在威胁
The area has a looming threat of its biggest industry moving out.
许多其他的地区也在面临类似的问题 比如阿拉伯联合酋长国 阿曼和挪威
Many other places in a similar situation such as the UAE or Oman or Norway have attempted
这些地区正在尝试通过发展旅游业来弥补石油产业将来会留下的空缺
to fill the gap that oil will leave by growing the tourism industry.
但是 市长布劳尔表示“这非常依赖季节”
But, as Mayor Brower says, “It’s very seasonal.
只有春天到秋天是主要旅游季
It’s only from the spring to the fall—the majority of the tourist season that occurs.
发展旅游事业会对社会群体产生相应利益
There’s some interest in developing tourist entrepreneurship into the communities
可我们仍缺少基础设施建设 例如宾馆 交通工具
but the infrastructure still lacking—a lack of hotels, a lack of transportation needs
旅游项目 这些都是发展旅游业的基本条件
or tourism business items that are needed to conduct tourism
现在很多村子这些设备还不够完善”
they’re not quite developed in a lot of our villages.”
游历巴罗是场冒险 并不是度假 没有人会期待在这会有麦当劳
Visiting Barrow is an adventure, not a vacation, and nobody should come expecting a McDonald’s,
赛格威 和超快的无线网络
and Segway tours, and super-fast Wi-Fi.
美国最北端城镇的海滩呈现出世界少有的景象
The beach of America’s northernmost town presents one of the rarest views in the world
几千英里内没有丝毫人文气息 除了冰 水 再无其他
thousands of miles of civilization free ice, water, and nothingness.
阿拉斯加的车牌或许证明了它是美国最后的边境
Alaska’s license plates may say that thestate itself is America’s last frontier,
可除了巴罗 世上没有其他地方感觉离地球末端这么近了
but nowhere feels closer to the end of the Earth than Barrow, Alaska.
本视频是有Squarespace制作
This video was made possible by Squarespace.
Squarespace是你建立网站的首选
Squarespace is the number-one way to build your website.
他们帮助我建设Wendover Productions网站 这是我自己的播客Showmakers
They power my Wendover Productions website and the website of my podcast, Showmakers.
不用一个小时这两个网站就成立了 而且看起来很不错
Both of those websites were built in less than an hour and look great.
没有什么事比拥有一个专业网站更重要了 你可以通过网站进行你的工作
There are few things as important as having a professional web presence for your business,
搭建你自己的视频网站 你的品牌 你的播客 任何你想做的
your YouTube channel, your band, your blog, or whatever you do,
所以我强烈鼓励你到Squarespace看看他可以为你提供什么
so I highly encourage you to check out what Squarespace can do for you.
不需要有多好看 向别人展示出为你自己定做的网站
It doesn’t have to be anything fancy, but nothing is more professional than giving out a link to your custom website
通过它让别人了解你和你的工作 这最专业不过了
that tells someone about you or what you do.
在squarespace.com/wendover网站上你可以享受9折优惠
You can get 10% off your custom website by going to squarespace.com/wendover.
我到世界最顶端的地方旅游拍视频
This project where I travelled literally to the top of the world to film a video would
如果没有Squarespace的支持这一切都难以实现
never have been possible without Squarespace’s support
所以我希望你至少在squarespace.com/wendover网站上浏览一下
so I do hope you go at least check them out over at squarespace.com/wendover.
此次我到巴罗和 Real Life Lore 和Second Thought两个频道的人一起去的
I travelled to Barrow with the guys behind two channels—Real Life Lore and Second Thought.
你可以在这城镇里观看到他们的视频
You can find their videos on the town here.
请一定要在我的Showmakers播客上观看 并且订阅这个频道
Please also be sure to check out my podcast Showmakers and subscribe to this channel to
这样你就可以收看将来更新的所有视频了
get all future videos right when they come out.
再次感谢您的收看
Thanks again for watching
两周之后我会放送另一个Wendover Productions视频 期待你的观看
and I’ll see you in two weeks for another Wendover Productions video.

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视频概述

巴罗位于阿拉斯加最北端,一年经历着极昼极夜的交替,拥有着夏季飞雪的奇特景象,游历巴罗那将是一场别样的冒险

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视频来源

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MP1OAm7Pzps

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