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为什么石蟹钳这么贵?

Why Stone Crab Claws Are So Expensive | So Expensive

Stone crab claws are one of the priciest seafoods you can buy.
石蟹钳是你可以买到最昂贵的海产品之一
And depending on their size,
根据它们的大小
a pound of claws at a restaurant
餐馆里 一磅重的蟹钳
can cost as much as $70.
价格可达70美元
But catching these crabs is hard work.
但是捕蟹工作是很艰难的
Strangely enough,
奇怪的是
fishers can only harvest the claws from the crabs,
渔民只能从螃蟹身上获取蟹钳
while the bodies must be returned to the ocean.
而躯体必须扔回大海
So, what makes these claws so coveted?
那么 是什么让这些蟹钳如此令人垂涎?
And why are they so expensive?
它们又为何如此昂贵?
You can only fish for stone crab on the southeastern coast of the US,
你只能在美国东南海岸
Cuba, the Bahamas, and Mexico.
古巴 巴哈马和墨西哥捕捞到石蟹
And it’s Florida where more stone crabs are caught
在佛罗里达能捕获的石蟹数量
than anywhere else.
比其他任何地方都多
These crustaceans are markedly more expensive
很明显 这些甲壳类动物
than other popular crabs.
比其他受欢迎的螃蟹更贵
A pound of claws can cost two times the price of Alaskan snow crab legs.
一磅蟹钳比阿拉斯加雪蟹腿的价格贵两倍
Part of what makes these crabs so costly
这些螃蟹如此昂贵
is the labor-intensive process of catching them.
部分是因为 其捕捞颇费劳力
Ernie Piton: There’s a nice crab.
厄尼·皮顿:有一只不错的螃蟹
Narrator: Ernie Piton Jr. has been commercially fishing
(旁白)小厄尼·皮顿从事石蟹的商业捕捞
for stone crabs for over 40 years.
已有40多年了
With limited time to harvest each year,
由于每年收获期有限
his crew must start their days early,
他的船员必须提早开始工作
sailing out before the sun rises.
在太阳升起之前出发
The process begins with dropping traps
首先要将捕鱼器
down to the ocean floor.
扔到海底
Kevin Henry: This is probably the funnest part, you know?
凯文·亨利:你知道吗 这是最有趣的部分
You get to be a little more physical,
你要更多的体力才行
you know what I mean?
你懂我的意思吗
It’s a little bit of a rhythm thing going on here.
这里有一点节奏
It’s like dancing mariachi.
就像跳舞的墨西哥流浪乐队
Narrator: But plucking these claws
(旁白)但是拔这些蟹钳
can be a dangerous process.
是一个危险的过程
Bill Kelly: The claws on an adult crab
比尔·凯利:一只成年螃蟹的蟹钳
can have as much as 9,000 pounds of pressure per square inch.
每平方英寸能承受高达9000磅的压力
With the enormous pressure that’s exerted,
其施加的巨大的压力
they could actually pop a finger off at the joint.
足以在关节处扯掉一根手指
Kevin: These crabs, they have a mind of their own.
凯文:这些螃蟹 它们有自己的想法
You can easily get bit,
你很容易被咬
you know, if you’re not careful.
你知道 如果你不小心的话
I’ve only been bit maybe, say, eight times in my career.
在我的职业生涯中 我大概被咬过八次
Popped over a million claws in my day.
我那时取出过上百万只蟹钳
Narrator: The crew leaves the traps in the water
(旁白)船员们把捕鱼器留在水里
for about two weeks
大约两周后
before they’re pulled in by a rope.
再用绳子把它们拉上来
Then each one must be sorted thoroughly.
然后每一个都要彻底分类
Kevin: We come back in a couple weeks,
凯文:我们几周后回来
and then got a couple in the trap,
然后逮到一些
we’re gonna pull them out.
我们要把他们拉出来
We’re gonna pop their claws and hope for a good day.
我们要取下他们的钳子 希望有美好的一天
Narrator: Crews break off the claws quickly,
(旁白)船员们迅速折断钳子
so they don’t keep the crabs out of water for too long.
这样不会让螃蟹离开水太久
But even if a trap is full of crabs,
但即使陷阱里全是螃蟹
Kevin can’t necessarily take every claw.
凯文不一定要取每一个钳子
The state requires all harvested claws
该州要求所有捕获的蟹钳
to be at least 2 7/8 inches long.
至少有2又7/8英寸长
Crabbers can legally break off both claws if they meet the required size.
只有符合要求大小 才能合法地折断整对蟹钳
Ernie: The ones that look smaller, we measure them on the gauge.
厄尼:我们在量规上测量 丢掉尺寸小点的
Like that one.
比如这个
Narrator: Crabs are one of few animals that can regenerate.
(旁白)螃蟹是少数几种可以再生的动物
When a crab loses a claw — or two —
当一只螃蟹失去了一个或两个蟹钳时
it can grow each one back in time.
它能及时地重新长出蟹钳
On average, claws can take up to three years
蟹钳平均需要三年的时间生长
to grow large enough to harvest again,
才能够满足二次捕获的条件
which is why the state requires
这就是为什么该州要求
that crabbers pay close attention to each claw’s size.
捕蟹者密切注意每个蟹钳的大小
This ensures fishers don’t remove one prematurely.
这确保了渔民不会过早地移除蟹钳
But despite the claws’ ability to regrow,
尽管蟹钳有再生能力
some researchers have questioned
一些研究人员还是质疑
the sustainability of this system.
这个系统的可持续性
The Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission
佛罗里达鱼类和野生动物保护委员会发现
found that 46% to 82% of crabs died
46%到82%的螃蟹
from the loss of two claws,
死于失去两个蟹钳
while 23% to 59% died from the removal of one.
而23%到59%的螃蟹死于移除一个
That’s compared to just 12.8% of crabs
相比之下 只有12.8%的螃蟹
that died when no claws were removed.
在没有切除蟹钳的情况下死亡
Crabs can also only regrow a claw if the joint that linked it is left intact.
螃蟹也只有关节完好无损 才能重新长出钳子
Otherwise, it’ll bleed to death.
否则会失血过多而死
This makes the way these claws are broken
合理折断蟹钳的方式
all the more important for preserving the fishery’s future.
对未来渔业保护更为重要
Hiring enough people to make the operation run smoothly
雇佣足够多的人来确保操作顺利进行
is another reason for the high price of these claws.
是这些蟹钳价格高的另一个原因
And then there’s one other cost you’d never expect.
还有另一个你意想不到的花费
Each trip requires 900 pounds of pig’s feet for bait.
每次出海捕捞都要900磅的猪蹄做诱饵
And that’s just about half
而这占到了
of the total cost of fishing for the day.
全天捕鱼总成本的一半
Ernie: Normal running cost to go stone crabbing today
厄尼:今天离港捕捞石蟹的
is about $1,100 to leave the dock.
正常运行费用大约花费1100美元
Bait prices have gone up,
鱼饵价格上涨了
fuel prices have gone up.
燃料价格上涨了
You know, the track tag prices have gone up.
你知道 追踪标签价格上涨了
Narrator: After 10 hours on the boat,
(旁白)在船上呆了10个小时后
Ernie’s crew must boil and ice their catch as soon as they return,
厄尼的船员一回来 便把捕获的所有产品煮沸冰冻
otherwise the claws won’t stay fresh.
否则蟹钳就不能保持新鲜了
They finish the day by weighing each claw,
他们每天最后的工作是称量每只蟹钳
which ultimately sets the final value.
然后确定最终价格
Claws are sold in four sizes. At Billy’s Stone Crab,
在比利时石蟹餐厅 蟹钳有四种尺寸出售
restaurant prices range from $35 to $70 per pound.
餐馆的价格从每磅35美元到70美元不等
Brian Hershey: We run about 4,000 pounds
布莱恩·赫尔希:我们每周给餐厅
of stone crab through the restaurant each week.
供应大约4000磅石蟹
On a busy weekend, we sell 700 to 800 pounds of stone crab.
在繁忙的周末 我们出售700到800磅的石蟹
Narrator: The most expensive order costs $140.
(旁白)最贵的订单要140美元
The plate is made up of four 7-ounce colossal claws,
盘子上有4个7盎司的巨型蟹爪
which yields just under 1 pound of crabmeat.
能产生将近1磅的蟹肉
Fresh-cooked claws sold on ice are less expensive,
煮熟的冰鲜蟹钳比较便宜
but even then, the mediums will cost you
但即便如此 这还是要花费
$29 per pound.
每磅29美元的价钱
Years ago, stone crabs weren’t such valuable food.
多年前 石蟹并不是那么有价值的食物
In the 1890s, they were nothing more than bycatch
在19世纪90年代 它们不过是捕捞大螯虾
in spiny-lobster traps.
顺带的的副产品
Fishers began to keep the crabs that fell into those traps,
渔夫们开始饲养这些落入陷阱的螃蟹
and by the late 20th century,
到了20世纪末
the stone crab fishery had become
石蟹渔业已经成为
one of the most valuable industries in Florida.
佛罗里达州最有价值的产业之一
Today, it’s worth $30 million,
如今 市值3000万美元
and the prices of these claws
而且这些蟹钳的价格
aren’t likely to drop anytime soon.
短期内不太可能下降
Data from the FWC show the number of crabs caught each year
FWC的数据显示 每年捕获的螃蟹数量
has declined by 712,000 pounds. That’s since peak harvest in the late 1990s.
自上世纪90年代末收获高峰以来 减少71.2万磅
Many commercial harvesters
许多商业捕捞者
have also started fishing farther offshore,
也开始在离岸更远的地方捕鱼
pointing to a lesser number of crabs in the area.
指出这一地区的螃蟹数量较少
The FWC says both of these changes
FWC表示 这两个变化
signify a threat of overfishing,
都意味着过度捕捞的威胁
and prices have gone up in order to keep the fishery profitable.
为了把持渔业盈利 价格也已上涨
the FWC instated even stricter regulations last year.
FWC去年颁布了更严格的规定
Two changes include an increase
两项变化包括
in the minimum size of harvestable claws
增加可收获蟹钳的最小尺寸
and cutting the fishing season short by two weeks.
并将捕鱼季节缩短两周
These limitations aren’t likely
这些限制不太可能
to lower the cost of stone crab claws.
降低石蟹爪的成本
But the goal is to help preserve them
能够帮助保护石蟹
and keep Florida fishers busy for years to come.
并让佛罗里达的渔民在未来几年忙得不可开交
Kevin: One crab, I remember,
凯文:我记得有一只螃蟹
my favorite crab I ever saw,
那是我见过的螃蟹中最喜欢的
it looked like a Louis Vuitton pattern.
看起来像路易威登的图案
Bunch of diamonds. And it was just a pretty thing.
镶满钻石 它真的太漂亮了

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视频概述

石蟹爪为什么成为餐桌上昂贵的美食?如何获取这些石蟹钳呢?海洋渔业的未来在哪里?这个视频里你都能找到答案。

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视频来源

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPU-k823BPs

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