– There is a rumor
有传言说
that in order for a Rolex to actually leave the factory or be a Rolex design
为了凸显劳力士设计的大牌效应
it has to be to recognizable from 20 feet away.
必须保证人们在20英尺外就认出它
为什么劳力士手表如此昂贵
Hi, I’m Cara Barrett, editor at Hodinkee,
我叫卡拉·贝瑞特 是《Hodinkee》的一名编辑
the leading online watch publication.
Hodinkee是一流的线上手表刊物
Rolex is one of the few brands,
在独特审美上
if not the only brand that has a very specific aesthetic.
劳力士即使不是唯一 也是其中翘楚
They are sporty, they are active, they are tool watches
兼具运动 活力 工具性
that’s kind of their main DNA.
这是劳力士的设计理念
In the 50’s they came out with the Submariner,
60年代他们推出了“潜航者”
the Explorer, the Milgauss, the GMT
“探险家”“闪电针”“绿针”
and they were all watches that were designed and made to be used as tools.
这些手表的设计契合工具性理念
And so that’s their bread and butter and it still is today.
这也是劳力士经久不衰的原因
It kind of evolved into a luxury brand later in life
后期劳力士逐渐演变成奢侈品牌
which now is what they’re known for.
并以此闻名世界
So that’s kind of the interesting thing about them
这听起来很有趣
is they initially were tool watches
劳力士最初只是作为工具手表
which have now become luxury.
而现在变成了奢侈品
Rolex is kind of one of those brands
在奢侈手表谱系上
that sits on the lower end of the spectrum as far as luxury watches are concerned.
劳力士算不上高端品牌
The Submariner’s $8,000.
潜航者售价8000美元
The entry-level watch at Rolex is $5,000 with the Oyster Perpetual.
经典款“蚝式恒动”的价位是5000美元
Their three qualities are self-winding, waterproof and precision.
劳力士的三个特质是自动上发条 防水且精确
And they really focus on quality.
劳力士设计师十分注重品质
It takes one year to make a Rolex.
制作一只劳力士需要一年
They go through extensive testing.
其间要经过大量测试
The accuracy, the chronometer, the timing,
精密度测试 计时器测试 定时测试
it’s all about telling the right time,
这些测试都是为了显示准确的时间
keeping the right time.
并保持
They also have extensive service work after,
他们的售后服务也很好
so if you ever have a problem with your Rolex,
如果你的劳力士出现了问题
you can take it to them and they’ll fix it.
你可以拿给售后人员 他们会帮你修好
The clasp is opened and closed a thousand times before it leaves
出厂前表扣经过上千次检测
so you know that when you get it,
所以你放心购买
it’s not gonna break.
它不会坏的
The whole point of a Rolex is you buy one now,
最关键的是 如果你现在买了一块劳力士
it will last you for 20 years if you take care of it.
好好爱护的话 可以使用20年
It will last you for 100 if you really take care of it.
精心爱护它 可以使用100年
That’s ultimately why they’re so expensive
这就是劳力士手表昂贵的根本原因
because you’re buying something that will last you a lifetime presumably.
因为它差不多可以用一辈子
And something that you can pass down to other generations as well.
你还能把它传给下一代
In the collectors’ world, there’s the vintage Rolex market.
在收藏家眼里 劳力士是有收藏价值的
And there’s a whole underground of different nuances
每只劳力士都有些微差别
and you know there’s a GMT with a matte dial,
有哑光表盘的“绿针”
a GMT with a gilt dial
有镀金表盘的“绿针”
and there are all these tiny little details
这些微小的细节
that change and they make a watch more or less valuable.
决定着手表价格的高低
There’s the Paul Newman Daytona which sold for $17.8 million last fall
去年秋天保罗·纽曼迪通拿以1780万美元的高价卖出
and that’s the most expensive Rolex that’s ever sold at auction.
这是迄今为止拍卖会上出售的最贵的劳力士
The Paul Newman Daytona is a really good example
以保罗·纽曼迪通拿为例
where they came out with a Daytona back in the 70s
70年代 劳力士设计师推出了这款迪通拿
and they put these exotic dials on them
他们把这些具有异国情调的表盘装上去
and they couldn’t sell them.
销量不佳
And now they’re the most collectible watches on the vintage market.
如今迪通拿是市面上最有收藏价值的手表
No one knows how many Rolexes are produced per year,
没人知道每年生产多少只劳力士
no one knows how many Rolexes are produced per model.
也没人知道每款劳力士会生产多少只
But there are specific ones,
但是每一只劳力士都是独一无二的
like the Rainbow Daytona that came out this year,
就像今年推出的彩虹圈迪通拿
rumored to have X amount made, but very small quantities.
传闻不实 但数量确实很少
You don’t ever know exactly what the number is,
你永远不会知道确切数字
but you do know that there aren’t that many.
只知道没有那么多
And they’re hard to get.
而且很难买到
One of the best things about Rolex
劳力士最棒的一点就是
is anyone can wear any of them.
任何人都能戴上任意一块劳力士
They’re very unisex and I think that that’s refreshing
它们是男女通用的 我觉得这让人耳目一新
’cause a lot of times brands put a lot of diamonds on watches
因为大多数品牌产品会在手表上镶钻
and kind of brand it as a woman’s watch.
并将其认定为女士手表
Whereas Rolex does the same thing,
劳力士的款式也分男女
but it’s kind of unisex.
但其性别特质不那么明显
I wear a lot of men’s Rolex.
我戴过很多劳力士男表
But the ladies Datejust is actually, in two-tone,
但事实上在所有男女款式中 女士Datejust系列
is actually the most sold Rolex model of all time.
一直都是最畅销的
Which is a really fun fact.
这真的很有趣