[Narrator] This is the Jordan 1 Retro Fragment.
[解说]这是一双AJ复古鞋
It originally retailed for $185 in 2014.
2014年的原始零售价为185美元
But today a pair can resell for up to $2,000.
但现在一双已经涨到了2000美元
And this is the Yeezy Boost 350 V2 Core Black/Red,
这是一双椰子红黑350
which retailed at $220 in 2016 and now resells for $900.
2016年零售价220美元 而现在转售价900美元
The Fragment’s resale value more than doubles its competition.
AJ鞋的转售价已经超过了椰子鞋售价的两倍
These shoes were both sold in limited releases,
这些鞋子只有在特定地区可以买到
so why did Jordans become so much more expensive?
那么为什么AJ变得那么贵呢？
太贵了！
It all has to do with the value
这完全归功于
of the Jordan brand
乔丹这个牌子的价值
and how it makes and markets its iconic sneakers.
以及其制造和售卖的方式
Matt Powell: The fact that it’s made in China where the tariffs are higher
马特·鲍威尔：AJ在关税高的中国生产
made in the best factories， made with more material
在最好的工厂 用更多的材料生产
( basketball shoes tend to use more material than a running shoe )
（通常篮球鞋比跑鞋更耗费材料）
and then trying to be as close as the original product
然后尽量使产品贴近原版
are all things that have driven prices up there.
这些因素就导致了AJ价格的上涨
According to Matt’s research, the average price of a basketball sneaker is about $110,
据马特调查 普通篮球鞋的平均价格是110美元
while a Jordan’s average price is about $145.
然而AJ的平均价格是145美元
To understand why Jordan Brand can charge more,
为了理解为什么AJ价格更高
let’s go all the way back to the beginning, before the Jordan 1 was introduced.
让我们追溯到AJ一代被推出之前
Before the 1984-85 season,
在1984-85赛季之前
Nike signed an unproven MJ to a five-year deal
耐克和乔丹签署了一份未经证实的五年合同
worth more than three times the richest contract at that point.
价值是当时最贵的合同三倍多
But that wasn’t the only unusual decision Nike made
但那不是耐克公司在上市AJ时
while launching the Air Jordan brand.
做的唯一一个奇怪的决定
The Air Jordan 1 swapped the standard white upper for a black one
比如: AJ一代将鞋上的白色换成黑色
which violated the NBA’s uniform policy
这违反了NBA的制服规定
and resulted in a $5,000 fine per game.
导致每场比赛都要支付5000美元的罚金
Announcer: On September 15,
播报 在九月十五号
Nike created a revolutionary new basketball shoe.
耐克公司推出了一款划时代的球鞋
On October 18, the NBA threw them out of the game.
十月十八号 NBA禁止球员穿着AJ比赛
Nike recognized this unique marketing opportunity
耐克公司意识到了这个独特的上市机遇
and footed Mike’s bill as he went on to win Rookie of the Year,
于是让乔丹穿着印有他名字的鞋参加每场比赛
playing every game in his banned namesake sneaker.
那一年他赢了火箭队
Amir Ismael: It just showed that he was rebellious,
阿米尔-伊斯内尔认为：这显示了乔丹的叛逆性
and it was something that people gravitated to,
这也就是人们被吸引的原因
and they wanted to wear them too.
人们也愿意去穿AJ
It was like first sneaker that really shook up sneaker culture.
那是第一双真正冲击球鞋文化的鞋
I think it’s the shoe that catapulted sneakers to where they are today,
我认为是AJ鞋本身让它们达到了今天的地位
because it was the first shoe that people saw
因为它是人们看见的第一双特别的鞋
and wanted more than the average shoe.
导致大家对AJ的热情比普通鞋子要高很多
[Narrator] Mike’s success as a rookie
[解说]迈克作为新秀的成功
made a big impact on Nike’s bottom line.
给耐克公司带来了很大的影响
The original Jordan 1 hit stores across America in March 1985, priced at $65.
AJ一代在1985年3月风靡美国 售价65美元
And at the end of the year,
在1985年年底
the Air Jordan franchise had made $100 million in revenue.
AJ的财政收入已经到达1亿美元
The Air Jordan 2 wasn’t as successful.
但是AJ二代没有那么成功
After just 18 games in his new design,
因为在迈克穿着二代比赛18场后
Jordan suffered a season-ending broken foot.
他的脚突然受伤并且退出赛季
Reports surfaced about Mike being unhappy
当时报道称乔丹本人十分难过
and looking to jump ship to Adidas.
甚至一度想和阿迪达斯签约
The Air Jordan 3 became a crucial crossroads for Jordan and Nike.
AJ三代对于乔丹和耐克公司来说是一个巨大的转折
Enter Tinker Hatfield. Today, he’s known as the architect of modern sneaker design.
廷克·哈特菲尔德 目前以现代球鞋设计大师而出名
Back then, he was known for innovating Nike’s Air Max technology.
当时 他因创新耐克的气垫技术而闻名
His Jordan 3 design became legendary.
他设计的AJ三代简直变成了传奇
It pioneered the first-ever mid-cut basketball sneaker,
延克的中切球鞋和大象印花设计让AJ成为先锋
included elephant-print overlays, and immortalized His Airness in the Jumpman logo.
他也使AJ商标上的飞人不朽
And Tinker incorporated his Air Max technology into the sole.
延克后来也把他的气垫技术应用于鞋底
Matt Cohen: Those three things, I think,
马特-科恩解释道：我认为是这三件事情
brought its cultural importance
给AJ带来了文化上的重要地位
because it was a statement shoe, right?
AJ是很个性鞋子 是吧?
So now you’re actually making a statement
所以在你穿着篮球鞋的时候
by wearing a basketball shoe,
实际上在展示自己的个性
which wasn’t necessarily the purpose of wearing a basketball shoe off-court.
虽然那不一定是你在场外穿着篮球鞋本来的目的
[Narrator] The company’s roll out of the Jordan 3
[解说]耐克公司首次展示AJ三代的时候
was equally as legendary as the design.
效果和它的设计一样的惊人且永久
Nike’s marketing team connected Jordan with Spike Lee
耐克的营销团队让乔丹和斯派克·李合作
for what would become some of the most memorable commercials in history.
成就了史上最具有纪念意义的广告
Spike Lee: You know how I get up from my game?
斯派克·李：你知道我为什么能获胜吗？
Do you know? Do you know? Do you know?
你知道吗？你想知道吗？你真的知道吗？
That’s right, Air Jordan, Air Jordan, Air Jordan.
对了！是因为AJ 是AJ成就了我
Powell: You really saw the Jordan brand become
鲍威尔表示：你可以清楚的看见AJ在美国是如何
a luxury brand in the United States.
变成一个奢侈品的牌子
It was our designer sneaker, and it made the shoes very visible,
AJ球鞋的设计让它变得十分瞩目
and that’s a big part of conspicuous consumption
而且那很大一部分是炫耀性消费
is to be able to look across the room and see that
人们眼睛扫过全场可以确认
that person’s wearing a $100 shoe or $300 shoe in today’s parlance.
别人的鞋是100美元一双还是300美元一双
[Narrator] During all this, the price of Jordans had jumped to $100,
[解说]经历这些以后 AJ的价格涨到100美元每双
significantly higher than the top basketball sneaker at the time, Converse’s Weapon.
比那时最高端的匡威篮球鞋要贵上许多
Jordan marketed its sneakers as a luxury product, to match MJ’s talent and style,
乔丹将AJ作为奢侈品来推广 这点很符合迈克尔-乔丹的天资和风格
and in the process created a cultural phenomenon,
并且在这过程中催生了一种文化现象
bringing sports apparel into the mainstream.
将运动服饰产业带入主流
Cohen: He was a very marketable figure,
科恩认为：乔丹是一个非常具有商业头脑的人
with a great smile and a big hoop earring,
带着微笑和大大的铁环耳钉
and people wanted to look like him.
人们都喜欢看着乔丹
And so you started seeing this face all over the world.
正因为人们的喜爱 全世界都能看到他
[Narrator] But the brand priced out kids from low-income families who wanted them the most.
[解说]但是AJ这个对于低收入家庭并且很想要它们的孩子来说过于昂贵
And by the’90s, Jordans were so coveted,
到了九十年代 AJ还是很受欢迎
violence erupted around them.
以至于暴力因AJ而产生
Two teens were even killed for their Jordan sneakers.
两个孩子甚至因为穿着AJ被杀
Jordans were a status symbol that couldn’t be stopped.
乔丹作为一个标志是不争的事实
Ismael: Whether you’re into fashion,
伊斯内尔认为：无论你是时尚界的人士
whether you’re into sports, or whether you’re just a fan of Michael Jordan himself,
还是参与运动的人 亦或仅仅是乔丹的粉丝
you have to know about Jordan Brand,
你就一定知道AJ
you have to own something from Jordan Brand.
你也一定要入手AJ的东西
[Narrator] Hatfield continued to design Jordan’s signature sneakers for the next 12 years.
[解说]哈特菲尔德继续为AJ设计球鞋了十二年
The Jordan brand became a sneaker giant,
后来AJ变成了鞋业巨头
and MJ became the greatest player in basketball history.
迈克尔·杰克逊也成为了篮球史上最成功的球员
Their run lasted for more than a decade,
它们的辉煌延续了数十年
but that was all about to change.
但事情总会改变
In 2013, Adidas released new technology,
2013年 阿迪达斯展现了新技术
signed Kanye West, and started making big gains.
并和肯尼·维斯特签 开始大幅获利
Despite increased competition, Jordan’s prices stayed high.
然而对手的竞争力变强AJ的价格依然很高
That year’s new Jordans retailed at $250,
那一年新款的AJ零售价为史上最高的250美元
the highest price for a new signature Jordan released at that point.
因为AJ那时候出现了新标志
Retro prices jumped too.
AJ复古款的价格也上涨了
A retro is a rerelease of an original shoe.
复古款的AJ是基础款的再发行
A Sneaker Life: $220 for these, $400 for these.
这双要220美元 这双要400美元
Cohen:This happens with every sneaker brand.
这种事情每个球鞋牌子都会发生
As they see the resale prices of their shoes go higher,
当公司看见他们转售的鞋子价格一直上涨时
they want more of the pie,
他们就想要更多的钱
and so they started to try and get more of the pie
于是他们开始发行更多的复古款来获利
Ismael: When Adidas came out with a lot of
伊斯内尔认为：当阿迪达斯推出许多
their more popular styles during that era,
在鞋市更加流行款鞋子的时候
it caused a lot of people to just say,
让很多人都开始说
“I’m gonna stop buying Jordans for right now,
“我先不买AJ了”
and I’m gonna focus on these newer styles that are comfortable,
“我要买那些舒服又新颖的鞋子”
that are cool, that are trendy.”
“它们不光很酷 还很潮”
[Narrator] Jordans weren’t selling out
[解说]因此乔丹没有卖出
as fast as they had in previous years,
和他们以前一样好的效果
and Jordan increased supply to balance out revenues.
乔丹甚至增加货源来平衡财政收入
But it oversaturated the market.
但是这种做法使市场过度饱和了
According to Sole Collector, between September and November 2017,
根据售卖商的数据 在2017年的九月到十一月中
Jordan released 30 different retros.
AJ推出了30款不同的复古鞋
The price hikes, combined with an oversaturated market and increased competition
AJ的价格在市场饱和且竞争激烈的情况下继续上涨
led to what Sole Collector called”Jordan Fatigue,”
后来售卖商称之为“乔丹的疲劳”
and Adidas’ market share nearly doubled.
而阿迪达斯占市场份额几乎是以前的两倍
Jordan Brand President Larry Miller admitted
AJ现任执行官承认
that the brand had released too many shoes
AJ放了太多的鞋子进入市场
and needed to figure out how to connect to young consumers again.
而且急需搞清楚如何重新吸引年轻消费者
And Nike CEO Mark Parker did just that with his edit-and-amplify strategy.
而耐克CEO马克·帕克有他自己的扩张方法
He helped Nike R & D cut down from 350 sneaker ideas to 50.
他帮助耐克研发部将350个运动鞋创意减少到50个
This helped the company be more disciplined
让耐克公司变得更有秩序
and catch up with the speed of the sneaker market.
而且还能赶得上鞋市更新的速度
Powell: The secret sauce for Jordan over the years
鲍威尔表示：AJ这么多年来流行的秘诀
has always been unrequited demand,
被看作不被满足的需求
never having enough shoes to satisfy the market,
也就是AJ从未满足市场所有需求
which made the kid come back on the next release
这让年轻人期待着下一双上市的AJ
and hope that he would get a pair.
并且很想拥有一双
[Narrator] Jordan mounted its comeback in 2018.
[解说]AJ在2018年的回归让它再次成功
The brand ramped up offerings for female customers, and its Concord 11 Retro release
帕克表示 AJ为巩固女性消费群体而推出的Concord 11
was its most successful shoe introduction ever, according to Parker.
是史上从未有过的成功上市
And they’ve been able to connect to a new generation,
AJ也已经有能力去吸引年轻一代
tapping Travis Scott, Virgil Abloh, and more
通过特拉维斯·斯科特 维吉尔·阿布洛等明星
to offer their takes on the historic designs.
来担起推广AJ新产品的设计
Powell:Today you don’t really need to market a Jordan product,
鲍威尔认为：现在你用不着特意去推广AJ产品
and so it becomes a pull market.
因为AJ本身就是一个大市场
The idea is that the product is so sensational,
这是由于AJ的产品非常容易引起轰动
so wanted by the consumer, that it’s pulling them into the store.
如此的被喜爱 这样AJ就自然的进入市场
[Narrator] The brand is pulling in customers like the old days,
[解说]AJ正促使消费者们 像过去一样的疯狂追求它
and according to Parker, Jordan 1s are more coveted than ever.
帕克认为 AJ一代比以往更加受欢迎
Resale info backs that up.
转售信息证明了这一点
Remember that comparison we did at the beginning?
还记得我们在开始做了怎样的比较吗？
It looks like Jordan is getting the balance just right between nostalgia and innovation.
看起来AJ在复古和创新中找平衡
A Sneaker Life: This has to be my favorite sneaker of all time.
这是我一直以来最喜爱的鞋
This is the Air Jordan 4 White Cement.
这双是AJ四代白水泥
Just Souled Out: The Aleali May Jordan 1 Viotech.
这是刚刚售完的AJ五月阿莱丽紫光一代
Jacques Slade: The Air Jordan 1.
这是AJ一代
It represents the beginning of Jordan’s career.
代表着乔丹篮球生涯的开始
Just Souled Out: I think it’s interesting to see how the Jordan brand continues to evolve
我认为看着AJ是如何 继续进步和深入
as it ventures deeper into the women and unisex market.
女性及无性市场是很有意思的
A Sneaker Life: You know, it just reminds me of my childhood.
你知道嘛 AJ让我想到了我的童年
This is really what got me into the sneaker game.
这是让我成为收藏者的真正原因
Jacques Slade: It’s the reason why
这是我们
a lot of us sneakerheads exist.
很多球鞋爱好者存在的原因
And this Lakers colorway, man, that’s just perfect.
这双湖人色AJ简直是完美
The Jordan 1 is, like,
AJ一代现在仍是
the shoe that sparked sneaker culture as it is today.
唤起了整个球鞋文化的重要球鞋
I think that’s the main shoe that created
我认为是它创造了
some sort of frenzy or connection to shoes
对鞋子的狂热爱好或者是联系
versus”this is a cool shoe I want to wear.”
以及“这鞋好帅啊 我想穿”这种现象
It was something people could really connect to.
那是真正可以引起人们共鸣的东西