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为什么纽约有最好的甜甜圈

Why New York Has the Best Bagels

今天我们先要发表一项大胆声明
Today we’re starting with a bold statement:
纽约的甜甜圈是世界上最好的甜甜圈
New York City has the best bagels anywhere.
没有之一
Period.
让键盘侠 黑子们喷吧 这能让我们更强
Let the hate flow, bagel trolls, it only makes us stronger.
化学反应介绍
[Reactions Intro]
节目组实地考察了全球甜甜圈之都纽约
Reactions took a field trip to the bagel
我们将现场了解一下
capital of the world to figure out what makes
这的甜甜圈为何如此美味
a New York bagel so delicious.
我们到了格林威治村
We went to the bustling Murray’s Bagels in
进到了穆雷甜甜圈的厨房
Greenwich Village, and got to go behind the scenes.
纽约的甜甜圈的确是最棒的
Now, while New York’s bagel supremacy is well established,
但很多人对其中的原因却看法不一
many people seem to disagree on why.
过去长久以来许多人认为
For a long time, many insisted it was the
这其中的秘诀之一就在水龙头里
one ingredient that comes from the tap…
这里的水确实能使纽约甜甜圈
The “woa-tah”, as they say, does play a minor
变得美味可口
role in how New York bagels turn out.
纽约城市用水多来自
The city gets much of its water from the
北方约75英里外的卡茨基尔山
Catskill mountains, about 75 miles north.
卡茨基尔山的水向来很“软”
The water from the Catskills is traditionally
也就是说水中的钙和镁
“soft” meaning it has low concentrations
浓度比较低
of calcium and magnesium.
其实纽约的水算是全国最软的了
Actually, New York has some of the softest water in the country.
除了波士顿 所以很多波士顿人会抱怨
The only softer city is Boston, leading some in Beantown to shout
“纽约的水真是太硬了”
“The wahtah in New Yawk is wicked haahhd”.
不管怎样
Anyway.
这就是区别
Here’s why it makes a difference.
水中的矿物质含量会影响
The mineral content of water affects
面团中的面筋强度
the gluten in the dough.
水太硬会增加面筋的强度
Extra hard water strengthens the gluten, which
烤出来的东西也会较硬
can make for tougher baked goods.
水太软则会使面团变得太粘稠
If the water’s too soft, your dough gets too goopy.
但这真的是H2O(水)的问题吗?
But is it really the H2O that makes the bagel?
不是
No.
美国烹饪学院的厨师理查德·科皮奇
Chef Richard Coppedge of the Culinary Institute of America
带我们了解了做优质甜甜圈的全过程
took us through everything that goes into a great bagel.
据他所说 烘培师首先要做面团
For Chef Coppedge, it starts with the dough.
每次做的面团约一百磅左右
Bakers make about a hundred pounds at a time,
再手工或用机器将这些面团做成甜甜圈状
then hand or machine-roll dough into a bagel shape.
关键就在这里
Here’s the key.
根据厨师的说法 要烤出好的甜甜圈
GOOD bagel bakeries, according to chef, let
需要把这些装有甜甜圈的托盘
those trays of bagels sit in a cooler for
在冷却器里放几天 这个过程叫醒发
a couple days, a process called proofing.
这个过程会使酵母缓慢发酵
This allows the yeast time to slowly
并产生共五十来种
ferment, and release lots of different
不同种类的增味剂
flavor compounds, up to fifty different ones.
穆雷的甜甜圈在离开冷却器
At Murrays, the bagels come out of the cooler
进入烤箱前还有重要的一步
and make one more crucial stop before the oven:
那就是下锅过水
the kettle.
将甜甜圈在锅里煮上
Boiling the bagels for anywhere from 30 seconds to
30秒到3分钟使面团淀粉先胶化:
three minutes pre-gelatinizes the starch in the dough:
这主要是将水分锁在淀粉中
this locks liquid water into the solid starch, setting up
这样的甜甜圈在出炉后不仅有
the perfect bagelly texture with that shiny, slightly
绝佳的口感还有金黄酥脆的外皮
crunchy exterior when they come out of the oven.
这就像在烧烤前快速将牛排先煎一遍一样
It’s like flash-frying a steak before putting it on the grill.
将味道锁在食物里面 吃起来就非常美味
You seal in the flavors, and keep the insides chewy delicious.
所以当人们认为水才是甜甜圈关键时
So when people say it’s the water that makes the begal,
他们可能指的是水本身的问题
they might be thinking it’s what’s in the water itself.
但行家知道是要用水给甜甜圈快速洗个澡
but those in the know could actually be referring to this quick bath.
因为即使不用纽约的水
Because if you don’t have access to New York
你也可以有差不多的水质
water, you can pretty closely replicate it.
如果水太软 你可以
If your water is too soft, you can add a
给面团加少量的硫酸钙
Small amount of calcium sulfate to the
加大面筋的强度
dough to toughen up the gluten a bit.
如果水太硬 你可以将水过滤
If your water is too hard, you can filter it down.
但如果你跳过过水的步骤
But if you’re skipping the boil, your
那味道就不同了
bagels just won’t be the same.
在做甜甜圈时 揉面 醒发 过水和烘烤
When it comes to rolling, proofing, boiling and
这都是需要真功夫的
baking, you can’t fake it… when you make it.
感谢大厨科皮奇给我们的专业讲解
Big thanks to Chef Coppedge for his dough
以及穆雷甜甜圈给我们提供的至上美味
expertise, and to Murray’s Bagels for filling us with tasty goodness.
如果你想观看更多我们的视频
If you want more food chemistry videos,
记得订阅我们的节目并为我们点赞
give us a “like” and don’t forget to subscribe.
把你对甜甜圈的不满发到评论中
Leave your bagel hatred in the comments.
我在蒙特利尔为你掌厨
YEAH, I’M LOOKING AT YOU MONTREAL!
我不会忘记
DON’T THINK I FORGOT
你们那软趴趴的甜甜圈
ABOUT YOUR WEAK BAGELS.
感谢收看 下期节目见
Thanks for watching, we’ll see you next week chemheads.

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视频概述

甜甜圈到处都有,但为什么人们觉得纽约的甜甜圈最棒呢?这其中的秘密是什么呢?

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收集自网络

翻译译者

牵贝贝到处逛

审核员

A

视频来源

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrjLz207SzY

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