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为什么飞机餐吃起来不太一样?

Why Food Tastes Different On Planes

Ever look at the beverage cart on a plane
看过飞机上的饮料车吗?
and see it piled high with tomato juice?
放着成堆的番茄汁
It’s not a common juice, like orange or apple.
它和橙汁苹果汁不一样 不是常见的果汁
So why are so many people drinking it in flight?
为什么那么多人在飞机上喝番茄汁呢?
Put simply,
简单来说
Your taste changes while you’re in the air.
当你在空中时 味觉也发生了变化
And there’s a biological reason for that.
这是有生物学原因的
If you grab a bite before your flight,
如果你在坐飞机前喝东西
you probably have an idea
你应该是可以尝出
of what it will taste like.
它的味道是怎样的
But once you’re in the air,
但是在飞机上时
your sense of taste isn’t the same
你的味觉和在地面时
as it is on the ground.
已经不一样了
A lot of factors on the plane are all coming together
在空中 你的嗅觉
to suppress your sense of smell,
会因为各种原因受到抑制
which makes up a large portion of our sense of taste.
而嗅觉对于味觉至关重要
Think back to the last time you had a cold.
想想你上次感冒的时候
Remember how you couldn’t taste anything
因为鼻塞
because your nose was clogged up?
你是不是完全失去了味觉?
When you have a weakened sense of smell,
当你的嗅觉不灵敏时
your perception of taste is reduced.
味觉的敏感度也会随之降低
So your in-flight nose is similar
所以在空中时 你的鼻子
to your nose when you have a cold,
就和感冒的时候一样
but hopefully with less phlegm.
不过 好的是没有太多的鼻涕
Let’s start with the cabin,
从机舱说起
which is extremely dry.
机舱里非常干燥
Drier-than-some-deserts dry.
甚至比在沙漠里还要干燥
The dry cabin dries out your nasal passages,
干燥的机舱让你的鼻道也变得干燥起来
which means your taste buds become less perceptive.
这意味着你味蕾的敏感度变低了
But that’s not the only part of the cabin
抑制你味觉的
suppressing your sense of taste.
不仅仅是机舱的干燥环境
The low cabin pressure actually decreases
实际上 机舱里面的低气压
the levels of oxygen in your blood,
也会减少你血液中的含氧量
which means your olfactory receptors,
这意味着你的嗅觉感受器 就是
the part of your nervous system that responds to smells,
在神经系统中对气味作出反应的器官
become less sensitive,
变得更加不敏感
which actually weakens your sense of smell.
从而进一步削弱了你的嗅觉
But it’s not just the environment inside the cabin
不过 不仅仅是机舱内部环境
that’s affecting your senses.
会影响你的感受
The noise coming from the engine isn’t helping either.
飞机引擎发出的噪音同样也会产生影响
A 2010 study tested people’s sense of taste
2010年 一项研究分别测试了
both inside and outside a simulated plane cabin.
一个模拟机舱内部和外部人员的味觉
The researchers found sensitivity to sweet and salty food
研究发现 在机舱内部时
was reduced by 30% while in the cabin.
人们对甜 咸食物的敏感度降低了30%
And that weakened sense of taste
而这种被抑制了的味觉
can cause a lot of problems for airline caterers,
给飞机上的餐食服务带来了很多挑战
who have to modify every recipe
他们不得不调整菜谱
to account for it.
来解决这些问题
To top it off, not every flavor is affected equally.
另外 不是所有的味道都会被抑制
Some ingredients, like curry and lemongrass,
有的调料 例如咖喱和香茅草的味道
actually become more intense in the sky,
在空中会变得更加浓烈
while cinnamon, ginger, and garlic
而肉桂 姜和大蒜
tend to maintain their taste.
则会保持它们的味道
Some airlines will use naturally intense flavors,
有的飞机餐会采用本就浓郁的调料
like certain fruit and vegetable oils and concentrates,
比如特定的水果 植物油和浓缩果汁
which helps to lessen the amount of extra salt
用来抵消菜谱可能需要的
a recipe might need.
额外盐分的数量
So, what does tomato juice have to do with all of this?
所以 番茄汁跟这些有什么关系?
Well, tomato juice tends to have a savory flavor
其实 番茄汁具有一种香醇的风味
referred to as umami.
被称作 鲜味
It’s one of the five categories of taste,
它与甜 酸 咸 苦并列
along with sweet, sour, salt, and bitter.
属于五大味觉之一
A 2015 study found that, with umami,
2015年的一项研究发现
the taste phenomenon is actually reversed.
鲜味颠覆了味觉这一概念
Umami is actually enhanced in the air.
实际上 在空中时 鲜味变得更浓烈了
So the next time you’re on a flight,
所以 下次坐飞机的时候
give the tomato juice a try.
试一试番茄汁吧
And don’t get too upset if your meal
如果你的饭没想象的好吃
doesn’t taste as good as you hoped.
也不要沮丧
The chefs are just trying to accommodate
厨师们要解决的是
for something you didn’t know was happening
那些在你鼻子底下发生的事
right underneath your nose.
而这些连你自己都没发觉

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视频概述

为什么飞机餐好像不太好吃?在空中时我们的嗅觉和味觉会发生什么变化呢?这些又是由什么导致的呢?跟着视频来揭秘吧!

听录译者

收集自网络

翻译译者

谢祎祎

审核员

审核员SF

视频来源

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POFpVj-n66U

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