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为什么Ernest Wright剪刀卖这么贵

Why Ernest Wright Scissors Are So Expensive | So Expensive

These handmade scissors
这些手工剪刀
have been produced in Sheffield, England,for over 100 years.
已经在英国谢菲尔德生产了上百年
But compared to a $2 mass-produced pair,
但与两美元一把的批量生产的剪刀相比
the kitchen scissors will cost you over $100,
购买这儿的厨用剪刀要花一百多美元
and a pair of professional tailor’s shears cost $315.
买一把专用裁缝剪则要花315美元
So just what is it that makes them so expensive?
那么 它们如此昂贵的原因是什么呢?
如此昂贵
Cliff Denton is one of just two master putter-togethers left.
Cliff Denton是仅存的两位组装大师之一
Both in their 70s
他们都七十多岁了
the masters are the only ones skilled enough
只有大师们有能力
to undertake the final delicate part of the process:
完成制作流程最后的精细部分
the assembly of these scissors, or putting together.
那就是剪刀的装配或是组装
Cliff Denton: When I were young, every street corner
在我年轻时 每个街角
had a little shop with masters in and working.
都有大师工作的小店
They’ve gone.
它们都已经不在了
You know, at one stage, we were doing,
要知道 有段时期 我们制造
like 85, 90 different types of scissor.
大约85或90种不同类型的剪刀
Narrator: In the 1970s, there were 150
在20世纪70年代
small-scale scissor workshops in Sheffield.
在谢尔菲德有150个小型剪刀车间
Now there are just two.
现在却只有两个
And keeping this craft alive relies on
为了让这门手艺继续传承
training the next generation of apprentices.
就必须去训练培养下一代学徒
Denton: You know, it’s just got that light, magic touch.
制作剪刀时要有那种轻盈 不可思议的手感
How to hold them, how to stroke them,
怎么握住它们 怎样敲打它们
how to edge them.
如何开刃
And this, to instill on young lads, is hard.
而要把这些慢慢传授给年轻人 是很困难的
Because it’s not something you can write down
因为这些你无法写下来
and let them read.
让他们看
They’ve got to actually do it.
他们必须动手去操作
Narrator: Unlike cheaper mass-manufactured scissors,
与批量生产的廉价剪刀不同
almost all of the work is done by hand.
这里制作剪刀的全部工序都是手工的
The starting outline of the scissor
剪刀的起始轮廓
is hot drop forged of site
是高温锻造而成的
This is called a blank,
这被称为毛坯
and while it may already have the shape
虽然它可能已经具有
of a very rough pair of scissors,
粗糙的剪刀的轮廓
the process has only just begun.
但这个过程才刚刚开始
The blanks first need to be drilled,
首先要在毛坯钻孔
counterbored, and tapped.
沉孔和攻丝
This puts in a hole in the center of each half
在每一个半成品中心钻个孔
and adds a thread to that hole.
并给这个孔加上螺纹
Once that work is done,
一旦工作完成
the blades have to be ground down.
就得开始磨刀片
The blank has no blade on it whatsoever,
毛坯没有任何刃口
so initial grinding has to be done
所以必须先在
on a 50-year-old Viotto machine
有50年历史的Viotto机器上
before further refinements are done by hand.
进行初步研磨 再手动精加工
Jonathan: So, if you were to look at a
如果你去看
cheap pair of scissors, you’d quickly notice
一副廉价的剪刀 你会很快注意到
that it’s actually a stamped-out piece of metal
它实际上是一块
that have just been bolted together
用螺栓固定在一起冲压好的金属
and a blade’s edge put on them.
并把开刃的刀片组装在上面
So, when we grind the inside of the blade,
当我们研磨刀片的内侧时
we’ll say there are three angles to it.
要从三个角度去研磨它
You’ve got to have a curve
你得研磨出
from the pinch of the scissor to the point,
从剪刀的绞合点到尖端的弧线
which means that when the blades are together,
这意味当刀片贴合在一起时
you should be able to see
你应该能够看到
a gap through the middle.
在它们中间有条缝隙
We’ll also want to grind in a twist,
我们还需要绞合处研磨
and then finally, we want to
最后 我们也得
hollow the blade as well.
把刀身磨薄一点
And what that’ll give us is a scissor
这将研磨出一把
that only have a touch at the cutting edge.
只在刀刃处贴合的剪刀
Once the blade is on
刀片弄好后
the rough edges need to be sanded off
就需要打磨剪刀的粗糙边缘
from the bow, the shanks, and the nail holes.
从弯柄 直柄到钉孔处
After everything’s sanded down,
在所有地方打磨完之后
the scissors are sent off to be hardened,
剪刀要被加工硬化
turning the soft, workable metal
让较为柔软 初成型的金属
into a hard final product.
最终变成坚硬的成品
Then they’re put into the rumbler for a few hours
然后把它们放进滚筒中几个小时
to be acid-treated before being dried.
在干燥前进行酸处理
Rumbling takes off any grind marks
在滚动中 剪刀表面
on the surface of the metal
所有的磨痕都被去掉
and prepares them for polishing.
接着准备将他们抛光
Jonathan: We do different types of scissors.
我们做不同种类的剪刀
If it was our embroidery stalk,
如果是制作绣花剪刀
then we could work on
我们两周到一个月内可以
maybe 500 embroidery stalks
制作大概500个
over two weeks to a month.
绣花剪刀
However, if we were doing same-size batch,
但是 如果我们做一批
500 13-inch scissors,
500把13英寸的剪刀
then we probably wouldn’t even see that within a year.
那可能一年内都看不到成品
Narrator: The blades are polished by hand
刀刃需要手工打磨至
to a mirror finish
镜面般的成品
Then comes the hardest part:
接下来是最难的部分:
Putting together
组装拼凑
Traditionally, you would undertake
一般来说 在你坐在
a five-year apprenticeship
组装者工作台之前
before you could even sit at the putter’s table.
你要经历五年的学徒期
Jonathan: I’ve never had a background like this before.
我以前从未有过这样的经历
I went straight into an office
刚从大学毕业后
right out of university,
我直接进了办公室工作
and I was walking down this street,
当我走在这条街上
and I saw a chalkboard that said,
看到黑板上写着
“Scissor makers wanted.”
“招聘剪刀工匠”
And I thought I’ve always wanted
我一直认为自己想要
to work with my hands
靠手艺来吃饭
but I’ve had no training in working with my hands.
但我从没有学过什么手艺活儿
My training began eight months ago,
我从八个月前开始练习
and it doesn’t look like it’s gonna stop
看起来在至少未来几年内
for at least another few years.
我都不能停止练习
Narrator: And despite the intricacy,
组装拼凑似乎相当简单
the most important tool isn’t anything
最重要的工具不是别的
small and delicate,
只是一把小巧精致的
but a hammer.
锤子
Denton: And I’m only gonna need to tap.
我只需要轻轻地敲
Narrator: The hammer is crucial
要精确对齐刀片
to aligning the blades correctly.
锤子尤为关键
Denton: So….[tapping]
这样……[敲击声]
Oh, that’s better.
哦 这样更好
Narrator: The two scissor parts are screwed into place,
这两个半边剪刀被拧到恰到好处
and then a perfect curve is hammered onto each blade.
每一个刀刃被敲出完美的曲线
This part of the process
制作流程中
is the hardest to get right
这部分是最难做好的
and also the hardest skill to pass on.
同时也是最难传授的技能
Jonathan: If he hits that with the wrong tension
如果他没掌握好力度
or the wrong angle or in the wrong spot,
敲错角度或敲错位置
he will ruin those scissors.
他就会毁掉这些剪刀
So, I’ve put a scissor blade down,
有次我放好剪刀刀片
and I’ve taken a swing at it,
然后挥锤敲击
and I’ve just snapped the blade in half.
却把刀片劈成了两半
Narrator: Once the two halves are married together,
当两块半边剪刀贴合在一起后
a final blade will be put on the scissor.
剪刀只要最后再打磨一次
Denton: Well, I started in 1959.
我是从1959年开始做剪刀的
Roughly the same. Steady, hammers.
大致情况和现在一样 有固定支架 锤子
Other than we had lights hanging over
另外我们挂了几盏灯
to get more light.
让这儿更亮堂
You’ll learn. You’ll never forget.
我坚持这门手艺且永远不会忘
It’s up here in a diary.
它像日志一样记在脑海里
Somebody’ll say a scissor,
如果有人说起一把剪刀
and it just comes up on a projection in me head.
我的脑海里会立刻出现它的制作方法
Manicure, dissecting, thread clip.
指甲剪 解剖刀 纱剪
All different scissors.
各种不同的剪刀
Sheffield has been home to England’s blade-making industry
早在14世纪 谢菲尔德就成为了
since as far back as the 14th century.
英国制刀工业的发源地
It’s where stainless steel was originally invented,
不锈钢就是在这个城市发明的
and it’s a city that’s famed for its cutlery production.
并且这个城市也因刀具出名
Cliff started making scissors when he was just 15.
Cliff刚15岁时就开始做剪刀
Denton: When I pick a pair of scissors up,
当我拿起一把剪刀
it tells me a story.
就知道它是什么状况
I can open and shut it. It’s tight, it’s slack.
开一下合一下 我就知道它紧了还是松了
You can virtually just shove it with the weight of your finger,
实际上我可以只用手指的力量
and it does the job.
调整好它
That’s what you’re after.
这就是我现在的水平
Week after week, year after year if need be.
日复一日 年复一年地练习才有今天
That’s it.
大功告成

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译制信息
视频概述

主要讲述了制作Ernest Wright剪刀的过程以及它的价值和制作工艺。

听录译者

收集自网络

翻译译者

19779340

审核员

审核员YY

视频来源

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bK4AWtTV3h4

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