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薯片的口味是怎么调配出来的? – 译学馆
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薯片的口味是怎么调配出来的?

What a Research Chef Does at Frito-Lay — How To Make It

如果你想成为一个食谱发明者
what does it take to be a recipe developer
为大众消费者创造新口味薯片的话 需要什么条件?
creating new chip flavors for mass market?
我们现在在菲多利公司总部
We’re here at Frito-Lay headquarters
来拜访乐事品牌所有口味薯片的餐饮团队
to meet the culinary team behind all of the Lay’s potato chip flavors.
你也许会记得“为我们创造新口味”的活动
You may remember the Do Us a Flavor campaign
在那里你可以提出你想让乐事为你创造的薯片口味
where you could submit chip flavors that you want Lay’s to create for you.
我提交了一些 他们并没有批准
I submitted a few, they did not get approved.
但是我们今天来到了他们的口味实验室
But we are here to go into their flavor lab
让我们看看薯片的生产过程是怎样的
to see how this process works.
以及当你提交了口味需求后发生了什么
What happens after you submit that flavor request.
研究型厨师是个新领域
– Research chefs is a new field
这个公司现在比之前雇佣了更多的研究型厨师
that companies are now using a lot more than they ever did before.
这个烹饪的领域 烹饪学
This culinology field – Culinology.
是由烹饪 烹饪美学和食物科学结合而成的
– Is blending of, culinology, blending of culinary arts and food science.
我以前从来都不知道它的存在
– I never knew that existed.
这就是我们要做的事 对 这就是我们要在这里做的事
– Which is what we do, yeah that’s what we do here.
没错
– Yeah.
我们从真实的食物开始制作
We’re cooking from real food.
主要这样他们就能够切实明确地知道
Mainly so that they can get a real, laser target idea
最终产品应该是什么味道
of what the final product should taste like.
你知道的 你和我都做过一些小研究和小成果
– You and I have both, you know, done a little bit of research and development
为了向餐馆里提出新的菜单建议
to come up with new menu items in the restaurant.
我们需要生产一种薯片
We need to produce a chip
尝起来像鸡肉和华夫饼
that tastes like chicken and waffles.
你从哪里开始的呢?
Where does that begin for you?
啊首先是顾客告诉我们的
– Well it begins with consumers telling us
他们想要一种确定的口味
that they want a certain flavor.
鸡肉需要油炸和腌制
Chicken for the friedchicken has to be brined.
好的 那么需要腌制多久呢
– [Katie] Right, how long does this brine?
一整夜
– [Jody] Overnight.
所以要晾干 然后拍打 接着再晾干
– So it’s dry, batter, dry again.
对 但是这里最后一次撒香料需要一点点的拍打
– Yeah but the last dredge needs a little batter in there.
那我做一下示范
So I’m just gonna.

– Ah.
我以前没见过这个呢
I have not seen this before.
给它一个外观上的纹理
– Gives an exterior texture.
酥脆的薄片
– [Katie] Flaky crispy.
与餐厅相比 这里就完全不一样了
– It’s completelydifferent from that point than being in a restaurant.
餐厅里时间紧迫 只管制作就行
You’re under time pressure, you gotta just cook.
这里我们慢慢来
Here we gotta slow it down.
我们开始对她它充满想象
We’ve gotta overthink it.
我们不是只有一个厨师说了算
We don’t just have one chef what they think
他认为这个就是最好的鸡肉和华夫饼
is the best chicken and waffles.
我们有三个(厨师)
We have three.
每个人都会决定哪种能最好地匹配这个概念和类型
Everyone will decide which on best fits this concept and the brand.
然后我们会重构它
Then we’ll recreate it
并且请很多专家来到这里
and we’ll get a set of experts in the room
他们都有很丰富的品尝经验
who all have highly sophisticated palates.
厨师们 和我们香料小组
The chefs and our seasoning team,
还有调香师
and flavorists.
竟然有调味料小组和调香师?
– There’s a seasoning team and flavorists?
调香师将会从一个真正分析的立场来品尝它
– Flavorist will taste it from a really analytical standpoint.
你在尝哪种独特的口味?
What are the individual flavors you’re tasting?
你品尝他们的时间顺序是怎么样的?
What time order are you tasting them in?
味道有多浓烈?
What level of intensity do you taste it at?
当你吃完它之后它在你的嘴里会怎么样?
What does it do after you taste it in your mouth?
它会聚集到一起?会分开吗?
Does it rise. does it fall
你知道在最后一次吞咽时它就没了
you know is it gone with the last swallow
又或者它会在将近未尽时徘徊在嘴里
or does it linger through the finish.
他们会用所有的这些信息
They will use all that information
和烹饪的黄金标准去创造调料
and the culinary gold standard to create the seasoning
他们确实会大胆地用在薯片上
that goes on the chip that will actually venture on.
最终做出来
– Make it to the end.
在餐厅里你会想要这完美的纹理
– In the restaurant you’d be wanting that to have like the perfect texture.
纹理和美观真的不会有太大作用
Texture and appearance really don’t come too much into it.
都是味道的功劳
It’s really all about the flavor.
一点也不含糊 没问题
There’s no ambiguity, there’s no question,
这就是我们想让你生产的口味
this is the flavor we want you to reproduce.
你知道真正的惊喜是什么吗?
You know what’s really surprising?
我们来举个例子
Okay let’s take a simple thing.
番茄酱
Ketchup.
如果我们对美国顾客做个调查
If we poll consumers in the United States,
番茄酱是排名第一的佐料
where ketchup is the number one condiment,
但他们却不想吃番茄味的薯片
they do not want it on a potato chip.
加拿大人吃薯片时却非常喜欢它
Canada loves it on a potato chip.
真的吗?
– Really?
是的 当然啦
– Yeah, absolutely.
太有趣了
– That’s so interesting.
挺疯狂的
– It’s insane.
哪些是比较特殊的口味
– What are some of the most out there flavors.
兄弟
– Oh man.
你被要求去开发的那种?
– You’ve been asked to develop?
啊 我们做火鸭鸡(感恩节美食)
– Oh we did turducken.

– Ooh.
你知道 对于不知道这些的人来说
– You know and for those that don’t know about that,
这就是放在火鸡中的鸭子中的那只鸡
it’s a chicken inside of a duck, inside of a turkey.
鸡杂饭
Dirty rice.
火鸡 这是个疯狂的东西
– A turkey, that is a monstrosity.
英国人喜欢卡津松鼠味
– In the UK one of the winners was Cajun squirrel.
他们把它做成薯片?
– And that made it onto a chip?
是的 在英国
– In the UK.
很高兴我们今天不是做那种味道
– I’m glad we’re not playing around with that one today.
现在我们要去制定黄金标准了
– Now we’re gonna make the gold standard
放进希腊城陀螺仪
for the Greektown Gyro.
牛眼肉
Beef rib-eye.
羊肩肉
Lamb shoulder.
荷兰芹
Parsley.
香菜 洋葱
Cilantro. Onion
大蒜
garlic.
和一整串中东香料
And a whole bunch of Middle Eastern spices
像扎尔塔尔 姜黄根 咖喱粉 香菜
as za’atar, turmeric, curry powder, coriander.
也有一些化学合成的东西
It’s also got something that is the sciency part of this
比如转谷氨酰胺酶
which is transglutaminase.
没听说过
– Never heard of that.
肉胶
– Meat glue.
肉 我听说过 我用过它
– Meat, I have heard of that, I’ve used that.
这是一种把蛋白质和蛋白质结合起来的酶
– Okay, it’s an enzyme that binds protein to protein
我们放进去以后
and then it turns out just like a gyro
它就像陀螺一样转
off the spit when we’re done.
哦…我的天啊 就是这样
– [Katie] Oh my gosh there it is.
这是一种改良的酸奶黄瓜
– This is a modified tzatziki.
更多的是在中东而不是希腊
More in the Middle Eastern rather than the Greek arena.
好的
– [Katie] Okay.
当我们做这个研究让它更趋于完美
– When we were doing this research to get this right,
在最后的烹饪中失去了一些羊肉味
we were losing some of the lamb flavor in the final dish.
所以我们决定做一些浓缩调味料
So we decided to make a little concentrated,
在这里闻一闻
here give that a whiff.
注意羊肉味
Concentrate lamb jous.

– Wow.
我以前从来没有见过这个
I have never seen this before.
是的 你可能没见过
– No and you probably.
是的 我没有
– No I won’t.
那你再也不会看到它了
– Won’t ever see it again.
我们在这里用这种方式烹饪
– We cook here in a way
但我们绝不会在餐馆这么做 因为我们支付不起
that we would never cook in a restaurant’causewe couldn’t afford it.
那大约要2英镑的肉
That was about two pounds of meat
和一点儿骨头碎片烘烤至他们
and little bone scraps roasted until they were like
完全都变为焦糖色 肉汁也被焦糖化
totally all caramelly brown, meat juices that were caramelized
在盘子的底部
on the bottom of the pan.
不久前我们有一种口味 西海岸松露薯条
We had a flavor not too long ago, West Coast truffle fries.

– Oh wow.
黄金标准
– Gold standard.
大概将在餐馆卖150美元一盘
Would’ve sold in a restaurant about $150 a plate.
好的
– Right.
你知道对薯片来说
– You know for fries. Yeah,
在餐馆里是不会这么做的
not gonna do that in a restaurant.
是的
– No.
但是它们真的是很棒的薯片
– But they were really good fries.
是的是的
– [Katie] Right, right.
鸡肉和华夫饼干
– [Jody] Chicken and waffles.
我的天
– Oh my gosh.
我立刻问到了糖浆的味道 感觉很可口
I immediately smell syrup and then savory.
是的 你知道把它切开
– Yeah you know cut it open.
我的天
– [Katie] Oh my gosh.
漂亮的鸡肉
– [Jody] Beautiful chicken.
看看呐
– Look at that.
香甜 美味 松脆 咸鲜
Sweet, savory, crunchy, salty.
黄油 枫糖浆 鸡肉
Butter maple syrup chicken.
现在尝一下薯片
– Now taste the chip.
我喜欢 我不能
– I’m like, I can’t.
我就想一整天和你在这儿
I just spent the whole day in here with you.
[笑]
(laughing)
我仍然 这简直让我大吃一惊
And I still, it’s like blowing my mind.
我要确认一下
I’m gonna confirm that.
你先前提到的 品尝的顺序
You were mentioning before,the order of tasting things.
当你吃鸡肉和华夫饼时 华夫饼是基础
When you’re eating chicken and waffles, the waffle is your base.
当你吃薯片的时候
When you’re eating the chip,
你先尝到了华夫饼的风味 接着是糖浆
you get the waffle flavor first and then the syrup
慢慢渗进来然后就有点儿咸了
creeps in and then it’s a little savory.
我认为这是如此特别和有意为之
That’s so specific and intentional I’d imagine.
当你吃薯片的时候
– It is very intentional that the timing
你嘴里各种味道的时间点是非常有意的
of the flavors in your mouth when you eat the chip,
跟你吃到食材的原始味道是一样的体验
is the same as what you experienced in the original real food.
因为你用这样的方式去品尝它
Because that’s how you’re supposed to taste it.
是的 你吃它会有相同的体验
– Right, you’re having the same experience eating it.
[欢快的音乐]
(upbeat music)
好极了
– It’s so good.
难以置信
– Hard to think.

– Wow
在这里工作真的
– Working here has really.

– Wow.
让我的厨艺更加精进
– Kind of fine tuned some of my cooking.
是的 你真的可以专注于你要追求的东西
– Right you can really hone in on what you’re going after.
你知道 我时刻记录着这一切
– You know and I’m documenting everything.
所以我觉得你知道 不断的优化
So I’m like you know fine tuning.
现在是薯片版本
– All right now for the chip version.
体现所有的风味
– Telling you it’s all about.
它是准确的
– It’s exact!
这些菜肴本身真的很好
Like these are dishes on their own are really really good.
是的
– Yeah.
它变成了薯片
– It certainly translates to the chip.
我可以一直吃它们 停不下来
In fact I’m just gonna keep eating them.
我们将科学注入到烹饪艺术中
– We’re injecting or surrounding this art of culinary with science.
当然 当我看到这些架子上的薯片
– And certainly when I see these chips on the shelves,
它们背后的故事令人难以置信
what it takes to get them there is mind boggling.
更多视频 请点击这里
For more videos, chip here.
[嘎吱嘎吱脆的薯片]
(crunching on chips)

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薯片的口味是怎么调配出来的

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