ADM-201 dump PMP dumps pdf SSCP exam materials CBAP exam sample questions

维多利亚的秘密兴衰史 – 译学馆
未登录,请登录后再发表信息
最新评论 (0)
播放视频

维多利亚的秘密兴衰史

The Rise And Fall Of Victoria’s Secret

维多利亚的秘密时尚大秀每年都吸引数百万人观看
Every year, the Victoria’s Secret fashion show broadcasts to millions of viewers.
一些称之为维密天使的顶尖模特 身着性感内衣
A flurry of top models called angles strut down the runway in sexy lingerie
光鲜亮丽地在当红歌手们的演唱中走T台
next to famous pop stars belting their best songs
这是一场视觉盛宴 由美国顶级内衣零售商举办
It’s a visual celebration of the top lingerie retailer in the United States,
他们持续占据美国内衣市场约60%份额
which consistently captures around 60 percent of the market.
我所有的内衣裤都在维密购买
I get all my bras and underwear from Victoria’s Secret.
当我进店时 我感觉自己很特别
When I go into a store, I feel so special,
在那里购物仿如度假
like it’s a holiday for me when I go shopping.
[西班牙语]
但近来 维密看起来 正失去部分魔力
But lately, Victoria’s Secret seems to be losing some of its magic.
看看时尚大秀的收视率
Just look at the fashion show’s ratings,
2011年起稳步下滑 2018年再创新低 只有330万
which have steadily fallen since 2011 to historic low of 3.3 million in 2018. See,
瞧 维密所贩卖的性感 与大多数女性的距离越来越远
there’s a widening chasm between what Victoria’s Secret sells as sexy and what most women look like.
其产品离大多数女性所想要的内衣裤也越来越远
And between Victoria’s Secret products and what most women want in bras and underwear.
维密的单店全年销售额 已经连续三年下降
Victoria’s Secret’s annual same-store sales have fallen three years in a row,
其母公司L Brands的股票市值在2018年缩水55%
and the stock value of its parent company, L Brands, fell by 55 percent in 2018.
所以 到底是什么造就了维密先前的成功?
So what was the secret to Victoria’s prior success?
他们能东山再起吗?
And will they find it again?
让我们从根本上开始分析维多利亚的秘密
Let’s start with the basics.
它是L Brands拥有的众多品牌之一
Victoria’s Secret is one of several brands owned by the parent company L Brands.
作为L Brands旗下最大的零售品牌
Victoria’s Secret is the largest retailer under L Brands,
维密大约占据了公司总销售额的60%
making up around 60 percent of the company’s total sales.
这其中又有35%来自女性内衣销售
And 35 percent of that is justbras.
L字母代表The Limited 是该公司第一个品牌名
This L stands for The Limited, the name of the company’s first brand.
由商人莱斯利·维克斯纳在1963年创立 最初The Limited 作为一间服装店
Businessman Leslie Wexner founded The Limited in 1963 as a clothing store that
它将欧洲和美国沿海城市的时尚 带给美国中西部女性
brought the fashionability of Europe and America’s coastal cities to the women of the Midwest.
1979年 The Limited 成功上市 在全美开出了318间门店
By 1979, The Limited had gone public and opened 318 stores across the nation.
80年代前期 维克斯纳视察其在旧金山的门店
In the early 1980s, Wexner visited oneof his stores in San Francisco.
在那里 一间店偶然引起了他的好奇: 一间叫维多利亚的秘密的内衣店
While there, he stumbled upon a curious shop: a lingerie retailer called Victoria’s Secret.
要知道 现在销售女士内衣的方式和以前大相径庭
See, retail of ladies’ undergarments today is very different than how it used to be.
对于内衣 美国女性典型的看法是将其分作两大类
American women typically viewed their undergarments on a binary:
日常生活功能型和特殊场合性感型
strictly functional for day-to-day or fancy and sexy for special occasions.
因为对内衣的需求相对较低
Because of this relatively low demand,
女士内衣裤的店面通常被贬至百货商店二楼的角落里
lingerie was relegated to dusty corners on the second floors of department stores.
这正是维密创始人罗伊·雷蒙德想要改变的
That’s what Victoria’s Secret’s founder,Roy Raymond, wanted to change.
雷蒙德于1977年在帕洛阿尔托开了第一家维密店
Raymond opened the first Victoria’s Secret in Palo Alto in 1977.
到1982年维克斯纳发现他家店时
By the time Wexner discovered one in 1982,
雷蒙德已经在旧金山又新开了四家门店
Raymond had opened four more stores in San Francisco.
这五家店那一年一起创下600万的销售额
The five stores combined made six million in sales that year.
但与此同时这些店也处于挣扎之中 雷蒙德认为
But still, the stores were struggling. Raymond’s business rested on his idea
像他那样的男人 会给女人买内衣
that men like him bought lingerie for the women in their lives.
所以他一直要求店铺迎合男士口味:深色调 皮沙发 性感服饰
So he curated his stores for men’s tastes: dark colors, leather sofas, racy garments.
但男性购买的其实并不多
But the men weren’t buying much, and
反而是妻子们觉得他们买的内衣既不舒服也不吸引人
their wives found the lingerie they did buy uncomfortable and unappealing.
所以到了1982年 维密走到了破产的边缘
So by 1982, Victoria’s Secret was onthe verge of bankruptcy.
维克斯纳觉得内衣行业可以有所作为
Wexner saw an opportunityto do for lingerie
正如The Limited在服装行业所做的那样
what The Limited had done for clothing.
所以他以100万美金的价格收购了维密
So he bought Victoria’s Secret forabout $1 million.
借此他开始着手改变美国女性购买内衣的习惯
Wexner set to work to transform the undergarment habits of Americanwomen.
他打造出标准化的支撑型胸衣 同时赋予它们鲜艳的色彩和各具特色的印花
He constructed standard supportive bras but spiced them up with vivid colors and distinctive prints.
他重新设计店铺 以更柔和更女性化的色彩
He redesigned the stores to bereminiscent of a 19th-century
营造出19世纪英式闺房风格的怀旧氛围
English boudoir using softer, more feminine colors.
他想要创造出“全世界最性感的女性” 都会来买内衣的店铺
He wanted to create a store where’the sexiest women in the world’ would buy lingerie,
然后再带动其他女性一起为这项梦幻事业添砖加瓦
and then invite regular women to partake in this glamorous fantasy
[因为价格颇不便宜] 他成功了
(for a steep price tag). It worked.
而成功的部分原因来自于女性自己工作赚钱
and it worked partly because women worked
穿权力套装很重要 但她们会穿可爱内衣打底
The power suit was important then and they wore a little teddies
因为那感觉就像在职业外套的内里有一个性感的灵魂
because that was like a sexy layer underneath the jacket.
即使她身着权力套装 是一名职场精英
Even though she was wearing a power suit and she was in the workforce,
她仍然想要穿上些什么让自己显得性感又不失身份
she still wanted to wear something that was sexy and appropriate for her figure.
瞧 维密在20世纪80年代进入市场
See, Victoria’s Secret entered the market in the 1980s,
彼时正是自我意识觉醒的妇女崛起并开始进入职场的时候
right when women raised with many revolutionary ideas were entering the workforce.
性别革命鼓励她们不惧展现自己的性感
The sexual revolution encouraged them to embrace theirown sexiness.
而职场环境的变化 让数百万女性可自行支配收入
The workplace revolution meant that millions more of them had disposable income.
那些收入她们没有花在操办婚礼或是养小孩上
And they didn’t spend that disposable income on weddings or babies because
因为越来越多的女性都选择推迟这些人生事务
they increasingly delayedthose choices.
所以她们能够在文胸上花更多的钱
So they spent it on bras.
这至少能推动维秘取得初步成功
At least, enough to propel Victoria’s Secret to early success.
1986年 这个零售品牌在全美拥有100家门店
By 1986, the retailer had 100 storesacross the country and
并逐步蚕食原本属于百货商店的市场份额
was stealing marketshare from department stores.
九年后 它在全国范围的门店多达670家
Nine years later, it had 670 stores nationwide
创下19亿美金的年度销售额
and produced 1.9billion dollars in sales.
所以你可以发现 与这个品牌的发展历程
So the elevation of the brand correspond
在文化层面上息息相关的
with the elevation of what was happening culturally
是女性对自身权力的运用
in terms of women exercising their own power,
女权运动的发展以及其权利的实现
their own feminist movement, and their rights.
在整个历程中 维密恰好抓住了这一时机
And Victoria’s Secret was able to capitalize on that.
但即便成功如斯 女性的购物习惯并未明显改变
But even with all this success, women’s shopping habits hadn’t significantly changed.
女性并未接受
Women hadn’t yet bought the idea that
花更多的钱买性感的胸衣 只为日常穿戴
they should spend more on a fancier bra for daily use.
因此 90年代中后期 维密试图设计出一款文胸
So for the rest of the 90s, Victoria’sSecret searched for a bra
能同时兼顾功能性和时髦度
that could straddle the line between function and beauty.
然而三次重要的尝试都失败了
Three major attempts flopped, either for
不是为了时髦度就是为了让人困惑的广告而牺牲功能结构
sacrificing structure for beauty or for just baffling advertising.
直到1999年 Body by Victoria一经面世大受欢迎
It wasn’t until 1999 that Wexner found a hit with the Body by Victoria line.
维克斯纳遵循消费者心理
Following consumer intelligence, Wexner
为这一新款胸衣采用无缝设计 用柔软昂贵的织物填充
created this bra to be seamless and padded with soft, luxurious fabric.
在刚推出的前四周 Body by Victoria 的销量
Body by Victoria sold more than 2.5 times the bras of any other line
就超过维密其它系列2.5倍
launched by Victoria’s Secretin its first four weeks.
虽然这一胸衣系列的价格
Though the bra sold for more than double
比百货商店里胸衣的平均价高出两倍多
the price of the average department store bra,
但在面世后的六周内 就几乎被抢购一空
the line was nearly sold out six weeks after launching.
这是维密一统内衣市场的起点
This was the beginning of Victoria’s Secret’s path to dominating the intimate apparel industry.
公司迅速扩张
The company expanded rapidly.
还开拓了美妆和香水产品线
It started cosmetic and fragrance lines. It launched
2004年 它面向年轻女性消费者推出新品牌PINK
the brand PINK in 2004 to appeal to younger women
涵盖时髦胸衣 内衣 休闲服
with trendy bras, underwear, and lounge wear.
与此同时 其年度时尚大秀成为一股时尚潮流
Meanwhile the annual fashion show became a ratings powerhouse.
2001年 在网络电视上的直播
It drew 12.4 million viewers
吸引了多达124万观众收看
in 2001 when it moved to network television,
许多当今超模的事业由此起步
and it launched the careers of now-supermodels like
像海蒂·克鲁姆 吉赛尔·邦辰 阿德里亚娜·利马和 泰拉·班克斯
Heidi Klum, Gisele Bündchen, Adriana Lima, and
截止到2006年
Tyra Banks. By 2006, one out of every three
内衣市场上每三件销售就有一件来自维密
purchases in the intimate apparel industry came from a Victoria’s Secret.
那年 维克斯纳任命莎伦·特尼为新任CEO
That year, Wexner named Sharen Turney, longtime
她曾长期带领品牌的目录事业部
leader of the brand’s catalog division, as the new CEO.
2010和2011年 同店销售额
In 2010 and 2011, same-store sales grew
增长了14个百分点
at 14 percent, and in 2012, Victoria’s Secret was
2012年 维密被评为”全美最畅销内衣品牌”
crowned the”most buzzed-about apparel brand in
但它也从这一年开始走下坡路
the U.S.” But this is also where the retailer began to slip.
刚开始很缓慢 同店销售额增长在2012年下降到了7% 在接下来两年里就只有3%了
It started slowly. Same-store sales fell to 7 percent in 2012 and just 3 percent for the next two years.
这个数字在2015年又回升至百分之五
This number bounced back to 5 percent in 2015, but then CEO
CEO特尼准备大刀阔斧的再干一场时却在2016年突然辞职了
Turney rattled the company again when she abruptly resigned in 2016.
维克斯纳随即做出改变
Wexner stepped in to make changes. First, Wexler restructured the
首先他重组公司并解聘了两百名员工
company and laid off 200 employees.
聘用新的首席执行官简·辛格
He installed a new CEO, JanSinger, who previously headed up
她曾效力于塑型内衣品牌Spanx
the shapewear brand Spanx. Next, Victoria’s
接着维密精简了产品线
Secret slimmed its offerings. It shuttered both
关闭了泳衣和其它种类
its swimsuit and catalog businesses. The ending
此举很让投资者担心
of the swimsuit line especially worried investors.
尽管它已经下行好几年
Though it had trended downward for a
但仍能粗略达到5亿美金收益
few years, it still comprised roughly 500 million
却被公司砍掉了这项目
dollars of L Brands’ revenue. But the company
全面生产女式贴身内衣裤系列
sacrificed it to focus on its core lingerie line
并且扩大供应运动休闲类内衣
and expand its athleisure offerings. These
这改变来的太迟 贴身内衣和运动休闲市场
changes came late. Both the lingerie and
在早些年已经发生了巨大的转变
athleisure markets had seen major shifts in the preceding years and other,
其它更加年轻的品牌
younger brands had
已经建立了他们自己的品牌
already established themselvesas retailers whose
作为零售商 他们的产品和市场信息传送
products and messaging more accurately reflect
更准确的影响了这些变化 想想Aerie ThirdLove
these shifts. Think Aerie, ThirdLove, and
和瑞哈娜的野蛮系列的名人产业线
celebrity lines like Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty,
凯特胡德桑的品牌以及碧昂丝的艾薇公园
Kate Hudson’s Fabletics, and Beyonce’s Ivy Park.
他们的成功是维秘要面对的主要问题
Their success underlines a major problem for Victoria’s Secret:
零售商 一度被认为是个改革者
the retailer, once heralded as
而这改革者正落后于这个时代
a revolutionary, is falling behind the times.
我们来看看原因 首先越来越多女人
Let’s look at how. First, women increasingly
优先考虑舒适感和一种更自然的设计
prioritize comfort and a more natural look. The
这对于性感的整个态度和指引
whole attitude or prescription of sexiness is
和它五年前相比非常的不同
very different today than it was, I would say, five years ago.
舒适是关键词
Comfort is the key word here.
在女式贴身内衣方面 女性想拆掉胸罩里的钢圈和胸垫
On the lingerie side, women want to swap their wired,
她们想要更舒适的胸罩
padded pushup bras for comfortable bralettes,
乳罩和套装
bandeaus, and body suits. By the time
到2016年 维密推出无钢圈无胸垫的胸罩
Victoria’s Secret introduced bralettes in 2016,
但市场上已挤满了像Aerie ThirdLove和Soma 等品牌
the market was already crowded with brands like Aerie, ThirdLove, and Soma.
Aerie 主攻年轻顾客市场
Aerie especially hit the mark withyounger consumers. Its annual
从2015年起同店销售额每年成双倍增长
same-store sales have increased by double-digits each year since 2015.
在运动休闲系列方面
On the athleisure side,
维密同样迟于市场
Victoria’s Secret was again late to the game.
运动休闲系列的市场价值从2013年到2018年增长已超过40%
Athleisure’s market value grewby over 40 from 2013 to 2018,
从女性瑜珈运动裤到
as women sported yoga pants to
咖啡店 食品店
coffee shops, grocery stores, and sometimes
和实体瑜珈课
actual yoga classes. So when Victoria’s Secret
所以当维密在2016年推出运动休闲线时
introduced its athleisure line in 2016, it had to
它要和已存在的巨头露露柠檬 耐克竞争
contend with existing behemoths like Lululemon and Nike.
露露柠檬 一个瑜珈裤忠粉的完美品牌
Lululemon, a mecca for yoga pants enthusiasts,
自从在2007年推出市场以来
has increased its overall sales and
瑜珈套装的销售额和利润每年持续增长
profit every year since it went public in 2007.
其次 一场能代表各类人群和身材的运动
Second, a growing movement to represent all types
逐渐成为主流
of people and bodies has gone mainstream.
维密的款式不多 在那儿你无法感受到代表性
They’re not very diverse and you don’t get that much representation there.
所以我更愿意
So I’d rather shop
去那些能突显我自己特点的店
somewhere where I can, like, see myself. Like the glamorous,
像那些迷人的 完美的身材 完美的色彩搭配
the perfect body, the perfect
我达不到这种要求
color…I don’t relate to it.
在衣服设计信息传达上
Victoria’s Secret’s competitors increasingly emphasize racial, body,
维密的对手们越来越强调种族 身型 性别的包容性
and gender inclusivity in their messaging.
看看他们的广告
Just look at these ads from Ivy park and
像Ivy Park和Aerie 以及跨性别明星Laverne Cox
Aerie featuring transgender star Laverne
和大码超模Iskra Lawrence
Cox and plus-sized model Iskra Lawrence. When
当对Vogue杂志谈到她新推出的女用贴身内衣裤时
speaking to Vogue about her new lingerie line,
超级巨星蕾哈娜形容自已
megastar Rihanna described herself as” not built
“不像维密女孩”
like a Victoria’s Secret girl.”
但维密紧密相连的维密天使们
But Victoria’s Secret clings to its Angels, who
是苗条且丰满的性感尤物的缩影
epitomize the slim yet busty bombshell look that
但越来越多的消费者认为这种尤物不现实 有损人格
consumers increasingly shun as unrealistic and demeaning.
所以你看到这些美妙的事
So you see these fantastical things
沿着T台走来 女人们并没有共鸣
coming down the catwalk and women can’t relate to it.
2018年 维密被推到舆论的风口浪尖上
Victoria’s Secret found itself in hot water
在时尚杂志Vogue的采访中
when Chief Marketing Officer Ed Razek implied in
市场首席官Ed Razek暗指大码模特
a 2018 Vogue interview that neither plus-sized
和跨性别模特是不可能代言维密的
nor transgender models could sell the Victoria’s
为此记者和推特用户猛烈抨击他
Secret fantasy. Writers and Twitter users slammed
声称维密和维密秀已过时 有跨性别恐惧症等
the retailer, calling it and its show outdated, transphobic,
连维密的竞争对手ThirdLove
and more. And Victoria’s Secret’s competitor ThirdLove
在纽约时报中用一整版广告页面 让其滚出品牌圈
called out the brand and a full page ad in The New York Times.
Razek随后道歉 并开始在表演中启用跨性别模特
Razek later apologized, statingthe show is open to casting transgender models.
最终维密要面对
Finally, Victoria’s Secret could face a backlash
越来越多的消费者关注公司的伦理观问题
from consumers who increasingly care about company ethics.
2018年英敏特报告显示
A 2018 Mintel report notes that
97%的美国消费者认为
97 percent of U.S. consumers think it’s at least
该公司的行为道德很重要 比率高于2012年的76%
somewhat important that companies behave ethically, up from 76 percent in 2012.
维密在年度道德时尚报告中支持率一直低下
Victoria’s Secret consistently ratespoorly on the annual
这些年还要面对一堆的谴责
Ethical Fashion Report and has faced a slew of
包括童工和奴工的报道
accusations over the years, including reports of
美国财经频道希望维密做出回应
child and slave labor. CNBC reached out to
但他们拒绝了
Victoria’s Secret for comment, but they declined.
经过两年重创后
After the rocky last two years, analysts and
分析家们和投资者们为L Brands旗下的维密感到担心
investors worry for L Brands’ falling angel. L
L Brands公司的持续销售额增长靠的是旗下的其它流行品牌
Brands’ continued sales growth is now thanks to its other popular brand,
Bath & Body Works品牌
Bath & Body Works.
品牌维密现在尝试新的策略 希望生意有所好转
The brand is now trying a few tactics to turn this trend around.
首先 他们计划重新加入泳衣类
First they plan to re-enter the swimsuit catalogry
还有其它已放弃的类别
as well as others they’ve abandoned.
其次 他们继续和大品牌Ugg boots合作
second they pursue collaboration with brands like Ugg boots
以及和时尚设计师Balmain和 Mary Katranzou合作
and fashion designers like Balmain and Mary Katranzou.
最后该公司正在考虑削减其房产
Finally, the company is looking at paring back its real estate,
有分析家指出
as analysts have argued it has far too
维密在全美有太多的商店了
many stores across the country.
尽管如此 分析家对他们的策略是否奏效还有疑问
Still, analysts question if these steps will work.
维密似乎不像在尝试改变它的产品
Victoria’s Secret doesn’t seem to be trying to change
去跟上消费者需求的变化
its products or messaging to keep up with shifting consumer priorities.
至少 没有竞争对手那么快速
At least, not as fast or
或者说没有竞争对手那么成功
successfully as its competition.
他们的产品分类
Their product assortment is lacking in terms of
缺乏对目标观众真正需求的理解
understanding what their target audience wants.
你知道 做为零售商需要敏感的商业嗅觉
You know, as a retailer you have to be nimble.
而维密仍然在尝试
Victoria’s Secret is still trying to appeal to
去吸引像《广告狂人》时代的男人 只是这样而已
the men of the Mad Men era. And that’s over.

发表评论

译制信息
视频概述

介绍了维密的创立发展衰退和如何崛起 以及崛起后如何面对竞争对手

听录译者

收集自网络

翻译译者

GPS

审核员

审核员_XY

视频来源

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvCP7yxQf_g

相关推荐