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新奥尔良的狂欢节!

THE REAL NEW ORLEANS MARDI GRAS!!!

大家好 我们是Marko Alex巴加兄弟
What’s up everybody? It’s Marko and Alex,
现在你收看的是我们旅行篇章的
the Vagabrothers, and you’re watching the first video
第一个视频
in a new chapter of our travels.
这是因为在接下来的几个月里 我们
That’s because for the next couple months, we are
将徒步旅行美国
trekking around America, and we’re
我们将从一个非常独一无二的城市出发
starting in one of its most unique cities,
路易斯安那州的新奥尔良
New Orleans, Louisiana.
现在是本地一年中最盛大的节日之一:
We’re here during the biggest celebration of the year:
狂欢节 也就是忏悔星期二
Carnival, known locally as the Mardi Gras
这个节日起源于法国 传播到西班牙
Founded by the French, traded to the Spanish,
流行于美国
and bought by the Americans.
路易斯安那州的新奥尔良坐落于
New Orleans, Louisiana sits at the mouth
密西西比河下游入海处
of the Mississippi at the intersection
欧洲文化 美国文化和加勒比黑人文化交融于此
of European, American, and Afro-Caribbean cultures.
新奥尔良 或者
New Orleans, or “Narlins”
当地人说的”Narlins”
as locals call their city has always
是一个不同文化交汇融合的地方
been a place where diverse influences mix and melt
由此产生了新形式的文化
to produce new forms of culture found only here.
从爵士音乐到法国料理
From jazz music to Cajun cooking
还有这个城市最盛大的节日:
in the city’s most decadent celebration:
忏悔星期二
Mardi Gras.
我们要去哪里啊?新奥尔良
Where are we going? We’re going to New Orleans.
2014年的忏悔星期二
Mardi Gras 2014
什么鬼?
What was that?
不过干嘛不去呢?
Why not?
我们已经回来两个月了
We’ve been back home two months.
我们在圣地亚哥和洛杉之间徘徊
We’re between San Diego and Los Angeles.
我们很努力地推广这个电视节目
We’re working really hard. We’re trying to pitch a television show.
本质上 我们是流浪者 但我们也是旅行者
At heart, we’re vagabonds; we’re travelers.
我们不能坐以待毙
We can’t sit still for very long.
所以 当我们做这个决定时没怎么犹豫
So, it didn’t take much convincing for us to go to the
美国最盛大的节日:
biggest festival in America:
忏悔星期二
Mardi Gras.
我超激动 我从没来过美国南部
I’m pretty excited. I have never been to the American
我也没来过路易斯安那州 没来过新奥尔良
south. I’ve never been to Louisiana. Never been to New Orleans
在飞机上 我们开始谋划如何让我们的新奥尔良之旅
On the airplane we started to find out what makes
变得与众不同
New Orleans so different.
这是个文化混合之地 你找不出第二个这样的地方
It’s got this blend of cultures you don’t find anywhere else.
首先 这里并不是完全属于美国
First and foremost, this was not always part of America.
这里也属于法国 属于西班牙
It was part of France. It was part of Spain.
美国买下了路易斯安那州
And America purchased Louisiana
在1803年的路易斯安那州拍卖会上
in the Louisiana Purchase in 1803.
它比美国的任何地方都更像一个加勒比城市
It’s actually more of a Caribbean city than anything else in America.
这是个相当酷的地方 这里有忏悔星期二的传统
It’s a very cool place, and it has this tradition of
你在美国别的州是找不到的
Mardi Gras, which you will not find anywhere else in the States.
我们知道狂欢节
We knew there was a lot more to Mardi Gras
不仅是波旁大街 啤酒和珠子
than just Bourbon St, beers, and beads.
和奶子
And boobs.
我们的任务是尽可能多的找到和狂欢节有关的事物
We were on a mission to find out more about Carnival,
学习这座城市的历史和传统
learn about the city’s history and traditions
同时看一下经历过美国历史上
and also check up on New Orleans a decade after
最严重的自然灾害之一 卡特里娜飓风后的
Hurricane Katrina, one of the worst natural disasters
新奥尔良怎么样了
in American history.
我们下了飞机 现在在前往的路上了
We got off the plane and got right into it.
我们去了我们的主人 莱斯利和大卫的房子
We made it to the house of our hosts, Leslie and David.
他们不在家 但留下了钥匙
They weren’t there. They left us a key,
他们告诉我们在聚会上碰面
and basically told us to come meet them at the party.
感谢我们的朋友Cassidy和他的父母
Thanks to our friend Cassidy and her family
招待我们 这间屋子在重新装修
who are hosting us here. The house is under
但他们让我们住在楼上
reconstruction, but they’re letting us stay upstairs.
那么我们要去房里放下包包
So, we’re going to find our room, drop our bags,
然后出去逛逛
and hit the streets. Let’s go.
我们乘坐电车前往法国区的
So we hopped on a streetcar and headed downtown
市中心
to the French Quarter.
新奥尔良拥有有轨电车
New Orleans has streetcars, which
这些可是老古董了
are some of the oldest in the country.
当我们上车时发现这里可是有很多
When we got on, they were full of drunk partiers
来自美国的酒鬼哦
from around the United States.
我们见到了Leslie和David 看到了我们在新奥尔良的第一次游行
So we met up with Leslie and David, saw our first
戴上了珠子项链 做了每个来参加新奥尔良州
parade, caught some beads, and then did what every
狂欢节的游客都会做的事情
other tourist does when he comes to New Orleans
我们来到了法国区的
for Mardi Gras: we headed to the French Quarter on
波旁街 人超多
Bourbon Street. Total chaos.
你觉得怎么样?
How you feeling?
很好啊
Pretty good.
一天战胜,就剩下四天啦
One night down. Four more to go.
第二天早上 Leslie和David告诉我们
The next morning Leslie and David told us
尽管波旁大街很有趣
that as fun as Bourbon Street is, that’s not what
那不是忏悔星期二
Mardi Gras is about.
那是关于家庭和社区的
It’s about family and it’s about community.
所以他们邀请我们参加家庭聚会
So, they invited us to a house party where
我们在聚会上吃到了当地的家常菜
we ate local homemade food
观看了一场游行
and checked out a parade, known as
克鲁组织的
a Krewe.
当地社区俱乐部每年都会组织活动
local community clubs that organise the events every year.
在游行中 噪音
Amidst the parades, the noise
音乐 尖叫 珠子
the music, the screaming, the beads,
我们找到一家女修道院
we found a convent,
满是修女 当丽塔修女邀请我们进来
full of nuns, where Sister Rita invited us in
告诉我们一点关于
to tell us a little bit about the Catholic roots
狂欢节的天主教起源
of Carnival.
忏悔星期二本身是一次
The idea of Mardi Gras, itself, was a chance to let off
释放精力 在大斋节开始之前好好享受的机会
steam and have a good time before Lent started.
吃尽肉 吃掉所有你不能
Finish off the meat, eat all the stuff that you weren’t
在大斋节里吃的东西
supposed to eat during Lent.
那是狂欢节的意思 是
Is that what Carnival means? Yes.
它的意思是“levare”是中断
It means “levare” was to cut off.
中断“carne”肉
To cut off the “carne,” the meat.
中断来自肉的所有乐趣
The whole idea of cutting off the pleasures of the flesh,
不仅仅是不吃肉
not just eating flesh meat.
在新奥尔良这边很好笑因为
It’s comical here in New Orleans because we’re
就是这里是世界海鲜之都
right here in the seafood capital of the world.
所以在大斋节开始的时候
So as soon as Lent starts, which is supposed to be
被认作一个苦修的术语 所有饭店都在广告
a term of penance, all the restaurants are advertizing
精彩的大斋节和海鲜菜单
the wonderful Lent and seafood menus.
在女修道院之后 游行整个下午都在进行
After the convent, the parades rolled all afternoon
一直到晚上
and deep into the night.
在新奥尔良两天后
After two days in New Orleans,
我们绝大部分时间都待在法语区
we spent most of our time in the French Quarter
和住宅区 这叫做河上的银子
and Uptown. That’s called the Sliver on the River.
这是新奥尔良仅有的高处
It’s one of the only elevated parts in New Orleans,
它躲过了卡特里娜飓风
and it escaped Hurricane Katrina
相对来说没有损坏
relatively undamaged.
这不是我第一次来这个城市
This wasn’t my first time in the city.
我在2008年作为一名志愿者来到这里 在卡特里娜后不久
I came here in 2008 as a volunteer, shortly after Katrina.
我们来重修房屋
We came to rebuild houses
因为这个城市的大部分都被破坏了
because huge sections of the city were totally destroyed
包括低九区
including the Lower 9th Ward,
这是征税实际上被损坏
which is where the levies actually broke
洪水最糟糕的地方
and flooding was the worst.
我想回到9区看看
I wanted to go back to the 9th Ward to see
重建过程进行得怎么样
how the reconstruction process has been going.
所以我们驶向Common Ground
So we headed over to Common Ground,
是灾难发生后一周后的来的一个NGO
which is an NGO that came one week after
建立商店
the disaster, set up shop,
之后重建了九区
and has been rebuilding the 9th Ward ever since.
所以为了看到全景 我们爬上了
So to put it all in perspective, we climbed up
levies 为了保护城市低处
the levies, the concrete barriers
免于洪灾的
that are supposed to protect the lower parts
水泥墙 我要爬到那里
of the city from flooding. I’m going to climb up there
看看邻居们在做什么
and see how the neighborhood is doing.
我猜我不得不爬上单手
I guess I have to climb up one-handed
三脚架。Bro,你给我的帮助呢?
with the tripod. Where’s the help, Bro?
沿着这条征程
Walking along the levy
看着那里的密西西比河
and looking at the Mississippi there
并且试着去想象它会是什么样
and trying to imagine what it would have been like
在这水下的整个街区。
with this entire neighborhood under water.
那足以打破
That’s enough to break the will of
任何城市的决心。站在这儿你能看到
any city. Standing there you can see that there’s been
进程中的做多复苏。
a lot of recovery in process.
那是无处去接近的。任然有大量的工作去完成。
It’s nowhere near done. There’s still so much work to be done.
但是,这种文化仍然在那里。
But, the culture’s still there.
人们仍然很骄傲,他们准备返还
People are still proud, and they’re coming back to
他们的家乡。
their homes.
Mardi Gras.重要的日子。
Mardi Gras. The big day.
早上7点的起床电话。
7 am wakeup call.
花花公子在街道中央游荡,
Dudes are out there in the middle of the street,
打鼓,喝酒,
playing drums, drinking beers, and
这天的开始非常冷,
the day started off very cold,
而且不幸的事,它又下起了小雨。
and unfortunately, it started pissing rain.
但是当地居民都倾巢出动
But locals were out in full force
参加游行。但是我们
in a number of parades. But we made
要使我们的使命更加特别,
our mission more specific,
并且找到独一无二中的一个和有趣的传统
to find one of the most unique and interesting traditions
在这个城市里:这个狂欢节的印第安人。
in the city: that of the Mardi Gras Indians.
狂欢节印第安人是非洲裔美国人
Mardi Gras Indians are African Americans
他们完全像印第安人一样
who dress up as indians
穿着打扮,在这
totally decked out in the most
最复杂的习俗中。我们不能知道更多关于
elaborate costumes. We didn’t know much about the
狂欢节印第安人,所以我们带着好奇心去寻找他们
Mardi Gras Indians, so we were curious to find them
向我们讲他们的故事。问题是寻找他们。
and tell us their story. The problem was finding them.
很冷。很热。多雨。
It was cold. It was wet. It was raining,
我们完全不知道到哪里寻找他们。
and we didn’t know exactly where to find them.
我们想,哪里会比较干旱?
We thought, where is it going to be dry?
1-10高速公路下怎么样?
How about under the I -10 freeway?
我不知道怎么去说。这里只是一个隧道
I don’t even know how to say it. There was just a tunnel
关于排队,烧烤,音乐,
of parties, barbecues, music,
食物,和啤酒。在远方……
food, beer. And in the distance……..
羽毛头饰。
feathered head dresses.
我们找到他们了。接下来你知道,
We found them. And next thing you know,
舞蹈战役。
dance battle.
为什么你要穿成这个样子?
Why are you dressed the way you’re dressed?
昨天我们在下面第九级,我们知道
We were in the Lower 9th yesterday, and we know
飓风会带来巨大的破坏。
there was a lot of damage during the hurricane.
你对这个城市目前的行为怎么看?
How do you feel the city is doing now?
可怕的回归。
It’s come back tremendously.
有一天你会成为一个印度人吗?
Are you going to be an Indian one day?
我以前是,你是吗?
I was. You were?
听了这个狂欢节印度人的故事
Hearing the story of the Mardi Gras Indians made
使我意识到这个城市有一个长的传统
me realize that the city has a long tradition
关于人们聚到一起互相帮助
of people coming together to help each other
在困难时期。
out during hard times.
卡特里飓风过后,作为结束许多美国人把这个城市写了下来。
After Katrina, a lot of Americans wrote the city off as
但是这并不是真的。它仍然是生机勃勃的。
finished. But that’s not true. it’s very alive.
那是因为使一个城市保持鲜活的
And that’s because what keeps a city alive
是使它和好的社区。
are the communities that make it up
新奥尔良被祝福拥有一个强烈的
And New Orleans is blessed to have such a strong
社区精神。这就是我们所看到的在
community spirit. And that is what we see on display
Carnival所展示的那样。这疯狂的两天
here at Carnival. It’s been a crazy couple of days
已经让我见识到
and one that has really opened my eyes to
文化的多样性,就在这里
the amount of cultural diversity we have right here
在美国。我超乎满意的惊讶
in America. I’m just so beyond pleasantly surprized
于我在新奥尔良发现的那些,
with what I found here in New Orleans,
我们肯定会回来的。
and we will most definitely be back.
非常希望,你们满意我们从新奥尔良
Hopefully, you’ve enjoyed our take on New Orleans
的Mardi Gras带来的这些故事。如果你来过这里或者你来自这里,
Mardi Gras. If you’ve been here or you’re from here,
请把你最喜欢的关于这个城市的东西分享在
let us know your favorite thing about the city in the
下面的评论框里。
comment box below.
或者可以通过社交媒体@Vagabrothers
Also find us on social media @Vagabrothers
一如既往,让我们路上见。
and as always, we’ll see you on the road.

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