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制作豪华手表的精湛艺术 – 译学馆
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制作豪华手表的精湛艺术

The Painstaking Art of Luxury Watchmaking

Every new watch is like a new piece of art
一块新手表就是一件新艺术品
It has a different story to tell.
它们都讲述着各自不同的故事
the very interesting things about watches: on the one hand you have a high precision device
有趣的是 手表一方面是一种高精密的设备
and the other thing is they have to be hand finished which is very related to arts and crafts.
另一方面手表也是一种与艺术紧密相关的手工艺品
You have these two worlds in one watch
你能在一块手表中同时感受到这两个方面
both the aesthetical aspect of it and the mechanical aspect of it.
即其兼具艺术的审美价值和仪器的精密度
Arnold and Son made
亚诺表的制作
Here we are at Arnold and son in our premises La Chaux-de-Fonds
现在我们位于拉绍德封的亚诺
where we manufacture all of our watches.
我们所有手表都是在这里生产的
Arnold and Son refers to John Arnold
亚诺表品牌由约翰·亚诺创立
who was one of the biggest and most important watchmaker who ever lived.
他是有史以来最具影响力和最重要的钟表匠之一
He invented a lot of technical solutions still in use today.
他创造了许多至今仍然沿用的技术解决方案
The aim of the modern company to innovate and to continue his legacy.
公司如今的目标就是在沿用并对他的成果进行创新
but in a contemporary, new manner
但是在当今的背景下
the idea is really to continue the story more than to repeating it
制表的理念更多的是延续其中蕴含的故事而不是重复
First with the design team we design how the watch should look like
设计团队要在手表零件运作协调的基础上
the size it should have the thickness you have to have a kind of mechanical harmony is it good-looking or not
考虑手表的大小 厚薄以及是否美观
and when we are happy with the new complications and we think the watch are something news
当我们对新手表的所有设计感到满意后
then we create basically the inner work which will make the aesthetic happen.
接下来就是设计表的内饰 使它有审美价值
The first thing you have to do is to order the right material
首先要做的是准备好恰当的原材料
because we use a lot of different materials into mechanical movement
手表的机械运动组件会用到许多不一样的原料
going from brass over steel up to titanium or gold
包括黄铜 钢铁 钛金属和黄金
and you need a specific material for every different part of it.
不同的手表零件要用特定的材料
once you have the raw material
原材料准备齐全后
you start really making the components
就要开始制作手表部件了
We have different kinds of raw materials going to different workshops
我们把不同种类的原料放在不同车间
for depending on the part you want to make
为的是单独制造需要的手表零件
If you want to do watchmaking on super high level
如果要进行超高水准的手表制作
you need extremely skilled and specifically trained people
就需要非常熟练且受过特殊训练的工匠
we have more than thirty different job description purely different education
为了培养不同工种 我们的方案超过30种
and you find these education these training only in this region
只有在这个区域你才能找到这种培养模式
because nowhere else in the world you need such kind of know-how
因为其他地方根本不需要如此精细的制表分工
Working with tiny parts is a challenge
生产微小的部件是一种挑战
because tiny parts makes very small tolerances
因为微小部件的容错率极低
We are working in micron tolerances
所以当我们生产微米级部件时
so you cannot do anything without good tooling
如果没有精密的工具 就什么都做不了
We have in house a tool making department
我们公司内有一个工具制作部门
which makes from the little screwdrivers watch make a need
从钟表匠需要的小螺丝刀
up to a stamping tool which
到需要数月时间来开发的冲压工具
takes months of development
都由这个部门负责
The reason why we do all our tooling in house
我们之所以要自己制作所有工具是因为
because if you are not mastering your tools
如果控制不了工具的精密程度
you’re not mastering the part you want to produce
就无法制造出精密的部件
once all the parts are cut with machinery they goes to the clean
机器切割好所有部件后 接下来送去清洁
They submitted to quality control
零件随后会被送到品控部门
decides if the part is good enough
那里校验零件是否符合标准
to continue to the decoration workshop
是否可以被送到装饰车间中使用
Different kinds of traditional movie decorations are applied from
从日内瓦纹机芯到哑光抛面 不同的部件
Geneva’s drives sateen finish depending on the company.
我们采用了各种各种传统的机芯装饰手法
These mechanical watch you buy today is not the leading technology anymore.
如今你买到的手表不再是高精度的仪器
It’s really crafted arts.
这是真正的手工艺品
You are not racing for technological breakthrough.
人们不再追求科技的重大突破
You are more racing for making most exact watches
而更多地追求手表的精准度
There is a very different relation to a mechanical version you do to an electronic device
人与机械表之间的羁绊不同于电子表
because the day you buy it you know that the next one will come
在你买下它的那一天 你就知道总有一天
and you will swap it to getting the better one
你会扔掉旧表 再买块更好的
with the mechanical watch, it’s really the object as a physical object of all the handwork
对于机械表而言 正是手工制作
which makes it special and unique.
赋予它独一无二的特性
That’s makes a big difference to something more the electronic side
也让它和电子表之间有了很大的不同
Once these bars have been decorated their quality checks again to
装饰好的零件会再次进行质检
see the decoration hasn’t affects the functional aspect of it
以确定装饰没有影响原本的基础性能
That’s always a bit of a trick that you have to decorate but not to deteriorate the part.
这通常需要一定技巧 既要美观又要性能
They go to be preassembled in a specific workshop before going to the watch makers.
零件先在特殊车间里预装 后送至工匠手中
set stones for instance in two main plates put axes on two wheels
比如给表盘装上宝石 给齿轮装上轴
once all these parts have been preassembled they arrive to watchmaker who does the final estimate.
所有零件预装完成 制表匠再做最后的处理
The watchmaker gets all the little parts and little boxes
制表匠拿到全部的小零件和小容器后
start taking the main plate which is the base on everything gets billed on
从表盘开始组装 它是装配其余部件的基础
adding the wheels which are all on axis
把不同规格的齿轮装到轴上
different ridges holding all different wheels in place
再给不同规格的齿轮装上不同的连接梁
you have to add all the winding mechanism because you want to be able to wind your watch
要装上发条 这样手表才能转动起来
put a dial on it then you put hands
然后把刻度盘和指针放上去
and one last thing which we are always at the end is the escapement
最后要做的就是安装擒纵机构棘轮装置
which is basically the heart of any mechanical watch
这也是所有机械表的核心部分
it’s also what you hear when you’re listening to a mechanical watch when you have it Tic Tac
你听到的机械表滴答声也是因为这个零件
it’s the very first time you will see and hear you watch moving
这就是手表第一次发出声音 开始转动的时刻
Starting from the simple beating it’s a long process going to a highly accurate mechanical watch
指针从简单移动到精确计时历经艰难探索
you cannot just put the parts together and expect to watch to tell perfect time
你不能简单组合零件还妄想手表精准计时
we are checking the watches of $600
我们会花费600小时
on different vibration and other machines to get rich
使用不同的震动频率和其他机器检查手表
to learn everything in okay
确保手表一切正常
It can be just a little tiny you does you don’t see it
当你把手表组装好之后
when you put it all together but when you move the watch
即使是肉眼看不到的细小灰尘
it’s kind of files of the movement.
也会对机芯的转动产生巨大的阻力
So this process is pretty pretty long
手表调试过程非常漫长
but this is what the complexity of such a mechanical device requests.
但这也是生产高精度机械表所必需的
Once you think that the accuracy of the movement is good.
确定手表的转动足以达到精度要求后
You put it into a watch case which we protect the movement
你就可以把它放在起保护作用的表壳里了
You add the bracelet and the backup and you have a watch
再装好表带和表后盘 手表就制作完了
watches up most of the time perceived as a time capsule
手表最重要的作用就是提示时间的流逝
it’s really something which are still built today
这个自上个世纪就被人使用的物件
as it used to be for the last centuries.
直到今日仍然没有停产
It’s nice I think also for people to be able
人们依然愿意为了艺术形式购买手表
to die something which has always existed
手表也会因其艺术性得以永存
and then probably will always exist as a form of art.
我认为这是很好的一件事

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视频概述

一块机械手表是艺术与精密的结合,它的制作过程对工艺、工匠都有极高的要求。

听录译者

收集自网络

翻译译者

RRRRick

审核员

审核员BY

视频来源

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDFqsjoFFxo

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