I often get this question:
经常有人问我这个问题
“Why would anyone buy a piece of clothing that doesn’t exist?”
“为什么有人会买一件现实中不存在的服装？”
And as you can see, it’s not that it doesn’t exist.
如你所见 不是说它真的不存在
Digital fashion is real, and it exists in so many virtual universes,
数字时尚是真实的 它存在于许多虚拟世界
ranging from basic social networks
从基础的社交网络
to fully developed virtual worlds known as the metaverse,
到成熟的虚拟世界也就是元宇宙都能见到
letting people express themselves in a way not possible before.
它使人们以前所未有的方式表现自己
I’ve been playing video games since I remember,
我从记事起就开始玩电子游戏了
dressing up my game character.
装扮我的游戏人物
Actually, I enjoyed it more than dressing up myself.
实际上比我打扮自己还高兴
Five years ago, I was running a physical fashion brand.
五年前 我经营着一家时尚品牌实体店
But because of my gaming experience,
根据我的游戏经验
I kept thinking:
我不住思考：
“How and why could people wear digital garments?”
“人们怎么穿而且为什么要穿数字化服装”
And there was a reason I believed they would.
我认为他们这样做是有原因的
In 2016, I did research on “hypebeast culture”
2016年 我研究了“潮流文化”
You know, those people buying and selling garments
你知道 就是潮流爱好者买卖
that are always sold out.
那些老是脱销的服饰
As part of this research,
作为研究的一部分
I’ve joined various Facebook groups where they were gathering.
我加入了各种潮流爱好者聚集脸书小组
What I noticed was they were usually buying those pieces
我注意到他们买这些衣服通常只为了
just to post a photo of themselves wearing it on their social channels.
在社交媒体上晒一张穿着这件衣服的照片
And later on, they would resell it.
发完后 他们就重新卖掉
So they didn’t need or want the actual garment.
所以他们既不需要也不想要真实的服装
They wanted its image, and that image was being used online.
他们只想要穿到身上的效果 且要晒到网上
And it made sense to me,
对我来说 这很好理解
because, like most of my generation,
因为大部分我这个年龄的人
they had their friends, peers, role models in the virtual space,
在虚拟空间里都有朋友 伙伴和榜样
and this is where we care to express ourselves.
所以我们很想表现自己
This is when I started experimenting
也是这时候我开始尝试
with what today we know as digital fashion.
我们今天所熟知的数字时尚
Now I run the world’s first direct-to-consumer digital fashion brand
现在我经营着世界上第一家直销的
and a fashion tech house.
数字化时尚品牌和一家时尚科技公司
We officially started last year,
我们在去年正式成立
and our growth has been unimaginable from a traditional fashion perspective.
从传统时尚角度看我们的发展速度不可思议
Apart from doing our own designs,
我们除了做自己的设计
we regularly collaborate with the biggest names from the industry.
还经常和这个行业一些最著名的人合作
With Carolina Herrera, we collaborated on a runway dress
我们和卡罗琳娜·埃莱拉共同设计了一套失控连衣裙
and developed an app
还开发了一款软件
where you can wear the dress on your phone using augmented reality.
在这款手机软件里 你可以使用增强现实技术穿上这件连衣裙
And with Jean Paul Gaultier,
我们也和让• 保罗•高提耶一起设计了一套衣服
we collaborated on a piece that was part of their couture collection.
这套衣服还进入了他们的时尚系列
We even have our flagship store in the Decentraland,
我们甚至在游戏“分布式大陆”开设了自己的旗舰店
a metaverse owned and created by its users.
它是一款由用户拥有和建立的游戏
And we are not the only ones.
游戏里不只有我们几家
For example, on Demat, an NFT marketplace,
还有比如像Demat这样的虚拟代币市场平台
fashion brands are selling authenticated digital fashion items
销售经过认证的数字时尚产品
that are usually sold out as soon as they are released.
这些产品通常一上架就被抢空了
And as it was for me,
在一定程度上 对我来说
the games are becoming a gateway to digital fashion for many.
游戏正成为许多人通往数字时尚的大门
The biggest names in the luxury segment are eagerly trying to enter this space.
奢侈品领域的大腕们也迫切地想加入这行
Balenciaga has collaborated with Fortnite,
巴黎世家与堡垒之夜进行了合作
and Gucci bag was sold inside Roblox for more than its worth in real life.
在罗布乐思平台售出的古奇包超过了它的现实价格
Fortnite itself has sold more than two billion worth of skins and game extras
堡垒之夜自己就已卖出价值二十多亿的皮肤
for in-game character dressing.
和游戏里角色装扮使用的装备
But it’s a misconception that creating digital fashion is quick and easy.
但要认为创造数字时尚简单又快速就错了
We often have to play by the same rules as in real-life physical fashion.
它和创作有形时尚是一个道理
Think back to a time when there were no computers
回想从前没有电脑的时候
and people were making posters by hand.
人们制作海报纯靠手工
When the software like Adobe Photoshop finally arrived,
当一些像PS一样的软件出现时
they thought making posters is going to be so much quicker and easier.
人们以为制作海报可以这样简单便捷
But obviously that wasn’t true
但显然事实并非如此
because technology just replaced outdated principles with new possibilities.
因为科技只是用新的办法淘汰了过时的机制
So instead of doing most of the development in the physical space,
我们会在屏幕前完成大部分制作
we do it in front of our screens.
而不是在线下
The process is the same, just the tools are different.
制作过程相同 只是工具不一样
And in the end,
最终 所有制作的好坏都依据
everything falls back to a complexity of a piece or a concept.
作品或设计理念的精致程度
For example,
比如
there’s a huge difference in creating a basic T-shirt
不管你使用哪种方法 一件基础款T恤的创作
or a couture-like dress, regardless of the medium.
和一件高定礼服裙之间就是有天大的区别
And the digital realm somehow forces you to go into that exploratory direction.
数字领域会以某种方式促使你去探索
Because do you even need a physical T-shirt in a virtual space?
因为在虚拟空间里 你不需要一件实体T恤
With digital fashion, you can experience fashion in its purest form,
数字时尚能让你抛开实用性不谈
devoid of functional barriers.
体会时尚最纯粹的形式
You don’t need your sleeves there.
这里的服装不需要衣袖
You don’t even need your hands.
甚至不需要你的双手
Digital fashion is not an alternative but an evolutionary step.
数字时尚不是处于替代阶段 而是处于进化的阶段
And we are currently at the beginning of this new era,
我们正处在新时代的开端
an era where digital garments could become an added layer to our reality,
在这个时代 数字化服装能够增加现实层次感
where you will be able to instantly choose to whom you want to present yourself,
在这个时代 你将能够立即选择 利用如AR或VR这类最先进的科技
wearing multiple different outfits at the same time
同时穿上各种不同服装
and using most advanced technology, like AR or VR for example.
想把自己展示给谁看
And not only does it allow for self-expression
数字时尚不仅可以使用户
in totally different contexts,
在完全不同环境中展示自己
but digital fashion can be zero-waste and inclusive, available to users,
而且 无论用户的性别 身材及种族
regardless of their gender, size or race.
它都是适应用 不浪费 包容性强
I come from Croatia,
我来自克罗地亚
a country that is nowhere on the fashion map,
这是一个在时尚地图上根本找不到的国家
yet my company is considered one of the pioneers of this field.
然而我的公司却是这个领域的先锋者之一
When we started, we were among the few doing it.
因为我们起步时还没有多少人做这个
And since then,
但从那以后
a whole new evolving market has grown around it.
数字时尚带来了一个全新的不断发展的市场
Digital fashion market is going to be huge.
数字时尚市场会壮大起来
But from my experience, no one knows how far it could go.
但就我的经验来看 没人知道它能发展到什么程度
It’s fairly simple.
原因很简单
Technology usually grows exponentially, and so will our virtual presence.
技术通常呈指数型飞速发展 我们的虚拟产品也是
And someone has to dress these people.
总要有人给这些人物装扮
Thank you.
感谢观看