今天我真的是超级兴奋
Today, I’m really super excited.
因为我们在Killer看到了从画稿到实际的翅膀的发展过程
Because we have come to see the development from sketch to actual wing, from Killer
感觉就像是我们对细节做出决定的时刻
This is like the moment where we make decisions about the detail
因此 我真的意识到要时常去质疑那些可想而知的结果
So, I’m really conscious of trying always to challenge the predictability.
是啊 我们不想看到整个一片都是白色翅膀或者都是……
Yeah, we don’t want a whole sea of white wings or a whole sea of…
嗨 衣服挺好看的 她很可爱
Hey, nice, outfit. She’s adorable
嗨 翅膀就是在这里做的？
hey is this where the wings are made?
珠子挺好看的
The beading looks pretty
哇……
Wow…
你用了多少种颜色？
How many colors are you using?
两种粉红色 一种金色
Two pinks and one gold
缎带太闪亮了
Ribbon’s too shiny
那就把它做的不那么闪亮 我觉得那种闪有一点吓人
Make it so it’s less shiny, I think the shiny is a bit frightening
从前面看它 因为我有一点担心
Look at it from the front, cuz’ I was a little concerned
这种绿和这个凫蓝混合的太多了 -是啊
That this green and this teal were blending too much. -yeah
如果有蓬蓬的东西在它周围看起来就很好
It looks quite nice when there’s poofy stuff happening around it
所以你就看背面了
So you just see the backside
好吧 我还没有很好的褶子放前面呢
Ok, I don’t have the.. Drapes, Perfect in the front yet
因为我对翅膀的框架还不太确定
Cuz’ I’m not positive about the frame
你觉得有点太过宽了吗？ -是的
Do you think it’s a bit too wide? -Yes
好像从后面看上去好看些 -对的
Like it looks good from the back. –right
那个应该成为前部吗？
Should that be the front?
我就怕你会这么说 -哈哈哈
I was afraid you were gonna say that. –hahaha
是的 当然 我们当然会做
Yes of course of course we can
-好的 -把它颠倒过来
-OK. -Turn it upside down
那样实际上更漂亮 -那样的话
That’s actually more beautiful. -That way around
试衣非常重要 把所有东西都试穿下
It’s so important to have the fittings and just try everything on
因为 画稿永远不能跟最终成品一样
Because, the sketch never really looks like the final
-嗯 是不会 -因为它不是3D的
-no -Cuz’ it’s not 3D
欢迎来到泽西城的By Barak
Welcome to By Barak, in Jersey city
现在我们在做一件紧身衣
Right now we are working on a bodysuit
这件弹力紧身衣的每一寸都是手工制成的
And every bit of this unitard is hand-done
必须这样
It’s got to be
珠子必须一个一个的放上去
The beating has to be put on individually
这件衣服用了6.5周的时间完成了串珠
And this one took 6 and a half weeks for them to beat
有一些衣服我们会分配给女孩们
Some of the pieces that we have are, assigned to girls
因为像紧身衣这样的衣服
Because with a piece like this, with a body suit
三维尺寸必须得合适
You’ve got to get the measurements right
做这件衣服的想法 就像是她被
And the ideas to make this look like, she’s been
浸在胶水里
Dipped in glue
又被扔到珠子堆里
and thrown into beads.
就像是它应该贴合的像第二个皮肤
Like it should just fit like a second skin
这是我们的《圣经》
This is our Bible
我们从事的每个时装表演都有本《圣经》
We have a Bible for every show that we work on
这里我们有这个黑天使
So here we have the dark angel
她是完全由皮革制成的紧身衣
And she’s a complete leather corset
还有皮革做的翅膀
And leather wing
就像一片片叶子做的一样
It’s all done as leaves.
我认为这个概念就如同 她被包裹在这些皮革叶子里
I think the concept is that she’s wrapped in these leather leaves.
它们就像在她身后开花
And they are kind of blowing around behind her
这将是一个八英尺长的披肩
This is going to be about an 8 foot long cape
那个都是定制的图案 有大概200朵花在上面
That’s all custom-painted, with about 200 flowers on it
这个是那件披肩成品的样品
This is the sample of what this is all gonna look like
只是成品比那个大四倍
Only 4 times big as that
绘制我们现在做的这个部分花了有一周的时间
It takes about a week to paint the parts we are doing right now.
之后得拿去蒸 那样有时候
Then after that, it has to be steamed, which is , sometimes,
织物就……
The fabric is
然后被放到框架里
Then put on the frame
我们画过的每个地方都要用蜡防染
Everywhere we painted has to be resisted with wax
然后和背景一起重新再画 这要持续4、5天
And then paint it again with background, which is another 4, 5 days
所以就这个披肩大概要两周半到三周的时间
So just for this one cape, is probably, say, 2 and a half, 3 weeks.
一旦绘制完成 我就把它送到裁缝那里
Once all this is painted, I send this back to the tailor, who
裁缝会把它缝好
Stitches it together
这个演出做的很好
It’s such a well-produced show
所有东西在电视上看起来都棒极了
That…Everything looks so great on television
在我们绘制完成后织物后 作品品质也随之显现出来
And the craftsmanship are what’s done with all these fabrics, after
挺不可思议的
we painted them, it’s incredible
我为“维多利亚的秘密”工作的这个部分叫“路在前方”
The segment I’m working on for Victory’s Secret is called the “The Road Ahead”
这个想法就是 你融合这样那样的
and the idea is that you’re blending in little bits of
来自世界各地文化的小东西
this and that from all cultures around the world
对于有一些外观我用了丝绸 线
For some of the looks I’m using silk, threads.
我把它们变成流苏 我自己也做这些流苏的
And I turned them into tassels, I made the tassels myself as well
这些硬币状的东西很多都是来自尼泊尔
A lot of these coins come from Nepal
我用了珠子 珠子是我文化很大的一部分
I’m using beads, which is a huge part of my culture.
用铃铛来发出声音 因此这个珠宝就不仅仅
And bells to make sounds. So that the jewelry is not just
起了美学的作用
Serving like an aesthetic, functionality
所以它不仅仅和一种材料相作用
So it plays with more than just one medium
而且我认为维密秀
Plus I think Victory’s Secret show is just
更戏剧一些 所以这样会更好
It’s more theatrical, so it works better.
它们有一些很美的东西
There’s something about them that’s very beautiful
有一些有些许超凡的东西
There’s something about them that’s slightly off
也许材料看上去很简单
The materials might look very straight-forward
但是它们非常不简单
But they are very not
串珠是最被低估的艺术制作和匠艺种类之一
Beading is one of the most undervalued forms of artmaking and craftsmanship
制作这些东西要命的耗时费力
The time that you spend that goes into making one of these, is incredibly laborious
我常试图怎么用这些
I’m always constantly trying to see how I can use the material
常被人轻易忽略的材料
That people just easily overlook
怎样把它们变成你们之前从来没有见过的东西
And how I can turn them into something that you’ve never seen before
这个当然得是我最喜欢的东西
And this has to be my favorite
我有很多很喜欢的东西
I have too many favorites
哈哈……它的美很简单
Haha… The beauty is so simple
我最大的挑战是
The biggest challenge for me is,
我想探究 我想表现的东西
I want to explore, what I want to say.
但同时尊重品牌要表现的东西
But also respecting, what, the brand want to say
因此这就成了美好的搭配
So it’s this beautiful match
因为我不想我大胆的设计太过于压倒性
Cuz’ I don’t wanna be too overpowering with my crazy design
同时我也不想太受它们的影响
At the same time I don’t wanna be too inspired from them
因为那样的话他们也就不会让我来做这件事了
Because they wouldn’t be asking me to do it
几周以后我们将会有真正的试衣活动
In few weeks, we are gonna have the real fitting
由真正的模特走T台表演
With the actual model for the runway.
她们正好是极好的人
They happen to be über human beings
因此她们不管怎样看上去都是非常好的
So they are going to look amazing in anything anyway
所以……
So…
但她们会让这些衣服更加熠熠生辉
But they’re gonna make these clothes even more amazing
那就是这些女孩美丽的所在了
And that’s the beauty of these girls.
女孩们了解选角 知道怎么做
Girls know about the Casting. Know what to do
她们学习该怎样表现自己
They study how they need to look
我感觉她们也在不断改进 反复排练
And act. And I feel like they are also polishing, well-rehearsed
我们第一天才半天的时间
We are only halfway through the first day
就发现有很多挺好的女孩
And there are so many good girls.