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Tamborrada: The Beat of a Basque Drum

嘿 最近过得怎么样 我们是Vagabrothers
Hey, what’s up? We’re the Vagabrothers!
I’m Alex
我是Mark 我们现在在圣塞巴斯蒂安
And I’m Mark, and we’re in our home away from home – San Sebastian.
在这里每一天的生活都非常棒 但今天尤其特殊
Now every day in San Sebastian is awesome, but today is particularly rad, because
因为今天是塞巴斯蒂安日 在当地就像打鼓节一样
it’s Sebastian Day, known locally as the Tamborrada.
In a few hours the streets will be packed with people dressed in bizarre costumes
for the biggest party of the year.
但是 这并不一直是一个大派对
But hey – it hasn’t always been a party.
没错 它发源于这个城市最黑暗的那些日子——
You’re right – It actually has its roots in the city’s darkest days
when San Sebastian was burnt to the ground during the Napoleonic Wars
So before we start drinking and partying, let’s learn a little bit more about the history.
圣塞巴斯蒂安 或者被巴斯克人称为”德诺斯底” 是西班牙北海岸的一颗明珠
San Sebastian, or “Donosti” in Basque, is the jewel of Spain’s northern coast.
它因美景而闻名 美丽的沙滩 精美的食物
Famous for its beauty, beaches and excellent food. But it’s so much more
然而它绝不仅仅是一个度假胜地 它是一个拥有灵魂的城市
than just a resort town. It’s a city with a soul, one that locals
proudly display every January during the Tamborrada.
两百年前 圣塞巴斯蒂安是一个筑有防御工事的边境城镇
200 years ago, San Sebastian was a fortified border town.
Great for trade, no so good during a war. So when Napoleon conquered Europe, he took
San Sebastian as well. And as in any war, relations between soldiers and citizens
weren’t great.
The French impact on the city can be
从圣塞巴斯蒂安的美食到建筑包括打鼓节的故事中 都能看的出来
seen from gastronomy to architecture to the stories that surround the Tamborrada.
Legend has it that this is where the Tamborrada
在这里诞生的 两百年前 圣塞巴斯蒂安有两座山
was born. 200 years ago, San Sebastian had two fountains.
在每个清晨 妇女们便会来到这里用她们的水桶打水
And every morning, women would come here to fill up their water barrels
而这时 法国士兵正好行军打着鼓路过
while the French soldiers marched by, banging on their drums
在经过时 他们总是偷看这些路边的美女 自然 他们这一举动惹怒了很多当地人
and checking out the chicks. Naturally, this pissed off a lot of the locals.
所以当地人决定 要打自己的鼓
So they decided, we’ll mock the French, by playing
在水桶上拿刀叉敲击 来戏弄他们
our own drums, banging knives, forks and spoons on our water barrels.
Now that history is still alive in the costumes of the Tamborrada.
女孩们身着传统服装 而男孩们则穿着士兵或厨师的衣服
Girls will wear traditional gear while guys will dress up as either soldiers or cooks
现在 一套正宗的、合适的军装将会花掉你700欧元
Now, a real, proper solider’s outfit will cost you 700 euro
相当于1000美元 所以我们将会买最便宜的那套 然后去99美分店
that’s like 1000 bucks. So we’re going to do the cheap version and go to the 99 cent store
for the basic get-up.
Nobody knows exactly who started the Tamborrada
but we know who has kept it alive – the city’s many gastronomical societies
known simply as “sociedades”
传统的排外 男人专有聚餐俱乐部
Traditionally exclusive, males-only dining clubs, sociedades are where
sociedades是指市民们大吃大喝 享受互相的陪伴的地方
the guys of the town go to eat well, drink heavily and enjoy good company.
Every year, each sociedad organizes it’s own
For over 100 years, sociedades
like this one have been keeping the tradition of the Tamborrada alive.
But the times are changing
and you no longer have to be a man or in a sociedad to play your tambour.
我的天 Mark 下雨了伙计
Ah, my god, Mark it’s raining, dude.
It’s literally raining on the parade.
No worries, bro.
这是一年中最盛大的派对 他们将一直在这里
It’s the biggest party of the year. They will be there.
So it’s almost midnight and we are in the heart of San Sebastian
——Plaza de la Constitución时 已经午夜了
at the Plaza de la Constitución.
现在雨下的特别大 但是每个人都涌向广场
It’s raining like crazy but everyone’s about to flood the square
当钟声在12点响起 他们就举起旗帜 意味着24小时的派对开始了
and when the clock strikes twelve, they raise the flag and it starts 24 hours of party.
So we popped our heads in under some of the
各种雨伞下 然后问他们 打鼓节对他们来说意味着什么
umbrellas and asked people what the Tamborrada meant to them.
What does the Tamborrada mean to you? Is it just a party?
不 它绝不仅仅是一个派对 它让整个城市聚集在一起享受节日的快乐
No, it’s much more than a party. The whole city gets together.
to have fun and to remind us of
让我们团结的所有东西 而不是让我们分裂的东西
all the things that unite us, not all which separates us.
For friendship and family.
但现在在下雨 你还会在这吗
But it’s raining and you’re still here?
Of course!
Being from San Sebastian is something to be proud of
最后 你还是来自你的家乡 但这里 我们
In the end, you are where you come from. And here, we have a party that
为了我们的日子欢聚一堂 这是圣塞巴斯蒂安的日子
is our day, the day of San Sebastian.
因此 它不仅仅是一种感受
Therefore, it’s not just a feeling
它是我们身份的一部分 圣塞巴斯蒂安
it’s part of our identity. San Sebastian
is very special
What does this day mean to you guys?
对来自的诺斯底的人们来说 这是世界上最棒的日子
For someone from Donosti, it’s the best in the world.
雨水 寒冷 那又怎么样——这就是最棒的
Rain, cold, whatever – this is the best.
You have to carry it here.
Go Real Sociedad!
在这个盛大的节日我站到了舞台上 这可真是疯狂啊
I am on stage at this fiesta right now, it’s pretty nuts
每个人在这都很热情 我想
Everybody is filing in here and I think I’m going to be
我将要到打鼓节的中心了 所以我想我最好走远一点
in the middle of the Tamborrada right now so I’d better get out of the way.
除了今天的雨水和寒冷 看上去好像整个城市都在这个广场上
Despite the rain and the cold, it seemed like the entire city was in this plaza
除了和正宗的sociedad在一起 这个城市的足球队 刚刚击败了巴塞罗那
And with Real Sociedad, the city’s football team, having just beat Barcelona,
it’s couldn’t have been a better night to be from San Sebastian.
哦对 最后 睡觉
Ah yes, finally…sleep
整个晚上和整个第二天 鼓声一直回荡在这个城市中
All night and throughout the next day, the sound of the tambour echoed through the city
It was remarkable – 15,000 people playing in 125
不同的乐队中演奏 而且至今似乎没有人对听三首同样的歌厌倦
different bands and yet no one seemed to tire of hearing the same three songs.
这真是太奇特了 要说这个城市里每一个孩子都在这
This is so gnarly. It’s literally every single kid in the city is here.
每个学派都在这一点也不夸张 每个人都有自己的列队 他们都穿着不同的军装
Every school is here, everybody has a parade, they’re all dressed up in different military uniforms.
要不是这个场面太有趣了 那看起来可就可怕了
If it wasn’t so cute it would be scary.
For a culture as old as the Basques’
200 years of tradition is not that much time
但是我们容易看到 当人们不断地把这种传统
But it’s easy to see that in passing this tradition along
传递到更年轻的一代时 它将延续到更遥远的未来
to the younger generation, it’s something that’s going to survive many more centuries into the future.
All day we watched soliders march down the 31st of August Street
它是在最后的战役中唯一幸存的街道 英国人和葡萄牙人
The only street to survive the final battle, where the British and Portuguese
pushed Napoleon’s forces out of the city, but in the process
但在圣塞巴斯蒂安被烧成废墟时 讽刺的是
burned San Sebastian to the ground. Ironically, St. Sebastian
它变成了基督教的殉道者 你可以在教堂上面看到他的雕像
was a Christian martyr, and you can see his statue above the church, his body
他的身体被射满了箭 但是的诺斯底人
riddled with arrows. But Donostiarras didn’t dwell
并没有沉浸在悲伤中 相反 他们聚在一起
on the wounds in their sides. Instead, they came together
重建了城市 这一次没有围墙
and they rebuilt the city, this time without walls. Not a fortress
一个城市在世界上诞生了 而不是一个新的要塞
but a city open to the world.
圣塞巴斯蒂安日接近尾声 人们开始回到Plaze de la 广场
As San Sebastian Day drew to a close, the people returned to the Plaza de la Constitucion
唱起他们城市的歌 庆祝他们共同的历史
to sing their city’s song, celebrate their shared history and keep alive a tradition
that turned a tragedy into a triumph of the spirit and showed
向人们展示着 无论发生什么 圣塞巴斯蒂安的人们将会永远敲响他们自己的战鼓
that whatever happens, the people of San Sebastian will always march to the beat of their own drum.