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H&M如何让你花钱,拿出衣柜里的H&M – 译学馆
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H&M如何让你花钱,拿出衣柜里的H&M

Sneaky Ways H&M Gets You To Spend Money

就像卡迪•B说的
So like Cardi B says,
我喜欢巴黎世家的东西
I like those Balenciagas,
那些看起来像袜子的 对吧?
the ones that look like socks, right?
“我喜欢巴黎世家的东西
I like those Balenciagas
那些看起来像袜子的”
The ones that look like socks.
真希望你能有看起来像袜子的鞋子
Wish you could have the shoes that look like socks.
如果你不想花七百七十美元
Well, if you don’t want to spend seven hundred and seventy dollars,
就去Zara专卖店瞧瞧
you can head over to Zara,
花六十美元就能买到类似的衣物
and get something pretty similar for about sixty bucks.
你的衣橱里可能有一些H&M标志的衣服
Chances are your closet probably has some H&M logos in it.
不止是H&M
H&M isn’t alone.
Zara Forever21 Fashion Nova 优衣库等零售商
Retailers like Zara, Forever21, Fashion Nova,Uniqlo and so many more
都符合快时尚的定义
all fit the definition of fast fashion.
时尚业是世界上最大的产业之一
The fashion industry is one of the largest industries in the world,
而且还在发展
and it’s growing.
为什么在H&M这样的商店买便宜的衣服这么容易?
Why is it so easy to buy cheap clothes at stores like H&M?
事实证明 这种不可抗拒的部分原因 是由我们大脑中的化学物质引起的
Well, it turns out part of that irresistibility is in our brain chemistry.
H&M是怎样让你掏钱买衣服的
How H&M gets you to spend money?
一般来说 时尚业分为两个明确定义的季节
Traditionally, the fashion industry has been organized into two clearly defined seasons.
秋冬季和春夏季
Autumn, winter and spring, summer.
快时尚的概念起源于70年代末和80年代初
Fast fashion emerged in the late 70s and early 80s,
当时 人们紧跟潮流
at a time when trends became much more sought-after,
技术开始发展
technology started advancing,
制造业外包海外
manufacturing was outsourced overseas,
合成纤维开始越来越多地应用于服装中
and synthetic fabrics started to be incorporated a lot more into clothing.
最初的理念很简单
The original idea was simple:
让T台时装尽可能便宜和可负担
Make runway fashion cheap and available as soon as possible.
研究人员将快时尚定义为推动零售客流量的营销工具
Researchers define fast fashion as a marketing tool to drive retail footfall.
它使零售商能够频繁地向客户提供最新的产品
It allows retailers to make up to date product offers to their customer base frequently.
零售商以源源不断的新产品创造需求
Retailers create demand with a constant flood of new items.
快时尚的功能是这样的:
Fast fashion functions like this:
设计师们穿梭于各个时装秀
Designers travel to fashion shows
密切关注Instagram等平台
and closely monitor platforms like Instagram.
然后立即送图获取模型
Then immediately send off photos to get model.
材料从海外采购和制造
Materials get sourced and made overseas,
商店完成储备
stores get stocked.
而在H&M内部 一周内就能走完整个流程
And H&M can do this process all internally and all under a week.
快时尚实现盈利的唯一办法就是
The only way fast fashion can turn a profit
卖出大量的衣服
is that they sell a ton of clothes,
而且也的确卖得多
which they do.
2017年 H&M的销售总额高达250亿美元
H&M’s yearly sales in 2017 were 25 billion dollars.
他们的CEO的净资产是19亿美元
And their CEOs’ net worth is 1.9 billion dollars.
为了保持顾客的回头率和复购率
In order for consumers to return and keep purchasing,
衣服的款式需要快速更新
the clothes need to be cycled through quickly,
而不是衣服更耐穿
rather than invested in for long term wear
要的是即时消费
It is for immediate consumption.
是紧跟时下潮流
It is to capture the look of the moment.
而不是在衣橱的经久不衰
It is not to linger in the wardrobe.
所以 说回穿着袜子鞋的卡迪•B
So back to Cardi B in the shoes that look like socks.
所以 你买了巴黎世家那双看起来像袜子的鞋
So you go and you get the Balenciagas that look like socks
这是丹尼尔
That’s Daniel.
丹尼尔从高端时尚界走出来
Daniel went from the world of high fashion
与这个行业对地球的影响作斗争
to combating the effets the industry is having on the planet.
一切都是由纺织废料制成的
Everything is made from textile waste.
店铺里其他所有的产品都是用回收材料制成的
And all of the other products in the store are made from recycled materials.
所以 你买了巴黎世家那双看起来像袜子的鞋
So you go and get the Balenciagas that look like socks.
这只是为品牌和代言人赚钱
And it’s only making money for the brand and the endorser.
它不会再像过去那样
It’s not functioning the way it used to
因为价值或质量而购买一个品牌
which was to buy into a brand because of the value or the quality.
追逐潮流只是为了赚钱
It’s buying into a trend to make money.
追随潮流是人类独有的特性
Following trends is a uniquely human trait.
而快时尚零售商们深谙此道
And fast fashion retailers know that.
这就是为什么一走进H&M
That’s why when you go into an H&M,
所有衣服的设计似乎是最新的
all the designs seem new and freshly updated.
不幸的是 我们不可能忽视幕后发生的事情
Unfortunately, it’s impossible to ignore what’s going on behind the scenes.
过去的几十年里
Over the past few decades,
快时尚零售商们被指责利用发展中国家的
fast fashion retailers have been accused of exploiting developing countries
廉价劳动力 廉价原料和对工作条件的监管不力
for cheap labor, cheap materials and poor regulation of working conditions.
2018 人权组织 (全球 劳工 正义)发布了一份报告
In 2018, the rights group (Global, Labor, Justice)released a report
详细描述了亚洲工厂受到威胁和虐待的指控
detailing allegations of threats and abuse at Asian factories
这些工厂为Gap和H&M供应服装
that supply clothes for Gap and H&M.
H&M在一份声明中表示:
In a statement, H&M said:
这份报告清楚地表明了持续解决这些问题的必要性
This report clearly shows the need of continuously addressing these issues.
赋予妇女经济和社会权力是防止基于性别的暴力的一种方法
The empowerment of women economically and socially is a way to prevent gender-based violence.
我们的立场非常明确
Our position is very clear
我们积极支持全球纺织业的这种发展
and we actively supports such a development within the global textile industry.
为此 我们努力实现结社自由
We do this by working to enable freedom of association,
加强工人话语权
strengthening workers voices,
和加入或组成工会 以及集体谈判的权利
and the right to join or form a trade union as well as bargain collectively.
那么 为什么这种情况几乎每年都会发生呢?
So, why does this keep happening almost every year?
我认为对于快时尚来说 最大的问题是
The bigger issue I think for fast fashion is
你有工厂 供应商 分包商 再分包商
that you have factories, suppliers, subcontractors,sub-subcontractors,
所以问题是
so the question is,
当你看一个全球供应链时
when you look at a global supply chain
一个大品牌如何知道当地法律受到尊重?
how can a major brand know that the laws in a local jurisdiction being respected?
这是一个更大的问题
That’s the bigger problem.
结合糟糕的工作环境和低廉的合成材料两点
Combine a poor ability to regulate working conditions and synthetic materials,
你就会开始明白为什么一件t恤的成本这么低
and you can start to understand how a T-shirt can cost so little.
问题在于 面对大减价 我们的大脑会招架不住
The problem is our brains have a really difficult time looking passed the slashed price tag.
卡耐基•梅隆大学研究员做的一项研究显示
A study done by researchers at Carnegie Mellon revealed that
受试者面对折扣价格展示物品 大脑的三个部位会产生反应
subjects who are presented items at discounted prices revealed reactions in three parts of the brain.
当你考虑买东西的时候 大脑会从对新事物的期待中获得快乐
When you consider buying something, the brain gets pleasure from anticipating a new item,
但在考虑损失时也会经历痛苦
but also experiences pain when considering the loss of money.
然而 当价格较低时 几乎没有痛苦
However, when the price is low there is almost no pain.
因此 在H&M购买时可能感觉不错
So while it may feel good to get deals at H&M,
低价让我们忘了频频出现的新闻头条
the low prices help us forget the frequent news headlines.
最后 我们已经在考虑下一步需要什么
And in the end, we’re already thinking about what we need next.
自然而然地 长达一年的购物季造成了很多浪费
Naturally, this a year long shopping season is creating a lot of waste.
时尚文化每年在垃圾填埋场留下1400万吨纺织废料
The culture of trendy fashion leaves 14 million tons of textile waste in landfills each year.
一件衣服不可能从头到尾都是完整的
It’s impossible for an entire item of clothing to be completely made from start to finish.
对于商品的售价
For the prices that things are sold for,
它改变了消费者对于商品价值的看法
it changes the consumers’ perspective on the value of things.
所以 它使那些东西有了合理的价值…以及一定的升值空间
So it makes things that have a healthy value and… and a healthy appreciation for themselves.
排他性的快速时尚是不可持续的
Exclusionary, fast fashion isn’t sustainable.
因为可持续性显然意味着
Because sustainability apparently means
你能够以一定的速度或水平保持做某件事
something you are able to maintain doing at a certain rate or level.
如果我们继续需求新材料
If we continue to demand new materials
生产废料和副产品
and produce waste materials, and by-products.
以我们现在的速度
At the rate that we’re doing it,
它将会对环境产成灾难性的影响
it will have catastrophic effects on the environment.
情况会比现在更糟
Worse than it already has.
当东西很便宜的时候 我们往往不会太在意它们
When things are cheap we tend not to really care about them as much,
或者不会关心它们从哪来 最终会到哪里去
or how they got here, or where they eventually end up.
消费者需要自我教育
Consumers need to educate themselves.
当价格很低的时候
And when the price tag is really low,
他们应该问为什么这么低 对不对?
they should be asking question why is it so low, right?
我的意思是 人们生活需要预算 我们理解这一点
I mean again people live on budgets, we understand that.
但问题是 这后面是否有足够的人权保障?
But the question is…is there a strong human rights policy behind that?
我认为快速时尚更大的问题
And I think the larger issue for fast fashion is
不是说我在H&M需要10件t恤 然后买一件扔掉
rather than saying I need 10 T-shirts at H&M and I’m going to buy one and throw it out.
作为一个消费者 这是不可持续的
And not be sustainable as a consumer
我可能会多投资少买 对吧?
that I may be gonna invest a little bit more and buy less, right?
这才是主动负责任的消费和购买行为
So there’s really just initiative responsible consumption and responsible buying.
然而 H&M表示 它正朝着更可持续的未来迈进
However, H&M says that it’s moving toward a more sustainable future.
根据其2017年可持续发展报告
According to its 2017 sustainability report,
该公司的目标是到2040年实现气候改善
the company’s goal is to be climate positive by 2040.
那么 这意味着什么呢?
So, what does this mean?
首先 它希望
Well,for starters,
到2030年100%使用可回收或其他可持续来源的材料
it hopes to use a hundred percent recycled or other sustainably sourced materials by 2030.
走向一个无毒的时尚未来
And move to a toxic free fashion future.
当被要求发表声明时
When asked for a statement,
H&M让我去了它的可持续发展博客
H&M directed me to its sustainability blog,
里面经常更新一些H&M在这一方面的动态
which provides frequent updates on its efforts.
下一步是什么呢?
So what’s next?
好吧 冒着听起来陈词滥调的风险
Well, at the risk of sounding Cliche,
真正的改变首先来自个人
real change comes first from the individual.
但是 如果你和我一样
But if you like me,
就很难认为花100美元买一件白色T恤是合理的
it’s pretty hard to justify spending a hundred dollars on a white T-shirt.
综合考虑所有因素
With all things considered,
这取决于消费者选择他们想支持的业务
it’s up to consumers to choose what businesses they want to support.
我们花的钱决定了这个行业的走向
The money we spend determines where the industry goes.
而如今 时尚业除了提高业绩什么也没有做
And right now, the fashion industry isn’t going anywhere but up.

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