So like Cardi B says,
I like those Balenciagas,
the ones that look like socks, right?
I like those Balenciagas
The ones that look like socks.
Wish you could have the shoes that look like socks.
Well, if you don’t want to spend seven hundred and seventy dollars,
you can head over to Zara,
and get something pretty similar for about sixty bucks.
Chances are your closet probably has some H&M logos in it.
H&M isn’t alone.
Zara Forever21 Fashion Nova 优衣库等零售商
Retailers like Zara, Forever21, Fashion Nova,Uniqlo and so many more
all fit the definition of fast fashion.
The fashion industry is one of the largest industries in the world,
and it’s growing.
Why is it so easy to buy cheap clothes at stores like H&M?
事实证明 这种不可抗拒的部分原因 是由我们大脑中的化学物质引起的
Well, it turns out part of that irresistibility is in our brain chemistry.
How H&M gets you to spend money?
Traditionally, the fashion industry has been organized into two clearly defined seasons.
Autumn, winter and spring, summer.
Fast fashion emerged in the late 70s and early 80s,
at a time when trends became much more sought-after,
technology started advancing,
manufacturing was outsourced overseas,
and synthetic fabrics started to be incorporated a lot more into clothing.
The original idea was simple:
Make runway fashion cheap and available as soon as possible.
Researchers define fast fashion as a marketing tool to drive retail footfall.
It allows retailers to make up to date product offers to their customer base frequently.
Retailers create demand with a constant flood of new items.
Fast fashion functions like this:
Designers travel to fashion shows
and closely monitor platforms like Instagram.
Then immediately send off photos to get model.
Materials get sourced and made overseas,
stores get stocked.
And H&M can do this process all internally and all under a week.
The only way fast fashion can turn a profit
is that they sell a ton of clothes,
which they do.
H&M’s yearly sales in 2017 were 25 billion dollars.
And their CEOs’ net worth is 1.9 billion dollars.
In order for consumers to return and keep purchasing,
the clothes need to be cycled through quickly,
rather than invested in for long term wear
It is for immediate consumption.
It is to capture the look of the moment.
It is not to linger in the wardrobe.
So back to Cardi B in the shoes that look like socks.
So you go and you get the Balenciagas that look like socks
Daniel went from the world of high fashion
to combating the effets the industry is having on the planet.
Everything is made from textile waste.
And all of the other products in the store are made from recycled materials.
So you go and get the Balenciagas that look like socks.
And it’s only making money for the brand and the endorser.
It’s not functioning the way it used to
which was to buy into a brand because of the value or the quality.
It’s buying into a trend to make money.
Following trends is a uniquely human trait.
And fast fashion retailers know that.
That’s why when you go into an H&M,
all the designs seem new and freshly updated.
Unfortunately, it’s impossible to ignore what’s going on behind the scenes.
Over the past few decades,
fast fashion retailers have been accused of exploiting developing countries
for cheap labor, cheap materials and poor regulation of working conditions.
2018 人权组织 （全球 劳工 正义）发布了一份报告
In 2018, the rights group (Global, Labor, Justice)released a report
detailing allegations of threats and abuse at Asian factories
that supply clothes for Gap and H&M.
In a statement, H&M said:
This report clearly shows the need of continuously addressing these issues.
The empowerment of women economically and socially is a way to prevent gender-based violence.
Our position is very clear
and we actively supports such a development within the global textile industry.
We do this by working to enable freedom of association,
strengthening workers voices,
and the right to join or form a trade union as well as bargain collectively.
So, why does this keep happening almost every year?
The bigger issue I think for fast fashion is
你有工厂 供应商 分包商 再分包商
that you have factories, suppliers, subcontractors,sub-subcontractors,
so the question is,
when you look at a global supply chain
how can a major brand know that the laws in a local jurisdiction being respected?
That’s the bigger problem.
Combine a poor ability to regulate working conditions and synthetic materials，
and you can start to understand how a T-shirt can cost so little.
问题在于 面对大减价 我们的大脑会招架不住
The problem is our brains have a really difficult time looking passed the slashed price tag.
A study done by researchers at Carnegie Mellon revealed that
subjects who are presented items at discounted prices revealed reactions in three parts of the brain.
When you consider buying something, the brain gets pleasure from anticipating a new item,
but also experiences pain when considering the loss of money.
然而 当价格较低时 几乎没有痛苦
However, when the price is low there is almost no pain.
So while it may feel good to get deals at H&M,
the low prices help us forget the frequent news headlines.
And in the end, we’re already thinking about what we need next.
Naturally, this a year long shopping season is creating a lot of waste.
The culture of trendy fashion leaves 14 million tons of textile waste in landfills each year.
It’s impossible for an entire item of clothing to be completely made from start to finish.
For the prices that things are sold for,
it changes the consumers’ perspective on the value of things.
So it makes things that have a healthy value and… and a healthy appreciation for themselves.
Exclusionary, fast fashion isn’t sustainable.
Because sustainability apparently means
something you are able to maintain doing at a certain rate or level.
If we continue to demand new materials
and produce waste materials, and by-products.
At the rate that we’re doing it,
it will have catastrophic effects on the environment.
Worse than it already has.
When things are cheap we tend not to really care about them as much,
or how they got here, or where they eventually end up.
Consumers need to educate themselves.
And when the price tag is really low,
they should be asking question why is it so low, right?
我的意思是 人们生活需要预算 我们理解这一点
I mean again people live on budgets, we understand that.
But the question is…is there a strong human rights policy behind that?
And I think the larger issue for fast fashion is
rather than saying I need 10 T-shirts at H&M and I’m going to buy one and throw it out.
And not be sustainable as a consumer
that I may be gonna invest a little bit more and buy less, right?
So there’s really just initiative responsible consumption and responsible buying.
然而 H&M表示 它正朝着更可持续的未来迈进
However, H&M says that it’s moving toward a more sustainable future.
According to its 2017 sustainability report,
the company’s goal is to be climate positive by 2040.
So, what does this mean?
it hopes to use a hundred percent recycled or other sustainably sourced materials by 2030.
And move to a toxic free fashion future.
When asked for a statement,
H&M directed me to its sustainability blog,
which provides frequent updates on its efforts.
So what’s next?
Well, at the risk of sounding Cliche,
real change comes first from the individual.
But if you like me,
it’s pretty hard to justify spending a hundred dollars on a white T-shirt.
With all things considered,
it’s up to consumers to choose what businesses they want to support.
The money we spend determines where the industry goes.
And right now, the fashion industry isn’t going anywhere but up.