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成衣缝纫技巧向:初学者必须了解的几个小技巧 – 译学馆
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成衣缝纫技巧向:初学者必须了解的几个小技巧

Sewing for beginners: Fabric prep, pattern layout & more | Sewing Tutorial with Angela Wolf

成衣缝纫并没有想象得那么难 即使你是一个零基础的新手
Sewing garments is not as difficult as you might think, even if you are total beginner!
总的来说 正确的布料准备能让你的缝纫变得非常轻松
It all comes down to doing the proper fabric prep to make your sewing super easy.
hi 我是Angela Wolf 将为大家介绍一些基本的技巧——
Hi, I’m Angela Wolf – with some essential techniques that every beginner sewer should
都是每一位新手裁缝必知的哦
know!
在摆放图样和剪裁布料之前 进行一些准备工作很重要
Before you even lay out your pattern and cut the fabric, it is important to pretreat it.
如果你打算对最终的成品进行清洗和烘干 就得预先清洗 烘干布料
If you plan on washing and drying your finished garment, pre-shrink your fabric by washing
特别当你采用的是棉或者羊毛这样的自然纤维时
and drying it, especially if you are using a natural fiber like cotton or wool.
如果你计划将成衣进行干洗 那就去到干洗店
If you plan on dry cleaning your garment, just go to the drycleaner and ask them to
请他们先蒸汽熨下你的布料
steam-press your fabric.
准备好了布料 接下来拿上你的图样模板 准备依样画葫芦把它们裁剪出来
Once you’ve prepped your fabric, grab your pattern pieces, and prepare to cut them out.
每一个图样模板上都有一个箭头指示出布纹线 或是
Each pattern piece has an arrow which refers to the grainline, or the direction you need
你需要放置图样的方向
to lay out your pattern.
纵向的布纹线与布边平行
The lengthwise grainline runs parallel to the selvage.
布边就是布料包住的两边——为了减少布料边缘的磨损
The selvages are the two finished sides of the fabric – they’re the tightly woven edges
布边被紧密地编织。也有横向的布纹线
that stop the fabric from fraying There is also the crosswise grainline, which
它们与布边相垂直
runs perpendicular to the selvage.
(选择在横纹布上安排图样 主要是因为横纹布延展性较好
(The main reason to lay a pattern out on the cross grain is to get more stretch in the
或者如果你想改变图样的方向 也可以选择纵纹布)
fabric or if you want to change the direction of a print.)
当你学到更高级的缝纫课程时 图样可以根据布料需要沿倾角裁开
As you get into more advanced sewing projects, the pattern might call for fabric cut on the bias.
倾角与布边成45度角
The bias is a 45° angle from the grainline.
如果我这样折上一个角 折痕就是45度角
If I were to fold this corner right here, this fold would be a 45° angle.
在你剪裁布块前 要先把图样钉在上面
Before you can cut your fabric pieces out – pin your pattern pieces to the fabric – I
我习惯垂直地在接缝处插上大头针 来固定图样 防止歪斜
like to insert the pins perpendicular to the seams to stop the pattern from skewing.
在沿着图样剪裁的过程中 要使用裁缝剪刀 平平地握着它 沿着桌面裁剪
To cut the pattern pieces out, use sewing scissors and hold them flat along the table
然后你就得到了长长的平滑剪裁
to get nice long, smooth cuts.
检查下关键的图样标记 从这些小三角开始
Take a look at the key pattern markings, starting with these little triangles – they’re called
他们被称作刻痕 因为每个刻痕告诉你哪里
notches and they’re important because each notch shows you where to match up the opposite
需要与相对的图样部分沿缝缝合
pattern piece along the seam.
按图样裁剪布料的最简单的方法是:
The easiest way to transfer them from pattern to fabric is to snip about an eighth of an
在裁缝界限内每约1/8英寸剪一个小口
inch into the seam allowance.
但是注意不要超过缝合线
But be very careful to not go past the seam allowance – or you will end up with a hole
否则你的成品上就会有一个洞了
in your project!
它们是缉省缝 把这些记号搬到布料上同样重要(缉省缝:将省缝折合用机器缉缝)
These are darts – it’s also important to transfer these markings.
用碳描过线纸和裁衣辘来标记它们是最方便不过的了
The easiest way to do this is with carbon tracing paper and a tracing wheel.
一般来说 要把碳描过线纸放在布料下方 在布料内里标记
Always mark on the wrong side of the fabric by sliding the carbon paper underneath.
用裁衣辘描绘缉省缝的边缘
Use the tracing wheel to trace the dart.
在缉省缝的外围 我习惯在每个缝合线处剪两小刀
At the outside edge of the dart, I like to put two little snips at each stitch line.
这样在缝线的时候 更容易发现、找到
It’ll make it easier to find and line up when you’re sewing.
关于布料准备的基本知识就是这些了
So those are the basics of prepping your fabric.
记住了这些步骤 你就已经做好准备来开始有趣的活动——缝纫了!
Once you have this down pat you are ready to get to the fun part–sewing!
谢谢观看 别忘了点击视频右上角的“i”
Thanks for watching and don’t forget you can click the “i” at the top right corner of this
来可以学习更多的缝纫技巧 也能找到我在视频中用过的东西
video to learn more sewing techniques or to find the supplies I’ve been using in the video.

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