如今 萨尔茨堡(奥地利城市)对于莫扎特的骄傲
Today, Salzburg’pride in Mozart shows itself best
体现在现场音乐会中 而不是博物馆里
not in museums but in live concerts.
就现场音乐表演来说 萨尔茨堡是世界级的胜地
Salzburg is a world class destination for live musical performances.
每年夏天 这里都会举办萨尔茨堡音乐节 但在萨尔茨堡 全年
Each summer it hosts its famous Salzburg Festival. But Salzburg’s busy all year long
会有两千多场现场表演在教堂或像这样的宫殿里举行
with over two thousand live performances in churches and palaces like this.
我们正进入米拉贝尔宫 在一个巴洛克式的大厅
We’re heading into the Mirabell Palace to hear a string quartet play
欣赏弦乐四重奏
in a splendid baroque hall.
莫扎特曾在这里为大主教演奏
Mozart performed for the prince-archbishop right here.
今天晚上 是由来自莫斯科的特温斯四重奏乐团
And this evening the Twins Quartet from Moscow
来演奏莫扎特的G大调弦乐小夜曲
play Mozart’s Eine Kleine Nachtmusik.
附近的米拉贝尔花园
The surrounding Mirabell Gardens,
建于1730年
laid out in 1730,
是当地人和游客最喜欢去的地方
are a favorite with locals and tourists alike.
看看这个花园 教堂和城堡的景色
Enjoying the garden/cathedral/castle view,
不难想象出大主教有多喜欢这地方
it’s easy to imagine how the prince-archbishop must’ve reveled in such a vista
因为这个地方体现了他在世俗
that reminded him of all his secular
和宗教上的权利
as well as religious power.
向萨尔茨堡的东南方向行驶两小时后 我们将到达我最喜欢的萨尔茨卡默古特湖畔的
We’re heading two hours southeast of Salzburg to my favorite Salzkammergut town
萨尔茨卡默古特镇
on my favorite Salzkammergut lake.
这个小小的火车站位于哈尔斯塔特湖对面 而这个湖所在的小镇以明信片闻名
The tiny train station is across Lake Hallstatt from the postcard-pretty town
有一个和它相同的名字：哈尔斯塔特
by the same name: Hallstatt.
在斯蒂芬妮（一种小船）上可以看到每一辆抵达此处的火车 边欣赏风景 边从湖上滑过到达小镇
Stefanie (a boat) meets each arriving train and glides scenically across the lake into town.
可爱的哈尔斯塔特小镇位于一座山
Lovable Hallstatt is a tiny town bullied onto a ledge between a mountain
和一片被天鹅占领的湖泊中间的一块突出的岩石上
and a swan-ruled lake.
除了一道从中间断开的瀑布
Apart from the waterfall
会发出声响外
which rips through its middle
哈尔斯塔特简直就是一片平静的绿洲
Hallstatt is an oasis of peace.
由于平地很少 高大的房子的前门就建在与街道齐平的地面上
With the scarcity of level land, tall homes had their front door on the street level top floor
而入水口的位置还要再低几层
and their water entrance several floors below.
这个曾经作为盐矿业中心建立起来的小镇 是欧洲最古老的小镇之一
The town, which originated as a salt mining center, is one of Europe’s oldest,
其历史可追溯到公元前几个世纪
going back centuries before Christ.
在罗马时代之前曾有过一个初期铁器时代
There was a Hallstatt before there was a Rome.
实际上 正是因为这儿的盐矿业如此重要 一个从公元前800年到公元前400年的时代——
In fact, because of the salt mining importance here, an entire age —
初期铁器时代
the Hallstatt era,
就是以这个
from about 800 BC to 400 BC — is named
曾经十分重要的地方命名的
for this once important spot.
如果你把这些建筑下面的土地挖开 你会发现来自古代甚至史前储盐仓库的
If you dug under these buildings, you’d find Roman and pre-Roman Celtic
罗马和前罗马凯尔特铺地面的石头
pavement stones from the ancient and prehistoric salt depot.
有一种从法国传播到黑海的文化
This cute little village was once the salt-mining namesake of a culture that spread
与这个美丽的小村落同名
from France to the Black Sea.
在当时 盐是非常珍贵的 因为盐可以用来保存肉类
Back then, salt was so precious because it preserved meat,
而哈尔斯塔特正像它名字的含义一样 是个“产盐之地”
and Hallstatt was, as its name means, the “place of salt.”
一辆陡直的索道缆车带着我们来到山上的哈尔斯塔特的盐矿所在地
A steep funicular runs up the mountain to Hallstatt’s salt mine.
这是这个地区对游客开放的盐矿的其中之一
It’s one of many throughout the region that offer tours.
在矿区 游客们换上工作服 跟着导游一起
At the mine, visitors slip into overalls, meet their guide
徒步进入矿山中
and hike into the mountain.
虽然这条特殊的通道是建于1719年
While this particular tunnel dates only from 1719,
但哈尔斯塔特的矿藏却被认为是世界上最古老的 在旅程中 你会了解到盐是怎么来的
Hallstatt’s mine claims to be the oldest in the world. In the tour you’ll learn the story of salt.
考古学家宣称 早在公元前7000年 人们就已经
Archaeologists claim that since 7,000 BC, people have come
来到这儿开采盐矿了 在青铜时代 一口咸水泉在这儿喷涌而出 引起了当时人们的注意
here to get salt. A briny spring sprung here, attracting Bronze Age people.
之后 矿工挖出隧道 取出了盐岩
Later, miners dug tunnels to extract the salty rock.
他们把盐岩溶解在海水里 让它随着最古老的由砍下来的木材做成的管道流向
They dissolved it into a brine, which flowed through miles of pipes,
哈尔斯塔特和附近的镇子 最后把它煮得只剩下盐为止——
the oldest hewn out of logs, to Hallstatt and nearby towns, where the brine was, and
从古至今都是如此
still is, cooked until only the salt remained.
最好玩的部分是你可以像矿工一样从一层滑到下一层 祈祷自己不会被摔成碎片
A highlight is riding miner-style from one floor down to the next, praying for no splinters.
几个世纪以来 哈尔斯塔特的盐业一直很兴盛 因为没有道路可以通向这里
Through the centuries, Hallstatt was busy with the salt trade. Since it had no
人们来来往往
road access, people came and went
都是乘船 到现在你仍可以见到传统的富尔船 这种船是用来在浅水区
by boat. You’ll still see the traditional Fuhr boats, designed to carry heavy loads
运输重物的
in shallow water.
赫尔·阿尔弗雷德·伦茨根据一个两百年前的设计制造出了
Herr Alfred Lenz makes the town’s traditional boats from a two hundred
这个小镇的传统船只
year old design.
船的桨架仍是用公牛的肠子制成的
The oar lock is still made of the gut of a bull.
阿尔弗雷德说在湖上呆一个小时
Alfred claims an hour
抵得上一整天的假期
on the lake is worth a day of vacation.