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西班牙潘普洛纳的奔牛节 – 译学馆
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Pamplona's Running of the Bulls

We’re here in early July for the Festival of San Fermín,
也就是“奔牛节” 欧洲最热血沸腾的节庆之一
and that means the Running of the Bulls one of Europe’s most exuberant festivals.
每年七月的其中九天 成群结队的游客
For nine days each July, throngs of visitors,
多数穿着传统白衣裤 系着红腰带和红方巾
most dressed in the traditional white with red sashes and kerchiefs
来和公牛赛跑 并享受更多有趣的事情
come to run with the bulls and a whole lot more.
这个让城市挤得水泄不通的节日 有着悠久根源
The festival, which packs the city, has deep roots.
数个世纪以来 这个地区的人都以游行和派对的方式
For centuries the people of this region have honored Saint Fermín,
their patron saint, with processions and parties.
他在12世纪时 因为信仰被斩首
He was decapitated in the secondcentury for his faith.
And the red bandanas you see everywhere are a distant reminder of his martyrdom.
而且你知道的 我不认为这个广场上的任何人知道或甚至在乎这个
And you know, I don’t think anybody on this square knows, or even cares.
But at the Church of San Fermín, it’s a capacity crowd…
and there’s no question what to wear for this Mass.
直至今日 当地居民依然祈祷着家乡圣人的庇护
To this day, locals look to theirhometown, saint for protection.
回到街头 这是一个老少皆宜的派对
Back out on the streets, it’s a party for young and old.
There’s plenty of fun for kids.
And towering giants add a playful mystique to the festivities.
The literary giant, Ernest Hemingway,
被潘普洛纳人歌颂 就像他是这里土生土长的孩子一般
is celebrated by Pamplona as if he were a native son.
Hemingway first came here forthe 1923 Running of the Bulls.
受到壮观场面的启发 后来写了斗牛经典《太阳照常升起》
Inspired by the spectacle, he later wrote his bullfighting classic “The Sun Also Rises”.
He said he enjoyed seeing two wild animals running together:
一种动物是两条腿走路 另一种是四条腿
one on two legs, and the other on four.
Hemingway put Pamplona on the world map.
When he first visited,
这里只是一个有着三万人的尘土飞扬的城镇 默默无闻地举办着斗牛节
it was a dusty town of 30,000 with an obscure bullfighting festival.
Now, a million people a year come here for one of the world’s great parties.
入夜后 城镇就突然变成一片狂欢派对的景象
After dark, the town erupts into a rollicking party scene.
尽管疯狂的人们日夜狂欢 城市却井然有序
While the craziness rages day and night, the city’s well organized,
即便充斥着酒精 也感觉一切进展顺利 万事都在掌控之中
and even with all the alcohol, it feels in control and things go smoothly.
惊奇地是 几个小时之后 同样的街道会呈现出一种截然不同的景象
Amazingly, in just a few hours, this same street will host a very different spectacle.
The Running of the Bulls takes place early each morning.
Spectators claim a vantage point along the barrier at the crack of dawn.
Early in the morning?
不 对于许多饮酒作乐的狂欢者来说 现在还是深夜
Nope, for many of these revelers… it’s still late at night.
The anticipation itself is thrilling.
Security crews sweep those not running out of the way.
Shop windows and doors are boarded up.
Fencing is set up to keep the bulls on course and protect the crowd.
The runners are called mozos.
尽管其中很多是刚结束一夜的豪饮 其他人则是为活动受过训练的
While many are just finishing up a night of drinking, others train for the event.
他们很重视这个仪式 而且每年都跑
They take the ritual seriously, and run every year.
8点钟时 发射火箭炮 “mozos”起跑
At 8:00, a rocket is fired and the mozos take off.
片刻后 第二个火箭炮弹发射 意味着公牛已经被放出来了
Moments later, a second rocket means the bulls have been released.
他们从畜栏狂奔半英里 穿过城镇到斗牛竞技场
They stampede half a mile through the town from their pens to the bullfighting arena.
它们全速奔驰 呼啸而过
At full gallop, it goes by fast.
仅两分半钟 公牛就如雷霆般跑完了全程
Bulls thunder through the entire route in just two and a half minutes.
“mozos”努力跑在公牛前方 越久越好
The mozos try to run in front of the bulls for as long as possible.
Usually just a few seconds before diving out of the way.
他们说好的奔牛跑 是你能感受到公牛的呼吸就在你的腿肚后
They say on a good run, you feel the breath of the bull on the back of your legs.
这非常的残酷 看着公牛从鹅卵石街道上
Cruel as this all seems for the bulls who scramble for footing on the cobblestones
as they rush toward their doom in the bullring.
The human participants don’t come out unscathed.
每年 数十人被牛角刺伤或被踩踏
Each year, dozens of people aregored or trampled.
在上个世纪 有15名“mozos”在这盛会中丧生
Over the last century, 15 mozos have been killed at the event.
活动结束以后 人们聚集在一起吃早餐 并从电视上回顾精彩画面
After it’s done, people gather for breakfast and review the highlights on TV.
All day long, local channels replay that morning’s spectacle.
每天晚上盛会结束时 人群涌入斗牛场
The finale of the event each day is in the evening when crowds fill the bull ring.
Pamplona’s arena, the third biggest in the world after Madrid and Mexico City,
is sold out each day of the festival.
那天早上 公牛一个接一个地从大门里冲出来去见它们的斗牛士
One by one the bulls that ran that morning explode out of the gate to meet their matador.
First, the picadores…
Then, the banderilleros…
And finally, the matador in hissparkling suit of light.
尽管对很多人来说这是残忍的暴行 但其他人仍把斗牛视为一种艺术形式
While cruel brutality to many, others still consider bullfighting an art form.
对我来说很难去欣赏 但对于那些坐满竞技场的西班牙人而言
It’s hard for me to appreciate, but to the Spaniards who pack this arena,
野兽有着崇高地位 打斗带有优雅气息
there’s a nobility to the beast, and an elegance to the fight.
优秀的斗牛士就像摇滚巨星 他们用戏剧效果 胆量和优雅演出
Good matadors are like rock stars, they perform with drama, daring, and grace.
对于每次惊险刺激过招 人群都会高声欢呼直到公牛遭遇它那意料之中的结局
With each thrilling pass, the crowds cheer until the bull meets his predictable end.
If the fight is deemed a good one,
他们会挥动方巾 并要求颁发奖杯
the people wave kerchiefs and call for a trophy to be awarded.
对于这场搏斗 斗牛士被授予牺牲品的一只耳朵
For this fight, the matador is given an ear from his victim
and struts triumphantly around the arena.
The festival’s energy courses through the city.
俯瞰中央广场 庄严的Café Iruña随着音乐与舞蹈颤动
Overlooking the main square, the venerable Café Iruña pulses with music and dance.
在令人愉快的1888年的室内设计里 享受着节日氛围
Enjoying the scene, with its delightful 1888 interior,
I’m impressed by the joyful enthusiasm,
the people of this town have for their festival of San Fermín.









审核员 D