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法国尼斯:海滩,意大利面和香水

Nice, France: Beaches, Pasta, and Perfume

19世纪从伦敦到莫斯科的贵族们聚集在法国的Cote d’Azur沐浴阳光。
In the 19th century aristocrats from London to Moscow flocked to France’s sunny
也叫“蔚蓝海岸”,令人钟爱的是那蓝色的海面和蔚蓝的天空
Cote d’Azur, or ‘blue coast.’ Much loved for its blue seas and blue skies, this was the place
这里也是北欧人交际和冒险的胜地,也完全逃离了那里的阴沉天气。
for Northern Europeans to socialize, gamble, and escape their dreary weather.
无论你是贫穷还是富有,有着永远为你敞开怀抱的的海滨长廊和优美的博物馆的尼斯,
Whether you’re rich or not, Nice, with its eternally entertaining seafront promenade
都是一个可以享受生活的海滨大城市
and fine museums, is the enjoyable big-city highlight of the Riviera.
过去通信匮乏的时候,意大利和法国文化的碰撞,创造了别具特色的地中海服饰
In its traffic-free old day, Italian and French flavors mix to create a spicy Mediterranean dressing.
尼斯美则美矣,但是在七八月份这里充满了燥热和拥挤。现在是六月初
Nice may be nice, but it’s hot and jammed in July and August. We’re here in early June…beating
天气没那么热人也没那么多
the serious heat and crowds.
广阔的英国海滨大道 (字面上的意思指“英国的走道”)
The broad Promenade des Anglais (literally the ‘walkway of the English’) was paved in
用大理石铺设而成,19世纪的贵族们为了不弄脏他们的鞋子和闻着有鱼腥味的石子,
marble for blue-blooded 19th century English tourists who wanted a safe place to stroll
创造了良好的散步和观光的环境
and admire the view without getting their shoes dirty or smelling that fishy gravel.
如今,人们在这条路上骑自行车或轮滑
Today it’s a fun people’s scene with a bike and roller blade path that leads all
通往机场
the way to the airport.
被砾石覆盖的沙滩也很受欢迎
The beach, while pebbly, is popular.
无论是选择肾上腺素激增的运动还是只是日光浴
Whether you’re looking for an adrenalin rush or
这片 沙滩都能满足你。欧洲人对于半身裸露很开放,
just working on your suntan, this beach has it all. Tan lines can be hard to find, as
不用担心出现晒痕。大部分的沙滩都是公共的
Europeans are relaxed about topless sunbathing. While major stretches of the beach are public,
你也可以在私人营业的地方买到垫子、
much of it is private — where you pay to rent a spot, complete with mattress, lounge
躺椅和遮阳伞
chair, and umbrella.
尼斯建立在简单的防御坡道上,从内陆到沙滩都展示着这个丰富多彩的古城
Nice was born on its easy-to-fortify hill. From there — and inland from the beach — spreads its colorful old town.
这座古城的建筑看起来更像意大利风格而不是法国风格,
The old town squares feel more Italian than French because until 1860,
是因为知道18世纪60年代尼斯还被意大利统治着,直到18世纪中叶这里的人们还说着意大利方言
Nice was ruled by an Italian king. Until the mid-1800s, the people here spoke an Italian dialect .
路标仍沿用两种语言,意大利面也仍然是这里的人最喜爱的食物
Street signs are still in two languages and pasta is still a favorite.
尼斯的意大利风格留在了这个城市
Nice’s Italian rulers lived in this palace.
意大利被建造成一个现代化国家时,这个地方有了选择,加入新的混乱的意大利
As the modern nation of Italy was being created, this region was given a choice: join the chaotic
还是选择富有的法国(当时法国被拿破仑三世统治着)
new country of Italy or join wealthy France (which was enjoying good times under the rule
大多数人投票选择法国,成就了现在的尼斯
of Napoleon III). The vast majority of the people voted to go French…and voilà!
这座古城为文化拾荒者提供了一个机会,从中世纪集市广场,出售新鲜的时令果蔬
The old town offers a cultural scavenger hunt of opportunities, from its medieval market
到意大利面馆,无不展示着尼斯的意大利文化
square with fresh seasonal produce to a pasta shop showing Nice’s Italian roots, to the
去附近的一家叫Patisserie Auer的店里,店面橱窗上写着’From father to son since 1820.”
nearby Patisserie Auer. Its belle époque storefront brags that it’s been run
传说维多利亚女王曾在这里吃过东西
‘From father to son since 1820.” Queen Victoria satisfied her sweet tooth right here.
索卡–一种薄的鹰嘴豆可丽饼,放入胡椒和橄榄油调味
Socca — a thin chickpea crêpe, seasoned with pepper and olive oil — is a peasant
是当地的一种主食,是观光旅游体验当地生活的不二之选,在这个繁忙的索卡小摊
staple pre-dating tourism that’s still dear to local hearts. At this busy stand the socca
用摩托车送来的刚出炉的索卡饼,
arrives by motorbike hot out of the oven and is sold and gobbled up as quickly as they
被快速的切成小片
can slice it.
各种品种的花,在这种理想的气候下似乎随处可见
Flowers seem to grow effortlessly and everywhere in this ideal climate. This has long been
这里是海边的最大的花朵市场,新鲜的花朵在这个在某方面昂贵的城市发挥了价值
the Riviera’s biggest flower market. Fresh flowers are a fine value in this otherwise
坐拥品种繁多的花,毫无疑问
pricey city. And with such an abundance of flowers, it’s no wonder perfume is a local
香水是也当地的产品
industry.
莫妮娜家族用蔚蓝海岸的花制作香水已经有一个世纪的历史了
The Molinard family has been making perfume from Cote d’Azur flowers for a century.
香水要像白兰地一样蒸馏像红酒一样存放
Perfume is “distilled like cognac and then aged like wine.” It takes more than 400
要花费400磅的薰衣草才能制作出一品脱的香水原液,在法国
pounds of lavender to produce just one quart of pure essence. For the French, finding just
找到合适的香水是每个人的追求
the right perfume is a personal quest.

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