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维密兴衰史

How Victoria's Secret Lost Its Grip | WSJ

This is the 2018
这是2018年
Victoria Secret Fashion Show.
维多利亚的秘密时尚内衣秀
The hour-long nationally-televised event
自2001年起 这场为时一小时
has served as a showcase
全国播放的维密秀被视为
for the brand’s bras and lingerie since 2001.
品牌方展示宣传文胸和内衣产品的途径
But 2018 was the fashion show’s last broadcast.
但2018年播出的维密秀却成为了绝唱
The show had suffered several years of declining ratings,
维密的收视率在近几年内持续走低
that coincided with the drastic rise
这与其母公司L Brands的股价
then fall of the stock price of Victoria’s Secret parent company, L Brands.
在飙涨后又骤降的趋势一致
Here’s how the lingerie retailer,
下面会讲维密零售商
Angels and all,
维密天使和其他工作人员
rose to the top of women’s fashion,
登上女性时尚顶峰
and how its fall from grace
转而又跌落神坛一事
has created an uncertain future for the company.
是如何使得公司未来前途未卜
In 1982, L Brands owner Leslie Wexner
1982年 L Brands老板莱斯利·维克斯纳
acquired Victoria’s Secret,
以100万美元收购维密
a small retailer consisting of six stores
这个只有六家连锁店
and a catalog for $1 million.
和一份产品目录的小品牌
Wexner developed many successful retail businesses
维克斯纳在20世纪八九十年代
in the 1980s and ’90s.
发展了很多成功的零售业生意
He popularized the specialty mall retailer,
他将专业零售这一模式推广
which had tightly-focused product lines
专业零售有高度集中的产品线
and carefully-designed stores,
以及精心打造的门店
and he took those stores
他收购这些店铺
and rolled them out to malls across the country.
改造后推向全国的商场
That model really upended the department store model.
这颠覆了以往百货商店的模式
In the mid 1990s,
在90年代中期
Victoria’s Secret’s heavily-padded Miracle Bra,
维密的奇迹内衣带有厚厚的垫子
designed to create cleavage,
能挤出乳沟
was vying for market share with its competitor,
这款文胸与其竞争对手WonderBra
the WonderBra.
争夺市场份额
Only Victoria’s Secret has the Miracle Bra.
只有维密拥有奇迹内衣
Get a Miracle Bra.
买他
Victoria’s Secret doubled down on ads
维密加大广告宣传力度
with provocative TV commercials
如 挑逗性质的电视广告
and launched its first fashion show in 1995.
和1995年首次举办的维密秀
Victoria’s Secret tried to define what sexy was
维密试着定义何为性感
and what a sexy woman should look like,
何为一个性感的女人
and you can really see by the ads
你能从广告中看到
that they were pushing a very specific beauty ideal.
维密推出了一个非常具体的美人形象
That image was executed
这个形象是由L brands的
by L Brands Chief Marketing Officer Edward Razek,
首席营销官爱德华·拉扎克打造的
who was put in charge of casting models for the fashion show.
他负责为维密秀挑选模特
Throughout the 2000s,
整个00年代
Leslie Wexner sold many of his apparel brands
莱斯利售出了许多自己的服装品牌
and focused more and more on his lingerie and beauty lines.
更加注重他内衣线和美妆线的发展
This included launching PINK in 2004,
其中包括于2004年推出的
a Victoria’s Secret spinoff for teens.
维密青少年衍生剧PINK
Unlike many other retailers,
与其他零售商不同
Victoria’s Secret continued to grow
维密在08年金融危机后
after the 2008 recession.
仍持续扩张
The retailer opened more stores and sales expanded,
更多的门店 更高的销售额
and L Brands stock price rose until 2016.
L Brands的股价也保持增长趋势
That’s when you really started to see trouble
直到2016年 消费者品味开始转变
for the company as consumer tastes started to shift .
维密公司才开始意识到大事不妙
Athleisure began to dominate fashion
运动休闲成为时尚主流
and growth began to slow in Victoria’s Secret’s bra business.
维密内衣产业的增速开始放缓
This was driven in part by consumers preferring bralettes,
这一定程度上是因为消费者
bras with no underwire or padding.
更偏爱无钢圈的文胸或衬垫文胸
There was a shift in what female consumers wanted
女性消费者对内衣的需求
from their underwear and what they were willing to pay.
和她们愿意支付的价格都在改变
Many younger women didn’t wanna pay $60 anymore
许多年轻女性不再愿意支付60美元
for a padded bra that they saw on a supermodel.
来购买一件超模身上的衬垫胸罩
Many of them preferred stuff
大部分年轻女性喜欢这样的东西
like more authentic marketing,
比如说 更真实的营销
natural looks, and bras built for comfort.
更自然的穿着和更舒适的文胸
In 2016, Leslie Wexner assumed
2016年莱斯利·维克斯纳取得了
direct control of Victoria’s Secret
维密的直接控制权
He eliminated swimwear, stopped mailing out catalogs,
他不再做泳装产品 不再邮寄产品目录
and doubled down on sports bras.
而是加倍地投入在运动文胸上
By 2018, L Brands share price had fallen 50%,
2018年 L Brands的股价仍下跌50%
erasing about $14 billion in investor’s wealth.
投资者的财富蒸发了约140亿美元
Victoria’s Secret started to appear out of touch
维密品牌开始显露和
with female consumers around the same time.
当代女性消费群体偏好脱节的迹象
A major stumbling block for Victoria’s Secret
维秘在此后又遭遇极大危机
was when Ed Razek told Vogue
爱德华·拉扎克告诉Vogue杂志
that he didn’t think transgender models
他认为跨性别模特
should be cast in the fashion show.
不应该参加时装表演
He was forced to apologize for those remarks,
他被迫为此言论道歉
and a lot of people called for his resignation immediately.
很多人要求他立即离职
He actually stayed on a while after that
实际上 他还继续任职
and eventually resigned in 2019.
直至2019年才最终辞职
Victoria’s Secret’s internal culture and management
维秘的内部文化和管理
has come under scrutiny as well.
也受到了审查
Ed Razek, after he left Victoria’s Secret,
爱德华·拉扎克离开维密后
has faced allegations of harassing models and employees,
他被指控骚扰模特和员工
and Les Wexner has come under fire
莱斯利·维克斯纳也因和
for his ties to Jeffrey Epstein,
其投资经理杰弗里·艾波斯坦的关系
who was his longtime money manager.
而受到了舆论攻击
– [Narrator] Leslie Wexner has said that he cut ties
莱斯利·维克斯纳宣称他和艾伯斯坦
with Epstein more than a decade ago
在十几年前其被指控儿童色情非法买卖时
after Epstein was charged with child sex trafficking.
就已经断了联系
Independent directors on the L Brands Board
L Brands董事会的独立董事
responded to the sexual harassment allegations in a statement
在一份声明中对性骚扰的指控进行了回复
that said the company had instituted robust anti-harassment policies in recent years
称该公司近年来实施强有力的反性骚扰政策
and the company regrets any instance
并对还未实现构建一个安全 温馨
where we did not achieve this objective
相互尊重的工作场所这一目标
of a safe, welcoming, and empowering workplace.
表示抱歉
Razek told the New York Times
拉扎克告诉纽约时报
that the allegations were, quote, “categorically untrue,
按他的原话说这些指控
misconstrued, or taking out of context.”
是“绝对不真实 存在误解和断章取义的”
Consumers have a very particular idea of
维密的特有印象在消费者心中
what Victoria’s Secret is.
已经根深蒂固
It’ll be interesting to see whether a brand
一个与如此特殊营销方式相捆绑的的品牌
that’s married to such a particular type of marketing
能否成功转变自己的形象
can transform itself into anything else.
这是一个值得关注的问题
[pleasant orchestral music]
[愉快的管弦音乐]

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视频概述

“维多利亚的秘密”是美国最大的内衣零售商,昔日的内衣巨头陷入困境,那么这家风靡全球的内衣品牌从兴盛到衰落究竟经历了什么呢?

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翻译译者

iwillseeu

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视频来源

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Xe8qimmtt0

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