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如何缝制一件T恤

How to Sew a Shirt: Easy Pullover | Craftsy Sewing Projects

想在下午的时候做件可爱的上衣么?
Want to make a cute top in an afternoon?
这不难 我来教你
I’ll show you how easy it is.
嗨 我是安吉拉•沃尔夫
Hi, I’m Angela Wolf!
我想分享一些我最喜欢的缝纫技术 并用它来做一件很棒的上衣
I want to share some of my favorite sewing techniques to create a fantastic top.
我用Grainline工作室制作的Scout Tee作为模板
I’m using the Scout Tee pattern from Grainline Studio,
但你可以用任何类似的T恤模板
but you can use any similar style t-shirt pattern.
我已经用一块编织棉布剪好了我需要的模板
I’ve already cut out my pattern pieces in a woven cotton fabric.
编织棉布在缝纫的时候不会变形
A woven fabric won’t stretch out of shape when you sew.
将右侧组合在一起把每个前肩固定在后肩上
With right sides together, pin each front shoulder to the back shoulder.
然后将前后在侧边处进行缝合连接
Then pin the front to the back at each side seam.
用缝纫机 在布的边缘标记出半英寸的接缝容差
At your machine, line up the fabric edge for a half seam allowance.
把针插在距布的边缘至少八分之一英寸处
Insert the needle at least 1/8” away from the edge of the fabric,
倒缝一两下
back stitch once or twice,
然后开始缝
and stitch.
当你缝完接线处时 不要忘记倒缝
When you get to the end of the seam, don’t forget to backstitch.
为了能让你看的更清楚 我使用的是Contrast线
I’m using a contrasting thread so you can really see,
你当然可以选择更合适的线
but you’d choose a matching thread of course!
移动到侧面缝纫处并用相同的方式从头缝到尾
Move to the side seam and stitch down the side the same way.
在衣服的另一侧边重复这个过程然后就完成了缝边
Repeat this process on the other side of the garment,
接下来缝好边缘处
and then finish the seam edge.
我用缝纫机 借助包边缝线处理好了毛边处
I finished those frayed edges with an overlock stitch on the sewing machine,
但你可以使用三角针或者包缝机
but you could use a zig zag stitch or serged edge.
现在可以开始缝领口了
Now it’s time for the neckline.
你可以用你的布料来制作斜交布带
You can make your own matching bias tape out of your main fabric
或者如果你想节约时间
or if you want to save time,
可以去买一条半英寸宽的斜交布带就像我这个一样
buy 1/2″ double folded bias tape like I have here.
在我们开始之前我想告诉你们一些缝领口的小技巧
Before we get started. Here’s a quick tip for sewing the neckline.
注意不要将斜交布带(直接)拉伸超过肩膀
Be careful not to stretch the bias tape over the shoulder areas
否则会出现褶皱
or you could end up with puckers.
但你还是要把斜交布带拉伸到中间的前面和后面一点
But you do want to stretch the bias tape a little at the center front and back
以防领口处裂开
to prevent your neckline from gapping open.
在领口背面留出三英寸
Leave about 3″ free at the back of the neckline,
把斜交布带的第一层顺着领口放置然后用针固定
then Iine up the first fold on the bias tape with the neckline and pin.
就在第一条折叠线处开始缝
Stitch right in this first fold.
缝到超过肩膀的位置
Stitch over the shoulder area.
别忘了 不要把斜交布带缝在这里
Remember don’t pull the bias tape in this area.
好了 我们到达领口的曲线部分了
OK, we’re at the curve of the neckline.
边缝合 边稍微拉伸斜交布带
Start to pull the bias tape just slightly as you stitch.
当你制作另一边的时候 再一次平坦地铺放它
Once you’re at the other side, let it lay evenly once more.
倒回到肩膀处
Back up around the shoulder,
我们必须紧贴斜交布带
and we have to close the bias tape.
我现在知道最方便的去紧贴斜交布带的方法
Now here’s the neatest way I know to close bias tape.
就是像这样穿过斜交布带的末端
Cross the ends of the bias tape like this,
用大头针钉住
pin
用直线缝接这里到这里
and draw (a) straight line from here to here.
缝合对角线直至其尾端
Stitch across the diagonal line.
剪掉多余的部分
Trim off the excess
沿着折叠的地方缝线来连接斜交布带
and then finish attaching the bias tape by stitching along the fold.
注意要把这个平整地缝好
Take care to hold those seam allowance flat.
借助熨斗 越过缝线折叠斜交布带
With the help of an iron, fold the bias strip over the seam allowance,
塞到压边处和大头针下
tuck under the other pressed edge and pin.
确保覆盖住了缝线
Make sure to cover the seam allowance
和后面折叠的斜交布带
and catch the back fold of the bias tape.
用自己的方式缝好领口
Work your way around the neckline,
折叠 按压 钉住
folding, pressing and pinning.
开始制作後中部
Starting at the center back,
再一次地在斜交布带的边缘缝合
stitch one more time around the edge of the bias tape.
重复检查以确保你是不是完整地缝好了两边的斜交布带
Keep checking as you to make sure you are stitching through both side of the bias tape.
好啦!让我们来做袖子
Ok, let’s move on to the sleeves.
这是一对袖子
This is a set-in sleeve
所以我需要在添加到衣服之前准备好袖子
so I need to prepare the sleeve cap before inserting it into the garment.
在袖子的边上缝两行线
Sew two rows of basing stitches across here.
拉着线尾 聚拢袖子的前端
Pull the end of each of the threads to gather the sleeve head.
如果你有一个烫凳
If you have a tailor’s ham,
你可以用它并辅助熨斗 给你的袖子做出一个漂亮的圆润造型
you can use it to help steam press the sleeve to a nice rounded shape.
左边也是这样做好了后就把它们缝起来
With right sides together, line up the seams.
插一个大头针 与前面的缝线相匹配 在袖子适当的位置也插一个
Place a pin, match the front notches and pin the sleeve in place.
配合后面的缝线并重复
Match the back notches and do the same thing.
这个缝线应该和肩线缝合
This notch should line up with the shoulder seam.
看 我已经把袖子塞到袖口里面去了
See how I’m easing the sleeve cap into the armhole.
在边线缝合可以把袖子缝到合适的位置
Starting with the side seam, stitch the sleeve in place.
确保你只是缝了两层
Making sure you’re sewing through only the two layers.
接下来把线头剪掉
Then finish the seam allowances.
最后一步是给袖子和底部褶边
The final step is to hem the sleeves and bottom of the top.
褶边的时候 卷起边缘的二分之一英寸并且压住
At the hem, turn up the edge 1/2″ and press.
如果你有一个拱形烫木 就使用它去制作褶皱
Use a tailors clapper for a nice crisp crease if you have one.
用少量的蒸汽熨出褶皱 再用拱形烫木压住褶皱
Use a little burst of steam and hold the clapper on the crease.
围着底边一直压住做好的褶皱
Press up the hem all the way around the hemline.
现在把尾部卷进折叠处
Now tuck the end into the fold
再次压着
and press again.
这会给你一个完美的褶皱去缝
This will give you a perfectly pressed crease to stitch.
开始在恰当的位置缝住侧边接缝处和褶皱
Start at the side seam to stitch the fold in place
而且用自己的方法去做
and work your way around.
当你回到自己第一次的缝线处 在这个地方多缝几次
As you get back to your first stitches, go over couple of them,
接下来倒缝去保护线头
then backstitch to secure the thread.
在袖子上重复这个相同的卷边技巧
Repeat the same hemming technique for the sleeves
所有的都完成啦!
and you’re all finished!
谢谢观看!
Thanks for watching!
如果这个模板 布料或者更多的专业指导对你有所启发
To get this pattern, fabric or more expert instructions,
就在这个视频的右上角点击’i’
be sure to click the ‘i’ in the top-right corner of the video.

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视频概述

这个视频将会告诉你如何简单地制作一件T恤~

听录译者

萨默之光

翻译译者

Ice

审核员

joker

视频来源

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VM0lN4qvJQk

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