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教你DIY“泰诺切割器” – 译学馆
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教你DIY“泰诺切割器”

How To Make The "Styro-Slicer"

本项目我将为大家展示如何自制一个烫线泡沫切割器
For this project I’m going to show you how to make a Hot Wire Styro-Slicer that cuts
可以精确的控制泡沫形状 它可以制作出专业感觉的三维道具
styrofoam shapes with precision and control. It’ll produce professional looking 3Ds props
可以用在cosplay或者金属铸造上 还可以制造出泡沫战斗机 真正能在屋里飞行的那种
for cosplay or metal casting, as well as make foam fighter jets, that actually fly across
泡沫切割器有可调的电源配置 可以切割出任意你需要的角度
the room. The Styro-Slicer has adjustable power settings, cuts at any angle you need,
最棒的是 整个系统非常的有机 容易摆放 且不会杂乱
and the best part is, the whole system fits together ergonomically, for easy and clutter-free storage.
我们先从一个简单的实验开始本项目吧 先用一节6伏的蓄电池还有一根细铁丝
Let’s start this project with a simple experiment, using a 6 volt lantern battery and a thin piece of hanger wire.
如果我们将铁丝线绕住电池两端 你会发现它变得非常的热 基本上是瞬间的
If we wrap the ends of the wire around the battery terminals, you can see it gets incredibly hot, in just an instant.
它热到如果我们用一小块泡沫来碰它
If fact it’s so hot, that if we try touching it to a small piece of styrofoam, it slices
它会像一把烫刀切开黄油一样直接穿过
right through, like a hot knife, on butter.
这就是我们的烫线泡沫切割器的基础工作原理
That’s the basic concept of how our hot wire foam cutter is going to work, so let’s
那么 我们开始动手制作这个泡沫工厂吧 先从几根
get started building the foam factory with some 3/4” PVC tubing and a few connectors.
这个结构就构成了我们的多功能线锯 并且
These pieces will create the frame for our multi-functional wire saw, and you should
它们应该很容易买到 几乎在所有的家装店都有的卖 在喷洒用品区
be able to find all of them easily, at any home improvement store, in the sprinkler isle.
切割两条11英寸长的 另一条12英寸长
Cut two pieces of tubing 11” long, and one other piece 12”.
然后你需要的所有配件就是两个90度弯头和两个滑帽
And the only fittings you’re going to need are two 90º elbows, and two slip caps.
那么如果你打算让泡沫切割器个性化一些
Now if you’re planning to customize the colors on your Styro-Slicer, go ahead and
先给弯头和滑帽图上颜色 因为这会为后面节省步骤
paint the elbows and the slip caps now, because it will save you a step later on.
接下来我们需要的是一些8号平垫圈 还有两个8号吊环螺栓 大概1英寸到0.625英寸长
The next things we’ll be needing, are some #8 flat washers, and two #8 eye bolts, around 1-5/8” long.
将一个垫圈放到螺栓上 然后使劲将它们拧到滑帽的中心位置
Place one of the washers on the bolt, then screw them both firmly into the center of the cap.
我事先已经给它打眼了 使用的是5/32英寸的钻头 没有比这个更合适的了
I pre-drilled my hole, using a 5/32” drill bit, and it really couldn’t have worked better.
现在持续拧直到螺栓紧紧的嵌进滑帽里
Now continue screwing the eye-bolt into the cap, until it’s tight against the outside
然后再完成另外一只
washer, then do the exact same thing with the other one.
下一个步骤是在12英寸的管中央钻出一个孔 距离底部6英寸的
The next step is to make a hole in the center of the12” pipe, so mark the tubing 6”
位置 开始打眼
from the end, and begin drilling.
我们只需要在一侧有个孔 因此当钻头钻通上面的管时 就该停下了
We only want a hole in one side though, so when the drill bit punches through the top, it’s time to stop.
我钻的孔是3/8英寸宽 你可以钻任意的大小
I drilled my hole 3/8” wide, but you can really make yours any size you want, as long
只要你能让电线从中穿过就行
as you can get an electric cord to fit through it.
提到电线 我们接下来需要的是这样的
And speaking of cords, we’re going to need one of those, next.
我们真实需要的只是电线 因此无论两头是什么
All we’re really after here is the cord itself, so go ahead and chop off whatever’s
一概减掉 然后将两条电线小心的撕开
on the ends, then separate the two wires by carefully pulling them apart.
我撕出两缕电线大概有2英尺长 其实稍微有点长过需要的
I split my cord into strands about 2 feet long, which is actually a bit more than we
但这样可以为后面的连接留有一些余地
need, but it gives us a little wiggle room for when we attach it in just a second.
下面我们来露出电线里的铜芯 使用剥线钳可以
Next we’ll need to expose the bare copper wire inside, so use wire strippers to remove
从电线顶端剥去大概一英寸的塑料外皮
about an inch of the plastic coating from the ends.
将这两缕线拧在一起然后掰弯 再把底部
Then twist the strands tightly together, and bend it over, so you can twist it together
拧起来 就做成了一个金属环
at the bottom, and form a little metal loop.
小心的将这条线穿过管子上的眼 一直往里推
Carefully push the split wires through the hole in the tubing, and continue working them
直到线爬过弯头 从底部伸出来
in, until the wires snake around the corners, and pop out the other ends.
如果你可以想出如何在里面打一个结 这条电线就不会
Now if you can figure out how to tie a knot on the inside, the cable won’t be able to
轻易被拉出来了 同样也会避免电线被分开
pull back out accidentally, and it’ll prevent the wires from splitting down any further.
如果你能想出来方法就给它打个结吧 不过也不用太担心
So tie it off if you can figure out how to do it. Otherwise, don’t worry too much about it.
现在剩下的要做的就是 将电线穿过剩下的两个塑料管
All that’s left to do now, is push the individual wires through the two remaining tubes, and
最后在底部帽上拧紧
secure them to the end caps.
在滑帽的里面螺栓上加一个垫圈 然后将电线缠绕在螺栓上
Add a washer to the bolt inside the cap, then slip the wire loop over the end of the bolt
将电线推到底部
and push it down to the bottom.
再在螺栓上加一个垫圈 还有一个六角螺母 用尖嘴钳之类的工具
Add one more washer and a hex nut, then use something like a pair of needle nose pliers
把它们拧紧
to help tighten the whole assembly together.
接下来将滑帽套在管子上 尽可能的推紧
Now simply push the end caps on the tubes as tightly as you can, and just like that,
那么 电线的框架就完成了
the frame for your wire saw is finished.
这就可以直接用了 但是如果你想让它看上去更加高大上一些
You could use it just like this, but if you want to kick it up a notch, trying using a
试试Duck胶带吧 可以让它有个闪亮的颜色
bit of Duck Tape to add a splash of color.
最后一个我们烫线泡沫切割器所需要的东西就是 那根烫线了
The only thing our hot wire foam cutter needs now, is the hot wire. And for that I’ll
我们要使用一根1-1/2英寸的拉簧 以及一些不锈钢挂绳
be using a 1-1/2” extension spring, and some stainless steel hanger wire, which you’ll
你可以在店里的硬件区找到
find, in the hardware isle.
我买的是9英尺长的线卷 不到4刀 其实有点多了 而且这个不容易坏
I got a 9 ft roll for a little under $4, which is way more than I’ll ever need, and should last forever.
量一下这根线 要比框架长几英寸
Measure the wire so it’s a couple inches longer than the frame, then go ahead and snip
然后剪短 好 接下来的步骤很酷
it to size, and now here’s the cool part.
仔细观察 你会发现 这个悬挂绳有7小股绳拧在一起形成
If you look closely, you’ll notice the hanger wire is made of 7 smaller wires twisted together.
因此 如果我们把它们解开 我们会得到7根绳 超细的 不锈钢切割线
So if we unravel them, we end up with 7, super thin, stainless steel cutting wires. And plenty
相当多了
more where they came from.
现在 我们要拿一个1-1/2英寸的拉簧出来 然后将它
At this point, go ahead and get the 1-1/2” extension spring ready, by connecting it to
挂在某一个滑帽上 最简单的方法就是用钳子将挂钩
one of the eye-bolts. The easiest way to connect it is by pulling the hook open with a pair
分开 然后将它挂上 合并就行
of pliers, then looping it inside the bolt and letting go.
将电线绑上滑帽的底端 只需要将电线打成一个结
Fasten one end of the steel wire, to the bottom eye-bolt by folding the wire back over itself
然后拧上几圈就可以了
and twisting it around a few times.
然后我们把另一端穿过弹簧的底部 但是在你拧上之前
Now loop the other end through the bottom of the spring. But before you twist it off,
要确保电线是绷紧的 先拉一拉 拉紧它
pull the wire firmly, and stretch it out first.
这会使得“弹簧承载”电线的张力 确保电线
This will “spring-load” the wire with tension, which is really important for keeping
拉紧是非常重要的 它会伸缩的非常快
it tight, when it expands and contracts rapidly.
这个最后一步之后 电线切割器就完成 但也许你会注意到 这电线还有些扭曲
With that final step, the wire cutter’s done. Except you might have noticed, the wire’s still a bit wavy.
很简单 找一个螺丝 或者一个人汤匙的柄 给它来回打磨打磨
Simply take a screw, or the handle of a spoon, and slide it back and forth a few times to
就可以将这些波浪消除掉了
make the ripples disappear.
现在我们来做一个快速简单的测试 来确保连接正常
Now let’s do a quick and simple test to make sure everything got connected properly,
将电线的两端连接到蓄电池的两极上
by touching the ends of the wires, to the terminals of the lantern battery.
如果你的连接是正确的 稳定的 这条线会变烫
If you did it right and your connections are solid, the wire will heat up and slice through
切割泡沫不费吹灰之力
styrofoam, without any trouble at all.
好的 我们已经完成了切割用的利刃 现在我们来继续根据设计来完成一个
Ok now that we’ve got a wire cutting blade, let’s go ahead and build the foam cutting
泡沫切割工厂吧
factory I designed to go with it.
首先你要做的是把1/2英寸的中等密度纤维板(MDF)切成18英寸的正方形
The first thing you’re going to need is 1/2” medium density fiberboard (MDF) cut 18” square.
我们还需要一个8英尺长的2×4英寸纤维板 价格大概是2刀
We’ll also need an 8 foot 2×4”, which you can get for about $2.
我使用电锯来完成快速和干净的切割 当然你可以找到最合适的工具
I’m using a chop-saw to make quick and clean cuts, but you can use whatever tools work best for you.
无论哪种情况 你都需要先切出18英寸长一块 15英寸长的一块作为边
But in any case, you’ll need to cut the first piece 18” long. Then a 15” piece
另一个15英寸的做底 然后它的旁边是11-1/2英寸的木块
for the side. Another 15” piece for the bottom. Followed by an 11-1/2” piece for the other side.
再有一块5英寸的填到上面的空间。然后左下方放一块3-1/2英寸的木块
A 5” block fills the gap above that. Followed by a 3-1/2” block on the bottom left. Then
之后是另一块3-1/2英寸的木块在里面,右下方
another 3-1/2” block that’ll go inside, on the bottom right, a little later on.
2块4英寸切割出来后,从中等密度纤维板的正中向下标出一条10英寸的线
Now that our 2×4” is cut, mark a 10” line down the center of the MDF square, and use
然后使用木锯沿线切割,直到切开一边
something like a chop saw to follow the line from the center marking, right out the side.
一会你们就能看到这个槽是做什么用的了
You’ll see what this groove is for a little later.
好的 现在开始固定住这些木块 我要用到8个
Alright, it’s time to secure the blocks together, and for that I’m using eight,
3英寸长的木头钉 还有一个1/8英寸的钻头
3” wood screws, and an 1/8” drill bit.
先把木块摆到位置 木板的底部 然后使用这个1/8英寸
Start by lining all the blocks in position, on the bottom of the board, then use the 1/8”
钻头来在木头上钻孔 这样当你把木块拧在一起时 就不会散架了
bit to drill pilot holes in the wood. This way, the wood won’t crack when you screw it together.
这个部分由3个不同的组件构成 现在你通过观看我的组装方式
The blocks go together in 3 different segments, and you should be able to figure out how to
就应该能弄明白该如何组装它们了
attach them, by studying how I did mine.
我们进行之前 先停一下 我们要在15英寸的侧板上钻一个方洞
Before we go any further, let’s stop, and hack a square hole out of the 15” sidewall,
后面会在这里增加一个调光开关
to accommodate the dimmer switch we’ll be adding in just a minute.
我使用3/8英寸的钻头来四个角 然后将这几个眼用锯子切开
I used a 3/8” bit to drill holes in the corners, then connected the dots with a jig
切掉边缘 然后把木块敲掉
saw, to cut the sides, and pop the block out.
如果你做的没问题 让18英寸的面板朝前的话 开口会在左侧
If you did it right, your hole will be on the left side of the base, when the 18” board is facing forward.
好的 我们接下来固定工作台面
Ok let’s move onto securing the work-surface next.
我们仍然需要给这个中度密度纤维板钻眼 就像我们对框架的操作一样
We’ll need to drill pilot holes through the MDF like we did for the base frame, and
使用锪钻是个好主意 这样你就能将螺丝拧入表面以下
it’s a good idea to invest in a countersink bit, so you can get the heads of the screws to drop below the surface.
我用了10个1-1/2英寸的木螺钉 来固定面板在2×4框架上 还有2个3英寸的木螺钉
I used ten, 1-1/2” wood screws to hold the board to the 2×4’s, and two, 3” wood screws
钉入右上角区域 来加固3-1/2英寸的支撑块 连接到桌面的下侧
in the upper right area, to secure the 3-1/2” reinforcing block, to the underside of the table.
这些是我使用的测量结果 按要求仔细测量 以及加固你自己的框架
These are the measurements I used, and it’s important you take time to measure and fasten
因为这是整个大计划中的一部分 后面会讲到
yours the same way, because it’s all part of a master plan, that will come together later on.
现在为了更有趣些 我想可以用我的内嵌式的修边机
Now just for fun, I thought it would be a good idea to use my flush-mount router station
来打磨一下边角 加工成圆角
to quickly clean up the edges a bit, by rounding them out.
加上这么一点点小小的努力 我们可以看到有多大的差别
For just a little extra effort, you can see what an amazing difference it makes. And all
我使用的是1/2英寸的圆角钻头
I used was a 1/2” rounding bit.
如果你想了解我是怎么制作这个修边机的 我的另外一个视频里有
If you want to see how I made this router station, look for how to build it, in another project video.
好的 我们确认一下这些木头块在底部都合紧在一起了
Alright, let’s make sure all the wood pieces fit together snugly, on the underside, then
然后再次确认底板的螺丝已经拧紧 这很重要
double-check the base support assembly didn’t get screwed on. That’s important.
这个底板上我们还剩下一件事要做 那就是
We still have one thing left to do with the base support, and that’s to drill a 3/8”
要在中心钻一个3/8英寸的孔 距离底部5英寸的位置 就可以了 到此为止 这个箱子就完成了
hole directly in the center, and 5” from the bottom. That’s it. At this point the workstation is finished.
为了更好看一些 我决定给它喷漆成黑色 这会比较搭配
Now just for looks, I decided to spray-paint mine black, so it would match my wire saw
我的线 当然 颜色随你挑
better, but however you color yours, is completely up to you.
组装这个泡沫切割器的下一步 就是将那个切割手臂连接到底板
The next step in assembling our foam cutting factory is attaching the arm assembly, to the support base.
将烫线切割锯立起来 像一个大写的“C” 放在底板的中部
Stand the saw upright so it looks like the letter “C”, and center it in the middleof the board.
然后用一只笔穿过木板上的孔 在管子上做个标记
Now if you push a pen through the hole in the back, and mark the tubing, you can use
接下来用3/8英寸的钻头仔细的在管子上钻出一个孔来
your 3/8” drill bit to carefully cut a matching hole right through the tube.
确保不要钻到里面的烫线 注意在管子的底部垫上一块木头
Make sure you don’t cut the wires inside, and put something like a scrap piece of wood
这样可以在钻穿管子的时候不至于划坏桌面
underneath, so you don’t scratch up your table when the drill finally punches through.
然后我们来将这两个组件安装到一起 我们使用一个3/8英寸 x 3-1/2英寸的六角螺栓
Let’s fasten the two parts together next, using a 3/8” x 3-1/2” hex bolt. Two 5/16”
两个5/6英寸的薄垫圈 一个3/8英寸的翼型螺帽 两个5/16英寸的螺栓垫片 这在水管区可以找到
cut washers/ A 3/8” wing nut/ And two 5/16” tank bolt washers, which you’ll find in the plumbing section.
螺栓和垫圈要套在管子的正面 另外两个垫圈要放在背面
The bolt, and one washer, go on the forward side of the tubing, while the two tank washers go on the back
所有的零件都穿过这个支座上的孔以后
And after inserting the bolt all the way through the hole in the support stand, add one more
加上另一个垫圈和翼型螺帽 这样就能把整个拧在一起
washer and a wing nut, to clamp the system together.
翼型螺帽只需要用手拧紧就可以了 经过最后这一个工序
The wing nut simply needs to be screwed on hand-tight, and with that final addition,
你就完成了一个独立的切割工具 看上去还不赖哦 而且还有一些很酷的功能
you’ve just completed a stand-alone cutting assembly, that looks awesome, and has a lot of really cool features
切割壁设计的能够在螺栓上旋转 这样你可以任意调节
The cutting arm is designed to pivot on the bolt, so you can adjust the angle of the blade
这个刃的角度 甚至可以倒转180度
anyway you need it, and even 180 degrees the other way.
如果这还不够 你还可以拧开翼型螺帽 取出整个部件
If that’s not enough, you can release the wing-nut and slide the whole assembly out,
来徒手切割更大的泡沫块
to cut larger blocks free-handed.
现在 要让我们的泡沫切割器活动起来 还需要给它安全的通电
Now to bring our Styro-Slicer to life we just need a way to safely electrify it, and control
以及控制电量 那么 下面我们开始处理它的供电系统
the power, so let’s finish up, with the electrical system, next.
我去了五金店买到了一个600瓦的调节按钮 这样就可以按这个按钮来开关了
I went to the hardware store and got a 600 watt dimmer switch, that you can turn on or off just by pushing it.
我们还需一个12伏的稳压电源 还有10安培的保险丝 以及6英尺长的电线
We’re also going to need a 12 volt power transformer, a 10 amp fuse and another 6’ length of cord.
如果你找不到稳压电源 或者不想买上一个
Now if you have trouble finding a transformer, or simply don’t want to shell out for one,
也许你可以免费弄到一个 那就是找个旧音箱
you’ll probably be able to salvage one for free, by hacking open an old stereo and pulling
从里面拆出它的电源 我第一个原型设备就是这样做的 到现在也用的很好
one off the power supply. That’s what I did for my first prototype, and it works just as well.
按钮开关可以放到外面 用2个1英寸的木头钉固定好位置
The dimmer switch goes in position from the outside, and gets secured in place, with two 1” wood screws.
你还需要找一个外壳盖住它这样能看上去美观些 拧上去以后
You’ll need a cover plate as well to make it look nice, and when that’s screwed on,
可以换掉那个旋钮 完事后将整个箱子翻过来
replace the knob, then flip the whole workstation over.
我决定将稳压电源装在边框的一半距离位置 2个1英寸的螺钉
I decided to install my transformer about halfway down the side, and used two more 1”
就可以将它紧紧的固定在顶部
screws to secure it as tightly against the top, as I could get it.
如果你让它头冲下 就可以放下三条电线
And it helps if you position the side with the 3 wires, facing down.
那个10安培的保险丝其实不是必须的 但是这是个好习惯
The 10 amp fuse isn’t really necessary, but it’s good practice to have in place
以避免短路 你要确认这里面有保险丝 然后
just in-case of a short, so make sure it’s actually got a fuse inside, then go ahead
用买开关时附带的那个金属螺母连接上所有线路
and connect everything together, using the small wire nuts that came with the dimmer switch.
为了节省点时间 我已经把所有的东东都接好了 在你照样子完成之后
Now to save time, I went ahead and just wired everything together. And after you do the
看上去会是这样
same, it should look something like this.
可以看到 主电源线从这个接头出来 先连接到这个10安培的保险丝上
You can see the main power cord comes in from the outlet and connects to the 10 amp fuse
然后连接到这个黑线 这条线是接到开关上的
first, which then connects to the black wire on the dimmer switch next.
然后这条红线从开关上引出 连到
The red wire coming out of the dimmer switch connects to the black cord on the primary
稳压电源的主要一侧 还有另一根黑线则连接到背面通向外面的电线上
side of the transformer, and the other black cord connects to the wire running back to the outlet.
在稳压电源的侧面你可以看到两根黄色的和一根黑色的电线
Now on the secondary side of the transformer, you might have noticed two yellow wires and one black one.
这两根黄色的电线提供的是12伏的电源 黑色的电线能提供一半电压
The two yellow wires supply 12 volts, and the black wire is center-tapped for half power.
这意味着如果将它们连到一个3相开关就能给我们在0伏
This means that connecting them to a 3 position switch will give us the option to cycle the
6伏 12伏电压之间选择
system between 0 volts, 6 volts and 12 volts, on demand.
2根黄线在开关上接哪根无所谓
Now it doesn’t really matter which yellow wire you connect to the switch, as long as
总之就是挑一根焊在一边 黑色的线焊在另一边
it’s soldered to one side, with the black wire soldered to the other.
剩下的一根黄线则需要连接到烫线部件的一端接头上
The remaining yellow wire needs to be connected to the cord running to the hot wire assembly.
回来的那根线 则需要连接到3相开关的中间接头
And the return wire, connects back to the middle, of the 3 position switch.
听上去复杂 但其实你做的时候就会发现没那么难
It sounds complicated, but it’s really not that bad once you get into it.
现在两根电线都已经在背面准备好了 不会碍事
Now the two power cords are designed to feed out the back, so they don’t get in the way.
其中一根用来供电 可以插在任意的家庭电源上
One cord is for the supply power, that gets plugged into any regular power outlet. And
另一根线 提供的是整流过的直流电给切割烫线部分
the other cord, runs the regulated power to the cutter assembly.
到现在这个阶段 泡沫切割器就完成了 随时可以使用
At this point, the Styro-Slicer is done, and ready to use as soon as you are.
很简单 将切割臂放好 放置到桌面的中心
Simply push the cutting arm into place, with the wire in the center of the work surface,
打开红色旋钮 拧到6伏位置 我称之为“中等电量”
then flip the red switch to the 6 volt setting, which I call “normal power”.
打开总开关 轻轻的增加电量 准备就绪
Push the dimmer switch on, then gently crank up the power, and you’re in business.
如果一切正常 这根线会立刻变烫
If everything’s working the way it should, your wire will instantly heat up, and you
就可以开始切割泡沫啦 能切割出你能想象到的非常光滑和干净的切口
can start slicing through styrofoam right away. Making some of the smoothest, and cleanest cuts, you can imagine.
最后呢 我还加上了几个1英寸的螺钉在底板上
For one final touch, I added a couple 1” screws to the inside of the base, so we can
这样我们可以存上剩下的烫线 然后给支架上半部分装上一个闩锁
store the rest of the hanger wire, then secured a latch on the upper side of the support stand,
这样整个系统就都锁在了一起 可以方便快速的保存
so the whole system locks together, for quick and easy storage.
顺便说一句 这里还有一个备用电池线 这样可以将整个系统
By the way, there’s also a backup battery cable in there, that will connect the system
连接上太阳能 或者用电池供电 这使得整个系统变得可移动 不受限制
to solar, or battery power, which makes the whole system portable, and off the grid.
现在你能知道如何成长为一名出色的泡沫制品制作者了吧 只要有这个
Well now you know how to rise up, and become a master styrofoam maker, by building yourself
自制的泡沫切割器
a homemade Styro-Slicer.
它可以为你提供精准的切割控制 可以用来制作自己设计的任何道具 比如迷你大师之剑这样的
That gives you precision control for cutting custom props like a Mini Master Sword. Or
或者切割出一些更加吸引人的玩意 比如3D战斗机纵队 这些都在其它的视频里
slicing out something more intricate, like a squadron of 3D fighter jets. Look for how to make these in another video.
好啦 这集就到这 如果你喜欢这个项目 也许你还会喜欢我的一些其它项目
Well that’s it for now. If you liked this project, perhaps you’ll like some of my others.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2n_EbRzZ0g

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