先生们 来做个小测试吧 哪种体型最吸引人？
Quick quiz, gentlemen, what’s the most attractive body type?
第一种 三角形体型
Body type number one, the triangle.
第二种 倒三角体型
Body type number two, the inverted triangle.
第三种 长方形型
Body type number three, the rectangle.
第四种 椭圆形体型
Body type number four, the oval.
第五种 梯形体型
Body type number five, the trapezoid.
现在 在接下来的几分钟里我将揭晓答案
Now, I’m going to reveal the answer here in the next couple of minutes,
但是无论答案是什么
but no matter what the answer is,
你需要根据现在你自己特定的体型着装
you’ve got a particular body type today and you’ve got to dress for.
好的 先生们 这就是本视频要讲的
Well, gentlemen, that’s what this video is all about,
如何根据自己的体型 做出最好的搭配
how you can dress the best for your particular body type.
现在 先生们 在你了解这五种体型的搭配之前
Now before you can get how to dress for each of five body types, gentlemen.
我想先列出三项基本原则
I wanna lay out three ground rules.
原则一 根据你现有的体型来着装
Rule number one, dress for the body that you have today.
这或许很好如果在两个月或是一年之后
So, that may be great in two months or in a year
你将减去你想减的脂肪或者增加你的肌肉力量
that you will have lost all that weight you want to lose or may be gain that muscle
到那时你会拥有你的理想体型
and you’ll have the ideal body at that time.
但是 现在你不能裸奔
But, you can’t walk around naked right now,
先生们 你们应该要根据现在的体型来着装
gentlemen, you have to dress for the body you have.
所以 不论是面试或是近期你要参加的重要活动
So, that interview, that big event that you’ve got coming up,
亦或你计划的约会
or that date that you want to go in,
你都要根据现在的体型搭配着装
you’ve still got to dress for the body that you have.
这就要提一下我的赞助商“Anson皮带”了
This is a great segue into my sponsor, Anson Belt.
其中一个令我喜爱Anson的原因
So, one of the things I love about Anson
就是我提到过的可更换性
besides the interchangeability. I’ve talked about
即他们的带扣与皮带是可以替换的
how their buckles and all their belts were interchangeable.
你可以买三个带扣 三条皮带
So, you can buy three buckles, three belts,
这样你就有九种搭配了
you’ve got nine options here,
这就是我喜欢的地方
but this is what I love.
好了 正在增重
Okay, you’re gaining
或减肥的朋友们
or losing weight, guys,
这些皮带在1/4英寸范围内是可调节的
within a quarter of an inch, these belts adjust.
顺便一提 其实你可以将皮带从这里拆开
So and by the way, you can actually separate this right here.
所以 如果你
So, let’s say you lose
减了几磅 你不用去买条新皮带
a couple of pounds, you don’t have to go buy a new belt,
你可以把皮带剪短些
you can actually cut this
它还是会很适身的
off and it will still fit you perfectly.
现在 如果你在增重觉得
Now, if you’re gaining weight, going to be a
系腰带有点困难 我确定你可以 你知道的
little bit more difficult, I’m sure you can, you know.
这是一家父子公司
It’s a father-son business.
我把描述的链接给他们
I’m going to link to them the description.
我可以肯定如果你给他们发封邮件
I’m sure if you send them an e-mail,
他们会给你一个皮带的订单 写着“圣诞老人送你的”
they will give you a deal on a strap just say Antonio sent you.
这个圣诞节 如果你在挑选礼物
This Christmas season, if you’re looking for a great gift,
看看这些选择
look at all these options,
其实 你能搭配出一些不错的组合
you know, you can put together some pretty cool combinations,
通过插入不同的几个带扣
through in a few different buckles.
这是家很棒的公司
It’s a great company,
伙计们 它们是美国制造 就像我说的父子店
guys and they’re US-based, like I said father-son
去购买吧
combo. Go check them out.
现在 让我们来说说第二点
Now, let’s go into point number two.
那么
So,
第二个原则是
foundation point number two is
你的体型决定了你想穿的
that your body shape will determine the type of clothing
衣服款式
that you want to wear.
不要迷失在潮流中
Don’t fall into trends.
前段时间流行紧身皮裤
So, there’s a trend awhile back about skinny tights,
皮领 皮套装 这类衣服
skinny lapels, basically skinny suits,all these stuff.
如果你的体型是三角形体型
If you are a triangle-shaped guy,
或者如果你的体型是椭圆型的 这样只会让你
if you are an oval-shaped guy, that is just going to
看起来像个小丑
make you look like a clown.
这并没有什么如果它哪里有适合你
It doesn’t matter if it somewhat fit you,
但它不适合
it’s not going to
你的身形
fit your body type.
比例很关键 先生们
Proportion is key here, gentlemen.
另外 你们还要知道
And so, you’ve got to understand
根据你的体型
that for your body type there are going
可以找到更适合你的单品
to be items that are just going to work better for you.
原则三是寻找
Foundation point number three is to seek the
标准 在你在挑衣服时
norm. When you’re wearing clothing,
你要去做什么 无论你是什么身形
what you want to do, no matter what your body type
如果你只想让自己看起来更得体
is is you want to basically have it better balance you
你可以参考
so that you can go towards the
你的社交圈中的常见体型
norm body type in your society.
这就回到我们最初的问题了
And, thatgoes back to the question at the very beginning,
这个问题是 哪种体型最吸引人？
the answer is what body type is most attractive?
这要看你是在哪生活的
Well, it depends on where you live and what
那里的普遍体型是什么
is the norm body type.
印度人的体型 德国人的体型
So, the body type in India, the body type
意大利人的体型
in Germany, the body type in Italy,
美国人的体型或者是墨西哥人的体型
the body type in the United States or in Mexico it
都是不一样的
changes it depends.
在美国 人们往往更有肌肉
Here in the United States, people are going to be more muscular.
这是
That�s
我们要搭配穿衣的支架
what we put on the pedestal,
很多人去健身房
a lot of guys go to the gym.
对于印度人 他们的体型
India, they’re going to be
略微瘦一些
a bit thinner.
对于日本人 他们的体型也要瘦一些
Japan, they’re going to be a bit thinner,
所以以上这种他们的体型可能是矩形
so over there maybe the rectangle.
而在美国 人的体型更偏向于梯形
In the United States it’s going to be morethan trapezoid.
有趣的是尽管这是因为肥胖日渐普遍的原因
Interesting though is because as obesity becomes more common,
现在这种体型实际上
it becomes something viewed as
已经变得更有魅力 信不信由你
actually more attractive believe it or not.
重点是无论你什么时候是什么体型
The point is is you don’t want to whenever
如果你有真正锻炼自己
you’re if you are really built yourself up,
是个爱健身的人 不要去穿
you’re a bodybuilder don’t put on
带有很多肩垫的夹克
a jacket that has a lot of shoulder pads.
它基本上能让你看起来像个
It’s basically will make you look like a
卡通人的形象 而那并不是我们想看到的
cartoon and that’s not what we’re lookingfor.
我们将要做的是参考
What we’re looking to do is go towards
你所处的社会的潮流
the norm in your society.
那么 先生们 我将要说的第一种身体类型
So, the first body type I’m going to talk
是三角形体型
about, gentlemen, is the triangular body type.
这种体型可能在青年期 但它也可能
This can happen early on in life, it can also
以后出现的更多
happen a lot later.
也可能随着体重的增加而出现
It could happen with weight gain,
在这个身形我们主要可以到看臀部
but basically what we see is the hips
和腹部开始变宽
and the stomach area starts to widen out.
肩膀会自然而然地倾斜
The shoulders were naturally may be sloped
或者是由于你缺乏锻炼
or they simply you don’t work out
不注意这个身体部位 所以这些部位开始
you don’t take care of that area and so, they start
倾斜 你开始变得弯腰驼背
to slope down, you start to hunch over a bit.
这就是为什么你得
This is something that you’ve got to build
锻炼肩膀
up the shoulders.
如果你的肩膀练起来了
If you can build up the shoulders,
你的身材一下子
all of a sudden this is going to
就会变得更像
transform this body type more
方形 而方型比三角型
into a square and the square is much more masculine than
更有肌肉感三角型的问题 重申一下
a triangle.The issue with the triangle, again, it goes
在于肩膀
back to the shoulders.
如果肩膀没练起来 就会看起来
Weak shoulders are viewed
不够强壮 如果你想要穿
as not masculine so you want to throw
运动服 夹克衫 休闲西装上衣
on sports jacket, thrown on jackets wear casual suits,
或是紧身运动上衣 记得搭配
throw on blazers, but also bring in
斜纹夹克或皮夹克
denim jackets, bring in other a leatherjacket.
要一直牢记为什么
Always think how I kind of in a sense
练这块区域
build up this area,
是为了穿有肩章 可能还是
can I work casual button up shirt that have epaulettes that may be
双口袋设计或是一点点刺绣点缀的休闲扣子衬衫
have the double pockets that have a little bit of embroidery design.
所以 对于你试图增重的胸部以及
So, the chest area
肩膀的区域来说
the shoulder area, you’re looking to add a bit
穿毛衣也能
of weight to it, even sweaters can come
有所帮助
in and help out with this.
而对于臀部来说 你要做的是
Now, when it comes to the hips, what you want
不要穿宽松而下垂的下装
to do, don’t wear anything baggy in thehips.
你应该穿围绕
So, you’re going to want to wear things
这块的衣服
closer in and around here.
你也应该
You also are going to want
确保鞋子的大小合适
to make sure the proportion of your
合适 谁都不想穿过大的衣服
shoes. You don’t want to go with anythingsuper large.
你穿的是
Everything down here is as large
你适合的大小
as you want it to be,
而你想看起来像穿着精致的皮鞋
so you want to wear possibly more delicate dress shoes, things
一些看起来不会过小
that aren’t going to look smaller even
即使你的尺码是12尺
though maybe you’ve got size 12 feet.
接下来我想讲的是倒三角体形
The next body type I want to talk about is the inverted triangle.
这是健身的人的常见体形
This is the bodybuilder,
是那些
this is the guy
老待在健身房并且练就了结实的上半身的人的体形
that spends time in the gym and has really built up his upper body.
现在
Now,
许多人会说 这种体形也有问题
the problem with this, many people are going to say,
当然我对这种体形又爱又恨
well, I would love that body and love
试着从裁缝的角度想想
his problems. Well, try going to a tailor,
我可以告诉你 这是最难
I can tell you this is one of the most difficult
量体裁衣的体形之一 更别提用小东西来装饰
bodies to tailor a clothing to and a lot
这会让
of the stuff he puts on, it actually makes his
上身看起来更大
upper body look even bigger and
相应的下身就显得不合比例
his lower body therefore becomes disproportional and
这是我们应该想要避免的
this is what we want to avoid.
所以 这种体形的人
So, the guy with this build, he wants to build
应该加强下半身的锻炼
up his lower body.
他要做的是
He’s going to do this
把重点放在穿双能让脚看起来大些
by focusing on shoes that make his feet look
的鞋子上
a little bit bigger.
所以 他会想看看靴子
So, he wants to look at boots,
或许看看纹理鞋
he wants to look at maybe textured
羊皮鞋
shoes or suede.
他想看下区别
He wants to look at contrast,
看下或许会有不一样
so something maybe that’s got a contrasting
皮革
leather to it,
又或是某样会把注意力吸引到鞋子上的东西
something that draws a little bit more attention to his footwear.
好吧 接着我们往上走看一下牛仔裤
Okay. Then, we�re moving up here, let�slook at jeans.
不要穿紧身牛仔裤 而是穿
Avoid skinny jeans, maybe go
而穿直筒修身的
for a straight cut.
不一定要穿得很宽松
You don’t need to go for a loose cut,
但如果你想要
but you want to give something
让这块增加一点重量
that gives a little bit of extra weight inhere.
你在挑选正装时
When you’re looking at suits, make
确保不要有很多垫料的外套
sure you avoid jackets that have a lot ofpadding.
你要知道 挑选一件好的外套 特别是
Search out jackets especially, you
那些产自
know, there are certain ones may be coming
意大利或是按照用户
out of Italy or that you can get custom-made
不用垫料的要求定制的
which are going to have no padding in here.
这样的目的是对于这块区域来说
The idea is you’ve already got everything
万事俱备而你想要表现得
you need up here and you want to come off
就只是一个
as simply a guy that looks like he’s in
体态良好的人 而不是
shape not a guy that, you know,
是个身材不成比例
comes off as this disproportionate, it looks like he’s
看起来一吹即倒的人
going to fall over, you know,
这就是因为下半身重量不够
just because he has no weight down here in the lower body.
再次重申
So, again,
我们想做的是通过平衡下身比例来避免类似于
we’re trying to avoid the cartoonish look by making your proportions in your lower
卡通人物的形象
body more balanced.
现在 下一种体形是方形
Now, the next body type is the rectangle body
对很多人来说 这是一种绝佳的体形
type. For many guys this is going to be a great body type to have,
但是 如果它
but if it starts
变得极度长方形 也就是瘦长型的身体
to be an extreme rectangle where it’s a thin lanky individual,
就会变得特别困难
it becomes a lot more
所以 就需要你增加一些结构
difficult. So, this is where you want to addtexture.
现在 如果你是标准身材 我是5’9”
Now, if you’ve got a normal build, I’mrelatively 5’9″.
什么？
What?
身高一米七 165磅
170, 165 lbs, I
我可以告诉你 对于我来说很好买衣服的
can tell you clothing is relatively easy tofind for me.
但是 如果我是6’3″ 一米八的身高
But, if I was 6’3″, 180 lbs,
那么
I would, you know,
搭配衣服就会特别困难
have that much leaner profile and it becomes much harder to find clothing.
他不会想要穿特别瘦的衣服
He doesn’t want to be wearing really
从而显得他极瘦
thin clothing that makes him look extremely thin
他会看上去营养不良
and like he’s malnourished here.
简单来说 他正在寻找一种可以
Simplyhe’s looking for things that are going to
使他增重或是增加一些质地
add some weight and add some texture.
所以 对他来说 不想其他多数的体型
So, for him, unlike many of the other body
他想要打破那个线
types, he wants to break up that line,
他没有必要追求单色
so he doesn’t want to necessarily go for monochromatic
他想要一件特别的夹克
looks. He wants to go for an odd jacket
和一条奇特的长裤
with an odd pair of trousers and what do I mean
我的意思是什么呢？我是说他们不是同一材质的
by that? I mean they’re not made from thesame fabric.
你可以穿上牛仔裤 你可以
You can go with jeans, you could
搭配一件运动夹克
go with a sports jacket.
对于大多数小伙来说 这简直棒极了
That’s a greatlook for a lot of guys.
或者 如果他想要穿一件汗衫
Or if he’s going to go for a shirt,
他可以入手一件能够显出体格的衬衫
he can go with one that has a little bit of build
比如 有两个口袋
maybe the double pockets,
一些有一点对比的衣服 顶部
something that has a little bit of a contrast between the top
跟底部
and the bottom.
这是可以的 如果我们
That’s okay if we focus
注重他的身体中段
in on his mid-section a bit because he’s
因为他太瘦了 这会使他看起来不那么瘦
so thin, it’s actually going to make him maybe not look so thin,
他会使
he’s going to keep
人们把注意力放在他的身体中心
the eye right there at the center.
重点是 我们正在寻找平衡
The pointis is we’re looking for balance, we’re
我们倾向于让他身形稍微变宽一点
looking to kind of widen him out a
让他看起来穿的更正式
bit and make him look more like the norm.
下一个我想要说的体型
The next body type I want to discuss
是椭圆体型 我们要做两个
is the oval body type and we’re looking to do two
事情 我们要延伸椭圆
things here. We’re looking to stretch
并且增加边缘
out the oval and we’re looking to add edges.
那么 让我们分别讨论一下
So, let me talk about each.
通过延伸椭圆 我的意思是使他看起来
By stretchingout the oval, I mean let’s make it look
更高 更简洁
taller let’s make it look leaner.
我们可以用单色来实现这个目的
We cando that with monochromatic looks.
一个自然的单色套装在这里
A suit natural monochromatic look here,
你有一件合适的夹克
you’ve got a matching jacket with a matching pair
和一件同样材质的长裤
of trousers made from the same fabric,
这就可以是人们的眼睛从上往下看
it allows the eyes to go up and down.
当一个
When a
身材魁梧的人穿上它 他看起来会超级赞
big man wears this, he almost always looksgreat.
现在 你需要避免的就是
Now, what you want to avoid is a high
一件高对比度的套装 所以
contrast outfits. So,
一件浅色衬衫搭配深色长裤
light-colored shirts with the dark pair of trousers, that’s a
这使得我们的注意力会放在你的上腹部
no-no where our attention and is focused into your midsection,
仅仅会让你看起来更胖
it just makes you look wider.
现在 我们讨论
Now, when I’m when I’m talking
边界 讨论这里的夹克
about the edges, talking about here on the jacket
或许 讨论
perhaps. I’m talking
鞋子 可以引起一些注意力
about shoes that draw a little bit of attention to themselves.
这些
These
就是你的头部到脚部区域
are your top and bottom areas.
这件夹克 这里 肩膀进行修饰
The jacketright here, the shoulders it’s going to
而是在这里形成了线条
build them it’s going to draw a
这是个非常好的现象
line right here that’s a great thing.
你所不想的
What you don’t
是在那个区域 非常的柔软
want is to have really soft in and aroundthat area.
现在 关于鞋子
Now, with the shoes,
你想让我们注意到你的鞋子
you want our attention to focus in on the shoes.
所以 你可以穿
So, you can wear
一双高靴 不仅可以增高
a great pair of boots not only will those give you a bit of height,
而且还可以
but they could draw
引起我们的注意
our attention. So,
所以 你可以穿粗革皮鞋 穿有对比度
you can go with something with the broguing, something with the contrast
的皮革或者仿麂皮的鞋子
leather, something with a bit of suede in it,
个性的鞋子 因为我们要
something with style because we’re going
将注意力放在上面 我们要说
to focus in on there and we’re going to say,
哇哦 这个家伙很个性 他既大气又
wow, this guy has got style, he’s large
有领导风范
and in charge.
接下来是梯形体型
The next body type is a trapezoid body type.
易搭配体型之一
One of the easier body types to dress
除非他非常高 非常矮
unless he’s extremely tall, extremely short, or
或者体型接近于倒三角
closer to an inverted triangle.
但是 通常这种人他要尝试的大多数衣服
But, thisguy in general much of the clothing he’s
都很适合 而且漂亮
going to try on is going to fit him prettygood.
问题就在这里
And that’s where the problem is at
他不用调整很多衣服就很合适
is he doesn’t get many things adjusted tofit him.
他穿的都是现成的
He tries things off the rack, he’s
就像是 他会说 噢这件很漂亮
like, oh, this pretty good.
我就这样穿 所以他会变的懒惰
I’m going towear it as is, so he gets lazy.
这种体型需要裁缝
This body type needs to take everything has
把每件衣服都裁剪地完美
to a tailor to get it perfectly adjusted.
没有借口
No excuses here,
这就是易搭配体型之一的穿搭 但是我
this is one of the easiest body types to dress and I but I see so
发现还有很多朋友还是一塌糊涂
many guys still screwing it up
因为他们正穿着不适合自己的衣服
because they’re wearing clothing that doesn’t fit them.
他们没有真正的按照我的
They don’t actually go out there follow
简单的风格金字塔做 你关注的是
my simple style pyramid where you focus in
是否合身
on the fit,
你关注的是基础功能基于你想要传达什么样的信息 你关注的
you focus in on the function basically what’s the message you want to send, you
是服装的材质
focus in on the fabric.
买在你的承受能力之内最好的
You buy the best youcan afford.
好了 朋友们如果你们想要更多
All right, gentlemen, so if you want more,
的内容 就去查看我们的帮助文章
go check out the support article.
在文章里
In the support
我详细介绍了每种体型
article, I go over each of the body types
及其更多的细节 比在这个
in a lot more detail than I went over them
视频里详细得多
in this video.
那么 我会在评论里看到你们
And, let me know in the comments down
所补充的 以及
below what would you have added, what
我所遗漏的
did I miss,
你们属于哪种体型 那么 你们有哪些技巧
what type of body what body type do you have and what are your tips and
或者方法 针对不同的体型穿搭
tricks for dressing for that body type.
最后 朋友们 去看看Anson皮带
Finally, gentlemen go check out Anson Belt
选择适合你的皮带
and Buckle. And take these buckles right
带上所有的不同种皮带
here and take all these different straps and you
你会得到一个意想不到的组合
get amazing combinations.
就像我说的 如果你正在减肥
Like I said if you’re losing weight,
你会有很好的选择
great options for you because
因为你不必外出买一个新的皮带
you don’t have to go out and buy a new belt.
我喜欢它 因为它适合大多数
I love it because it can fit pretty much any
这里的人和每种体型 种类丰富
man out there any body type just a great deal,
真是一家极棒的美国父子公司
great father-son business here in the United
那么 就讲这么多 保重
States.And, that’s it, guys. Take care. I’ll
我们下个视频再见
see you in the next video.