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时尚的力量

How fashion helps us express who we are -- and what we stand for | Kaustav Dey

在我10岁左右的一天
I was around 10, when one day,
我发现了一个父亲放旧物的盒子
I discovered a box of my father’s old things.
在一堆他的大学课本下面
In it, under a bunch of his college textbooks,
有一条黑色的灯芯绒喇叭裤
was a pair of black corduroy bell-bottom pants.
这条裤子看起来很可怕——发霉 被蛀虫咬了
These pants were awful, musty and moth-eaten.
但我却不可救药地爱上了它
And of course, I fell in love with them.
我从没看到过像它一样的东西
I’d never seen anything like them.
直到有一天
Until that day,
我所知和所穿的衣物都是我的校服
all I’d ever known and worn was my school uniform,
其实 我对此充满感激之情
which, in fact, I was pretty grateful for,
因为从很小的时候
because from quite a young age,
我就意识到了自己有些与众不同
I’d realized I was somewhat different.
我没有一点儿我这个年纪的男孩该有的样子
I’d never been one of the boys my age,
运动很差 可能永远是个娇气的小男孩
terrible at sports, possibly the unmanliest little boy ever.
(笑声)
(Laughter)
我没少被欺负
I was bullied quite a bit.
所以 我想要“活下去” 必须隐身
And so I figured that to survive, I would be invisible,
而校服帮助我隐藏在人群中 看起来没有区别
and the uniform helped me to seem no different from any other child.
(笑声)
(Laughter)
嗯 几乎是的
Well, almost.
我每天祷告:
This became my daily prayer:
“上帝 请让我跟其他人一样吧”
“God, please make me just like everybody else.”
我想这直接传到了上帝的语音信箱
I think this went straight to God’s voicemail though.
(笑声)
(Laughter)
最后 很明显的是
And eventually, it became pretty clear
我没有成为那个
that I was not growing up to be the son
我父亲总是期望的儿子
that my father always wanted.
对不起 爸爸
Sorry, Dad.
可是 我并不打算改头换面
No, I was not going to magically change.
随着时光流逝 我越来越确定
And over time, I grew less and less sure
我到底想要什么 因此
that I actually wanted to.
当那条黑色
Therefore, the day those black
灯芯绒喇叭裤进入我的生活的那天
corduroy bell-bottom pants came into my life,
神奇的事发生了
something happened.
我看到的不是裤子 而是机会
I didn’t see pants, I saw opportunity.
就在第二天 我不得不穿着它
The very next day, I had to wear them
去上学
to school come what may.
就在我穿上 那条可怕的裤子
And once I pulled on those god-awful pants
将它系紧的时候
and belted them tight,
几乎是瞬间 我产生了一种只能被称为“狂妄”的情绪
almost instantly, I developed what can only be called a swagger.
(笑声)
(Laughter)
一路到学校
All the way to school,
然后一路回来
and then all the way back
因为我马上就被送回家了——
because I was sent home at once.
(笑声)
(Laughter)
我变成了一个棕色的小摇滚明星
I transformed into a little brown rock star.
(笑声)
(Laughter)
最终我不再在乎那些我不能改变的事
I finally didn’t care anymore that I could not conform.
那天 我突然想庆祝这一举动
That day, I was suddenly celebrating it.
那天 相比于隐身
That day, instead of being invisible,
我更愿意正视他人的眼光 仅通过穿与众不同的衣物
I chose to be looked at, just by wearing something different.
那天 我发现了穿着的力量
That day, I discovered the power of what we wear.
那天 我发现了时尚的力量
That day, I discovered the power of fashion,
并从此深深地爱上了它
and I’ve been in love with it ever since.
对于我们来说 时尚可以交流差异
Fashion can communicate our differences to the world for us.
用这个简单的事实
And with this simple act of truth,
我意识到了 差异——
I realized that these differences–
不再是我们的耻辱
they stopped being our shame.
而是我们表达的载体
They became our expressions,
我们独一无二身份的表达
expressions of our very unique identities.
我们应该表达自己
And we should express ourselves,
穿自己想穿的
wear what we want.
最坏的情况会是什么?
What’s the worst that could happen?
时尚警察会因为你穿过季的衣服而找上你吗?
The fashion police are going to get you
for being so last season?
(笑声)
(Laughter)
Yeah. [laught]
嗯 是的 除非时尚警察意味着一些完全不同的东西
Well, unless the fashion police meant something entirely different.
2012年10月 诺贝尔奖获得者马拉拉 从塔利班极端分子的魔爪中幸存了下来 然而
Nobel Prize laureate Malala survived Taliban extremists in October 2012.
2017年10月 她却遭到了截然不同的敌视
However, in October 2017, she faced a different enemy,
网民轮番恶意攻击
when online trolls viciously attacked the photograph
20岁的她在那天穿牛仔裤的照片
that showed the 20-year-old wearing jeans that day.
她从评论中看到了敌意
The comments, the hatred she received,
从“脱下头巾才多久?” 到
ranged from” How long before the scarf comes off?”
to, and I quote,
“这就是为何之前子弹直接瞄准她的头的原因”
“That’s the reason the bullet directly targeted her head
如今
a long time ago.”
在像伦敦 米兰 纽约这些地方
Now, when most of us decide to wear a pair of jeans
当我们中的大部分人选择穿牛仔裤时
someplace like New York, London, Milan, Paris,
我们可能会认为这是一种特权
we possibly don’t stop to think that it’s a privilege.
因为在其他地方穿了会有不好的结果
Something that somewhere else can have consequences,
因为有一天我们会被剥夺这项权利
something that can one day be taken away from us.
我的祖母是一个热衷于
My grandmother was a woman
打扮的女性
who took extraordinary pleasure in dressing up.
她的时尚就是穿着多彩
Her fashion was colorful.
她最喜欢穿的颜色
And the color she loved to wear so much
可能是唯一
was possibly the only thing
能表达她的
that was truly about her,
这也使她受到行政监察 因为在印度
she had agency over, because like most other
她那一代的大多数女性
women of her generation in India,
从不被允许
she’d never been allowed to exist
违反约定俗成的习俗和传统
beyond what was dictatedby custom and tradition.
她在17岁出嫁
She’d been married at 17,
走过了65年的婚姻
and after 65 years of marriage,
在我祖父突然去世的那天
when my grandfather died suddenly one day,
她无法忍受失去的悲痛
her loss was unbearable.
但是那天
But that day,
她也准备丢掉其他东西
she was going to lose something else as well,
曾经她的一大乐趣是:穿彩色的衣服
the one joy she had: to wear color.
在印度 根据传统
In India, according to custom,
当信仰印度教的女性成为寡妇
when a Hindu woman becomes a widow,
从丈夫去世的那天起
all she’s allowed to wear is white
都被要求穿白色的衣服
from the day of the death of her husband.
没人强制我祖母穿白色衣服 然而
No one made my grandmother wear white. However,
据她所知 每个失去丈夫的女人
every woman she’d knownwho had outlived her husband,
包括她的妈妈 都这样做了
including her mother, had done it.
这种苦恼使人内心如此挣扎
This oppression was so internalized,
如此根深蒂固 她拒绝做出选择
so deep-rooted, that she herself refused a choice.
在那年她也去世了
She passed away this year,
并且直到去世的那天 她仍然只穿白色衣服
and until the day she died, she continued to wear only white.
在快乐的童年时期 我和她合过一张影
I have a photograph with herfrom earlier, happier times.
在这张照片中 你不能完全看清她的穿着
In it, you can’t really seewhat she’s wearing —
这个照片是黑白的 然而
the photo is in black and white. However,
从照片中她笑的样子来看
from the way she’s smiling in it,
你就知道她穿的是彩色的衣服
you just know she’s wearing color.
这也是时尚能够做到的
This is also what fashion can do.
它让我们充满乐趣
It has the power to fill us with joy,
一种自由地选择
the joy of freedom to choose
我们的穿着
for ourselves how we want to look,
我们的生活方式的乐趣——一种值得争取的自由
how we want to live — a freedom worth fighting for.
为自由而战斗 用各种方式抗议
And fighting for freedom, protest,comes in many forms.
像我祖母一样的寡妇在印度有成千上万个
Widows in India like my grandmother,thousands of them,
她们住在一个叫维伦达文的城市
live in a city called Vrindavan.
所以 几个世纪以来那一直是一片白色的海洋
And so, it’s been a seaof white for centuries. However,
直至2013年
only as recently as 2013,
维伦达文的寡妇们开始去庆祝胡里节
the widows of Vrindavanhave started to celebrate Holi,
关于颜色的印度节日
the Indian festival of color,
她们曾被禁止参加该节日
which they are prohibitedfrom participating in.
在三月的一天
On this one day in March,
一些女性用节日里的传统彩粉
these women take the traditional colored powder of the festival
去互相抛洒
and color each other.
随着一把把的粉末抛向空中
With every handful of the powderthey throw into the air,
她们的白色莎丽服渐渐变成彩色
their white saris slowly startto suffuse with color.
她们不停地撒 直到完全覆盖上了
And they don’t stop untilthey’re completely covered
对她们来说是禁忌的斑斓的彩虹
in every hue of the rainbowthat’s forbidden to them.
这些颜色会在第二天被洗掉 然而
The color washes off the next day, however,
那一刻
for that moment in time,
是她们美丽的“破坏”
it’s their beautiful disruption.
这种“破坏” 任何不循规蹈矩的行为
This disruption, any kind of dissonance,
都可以是我们在对抗压抑的战争中丢掉的第一个桎梏
can be the first gauntlet we throw down in a battle against oppression.
因此时尚——它能够给我们创造视觉上的破坏
And fashion — it can create visual disruption for us —
——真的
on us, literally.
伟大的时尚革命家们 即时尚设计师们
Lessons of defiancehave always been taught
一直在教我们反抗的意义
by fashion’s great revolutionaries: its designers.
让·保罗·高缇耶教会我们:女性可以成为王者
Jean Paul Gaultier taught usthat women can be kings.
桑姆·布郎尼——他教会我们:男人可以穿高跟鞋
Thom Browne — he taught us that men can wear heels.
亚历山大·麦昆的1999年的春季秀场
And Alexander McQueen,in his spring 1999 show,
中央秀台上有两个巨大的机器手臂
had two giant robotic armsin the middle of his runway.
当模特
And as the model,
莎洛姆·哈罗开始在它们之间旋转时
Shalom Harlow began to spin in between them,
那两个巨大的手臂——
these two giant arms —
首先悄悄地 紧接着猛烈地
furtively at first and then furiously,
开始将彩色喷到她的衣服上 麦昆
began to spray color onto her. McQueen,
在他自杀之前
thus, before he took his own life,
教会了我们:我们的身体是一块帆布
taught us that this body of ours is a canvas,
一块我们可以自由绘制的帆布
a canvas we get to paint however we want.
曾有一个爱时尚的人
Somebody who loved this world of fashion
他叫卡拉·努希
was Karar Nushi.
是一名来自伊拉克的学生兼演员
He was a student and actor from Iraq.
他爱穿充满生气 别具一格的衣服 然而
He loved his vibrant, eclectic clothes. However,
他很快收到了由外表引起的死亡恐吓
he soon started receivingdeath threats for how he looked.
他不理不睬
He remained unfazed.
感觉良好 直到2017年7月
He remained fabulous, until July 2017,
卡拉被发现死在巴格达的闹市街头
when Karar was discovered dead on a busy street in Baghdad.
死前他被绑架
He’d been kidnapped.
被虐待
He’d been tortured.
目击者称他的身体上有许多处伤口
And eyewitnesses say that his bodyshowed multiple wounds.
很多刺伤
Stab wounds.
在2016年5月 在距离白沙瓦两千英里的地方
Two thousand miles away in Peshawar,
巴基斯坦跨性别活动家阿莉莎被发现身中多枪
Pakistani transgender activist Alishawas shot multiple times in May 2016.
她被带往医院
She was taken to the hospital,
但因为她穿着女性的衣服
but because she dressedin women’s clothing,
不管是男性病房还是女性病房都拒绝她进入
she was refused access to either the men’s or the women’s wards.
我们选择穿的衣服有时真的能影响我们的生死
What we choose to wear can sometimes be literally life and death.
即使死后 有时我们也不可以选择
And even in death,we sometimes don’t get to choose.
阿莉莎去世的那天是作为一个男人埋葬的
Alisha died that day and then was buried as a man.
这是一个怎样的世界?
What kind of world is this? Well,
对我们的身体和穿着的
it’s one in whichit’s natural to be afraid,
监视和暴力
to be frightened of this surveillance,
感到害怕和恐惧反而是自然的
this violence against our bodiesand what we wear on them. However,
然而 更大的恐惧是一旦我们让步
the greater fearis that once we surrender,
迎合 开始一个接着一个地放弃
blend in and begin to disappearone after the other,
这种错误的一致会看起来更正常
the more normal this falseconformity will look,
对压抑的震惊感会更少
the less shockingthis oppression will feel.
对于我们正在成长的孩子来说
For the children we are raising,
今日之陋习就会变成明日之常态
the injustice of today could become the ordinary of tomorrow.
他们会习惯这种常态 他们也许也会
They’ll get used to this, and they, too,
将不一样的东西视作肮脏的
might begin to see anything different as dirty,
可恨的 应该被灭绝的
something to be hated, something to be extinguished,
像灯一般一个接着一个地被熄灭
like lights to be put out, one by one,
直到黑暗变成了生活的主旋律 然而
until darkness becomes a way of life. However,
如果今天是我
if I today,
明天是你 以后是更多的人
then you tomorrow, maybe even more of us someday,
如果我们在做自己这方面捍卫自己的权利
if we embrace our right to look like ourselves,
那么在矫枉过正的世界里
then in the world that’s beenviolently whitewashed,
我们会变成推动前行的彩色的星星之火
we will become the pinpricksof color pushing through,
就像那些在维伦达文的寡妇们
much like those widows of Vrindavan.
有这么多个“我们”
How then, with so many of us,
枪的瞄准器
will the crosshairs of a gun
能够挑出卡拉 马拉拉 阿莉莎吗?
be able to pick out Karar, Malala, Alisha?
他们能杀掉我们所有人吗?
Can they kill us all?
现在是挺胸而出和坚持到底的时刻
The time is now to stand up, to stand out.
众志成城
Where sameness is safeness,
只需要简简单单改变我们的穿着
with something as simple as what we wear,
我们可以吸引每一个目光
we can draw every eye to ourselves
去告诉他们世界的差异
to say that there are differences in this world,
差异才是常态
and there always will be.
习惯它吧
Get used to it.
我们不用只言片语便能表达
And this we can say without a single word.
时尚可以给我们一种表达异议的语言能力
Fashion can give usa language for dissent.
它可以给我们勇气
It can give us courage.
时尚可以让我们将勇气穿到袖子上
Fashion can let us literally wearour courage on our sleeves.
所以穿自己想穿的吧
So wear it.
像穿铠甲一样
Wear it like armor.
穿着代表态度
Wear it because it matters.
而你的态度不可或缺
And wear it because you matter.
谢谢
Thank you.
(掌声)
(Applause)

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视频概述

在全球范围内,个性可能是一种犯罪,而服装可能是一种抗议形式。在演讲中,Kaustav Dey探讨了时尚如何给我们一种非语言的异议,并鼓励我们拥抱真实的自我。

听录译者

收集自网络

翻译译者

YUNA

审核员

审核员 D

视频来源

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6k8YBJ5sgko

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