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手艺:意大利传统手工定制皮鞋

How Bespoke Italian Leather Shoes Are Made

我觉得这种热情
I think the passion,
是成就一些事情所必需的
you really need it to create something on a particular level.
你得把全身心
You need to give everything
都投入进去 我想这就是不同寻常之处
from yourself in there and that’s the difference I think.
定制对我意味着
Bespoke means for me,
真正与客户讨论他的需求
that I discuss really with the client what he wants.
顾客想法不同 需要的原料和模型就不同
You have ideas here, you can see differentmaterials, different models.
倾听是非常重要的一环
It’s very important to listen. Nowadays,
但如今很多人却不再倾听
many people don’t listen anymore.
脚模是顾客脚的复制
The last is really the copy of your foot
用来作为制鞋的模具
on which we create the shoe.
但是一双脚模不会凭白产生
But nobody shows you how to make a last, really,
所以你必须不断尝试
so you have to train it by yourself,
自己去悟出来到底怎么制作
and to get the feeling by yourself, how you should do it.
可以量出客户脚的精确尺寸
You have certain measurements from the foot,
但是每位客户的感觉往往是不同的
but the feeling of the client is always different.
我喜爱这些皮料独特的的触感
I love using leather because you get thisparticular different touches.
我最欣赏这家制革厂用的瑞士小牛皮
What I appreciate so much from this tannery is they use a Swiss calf.
或许是因为这些动物生长在寒冷的环境中
Maybe it’s because it’s cold and these animals live
在高海拔的山上
on a very high level in the mountains.
往往是一头牛 但是每头牛都不尽相同
It’s always a cow, but cows are also different.
我们的鞋子
I think it’s something which you can wear
可以穿很久 而且
for a long time and the leather
穿的次数越多 皮革就越有灵性
the more you wear it, it really gets more life I think.
我会先根据客户的双脚画出图纸
I will draw the model from the client.
然后把图誊到纸模上
This drawing, I will translate then on a flat paper model,
把皮革放在上面
which I put on the leather, then
然后缝合
we sew it together.
从这里起 就真正开始做鞋了
From there, we start creating really the shoe.
制鞋手艺 乃至汇聚于
I think the handcraft and this concentration
佛罗伦萨的所有工艺
of different craftmanships in Florence is
都来源于美第奇家族
really coming up from the Medici family.
不论是珠宝匠 画家
If it’s a jeweler or if it’s a painter,
还是雕塑家 美第奇家族总是试图
or a sculpture maker, they’ve always tried to
招揽镇子上最好的工匠
get the best artisans in town.
要把鞋面与鞋底钉在一起
The upper will be nailed and pulled over the last.
我会先用亚麻线缝合
I will start sewing with the linen thread,
这种线用蜡做过防水处理
which is made waterproofed with wax.
每缝一针 都有两条线
When you stitch you have two threads which go
进入同一个针眼 扯线的时候
into the same hole and as you pull,
蜡会受热融化 封住针眼
the wax goes hot, it will seal together,
鞋子就不会漏水了
so the water can’t go through.
这是道独特而古老的工序
This is a very particular and very old process.
制鞋界的女性非常稀少
It’s very rare to be a woman in this shoemaking world.
我刚入行时 每个人都说
When I started, everybody looked at me and said,
这位女士坚持不了
this lady is going to close down in
一年
a year.
女人不可能在男人的领域干得出色 现在
A woman in a man’s job, it’s not going towork. Now,
他们却都以我为豪 我还在继续干这行
they all proud in this area that I’mstill here.
我们放进去一块木板作支撑
We fill in the wooden shank and back support
这个位置是脚弓
because that’s the part under the curve of
不能弯曲
your foot, which will not be bent
所以这里必须硬挺
so it has to be supportive and stiff.
前端用软木填充
The front part we will fill with cork.
用来提供缓冲
This is to give you a cushion effect,
人会不断弯曲这里 所以要保证
as you bend it the whole time it’s important to have
柔软
it soft.
盖上鞋底
We apply the sole.
用胶水粘牢 之后划一道沟
We will glue it on and afterwards make a channel.
沿着这条沟 将鞋边与鞋面缝合
We will stitch the welt and the leather sole together
这样就有了
through the channel so it gets more
鞋的大致模样 看起来也离成品近了一步
the shape of a shoe and you see it more as a finished product.
在作坊工作时 会感到特别平静
When we work normally in the workshop, it’s a very calm feeling.
有一种入定的状态
We are in a meditation,
因为对工作太投入了
because you are so concentrated on what you do.
能感觉到在一瞬间 能量沉淀下来
You can feel that all of a sudden, the energy comes down.
每个人都沉浸在自己的那一步
Everybody’s concentrated on his particular step.
最后一大步是安装鞋跟
The last big step to put on is the heel,
鞋跟由多层皮革制成
which will be built out of single layers of leather.
层层粘合 然后钉上
We will glue them and nail them on,
削成一定的形状
and then cut them in shape.
最后 用玻璃来刮擦打磨
At the end, we pass some glass, sanding it.
用烧热的铁来烫
And then burn it with hot irons,
让所有的空隙完全密闭
so all the pores are going to be completely closed up.
最终步骤是上光
The last step is to shine the whole shoe.
然后拔出脚模
And then we can pull out the last
鞋子就可以穿了
and then the client can wear it.
如果要计算时间的话
If you count the hours,
大概三周才能制作一双皮鞋
we would work around three weeks on one pair of shoes.
当一双鞋子完工后 顾客试穿的时候
When I see a finished shoe and the client really tries it on,
那一刻往往
it’s always the moment
真实而轻松 前提是鞋子非常合脚
of reality and relief, if it really fits well.
顾客感到很快乐时
When this person is really happy,
他们的眼神是不言而喻的
you can just see in their eyes without explaining
这是最棒的感觉
that it’s the best feeling ever.
一双鞋子不仅是物品
I think a shoe is more than an object.
它还能真实反映人的个性
A shoe really reflects the person who is wearing it.
这从他们选的皮料 颜色 以及
The leather they choose, the color they choose,
穿鞋方式可以看出来
and how they wear it.
因为它已远不止当初的那双鞋
Because it’s not just the pair in the beginning,
更添了几分与你相伴的岁月
it’s THE pair over many, many years.

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译制信息
视频概述

意大利佛罗伦萨的鞋匠,在一代代的传承中,坚持着纯手工定制。从皮料,鞋胚,到缝合,抛光,为你展示顶级定制皮鞋的前世今生。

听录译者

收集自网络

翻译译者

凌辰

审核员

审核员 W

视频来源

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITiyKmYnL-0

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