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迪奥连衣裙|从草图到 T 台

How a Dior Dress Is Made, From Sketches to the Runway | Sketch to Dress | Vogue

When you work at the collection,
做系列时装的准备工作时
it’s very important for me to look to the past.
回顾过去对我来说是非常重要的
If you know very well your past,
如果你非常了解你的过去
you can understand more your present
你就可以更好理解你的现在
and probably with creativity
或许未来 凭借创造力
you can work to propose in your future.
你可以提出新创意
That is the job of creative people.
这就是创意人员的工作
[soft melodic music]
[柔和的旋律音乐]
灵感
For this season I would like to discover
这一季中 我想更多地了解
much more about the figure that is less well known than Christian Dior
一个名气比Christian Dior小很多的人物
that is was a sister Catherine Dior.
也就是Christian Dior的妹妹Catherine Dior
She was a really brave woman because during
她是位真正勇敢的女性
the Second War she was part of the Resistant,
二战时还是抵抗军的一员
and when she come back she started again to work in what was her passion,
战后返回家乡后 她又一次在花园和花朵中开始
in her garden and her flowers.
从事她曾经所热爱的工作
[soft melodic music]
[舒缓的旋律音乐]
In the mood board, at the center
在情绪板中央
there is Catherine Dior inside her garden in Callian
有张Catherine Dior在她位于卡利昂的花园里的照片
where Christian Dior and Catherine went after the mother died
Christian Dior和Catherine在母亲过世后
and they start there to plant rose
就到那里种植玫瑰花
and to start their business in rose and flower.
并开始她们的玫瑰花与鲜花生意
I think that Catherine was a really feminist woman.
我认为Catherine 是个真正的女权主义者
Feminist means that you choose for yourself,
女权主义意味着你为自己做选择
that you can realize yourself like you desire.
你可以实现你渴望的自我
That is important message for all the women.
这对所有女性来说都是重要教益
To believe in yourself and to think about your future.
相信自己 并思考你的未来
[rhythmic music]
[有节奏的音乐]
So the idea was to explore the garden
我们的想法是 以当代的方式
but in contemporary way
探索这个花园
and especially in this moment where we are involved
尤其是在这个 我们参与到世界上
in what’s happening in our world.
正在发生的事情中的时刻
I think sustainability is something really important now,
我认为可持续性现在真的是很重要的事
but also I think that everybody has to make our work
而且我认为 每个人都应该让我们的工作
a little part for sustainability in the future.
成为未来可持续发展的一部分
And that’s to be clothes also with DNA of the brand.
那就是要让衣服也带有品牌的DNA
If you are a couture brand,
如果你是一个时装品牌
when you create something the idea is to create something that is timeless
创作的时候 你就想创造出一些永不过时的东西
so you don’t use only for one season
这样就不会使其过季被弃
but you want to maintain your wardrobe for a long time.
而是长期保存 历久弥新
[sewing machine]
[缝纫机的声音]
生产
In my team we have about 40 people,
我的团队大约有40个人
we are first meeting with the team of Maria Grazia,
我们是第一次与Maria Grazia团队会面
we talk about the drawings and exactly what she wants
我们讨论了图纸和她究竟想要什么效果
and after, I am going back to explain to my team every dress
之后 我要回去向我的团队解释每件衣服
and to organize all the drawings with the modelist.
并与设计师一起整理所有的图纸
[paper crinkling]
[纸张打褶声]
My name is Pascal Coppin.
我是Pascal Coppin
I’ve worked at Dior for 13 years
作为成衣女装车间的总工程师
as the chief engineer of the ready-to-wear women’s workshop.
我已经在迪奥工作13年了
The theme is flowers and leaves.
这个主题是花朵和叶子
From the time that we receive the sketch of this model
从我们收到一件样衣草图
and the embroidery to after we’ve made it in the studio
以及刺绣图案 直到我们在工作室将其制作完成
it takes about three to four weeks.
大约需要三到四周的时间
[sewing machine]
[缝纫机的声音]
Normally for this kind of embroidery we use tool
这种刺绣我们通常使用工具
and it is less difficult.
难度较小
But we would like for this collection to really maintain the lightness
但我们希望这个系列能真正保持轻盈
because that for me is another value.
因为这于我而言非常重要
Because embroidering on top of mesh is completely different
又因为在网面上刺绣是完全不同的
nothing is the same.
没有什么是相同的
[soft music]
[柔和的音乐]
– The fishnet is a very elastic fabric,
-网眼布是非常有弹性的布料
both lengthwise and crosswise.
且网眼纵横交错
Unfortunately , we have to cut
不幸的是 我们必须
based on how the fishnet falls into place.
根据网眼的位置来切割
Otherwise we are all doomed.
否则就都废了
If there is a chain of flowers, it has to be straight.
如果有一串花朵 它就必须是直的
For this specific look there has been
对于这种特殊的外观
a really precise placement of the embroideries
刺绣位置必须非常精确
that must not overlap.
不能重叠
You see for example on the bust the sun and the leaves
比如这个上半身的太阳和叶子
must not overlap.
是不能交叠在一起的
So we have qualified personnel to do it.
所以我们有专业人员来做这项工作
The end of a collection is the most beautiful moment
一个系列结束时是最美丽的
because we have an overall view of the collection.
因为我们看到了它的全貌
The idea is that she is in some way mother Catherine Dior.
人们认为在某种程度上 这一系列成就了Catherine Dior
We choose the material that are more natural
我们选择更天然的材料
like silk selvage, straw
比如丝绸布边 稻草
to give this idea of a woman gardener.
来营造出一种女园丁的氛围感
[sewing machine]
[缝纫机的声音]
– I’m Nicolas from Coloco team, landscape architects.
-我是来自Coloco团队的Nicolas 是名景观设计师
And we have been doing the landscape design of the sets.
我们一直在做布景的景观设计
[soft music]
[轻柔的音乐]
We have 160 tree,
我们有160棵树
everyone say yeah we want to do something for climate change,
每个人都说要为气候变化做点什么
but everyone say well, what can we do really?
但实际上 我们能做什么呢?
We say plant, plant and plant.
我们提出种植 种植还是种植
Plant your garden.
培植花园
Plant your city.
绿化城市
Plant your planet and we’ll be a lot better.
绿化地球 这些会让我们好很多
That’s the message of Maria Grazia.
这是来自于Maria Grazia的启示
Let’s act.
行动起来吧
– The set for that collection is important project for me.
-这个系列的布景对我来说很重要
Probably the most important part of the work that they did
因为这是与Coloco的一次合作
for the collection because it is a collaboration with Coloco.
所以他们为这个系列所做的工作是最重要的
I asked them to make this collaboration with Dior
我请求他们与迪奥合作
because all the plants that they selected for the show
因为我们真的很喜欢他们为这个布景所选择的植物
we are really happy that after they use for the project
在将其使用完之后
then they planting the plants in a different part of Paris.
紧接着他们就会把这些种在巴黎的其他地区
[soft music]
[柔和的音乐]
– Hello, I’m Mona and I’m backstage at Dior.
-大家好 我是Mona 在迪奥做后台工作
This is my look for the show.
这是我的造型
The first time I saw it I was really happy actually
第一次看到它时 我真的很高兴
cause I wished for a long dress.
因为我想要一条长裙
Like I just walk in there and she was like
就好像我刚一进去 她就说
that’s it you’re done.
就这样 就是你了
Then I was like okay, that was fast.
然后我觉得很不错 就这么快
I knew she knew that it was made for me in a kind of way
从某种程度上说 我知道她明白这裙子是为我量身定做的
and I appreciate that a lot.
我不胜感激
– Hi, my name is Peter Philips and I’m backstage at Dior.
-嗨 我是Peter Philips 我在迪奥做后台工作
I’m the creative director for makeup.
我是化妆品创意总监
So at Dior today we’re going for a look
今天在迪奥我们要塑造一个
which is actually inspired by Maria Grazia’s vision.
灵感来自Maria Grazia构想的造型
So I use only four, five products.
所以 我只使用四 五种产品
To show it off you can do an actual catwalk look
为了展示该造型 可以用一种非常简约的方式
in a very minimalistic way.
来完成一个真正的T台造型
[soft music]
[轻柔的音乐]
– So this is my outfit.
-这是我的全套装束
I gotta go in the line up and the show’s going to start in some minutes.
我要去排队 再过几分钟走秀就要开始了
So, cut.
好 结束
[rhythmic music]
[有节奏的音乐]
– I’m very happy because it was a very intense project
-我非常高兴 因为这是个非常富有激情的项目
and all the collaboration was very inspiring
而且所有合作都非常激励人
but at the same time very intense
但同时又很紧张
and all the time you are worried that everything won’t work
我总是担心不会成功
but now it’s finished so I feel very well.
不过 现在结束了 我感觉非常棒
[laughing]
[笑声]
Bye.
再见
[soft music]
[柔和的音乐]

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视频概述

你知道迪奥这个牌子吗?他们的服装设计理念、制作过程以及最后的走上T台都无不展示着他们的灵感来源,对此,你想做进一步的了解吗?相信此视频会给予你所想要的答案。

听录译者

收集自网络

翻译译者

毛毛虫

审核员

审核员HSX

视频来源

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFdi95YTDys

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