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高跟鞋的历史

High heels: A surprising history | BBC Ideas

The first high heel ever was a piece of military footwear.
高跟鞋最初是军用鞋
《BBC观点》
高跟鞋的起源
People in West Asia had been tremendous horse riders
西亚人曾是杰出的骑手
and that’s how they fought
他们骑马打仗
they rode in the saddle
骑在马鞍上
and they to stood up to shoot their bows
需要站起来射箭
and that meant you need a heel
因此高跟鞋的鞋跟
to keep you in the stirrups, nice and stable.
可以让他们在马镫上保持平衡
The Shah of Persia, he’s called Abbas the First,
波斯国王 阿巴斯一世
he sends off some emissaries into Europe
他曾向欧洲派遣了一些使臣
and they turn up wearing high heels and everyone goes…
他们穿着高跟鞋
看到的人都“呜!!~”
…so suddenly this military clothing becomes adopted in Europe.
所以很快欧洲军队也开始流行穿高跟鞋
男性通过穿高跟鞋效仿波斯人的力量
伊丽莎白女王穿高跟鞋来显现男子气概
But it’s a little bit later on, in the early 1600s
这之后不久 到了17世纪早期
that we start to see heels coming in
高跟鞋逐渐在军队外流行开来
and it starts with the blokes it’s for being manly and butch.
起初是一些人想变得阳刚有男子气概
But what happens quite quickly is women start to emulate male fashion
不久女性开始模仿男性时尚
and part of that is they start wearing men’ shoes.
这其中包括穿男性的鞋子
The real big moment is
而最流行的时候
when Louis XIV of France starts wearing heels
是在法国路易十四穿高跟鞋时
because he’s quite a small man
这是因为他身材矮小
and he famously has red heels
他的红色高跟特别有名
that Louboutin mirrored later on in the 20th Century
20世纪末设计师鲁布托就模仿过
Suddenly everyone at the court is wearing heels
很快宫廷的人开始穿高跟鞋
Heels go through a bit of an up and down history
高跟鞋的发展历史有些起伏
and the 1700s, philosophers are talking about the rationalism of men,
在18世纪 哲学家盛行谈论男性理性主义
by contrast, women are said to be emotional and sentimental
相比之下 女人被认为过于感性
and can’t be trusted to do important things like think.
不会理性地思考
And so men are being advised to wear rational shoes
因此认为男性应该穿得体的鞋子
and high heels are not rational.
而高跟鞋不够得体
The 1860s, this is when women’ heels start to become sexy.
1860年代 女性的鞋跟开始变得性感
We have photography, a brand new technology,
摄影作为一种新兴技术出现
and quite often in pornography of this period,
在这一时期的色情作品中
you’re seeing women still wearing their boots,
你会看到女人仍穿着高跟鞋
their shoes with the heels on, so it becomes erotic.
因此高跟鞋逐渐被赋予性欲的内涵
这种观念因二战期间穿高跟鞋的海报美女得到发展
1950年代 细高跟发明
Hollywood had a huge influence on the rise of heels
好莱坞对高跟鞋成为性感的象征
as the symbol of sexiness
有很大影响
In the 1950s, Marilyn Monroe famously quoted,
在1950年代 玛丽莲·梦露有一句名言
I can’t think of the exact words but she said you know…
虽然这不很确切 但作为女性代表 她的确说过
…she was speaking on behalf of women.
“我们欠发明高跟鞋的人太多”
For Monroe, who was about glamour and beauty and sexiness,
梦露是光鲜 美丽和性感的化身
she felt that was an asset
她认为高跟鞋是一种资产
高跟鞋的力量
研究表明高跟鞋可以让人更有魅力
People can tell whether women are wearing high heels
人们不看脚就能判断
without actually seeing their feet.
女性是否穿着高跟鞋
so it is that posture, change in the gait.
因为步态使仪态发生了改变
But a more recent study has shown that
但近期研究显示
actually it’s changing the shape of spine
高跟鞋改变了脊柱的形状
that is actually the attractive thing.
这才是吸引人的地方
高跟鞋如何影响健康?
We looked at all the research on high heels
我们查阅了所有关于高跟鞋的研究
and they are not healthy
发现穿高跟鞋不利于健康
there was increased risk of musculoskeletal conditions, bunions and pain.
它会加大骨骼肌和拇指患病风险 引起疼痛
鞋跟越高 身体越用不自然的姿态维持重心
这会显著增加背痛的几率
高跟鞋会被淘汰吗?
名人仍然很喜欢很高的鞋跟
但在2016年 英国首次有很多女性更愿意买运动鞋
I think they’re too iconic and too much a part of aesthetics and imagery.
我认为它极具标志性 是美学 意象
and history and power and sex
历史 权力和性的一部分
to ever go away
永不消失
and I think they’ll always be there.
高跟鞋会一直存在
I’d rather go through quite a lot of pain and wear them
我宁愿穿着高跟鞋忍受疼痛
and look nice, and suffer for it, I think.
让我看起来更美 我可以忍受
I’m crazy about fashion, I think we all are.
我对时尚很狂热 我认为我们都一样
And I think any smart woman would go on wearing them,
我认为每一个聪明的女人都会穿高跟鞋
irrespective of what the consequences are.
而不管后果如何
Thanks for watching.
谢谢观看
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视频概述

高跟鞋有趣的历史

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视频来源

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzSaV7ewI6w

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