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从历史中走出的锦衣华服 – 译学馆
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从历史中走出的锦衣华服

Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination Gallery Views—The Met Cloisters

大都会博物馆修道院分馆
神圣的衣装融合天主教风格的时尚设计
画廊导览旁白 安德鲁·博尔顿
策展人 温迪·余
服装研究院
大都会修道院艺术馆使用了
The Met Cloisters was based on
法国几座修道院的建筑结构
particular cloisters in France primarily,
但艺术馆内也有花园和主题画廊
but it also involves gardens and also thematic galleries.
从罗马式画廊进入修道院
You enter into The Cloisters through the Romanesque Gallery.
这里摆放的所有服装展品
All of the garments that we’ve selected
都与展览馆内的
for the exhibition relate directly to either the
各种建筑风格和类型相得益彰
architecture or the functions of those particular spaces.
从罗马式画廊步入圣·吉扬回廊
From the Romanesque Gallery, you enter the Saint-Guilhem Cloister
我们能看到两套服装展品
in which we have two examples
是华伦天奴罗马系列服装
of Valentino’s Rome-inspired collection—
彰显典雅又庄重的罗马建筑风格
both secular and also sacred architecture of Rome,
服装细节参照了罗马圆形大剧场
the Colosseum in particular.
这件披风布满了
And it’s a cape that is appliquéd
由黑色天鹅绒编织出的罗马拱门图案
with a series of black-velvet Romanesque arches,
在圣·吉扬回廊中象征罗马拱门
which reflect the Romanesque arches withinthe Saint-Guilhem Cloister.
随后步入丰蒂杜埃尼亚教堂
And then you enter the Fuentidueña Chapel,
这里展出天主教七圣礼的相关展品
where we’re focusing on the seven sacraments of the Catholic Church,
尤其是结婚 洗礼和圣餐仪式
particularly marriage, baptism, and communion.
我认为这个展厅最具代表的服装
I think one of the most iconic pieces in that space
是巴黎世家的一片式婚纱
is Balenciaga’s one-seam wedding dress.
它于1967年制作完成
That was created in 1967.
传言该婚纱由一匹布一次性缝合而成
It’s believed to have been made from one length of fabric with one seam.
它实际上是由两匹布料三次缝纫而成
It’s actually made from two lengths of fabric with three shaping seams.
但婚纱设计上依然参照了
But it also relates to the garments worn by
由一匹布制成的
Jesus at the Crucifixion,
耶稣受难时身上穿的服装
which were made from one length of fabric.
所以这件服装展品完美地
so it’s a nice connection to
与这里的耶稣受难像相呼应
one of the main crucifixes in that space.
从教堂进入库夏回廊
From the chapel, you enter into the Cuxa Cloister,
回廊在布局上彰显出修道院的核心灵魂
which is really, in terms of the layout, the heart and soul of The Cloisters.
在这处回廊中的展品
And within this particular space, we’re focusing on designers
设计灵感都来自于不同的修道院
who’ve been inspired by the various monastic orders—
方济会 多明尼加人 西多会的宗教服饰
Franciscan, Dominican, Cistercian.
一些早期展品是克莱尔·麦卡德尔设计的套装
Some of the earlier examples are a suite of dresses designed by Claire McArdle,
被称为“修道士连衣裙”
that was called the monastic dress,
都是些系腰的基础款裙装
which was basically a dress that was tied at the waist.
克莱尔的设计风格深受格蕾夫人和维奥内的影响
And Claire was very much inspired by Madame Grès and Vionnet.
回廊里还有一些服装展品
And there’ll be a few examples of garments
是大都会收藏的格蕾夫人
that are in The Met’s collection by Madame Grès
在60世纪晚期70世纪早期设计的服装
from the late sixties and early seventies.
设计灵感来源于
And that were inspired really by
西多会合唱团穿的广袖长袍
the large sleeves of Cistercian choir robes.
从库夏回廊步入早期哥特式大厅
From the Cuxa Cloister, you go into the Early Gothic Hall,
本展区是设计师从彩色玻璃获得灵感的服装
which is focusing on designers who’ve been inspired by stained glass:
例如让·保罗·高提耶设计的这条裙子
Jean-Paul Gaultier, who created a dress that was inspired
以福格的著名画作《处女和小孩》为原型
by Fouquet’s famous painting of the Virgin and Child,
零碎的布料像是彩色的玻璃窗
which he fractured to look like a stained-glass window.
接着离开早期哥特式大厅
And from the Early Gothic Hall,
沿着楼梯下去 到达哥特式教堂
you go down the stairs into the Gothic Chapel,
这里的服装展品主要体现了
in which we have garments that are primarily inspired by
1980年代英国哥特式亚文化群风格
the British Gothic subculture of the 1980s,
采用了特定的装饰 搭配色调显然是黑色
and the particular tropes associated with that, obviously, the use of the color black.
从这走进玻璃画廊
And from there, you enter the Glass Gallery.
在玻璃画廊里
And in the Glass Gallery,
服装展品与修道院花园中的植物相融合
we are showing garments that relate to the plantings of the gardens of The Cloisters,
展现出中世纪花圃的风情
directly inspired by Medieval plantings.
设计师们运用了
There we’re focusing on designers
具有基督教象征意义的花朵与水果
who’ve used particular flowers and fruits that have a Christian symbolism,
比如小麦
such as wheat,
它在圣餐里意味着基督的身体
which is representative of the body of Christ within the Eucharist
在《最后的晚餐》里代表庆典
and the commemoration of the Last Supper.
这款华伦天奴设计的裙子
One dress is by Valentino;
将金丝银线和雉鸡毛融入刺绣中
that’s beautifully embroidered with gold thread, silver thread and pheasant feathers
别具一格地还原了
to create this very stylized version
克拉纳赫的画作《亚当和夏娃》
of Cranach’s painting of Adam and Eve.
从玻璃画廊步入藏宝阁
And then from the Glass Gallery, you enter the Treasury.
这里珍藏了中世纪时期的艺术杰作
And in the Treasury are masterworks of medieval art.
这些珍贵文物是仪式时经常被用到的
Precious objects often used with the mass—
比如圣物箱以及圣餐杯
reliquaries as well as chalices,
还有像十字褡这样的服装
but also garments such as chasubles
在这个展厅我们展出的依然是
And within that space we’ve selected pieces that, again,
与艺术品有关的服饰
relate to some of the artworks there.
有一件肖恩·林尼为亚历山大·麦克奎恩设计的
We have an example by Shaun Leane for Alexander McQueen.
银制荆棘花冠
A silver crown of thorns that
属于麦克奎恩“但丁”系列藏品
was used in McQueen’s”Dante” collection,
灵感来自但丁的《神曲·地狱篇》
based on Dante’s Inferno.
在博帕德展厅展出了三顶帽子
And in the Boppard Room, we have three hats
设计师是菲利普·崔西
that were created by Philip Treacy,
灵感来源于圣母玛利亚的头巾
based on the Madonna headdress
并借鉴了女性成年礼的冕冠
and the idea of the crowning of the Virgin,
它是用镀金的稻草编织而成
made out of straw, that have been touched with gold gilt.
独角兽挂毯画廊
One of the most frequented galleries
是修道院艺术馆最受游客欢迎的展厅之一
in The Met Cloisters is the Unicorn Tapestries Gallery,
展厅中展出的裙子
and in that space we have a dress
由美国设计师汤姆·布朗设计
by the American designer Thom Browne
裙子整体由雪纺丝带绣制而成
with a unicorn embroidered into the dress,
上面有独角兽的纹样
which is entirely made out of chiffon ribbons.
汤姆在裙子背面加了两条红色丝带
And on the back, Thom’s created two red ribbons that
对应后面墙上一幅挂毯中的独角兽血迹
relate to the blood on the back of the unicorn in one of the tapestries.
独角兽画廊紧连着九英雄挂毯画廊
Then in the Nine Heroes Tapestry room, which is adjacent to the Unicorn galleries,
这里有大都会博物馆最初收集的
are some of the earliest tapestries in The Metropolitan Museum’s collection
中世纪早期的藏品
from the early Middle Ages.
其中囊括了格蕾·格林设计的
And within that section we have used garments by Craig Green,
以圣衣为灵感来源
inspired by a stole
但使用伊斯兰教祈祷垫制成的服装
but made out of Islamic prayer mats,
这里的服装均以十字军东征为主题
so those particular garments relate to the idea of the Crusades.
博物馆里还陈列了更为繁复的服装展品
Some of the more complex pieces are on display in The Met Cloisters,
推荐大家亲身去体验一下
so I hope that it’s a journey people will make.

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从历史中走出的锦衣华服

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视频来源

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