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18世纪女性的穿衣流程 – 译学馆
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18世纪女性的穿衣流程

Getting dressed in the 18th century

衬裙是一种紧贴肌肤亚麻制长裙
The shift was the undergarment worn next to the skin, made from linen.
可吸汗 可洗涤
It was washable and protected the clothes
并且能够保护肌肤
from bodily moisture and the body from
免受粗制衣料刺激
possibly harsh textiles being worn.
衬裙并不是让人观赏的
It was not meant to be seen.
并且不穿内裤
No knickers were worn.
制作过膝袜的面料有羊毛 棉 丝绸
Over-the-knee stockings madefrom wool cotton silk or a mixture of
或是由机器或手工织制的这三种材质的混合面料
these yarns were machine or hand knitted.
过膝袜通常会在脚踝处加上花边图案装饰
They were often decorated at the ankle with a woven design known as clocks.
再用丝带袜带将过膝袜箍绑在膝盖上方
Ribbon garters were tied just above theknee.
但是在散步或是跳舞时
However for walking or dancing
通常会将袜带绑在膝盖下方
the garters were often tied below the knee
这样过膝袜滑落就会止于袜带位置
and the stocking rolled down over them
以防意外发生
to secure everything in place.
胸襟衬裙为白色亚麻布料并且及膝
The Dickey petticoat is a knee-length white linin
穿着衬裙可以保暖并且有稳重感
petticoat worn for warmth and modesty.
束腰表层是亚麻料 内层是鲸鱼骨条
Stays were made from layers of linen and boned with strips of baleen.
有些束腰外观朴素 有些则在正面缝上丝绣装饰
Some were left plain and others faced with decorative silk fabric.
束腰束形身体 使身形符合18世纪的主流审美
They altered the body to the characteristic 18th century shape
挺直流畅的背 窄细的圆腰 挺翘的胸
of upright flat back, narrow conical waist and raised bosom.
口袋穿着在身体两侧紧贴大腿
Pocket bags were worn at the hip and carried
并用亚麻线绑于腰部
around the waist on the linen cord.
侧面开口 并且与裙子相贴
Side openings and the skirts allowed access to them.
口袋有无花样款或以刺绣装饰的款式
They were made from plain or decorated fabric
又或是如视频中一样
embroidered or as in this example
用花样补丁装饰
made from a patchwork of pieced fabrics.
但是钱包将会丢落
It was possible to lose your pockets however
如果结松了
if the ties came undone.
Lucy丢了钱袋
Lucy locket lost her pocket,
Kitty捡到钱袋
Kitty Fischer found it,
里面分文没有
not a penny was there in it,
只有一根缎带
only a ribbon round it.
穿着裙撑或臀垫用来翘臀
Pannier or a hip pad were worn to
展示裙子并能突出窄腰
lift and display the skirts and to emphasize the small waist.
臀垫是一个大长卷物体 两边细
The hip pad was a large roll tapering
绑于腰部
at the ends and tied around the waist.
臀垫里可能填充各种材质 从羊毛到软树皮都有
It may have been padded with anything from wool to cork
至少还要再穿上一件全长亚麻长裙
At least one full-length linen petticoatwas also worn.
在冬季 可能还要再穿上一件
In the winter another petticoat wadded with wool and
羊毛制或是棉质衬裙保暖
quilted for warmth may have been worn.
白天佩戴亚麻或丝质的方巾或三角巾
During the day a linen or silk kerchief
被穿在在胸前以保暖
or fichu was worn over the bosom for warmth,
增添稳重感并遮阳
modesty and protect from the Sun.
它可以塞进外袍之中
It could be worn tucked into the gown or
或是披肩佩戴 有时
worn over the shoulders and sometimes it was crossed
绕过胸绑在身后
over the chest and tied at the back.
胸兜是一种装饰性的布板
The stomacher was a decorative panel of fabric
被塞于礼服马甲中央
that filled the center front bodice of a gown.
胸兜可以是硬质也可以是软质
It could have been stiffened or just lined
并且在胸兜的边上有三对亚麻布
and had three pairs of linen tabs at the side,
去帮助将它钉在衣服之下
to help pin it to the stage beneath.
胸兜可以用奢华的装饰以及
Stomachers could be highly decorated and worn
与其他不同的长袍
with many different gowns or
或相配的织物所搭配
made of matching fabric.
礼服裙可以由外观差别较大的布所制作
The gownpetticoat could be made of contrasting fabric
或者用来搭配长袍
or to match the gown.
它镶有丝绸或者亚麻布 并且一边有开口
It was linedwith silk or linen and had side openings
为了放置小包
for pocket access.
精巧缝合的丝绸长裙经常在冬天派上用场
Elaborately quiltedsilk petticoat were often worn in colder weather.
长袍穿在前面一侧
The gown is pinned into place down the side front
被直钉钉在胸兜的前面
of the stomacher with straight pins.
女仆的围裙有一个围嘴
The maid’s linen apron has abib pinned into position.
围裙这一叫法的起源是“pinafore”
The origin of the term’pinafore’.
她将直钉放在围嘴上做好准备
She has placed thestraight pins in the bib ready for
去扣紧她的主人的长袍
fastening her mistress’s gown.
长袍下的丝带
Ribbons beneath the gowns skirts are tied
被系在一起 为了将裙子提高到合适的位置
together to raise the skirts into apolonaise puff.
日常的帽子被所有的阶层所穿戴
Day caps were worn by all classes
并且帽子种类从实用性到装饰性都有
and varied from practical todecorative.
最后精美的丝绸或绣花的细布围裙被加在衣服上
Finally a delicate silk or embroideredmuslin apron is added,
这些装饰没有实际目的
which serves no purpose
却是表明穿着者高贵的社会地位
but to indicate the fine status of the individual wearing it.
是为了摆阔的作用
conspicuous consumption.

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视频概述

本视频详细介绍了18世纪欧洲女性穿衣的具体情况以及所穿戴的各种衣物

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翻译译者

刘子晟👻

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审核员XY

视频来源

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpnwWP3fOSA

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