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永不过时的时尚:迪奥“Bar”系列套装 – 译学馆
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永不过时的时尚:迪奥“Bar”系列套装

Fashion unpicked: The 'Bar' suit by Christian Dior

这就是迪奥的“酒吧”套装
This is the Dior ‘Bar’ suit,
也是最具代表性的藏品之一
and it’s one of the most iconic pieces in the collection.
1960年 在塞西尔·比顿的帮助下 它来到了博物馆
It came into the museum in 1960 with the help of Cecil Beaton.
在巴黎 克里斯蒂安·迪奥完成了“新风貌”的样衣
Christian Dior in Paris was approached for an example of the ‘New Look’.
他们回来说“酒吧”套装有点旧了
They came back and said the Bar suit was a little bit worn
想给我们一件新的
and would make us a new one.
馆长急忙拒绝了
The curator hastily replied and said, ‘No.’
他说:“我们想要原版的”
‘We would like an original.’
这套原版就被送到了博物馆
And this is what arrived.
这个套装在迪奥“新风貌”系列里非常典型
This suit is very typical of Dior’s ‘New Look’,
比起四四方方的实用性穿着 它有很大不同
and it was so different from the boxy shapes of utility wear,
它是女性化的 充满线条感
and it was feminine, full of fabric,
用完全不同的造型凸显出女性的身材
and a completely different shape that flattered the figure.
我首先注意到 这件上衣没有迪奥的领标
The first thing I noticed about the jacket is that it doesn’t have a Dior label.
但在侧缝里有一个“酒吧”的标签
It does have a label that sewn into the side seam that says ‘Bar’.
这可能是考虑到要参加时装秀或者被展示给顾客
It could have been thought for a fashion show or to show clients.
它也许是著名的威利·梅沃德所拍的照片里的那件上衣
It may have been the jacket worn in the famous Willy Maywald photo.
这件上衣有穿过的痕迹
The jacket does show signs of wear.
这儿 这个接缝
Here, on this seam,
还有一些纽扣眼
and also some of the buttonholes,
有的被重缝过
have been restitched in some way,
纽扣也被挪得靠近衣服边缘了
and the buttons also have been moved near the edge.
这件衣服采用了非常传统的制作方法
It’s made in a very traditional way,
上衣由十个拼接部分裁剪而成
The jacket is cut with ten panels,
这是前边 侧前边
this the front, the side front,
侧边 侧后边和后边
side, side back and back.
它是茶杯状的衣形
It has a teacup shape.
打开里衬可以看到 刚好是一个半圆形
When you look inside, you can see that it goes round in a semicircle
量起来是腰围的三倍
three times the measurement of the waist.
后边没有衬垫 但前边有
There’s no pads at the back, but there’s pads at the front.
前边的衬垫 用一种网格状的棉花制成
But those pads at the front they’re made out of a cotton, the net fabric.
很结实
They’re quite firm,
网格布给上衣的前边塑型
the net gives the shaping to the front of the jacket,
所以衣服这部分看上去很突出
so that it actually stands out.
这里有一条连衣裙缝线
It has princesse line seaming down here,
所有缝褶的形状都是用这条缝线塑造出的
so all the darts shaping is in these seams
这条缝线呈现出了收腰 然后在胯部展开的衣型
so that it can be shaped into the waist and then flare out at the hip.
它是用仙黛尔丝绸做成的
It’s made from Chantelle silk.
翻领和领子是手缝的
the revere and the collar is hand stitched,
下领在交叉处截断
the under collar is cut on the cross.
它穿在身上很合身 不容易起褶子
It sits on the body very easily without there being any creases.
它有五颗包布的纽扣
It has five covered buttons and so,
还有五个系扣子的扣眼
and five bound button holes.
它有两个手巾袋 口袋是可以使用的
It’s got two welt pockets, fully functional.
然后看袖子
and then on the sleeve
上面也有两颗纽扣和两个纽扣眼
there’s also two buttons and button holes.
看看上衣后面
Looking at the back of the jacket,
你可以看到 驳幅紧紧贴合着身体
you can see the panel’s fit closely to the body,
以及它收腰的方式
and the way it tapers in to the waist,
然后再展开到胯部
and then flares out again to the hips.
这是“酒吧”套装的裙子
This is the skirt of the ‘Bar’ suit,
相当沉
which is incredibly heavy.
裙腰做得很挺括
The yoke is very stiff to take
以此来承载裙子的重量
the weight of the skirt,
这个是用双层马毛帆布做成的
so it’s made up of two layers of horsehair canvas,
一层是里衬 还有一层是挺括的网布
a layer of linen, and there’s also a layer of stiff net.
你能看到这里的针脚
You can see the stitching,
它们被缝合在一起 制成裙腰
where they quilted it together to make the yoke.
裙子的打褶虽是手工缝制固定的
The pleats are held in place by hand stitches,
但它们不会在上衣下移动
but they don’t move under the jacket
并且能保持形状
and it holds its shape.
实际穿着时 裙腰部分是覆盖在上衣里的
There are two the actual depth of the jacket,
所以前边是看不见针脚的
so they’re not seen from the front
当你看到这件裙子的时候
When you look at the skirt,
你可以看到它是很蓬的
you can see how it rises up
这就要归功于下边的多层网布了
and this is because underneath are layers of net
这样它才能在臀部处凸出来
so that it stands out at the hip.
裙子是用黑色绉纱做的
The skirt is made out of black crepe fabric
它大约90厘米长
It’s a piece that would’ve been around 90 centimeters long,
大概用了五米半布料来做
about five and a half meters of fabric in the skirt.
这些刀形褶有4厘米深
The knife pleats are four centimetres deep.
想想在战争时 物资有限的情况下
When you think of wartime and the restrictions,
这是多么奢侈
Very extravagant
如果我们看看裙子下面
If we look under the skirt,
就会看到头层丝绸里衬
you can see the first silk lining,
这些针脚线
the lines of stitching,
这是为了给网格布固定位置
and this is to hold the net in place.
你可以看到裙角层层堆叠的网布
You can see the bottom of the tears of net,
这让裙子从侧面看起来更挺括立体
which give it its plumpness at the sides.
太棒了
It’s just so nice.

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迪奥“酒吧”套装的相关介绍

听录译者

sky 1_0

翻译译者

嘉遥

审核员

审核员BY

视频来源

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8ch2Ixxf2M

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