又是我 艾莉克莎·钟 一名时尚侦探
Me again, Alexa Chung, fashion detective.
Delving deep behind the seams, there is a pun,
to show you the truth about the fashion industry
and the amazing people who work in it.
In this episode, I’m finding out what a trend forecaster is.
And trying not to steal things from Paul Smith.
The future of fashion with Alexa Chung
Having kept his classic brand relevant for over 45 years,
Paul Smith has exceeded where many others have failed.
So people in fashion are really sane.
At business HQ in Covent Garden,
a young and talented team work under
the ever enthusiastic guidance of the man himself,
driving the brand forward into a bright future.
What is this room then?
This is spring…spring next year,
men’s clothes and accessories.
I love this, I love that.
And all that chioo…all the colors.
That’s my gem, that’s my gem.
This is my suit to traveling.
Look at that.
It makes me want to be a boy.
Check her bags on the way out.
I brought this from my garden.
I want to be a racing’s artist.
And it never happened, because I had a bad crash.
And then, I ended up meeting people
from the art school in Nottingham.
And then I worked as a shop assistant.
And then I met a lady who became my girlfriend
and now my wife.
And she trained at the Royal College of Art
I think couture fashion.
And so that was fantastic.
So my teaching was at home on the kitchen table, you know.
How to cut a pattern, how to you know
put a sleeve in and the importance of cotton shape.
And at 21 I saw Sanit Laurent the first…
the first smoking suit.
When they walked on and went like that
and there was little boobies underneath.
And it was like huhh.
Because it was very you know…
– shocking at time.- revolting, yeah.
We started a little collection.
I mean literally…
two jackets four shirts for men to start with.
And then about about 20 years I got for women.
People refer to Paul Smith as brand and I was…
it’s a bit wired for me, correct?
Yeah. Coz you are…
因为我 嗯 是个大品牌
Coz I can’t say, well, yeah, I’m high brand, yeah.
Yeah, it’s written in my underpants, but I mean…
Well, on my watch actually.
Do young people approach you and ask your advice?
All the time yeah.
So…what do they want to know?
When I walk around the building with the lad, the students,
you know, I said first of all you all might want to be designers.
But in a way get that out of your head.
Because, as you all around the builder,
I’m going to show you lots of lovely jobs
you can do with that skill.
There’s buying, there’s press,
there’s social media and there’s shop design,
there’s styling, there’s management.
That means so many great jobs you can get,
if you would go through that fashion system.
Yeah, and they’re still creative you’re still like…
有创意 对 很有创意
Very creative, yeah, very creative.
Part of your success has been down to the fact,
that you’ve always embraced the new.
And you’ve moved along with the times.
But is that something that just comes naturally to you
as a person who’s excited about…
yeah I’m very curious person.
然而很多人 我想 他们开始
Whereas a lot of people, I think, they start,
they leaving university or college and then they have this look
and then it goes on and on.
Unfortunately, a lot of them don’t really…change from it.
And then that’s when it starts to get difficult.
Because, you know, fashion is about today and tomorrow.
You’ve never made it basically.
I’ve always liked the idea of being a buyer,
getting paid to shop with someone else’s credit card,
sounds like a pretty amazing job to me.
Our Google results suggested it is now
one of the most desirable positions within fashion.
But what is it that these mysterious people actually do.
At Selvages Oxford Street store Judd Crain is living the dream,
as director of women’s wear and accessories.
I’m obsessed with clothes, that’s the problem.
You can suggest things for me to buy,
and I’ll tell you I can’t afford them.
Is this in the sale? Be honest.
No, it’s brand-new.
I just love everything. I just love it.
So it’s been a mystery to me, what your job is.
Can you explain what you do?
Well I guess it…at a very basic level,
we just see things we love and we buy them.
So that other people can buy them.
And then how do you decide which brands go next to the other one?
Do they have rules, where some brands might want to
sit alongside another competitor?
Well, everyone has ideas of where they want to be.
But ultimately what we’re interested in is creating an environment for the customer.
So a lot of times, we challenge our brands
to really think differently about how they could be portrayed.
We’re at store that has Chanel just directly across Rick Owens,
which you don’t really see in other…many environment.
But for us, the idea of putting those two together is that
we actually find it stimulates both of those customers.
I actually think the best way to gain experience,
to be a good buyer is to not become a buyer directly.
You know I think to have a background in visual merchandising
or a background, I’m actually working with customers.
We have a few buyers that have come from personal shopping.
Because… they actually get really really close to what customers want.
It’s basically my dream job, I think.
Actually my testing things isn’t reflective of what sells.
That’s a really interesting thing about it is.
It’s really interesting to try to force yourself to be objective.
Because it kind of has nothing to do with
what you want to wear, what intimate react would might sell.
However, I think it’s so important to have that thing,
that just hits you emotionally.
Because it will hit other people to…
You’re touching on where we’re talking about,
in a broader sense, just that fashion has a reputation
for being like the shallow and all about image ect.
Actually when you get to it the reason that people interested in,
the reason that people have jobs within this industry is because
it is emotional for everyone as well, identity as well,
the feels as well, creating a persona.
And I think it’s really an art form for some people.
And you’re kind of like expressing things,
that are intrinsically personal by what you wear.
这就是他们的生活 对吗？ 你为他们选的
These are people’s lives, isn’t it? You pick.
When innovative thinking and technology combine,
new industries are born that changed the face of fashion forever.
And in the late 90s trend forecasting did exactly that.
Global powerhouse WGSN pioneered the market,
turning the potential trends of the future into a highly valuable commodity.
Once again, asses.
Essentially, what we’re doing is trend forecasting.
So, we are going around the world,
looking at all sorts of cultural influences from street fashion
towards going on in food, cars whatever it may be.
Collecting all of that information,
presenting it to our customers and using that,
to kind of set a backdrop
for how fashion will develop in the future.
Because all of those things influence the way people want to dress.
So essentially it’s a website.
And we have, you know, several thousand brands
around the world that subscribe to our website.
And they all use it in many and varied ways.
And they’re looking at fashion trends.
So we design, we are after designing fashion collections.
And they’re looking at that, they’re looking at catwalks,
they’re looking at street fashion, they’re looking at retail trends.
We go around the world and look at what’s going on in shops.
And explain that to people.
It’s a really enormous resource for fashion.
If I’m thinking about what’s about to happen
or how I’d like to get dressed.
Anything that makes you feel a bit sick or a bit weird
is something that I am drawn to.
And then that’s usually, because it’s different to
what I’m accustomed to.
Often with a Christopher Kane collection,
I don’t know why him in particular.
But it’ll come down, I’d be like
I mean, I can appreciate that it’s great.
But I don’t necessarily want to wear it yet.
And then suddenly when that season rolls around.
I think it’s so perfect for how I feel the time.
It’s clever like that.
I have sometimes I look at some of the things that we do.
And just think, are we sure about this?
But you trust them. Because actually at the time
that it’s ready to drop. You’re ready for it.
你会认为 嗯 他们是对的
You know, you think, oh, no, they’re right.
So now, I feel like wearing that.
You know, it’s interesting.
And this is men’s trends.
This is men’s trends.
Oh my god, okay.
So, where do you collect ideas from?
Everywhere really. It’s not just like one specific area,
we go to, we look across the boards. It’s not just fashion.
It’s like what influences fashion as well as like music
or subcultures or it girls it guys films, like you said earlier.
The biggest influence on this is party through of Cuba, The Fashion is Over.
哦 看出了 对
Oh right yeah of course yeah.
And obviously, there’s a huge influx of tourism to Cuba.
So then when you see that type of influence on
or in shops and in you know the world.
她穿出去了 你就 你看起来很自豪
Does she go out, you could…you look proud yeah.
This is Sam who is the denim dude.
Hi, how are you denim dude.
Nice to meet you.
– My god you even in your mouse.- So, this is the denim desk.
So you’re responsible for compiling this entire.
Yeah everything from like retail I do through to
like catwalks what we’re doing right now,
which is like the men’s SS 16 ones.
And we do trade shows street style.
Something that get designers up there looking around with the another part.
See like the wired Internet as well.
But we’re doing that like specifically for each category.
So I’m looking at everything denim across like
就像照片分享软件 品趣思 齿轮
Instagram, like, Pinterest, Tumblers.
And I’m always looking for new brands still at Bliss & Mischief.
I’d put them like the blog, as well,
which is like a public site. So it’s not just…
Just like you’d out of subscription to that.
And then I do like an interview of the brand as well,
try and give them like some exposures.
Very good, okay. As long as it’s in the field.
But there’s no way at school I would have known,
that this was a job optional.
It is so fun. Do you take interns?
Fashion used to be really top down.
It use to be whatever somebody in Paris said it was.
That was what it was, you know.
And now, you know, it is kids on the street.
Is that from social media as well?
It is and they … and they are much more influenced
peer to peer than they would be from what
any couture designer would tell them, you know.
It’s more important what their mates think.
It’s harder to be their underground.
Because there’s always somebody, you know,
在互联网上交流 用推特 用分享软件或者什么的
communicating that and tweeting it and instagramming it or whatever it is.
It gets out there much quicker.
So the influence spreads much quicker then.
But then, did that lend itself to the fashion industry
kind of moving into a more do-it-yourself.
Yeah, like a DIY situation.
Rather than it being this elitist thing.
Do you think it’s an opportunity for people to kind of to homegrown?
I think that’s absolutely right.
And we were just talking about that.
It’s almost DIY life right now, you know.
If people much younger than me, you know.
When I was growing up, you had to get your degree.
And people were just sort of shoving you in the direction,
where you had to kind of go to a big organization
and get a proper job.
And then people were telling you how to dress.
That doesn’t work like that now, you know.
People don’t feel the same constraints.
They will decide create their own careers.
And that might be online. They might be bloggers,
they might have a little shop online, they might create their own fashion career.
There are music and they’ve got means of communicating that
to other people that is just not open to us.
And you’re seeing all these new and interesting designers coming up.
The real change of god I think at the moment.
I think perhaps maybe we’ll be looking back
and thinking that was when that started.
I can’t count. But I think that was episode four.
If it loads to watch episode five.
Subscribe to the British Vogue YouTube channel
And it will be laid out for you. Just have to go bup.
As a click. Don’t using that.
Next I head to Paris to talk film
with the creator of Dior and I.
And meet the minds behind two unique pros in brands.
Also, it was an opportunity to eat croissants.
又是我 艾莉克莎·钟 一名时尚侦探