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时尚买手以及潮流预测——《英国时尚》 – 译学馆
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时尚买手以及潮流预测——《英国时尚》

Fashion Buyer and What is a Trend Forecaster | S1, E4 | Future of Fashion | British Vogue

又是我 艾莉克莎·钟 一名时尚侦探
Me again, Alexa Chung, fashion detective.
探寻更深层次的时尚地带 也就是
Delving deep behind the seams, there is a pun,
向你展示时尚业的真相
to show you the truth about the fashion industry
和里面工作的能人
and the amazing people who work in it.
在这集中 我会找出未来的时尚趋势
In this episode, I’m finding out what a trend forecaster is.
试着不从保罗·史密斯那里偷东西
And trying not to steal things from Paul Smith.
时尚礼物
Vogue Presents
艾莉克莎· 钟的未来时尚之路
The future of fashion with Alexa Chung
经营了45年的经典品牌
Having kept his classic brand relevant for over 45 years,
在别人失败的行业 保罗·史密斯一直出类拔萃
Paul Smith has exceeded where many others have failed.
所以时尚界的人都很理智
So people in fashion are really sane.
在科芬园的总部
At business HQ in Covent Garden,
一个年轻天才团队
a young and talented team work under
在这个男人充满激情的指导下
the ever enthusiastic guidance of the man himself,
将品牌推向光明的未来
driving the brand forward into a bright future.
这个房间里陈列的是什么呢
What is this room then?
这是明年的春装
This is spring…spring next year,
男装和配饰
men’s clothes and accessories.
我喜欢这件 还有这件
I love this, I love that.
还有所有的 所有的颜色
And all that chioo…all the colors.
好漂亮呀
So nice.
那是我喜欢的 那也喜欢
That’s my gem, that’s my gem.
剪刀手
Peace.
这是我旅行用的外套
This is my suit to traveling.
好棒
Bravo.
看那个
Look at that.
我都想当个男生了
It makes me want to be a boy.
她出去的时候检查一下她的包
Check her bags on the way out.
这是从我花园里摘来的
I brought this from my garden.
真的吗?
Are they?
是呀
Yeah.
我想成为一个赛车手
I want to be a racing’s artist.
然后呢
Right.
但这不会实现 因为我发生过车祸
And it never happened, because I had a bad crash.
在那之后 我不再见
And then, I ended up meeting people
诺丁汉艺术学校里的人
from the art school in Nottingham.
然后我做了一个商店的助手
And then I worked as a shop assistant.
之后我遇到了一个姑娘 她后来成了我的女朋友
And then I met a lady who became my girlfriend
现在是我的妻子
and now my wife.
她受过皇家艺术学院的培训
And she trained at the Royal College of Art
是时尚服装设计师
I think couture fashion.

Right.
这非常的奇妙
And so that was fantastic.
所以我学习的地方是家里的餐桌
So my teaching was at home on the kitchen table, you know.
学习怎样裁剪一个图案 如何
How to cut a pattern, how to you know
缝上袖子 知道棉质造型的关键
put a sleeve in and the importance of cotton shape.
我21岁那年 在圣劳伦特看见
And at 21 I saw Sanit Laurent the first…
第一套吸烟服
the first smoking suit.

Wow.
他们走路的样子
When they walked on and went like that
就像小混混
and there was little boobies underneath.
就像 额
And it was like huhh.
那种感觉你知道吧
Because it was very you know…
-感到很震惊-很叛逆
– shocking at time.- revolting, yeah.
我们开始了一个小的系列
We started a little collection.
我意思是
I mean literally…
开始只做男士的两件夹克四件衬衫
two jackets four shirts for men to start with.
大概20年后我推出了女士服装
And then about about 20 years I got for women.
人们更习惯把保罗·史密斯作为品牌
People refer to Paul Smith as brand and I was…
这也跟我有点联系 不是吗?
it’s a bit wired for me, correct?
是啊 因为你
Yeah. Coz you are…
因为我 嗯 是个大品牌
Coz I can’t say, well, yeah, I’m high brand, yeah.
这标签都是写在我内裤上的
Yeah, it’s written in my underpants, but I mean…
事实上我的手表也是
Well, on my watch actually.
有年轻人向你取经吗?
Do young people approach you and ask your advice?
当然有
All the time yeah.
所以…他们想知道些什么?
So…what do they want to know?
当我和这些小伙子 学生一起在楼下闲走时
When I walk around the building with the lad, the students,
我说 首先你也许很想成为设计师
you know, I said first of all you all might want to be designers.
但某种程度上 你要把这想法抛开
But in a way get that out of your head.
因为就像你周围的人一样
Because, as you all around the builder,
你可以看到很多有趣的工作
I’m going to show you lots of lovely jobs
有关这些技能的
you can do with that skill.
有采买的 有印刷的
There’s buying, there’s press,
有社交媒体的 有店铺设计的
there’s social media and there’s shop design,
有个人风格的 有管理层的
there’s styling, there’s management.
如果你受过时尚系统培训的话
That means so many great jobs you can get,
你可以做很多好工作
if you would go through that fashion system.
他们仍然很有创意
Yeah, and they’re still creative you’re still like…
有创意 对 很有创意
Very creative, yeah, very creative.
你成功的事实是
Part of your success has been down to the fact,
你总是尝试新事物
that you’ve always embraced the new.
与时俱进
And you’ve moved along with the times.
作为一个对那些感兴趣的人
But is that something that just comes naturally to you
那都是对你来说很自然的事
as a person who’s excited about…
我是一个好奇的人
yeah I’m very curious person.
然而很多人 我想 他们开始
Whereas a lot of people, I think, they start,
离开大学 生活在现状
they leaving university or college and then they have this look
然后又继续下去
and then it goes on and on.
不幸的是他们很多都没有真正地改变
Unfortunately, a lot of them don’t really…change from it.
所以开始会变得困难
And then that’s when it starts to get difficult.
因为时尚是关于现今和未来的
Because, you know, fashion is about today and tomorrow.
你基本上没有可能成功的
You’ve never made it basically.
我有种想成为买手的想法
I’ve always liked the idea of being a buyer,
用别人的信用卡买东西还能得到报酬
getting paid to shop with someone else’s credit card,
对我来说是个非常吸引的工作
sounds like a pretty amazing job to me.
这也是谷歌搜索结果中
Our Google results suggested it is now
时尚界最令人向往的职位之一
one of the most desirable positions within fashion.
那这些神秘的人到底是做什么的呢?
But what is it that these mysterious people actually do.
在牛津街布边商店 贾德·克雷恩正做着这个工作
At Selvages Oxford Street store Judd Crain is living the dream,
作为女士服装的导购和辅助
as director of women’s wear and accessories.
我很喜欢这些衣服 这是个问题
I’m obsessed with clothes, that’s the problem.
你可以推荐东西给我买
You can suggest things for me to buy,
但我会告诉你 我买不起
and I’ll tell you I can’t afford them.
老实说 销售的时候有这种情况吗?
Is this in the sale? Be honest.
没有 这是全新的
No, it’s brand-new.
我只是喜欢这些东西 我只是很喜欢
I just love everything. I just love it.
我很疑惑 你的工作是什么
So it’s been a mystery to me, what your job is.
能说说你是做什么的吗?
Can you explain what you do?
我想我在一个非常基础的水平
Well I guess it…at a very basic level,
我们只是看到喜欢的东西然后买下它
we just see things we love and we buy them.
这样其他人也能买下它们
So that other people can buy them.
你是如何选择哪个品牌紧挨着另一个品牌的?
And then how do you decide which brands go next to the other one?
有规律吗 也许一些品牌想
Do they have rules, where some brands might want to
与竞争对手并驾齐驱呢
sit alongside another competitor?
每个人都有自己想要放置的位置
Well, everyone has ideas of where they want to be.
没错
Right.
但根本上我们要提供一个购买环境给顾客
But ultimately what we’re interested in is creating an environment for the customer.
是的
Yeah.
所以很多时候 我们会质疑我们的品牌
So a lot of times, we challenge our brands
关于顾客描述的是不是真的有不同的看法
to really think differently about how they could be portrayed.
我们可以看到商店里香奈儿的销量直接超过了里克·欧文斯
We’re at store that has Chanel just directly across Rick Owens,
这是你在其他销售环境看不到的
which you don’t really see in other…many environment.
对呀
Yeah.
但对我们来说 把这两个品牌放在一起的理由是
But for us, the idea of putting those two together is that
我们发现这样会激励喜欢两个品牌的顾客去购买
we actually find it stimulates both of those customers.
我非常认可这是获取经验最好的方法
I actually think the best way to gain experience,
一名好的买手并不是一日就能成的
to be a good buyer is to not become a buyer directly.
我认为要有视觉销售的经验
You know I think to have a background in visual merchandising
或者有为顾客服务的经验
or a background, I’m actually working with customers.
我们有些买手之前也有私人购买的
We have a few buyers that have come from personal shopping.
因为 他们更清楚地知道顾客想要什么
Because… they actually get really really close to what customers want.
我想 这就是我梦想中的工作了
It’s basically my dream job, I think.
事实上我测试的东西并不能反映我卖什么
Actually my testing things isn’t reflective of what sells.
这就是其中的乐趣
That’s a really interesting thing about it is.
尝试着让你自己变得客观 这真的很有趣
It’s really interesting to try to force yourself to be objective.
对呀
Yeah.
因为你并不能决定你想要穿的衣服
Because it kind of has nothing to do with
怎样的交流才能卖出商品
what you want to wear, what intimate react would might sell.
然而 我认为
However, I think it’s so important to have that thing,
能触动你情感的东西很重要
that just hits you emotionally.
对呀
Yeah.
因为这会触动其他人
Because it will hit other people to…
会由于我们谈的话而触动
You’re touching on where we’re talking about,
在广义上 时尚有
in a broader sense, just that fashion has a reputation
浅薄和只注重外表等等的名声
for being like the shallow and all about image ect.
实际上 当你知道了人们感兴趣的因素
Actually when you get to it the reason that people interested in,
人们在这个产业工作的原因
the reason that people have jobs within this industry is because
每个人都很情绪化 都很独特
it is emotional for everyone as well, identity as well,
感受也是 这就创造了个性
the feels as well, creating a persona.
我认为对一些人来说是一种艺术形式
And I think it’s really an art form for some people.
一种形式来表达
And you’re kind of like expressing things,
你穿出来的内在个性
that are intrinsically personal by what you wear.
这就是他们的生活 对吗? 你为他们选的
These are people’s lives, isn’t it? You pick.
确实 确实
Exactly, exactly.
当新颖的想法结合科技
When innovative thinking and technology combine,
新兴产业的诞生永远改变了时尚
new industries are born that changed the face of fashion forever.
90年代后期预测的潮流趋势恰好是这样
And in the late 90s trend forecasting did exactly that.
全球龙头WGSN开拓了市场
Global powerhouse WGSN pioneered the market,
转向未来极具价值商品的潜在趋势
turning the potential trends of the future into a highly valuable commodity.
你好
Hello.
再来一遍 笨蛋
Once again, asses.
本质上 我们做的就是预测潮流趋势
Essentially, what we’re doing is trend forecasting.
所以 我们环游着世界
So, we are going around the world,
在街头看着受各种各样文化影响的时尚
looking at all sorts of cultural influences from street fashion
食物 汽车….所有可能的东西
towards going on in food, cars whatever it may be.
收集所有有关的信息
Collecting all of that information,
用那些因素呈现给我们的顾客
presenting it to our customers and using that,
为时尚未来的发展
to kind of set a backdrop
设置一些背景
for how fashion will develop in the future.
因为所有这些东西都有可能影响人们的穿着
Because all of those things influence the way people want to dress.
所以它基本上是一个网站
So essentially it’s a website.
没错
Yeah.
你知道 在全球有几千个品牌
And we have, you know, several thousand brands
订阅我们的网站
around the world that subscribe to our website.
他们在很多方面都使用它
And they all use it in many and varied ways.
他们用来查看时尚潮流的趋势
And they’re looking at fashion trends.
我们正设计时装系列
So we design, we are after designing fashion collections.
然后他们可以查看走秀
And they’re looking at that, they’re looking at catwalks,
他们可以查看街头时尚 他们可以查看零售趋势
they’re looking at street fashion, they’re looking at retail trends.
我们环游世界并观察商店里的情况
We go around the world and look at what’s going on in shops.
然后向人们说明我们的推测
And explain that to people.
这真的是时尚界巨大的资源
It’s a really enormous resource for fashion.
如果我想知道时尚界发生了什么
If I’m thinking about what’s about to happen
或者我想知道如何穿搭 在里面都可以找到
or how I’d like to get dressed.
所有让你感到渴望的或者奇怪的事情
Anything that makes you feel a bit sick or a bit weird
都很吸引我
is something that I am drawn to.
这很经常 因为
And then that’s usually, because it’s different to
这是我不同于人的习惯
what I’m accustomed to.
我经常搭配Christopher Kane系列
Often with a Christopher Kane collection,
我也不知道为什么尤其喜欢他
I don’t know why him in particular.
但这一直就是这样
But it’ll come down, I’d be like
我很欣赏 这个系列很棒
I mean, I can appreciate that it’s great.
我不是非它不可
But I don’t necessarily want to wear it yet.
当突然换季的时候
And then suddenly when that season rolls around.
这系列的服装能让我很好地适应季节的变换
I think it’s so perfect for how I feel the time.
这很人性化
It’s clever like that.
我有时候看我做的一些事
I have sometimes I look at some of the things that we do.
就会想 我们对此确认吗?
And just think, are we sure about this?
但你相信他们 因为
But you trust them. Because actually at the time
气温准备下降的时候 你也准备好了
that it’s ready to drop. You’re ready for it.
你会认为 嗯 他们是对的
You know, you think, oh, no, they’re right.
现在我觉得我喜欢穿那种
So now, I feel like wearing that.
很有趣
You know, it’s interesting.
这是男装的潮流趋势
And this is men’s trends.
这是男装的潮流趋势
This is men’s trends.
何时推出的?
For when?
17年春夏季的
Spring/summer 17.
我的天
Oh my god, okay.
所以这个系列的灵感来自什么?
So, where do you collect ideas from?
很多方面的 没有说特定的地方
Everywhere really. It’s not just like one specific area,
我们去看各个角落 不只是时尚
we go to, we look across the boards. It’s not just fashion.
就像影响音乐一样影响着时尚
It’s like what influences fashion as well as like music
或者是亚文化或者是电影 就像你之前说的那样
or subcultures or it girls it guys films, like you said earlier.
这部分最大的影响因素是古巴 这阵时尚已经过时了
The biggest influence on this is party through of Cuba, The Fashion is Over.
哦 看出了 对
Oh right yeah of course yeah.
很明显 古巴有繁荣的旅游业
And obviously, there’s a huge influx of tourism to Cuba.
所以当你看到那个因素影响了
So then when you see that type of influence on
商店或是你所知道的世界
or in shops and in you know the world.
她穿出去了 你就 你看起来很自豪
Does she go out, you could…you look proud yeah.
酷古巴
Cool Cuba.
这是牛仔老兄山姆
This is Sam who is the denim dude.
你好 你好吗牛仔老兄
Hi, how are you denim dude.
很高兴认识你
Nice to meet you.
-我的天 你甚至用在你的鼠标上-所以这是牛仔桌
– My god you even in your mouse.- So, this is the denim desk.
真棒
Nice.
所以你负责编辑这全部
So you’re responsible for compiling this entire.
对呀 从零售
Yeah everything from like retail I do through to
到走秀都是我们正在做的
like catwalks what we’re doing right now,
就像男子SS16那些
which is like the men’s SS 16 ones.
我们做街头风格的商展
And we do trade shows street style.
设计师会到那里观察另一部分
Something that get designers up there looking around with the another part.
看起来像有线互联网
See like the wired Internet as well.
但我们都有很明确的范畴
But we’re doing that like specifically for each category.
所以我看每一块牛仔布
So I’m looking at everything denim across like
就像照片分享软件 品趣思 齿轮
Instagram, like, Pinterest, Tumblers.
我仍然在Bliss&Mischief找寻新的品牌
And I’m always looking for new brands still at Bliss & Mischief.
我把他们拍到博客上去
I’d put them like the blog, as well,
这像是一个公共的网站 而不仅仅是…
which is like a public site. So it’s not just…
就算你没有订阅也能看到
Just like you’d out of subscription to that.
然后我也采访了这品牌
And then I do like an interview of the brand as well,
试着增加他们的曝光率
try and give them like some exposures.
非常好呀 只要它在这个领域里
Very good, okay. As long as it’s in the field.
对呀 哈哈
Yeah haha.
但在学校里没有办法知道
But there’s no way at school I would have known,
这是一项可从事的工作
that this was a job optional.
好有趣 你是在实习吗?
It is so fun. Do you take interns?
时尚曾经是自上而下的
Fashion used to be really top down.
只要在巴黎有人说过 就是时尚
It use to be whatever somebody in Paris said it was.
时尚就是这样的
That was what it was, you know.
现在 却是来自街上的孩子们
And now, you know, it is kids on the street.
也来自社交媒体吧?
Is that from social media as well?
对的 他们同龄人一对一
It is and they … and they are much more influenced
的交谈
peer to peer than they would be from what
比服装设计师直接告诉他们影响更深
any couture designer would tell them, you know.
更重要的是他们朋友的想法
It’s more important what their mates think.
我们很难加入他们的队伍
It’s harder to be their underground.
因为经常有一些人
Because there’s always somebody, you know,
在互联网上交流 用推特 用分享软件或者什么的
communicating that and tweeting it and instagramming it or whatever it is.
这散播更快
It gets out there much quicker.
影响也传播得更快
So the influence spreads much quicker then.
然后 把这方法引进时尚产业中
But then, did that lend itself to the fashion industry
更多的是自己动手做的
kind of moving into a more do-it-yourself.
就像DIY那样
Yeah, like a DIY situation.
而不是精英主义的那种
Rather than it being this elitist thing.
你认为这是人们融入当地的一个机会吗?
Do you think it’s an opportunity for people to kind of to homegrown?
这是绝对的
I think that’s absolutely right.
我们刚刚谈到的
And we were just talking about that.
现在几乎是要自己动手做的时代
It’s almost DIY life right now, you know.
比我小很多的那些人
If people much younger than me, you know.
长大后 你必须拿到你的学位
When I was growing up, you had to get your degree.
人们将你推向定好的道路
And people were just sort of shoving you in the direction,
你必须去大企业
where you had to kind of go to a big organization
获得正当的工作
and get a proper job.
人们会告诉你如何穿搭
And then people were telling you how to dress.
他们不会做现在这样的工作
That doesn’t work like that now, you know.
他们不会受到跟现在一样的限制
People don’t feel the same constraints.
他们会创造出自己的事业
They will decide create their own careers.
可能是在网上的 他们也许是博客
And that might be online. They might be bloggers,
他们可能有个小的网店 他们可能创造出他们自己的时尚事业
they might have a little shop online, they might create their own fashion career.
他们有自己的交流方式
There are music and they’ve got means of communicating that
只是跟我们不同而已
to other people that is just not open to us.
你可以看到这些新的 有趣的设计师一个接一个
And you’re seeing all these new and interesting designers coming up.
我当时想这真的是天赐良机
The real change of god I think at the moment.
我想或许我们要回望
I think perhaps maybe we’ll be looking back
回想刚开始的时候
and thinking that was when that started.
我不会算 但我猜这是第四集
I can’t count. But I think that was episode four.
如果想看第五集
If it loads to watch episode five.
那就订阅英国时尚频道
Subscribe to the British Vogue YouTube channel
都为你准备好了 去那里就好了
And it will be laid out for you. Just have to go bup.
点击订阅
As a click. Don’t using that.
下一站我会去巴黎
Next I head to Paris to talk film
与迪奥的创始人交谈
with the creator of Dior and I.
去探索两个独特品牌专家的思想
And meet the minds behind two unique pros in brands.
当然也要去吃牛角包啦
Also, it was an opportunity to eat croissants.

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译制信息
视频概述

为你探寻时尚的秘密

听录译者

刘倩Rachel

翻译译者

芈殿

审核员

审核员_XY

视频来源

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQcOmHphL-4

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