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美国女性从何时开始穿裤装的? – 译学馆
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美国女性从何时开始穿裤装的?

DEMYSTIFIED: When did women start wearing pants in the U.S.?

揭秘美国女性何时开始穿裤装?
在美国有段时间
NARRATOR: It’s strange to think about today,
女性是不穿裤装的
but there was a time in the United States
这在现在看起来简直匪夷所思
when women just didn’t wear pants.
在许多文明中 女性衣着某种特定裤装已成习惯
In many cultures, women wearing some kind of trouser is an ancient phenomenon.
但在美国 曾有段时间
But in the United States,there was a time when women
女性被禁止穿半身裙或连衣裙 尤其在公共场所
were expected to limit their options to skirts and dresses—especially out in public.
那么这种现象是何时改变 如何转变的呢?
So when and how did this change?
女性是从什么时候开始穿裤装的呢?
When did women start wearing pants? Well,
首先 我们要知道美国历史上有段时间 有些女性是穿裤装的
first, let’s be clear that some women have sometimes worn pants in America for centuries.
甚至早在19世纪
Women sometimes wore pants
女性就会在工作或娱乐时穿裤装
for work or leisure even in the 19th century,
尽管社会对女性这些实用的着装嗤之以鼻
though society didn’t always look kindlyon these practical clothing decisions.
女性的长裙通常庞大又笨重
The long skirts women worewere often bulky and heavy.
这些服饰在社交和身体方面都有很大的局限性
These clothes were both sociallyand physically restrictive.
它们极大限制了女性渴望的运动范围
They got in the way when women wanted to enjoy a full range of motion.
为达成女性裤装着装自由
The dress reform movementarose in the mid 19th century
夹杂着实用和政治目的女装改良运动
with the goal of giving womenthe freedom to wear trousers
在19世纪中叶兴起
for both practical and political purposes.
裤装在当时被视为女权的象征——当时比较激进的话题
Trousers were seen as a symbol of women’s rights—a radical proposition at the time.
大约在1851年 一位名叫伊丽莎白·史密斯·米勒的女性设计了一件套装
It was around 1851 thata woman named Elizabeth Smith Miller designed an outfit
这成为“女性合理着装”理念支持者中的标志性服饰
that would become iconic among believers in the concept of what was called”rational dress for women.”
套装由半身裙 灯笼裤加上短夹克组成
It consisted of a skirt and loose trousers with a short jacket on top.
艾蜜莉亚·詹克斯·布卢默是其拥护者
The design was championedby Amelia Jenks Bloomer,
套装也迅速以“布卢默”之名走红
and they quickly became known as”bloomers.”
“布卢默”最终不再流行
Bloomers eventually fellout of fashion, but the name
但该名字始终作为灯笼裤的统称
lives on as a description for various baggy,
划分了下装的定义
divided garments for the lower body.
随着人们不再青睐于“布卢默”
Still, as the popularityof bloomers faded, pants became,
裤装又一次成为女性的家居服或运动装
once again, somethingwomen generally wore only in private or for sporting activities.
要最终使女性裤装成为主流
It would take big changes to
需要做出巨大的改变
finally bring women’s pants into the mainstream,
这些变化伴随着两次世界大战到来
and those changes came with two world wars.
一战时期
During the First World War,
男性应征入伍
the mobilization of men in the army
意味着女性开始承担起
meant that women began doing jobs
先前男性从事的工作
that had previously been reserved for men
有时会和男性一样穿裤装
and sometimes wearing thepants that went with them.
但到了二战时期
But it was during World War II
大多数平民和军营中的女性
that women in both civilian and military life
都开始身着裤装
began wearing pants in large numbers;
不仅仅在工作中穿 在社交中同样也穿
not just for work, but socially, too.
很难想象铆工露丝上举二头肌
It’s hard to imagine the Rosie the Riveter wearing a skirt
下着半身裙
below that famous raised bicep.
二战结束后 许多女性继续选择裤装
After the war, many womencontinued to wear pants,
但女性时尚的潮流仍聚焦于半身裙和连衣裙
but women’s fashion still tendedto focus on skirts and dresses.
在女权运动者首次推动
But more than a century afterwomen’s rights activists had first
女性着装改革的一个多世纪后
begun their push to reform how women dress,
二十世纪六七十年代的女权解放运动
the women’s liberation movement of the 1960s and 1970s
才最终得以打破对于女性裤装的污名化
finally helped to break down the stigma against women wearing pants.
今天 在美国
Today in the US,
关于女性是否能在公共场所身着裤装的问题
the question of whether women can wear pants in public
已不成问题
isn’t a question at all.
这也意味着我们可以自由地
Which means we’re free to move on
向性别时尚的另一边前进——
to the next frontier of gendered fashion—
让社会认可男性的裙装
making it socially acceptable for men to wear dresses.
公平起见 对吧?
Fair’s fair, right?

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美国女性裤装那些事儿

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