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美国女性从何时开始穿裤装的? – 译学馆
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美国女性从何时开始穿裤装的?

DEMYSTIFIED: When did women start wearing pants in the U.S.?

揭秘 美国女性何时开始穿裤装?
NARRATOR: It’s strange to think about today,
在美国有段时间
but there was a time in the United States
女性是不穿裤装的
when women just didn’t wear pants.
这在现在看起来简直匪夷所思
In many cultures, women wearing some kind of trouser is an ancient phenomenon.
在许多文明中 女性衣着某种特定裤装已成习惯
But in the United States, there was a time when women
但在美国 曾有段时间
were expected to limit their options to skirts and dresses—especially out in public.
女性被禁止穿半身裙或连衣裙 尤其在公共场所
So when and how did this change?
那么这种现象是何时改变 如何转变的呢?
When did women start wearing pants? Well,
女性是从什么时候开始穿裤装的呢?
first, let’s be clear that some women have sometimes worn pants in America for centuries.
首先 我们要知道美国历史上有段时间 有些女性是穿裤装的
Women sometimes wore pants
甚至早在19世纪
for work or leisure even in the 19th century,
女性就会在工作或娱乐时穿裤装
though society didn’t always look kindly on these practical clothing decisions.
尽管社会对女性这些实用的着装嗤之以鼻
The long skirts women wore were often bulky and heavy.
女性的长裙通常庞大又笨重
These clothes were both socially and physically restrictive.
这些服饰在社交和身体方面都有很大的局限性
They got in the way when women wanted to enjoy a full range of motion.
它们极大限制了女性渴望的运动范围
The dress reform movement arose in the mid 19th century
为达成女性裤装着装自由
with the goal of giving women the freedom to wear trousers
夹杂着实用和政治目的女装改良运动
for both practical and political purposes.
在19世纪中叶兴起
Trousers were seen as a symbol of women’s rights—a radical proposition at the time.
裤装在当时被视为女权的象征——当时比较激进的话题
It was around 1851 that a woman named Elizabeth Smith Miller designed an outfit
大约在1851年 一位名叫伊丽莎白·史密斯·米勒的女性设计了一件套装
that would become iconic among believers in the concept of what was called”rational dress for women.”
这成为“女性合理着装”理念支持者中的标志性服饰
It consisted of a skirt and loose trousers with a short jacket on top.
套装由半身裙 灯笼裤加上短夹克组成
The design was championed by Amelia Jenks Bloomer,
艾蜜莉亚·詹克斯·布卢默是其拥护者
and they quickly became known as”bloomers.”
套装也迅速以“布卢默”之名走红
Bloomers eventually fell out of fashion, but the name
“布卢默”最终不再流行
lives on as a description for various baggy,
但该名字始终作为灯笼裤的统称
divided garments for the lower body.
划分了下装的定义
Still, as the popularity of bloomers faded, pants became,
随着人们不再青睐于“布卢默”
once again, something women generally wore only in private or for sporting activities.
裤装又一次成为女性的家居服或运动装
It would take big changes to
要最终使女性裤装成为主流
finally bring women’s pants into the mainstream,
需要做出巨大的改变
and those changes came with two world wars.
这些变化伴随着两次世界大战到来
During the First World War,
一战时期
the mobilization of men in the army
男性应征入伍
meant that women began doing jobs
意味着女性开始承担起
that had previously been reserved for men
先前男性从事的工作
and sometimes wearing the pants that went with them.
有时会和男性一样穿裤装
But it was during World War II
但到了二战时期
that women in both civilian and military life
大多数平民和军营中的女性
began wearing pants in large numbers;
都开始身着裤装
not just for work, but socially, too.
不仅仅在工作中穿 在社交中同样也穿
It’s hard to imagine the Rosie the Riveter wearing a skirt
很难想象铆工露丝上举二头肌
below that famous raised bicep.
下着半身裙
After the war, many women continued to wear pants,
二战结束后 许多女性继续选择裤装
but women’s fashion still tended to focus on skirts and dresses.
但女性时尚的潮流仍聚焦于半身裙和连衣裙
But more than a century after women’s rights activists had first
在女权运动者首次推动
begun their push to reform how women dress,
女性着装改革的一个多世纪后
the women’s liberation movement of the 1960s and 1970s
二十世纪六七十年代的女权解放运动
finally helped to break down the stigma against women wearing pants.
才最终得以打破对于女性裤装的污名化
Today in the US,
今天 在美国
the question of whether women can wear pants in public
关于女性是否能在公共场所身着裤装的问题
isn’t a question at all.
已不成问题
Which means we’re free to move on
这也意味着我们可以自由地
to the next frontier of gendered fashion—
向性别时尚的另一边前进——
making it socially acceptable for men to wear dresses.
让社会认可男性的裙装
Fair’s fair, right?
公平起见 对吧?

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美国女性裤装那些事儿

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