大家好 欢迎回来观看《哇嘎兄弟》
What’s up everybody? And welcome back to Vagabrothers.
现在我们在海拔3400米的安第斯山脉中心
Right now we’re at 3400 meters in the heart
秘鲁的库斯科
of the Andes in Cusco, Peru.
库斯科是美洲大陆上长期有人口居住的最古老的城市
Cusco is the oldest continuously inhabited city on the continent.
它是印加王朝的中心和首都
It was the heart and capital of the
被称为“美洲的罗马”
Inca Empire, and it’s been referred to as the Rome of the Americas.
今天我们要探索它迷人的历史
Today we’ll be exploring its fascinating history,
从最初的印加王朝的建立到它被西班牙野蛮的占领
from its foundation by the Inca to their brutal conquest by the Spanish
以及现存的历史
and the living history that survives today.
一定很好玩
It’s going to be fun.
很有趣 现在就开始了
It’s going to be interesting, and it starts right now.
[西班牙语]开始干吗？
Listo?
[西班牙语]开始吧
Vamos
我们昨晚从利马赶到这儿
We arrived here last night from Lima,
我注意到的第一件事是
and the first thing I noticed is that
库斯科真是赏心悦目
Cusco is a feast for the eyes.
令人目不暇接
There’s so much to see.
当地人都穿着美丽
All the locals are dressed in these beautiful fabrics, and
建筑也是令人叫绝
the architecture is absolutely incredible.
我感觉到的第一件事情是海拔
The first thing I noticed was the altitude because
因为安第斯山脉是除了喜马拉雅山脉之外 世界上最高的山脉
the Andes are the highest mountain range in the world, after the Himalaya.
我注意到的第二件事是建筑物
The second thing I noticed are the buildings
虽然他们看起来像是西班牙风格的
because although they look Spanish,
却是用印加的石材建造的
they are built with Inca stones,
我们现在所在的武器广场
and the Plaza de Armas where we are right now
仍是这座城市的中心 也曾是印加首都的中心
still the center of the city was also the center of the Inca capital.
一言以蔽之 可以说库斯科有许多层面
So in short Cusco has many layers.
但是我们会尽力
We’re going to do our best to explore all
将这座最古老的城市一探究竟
of them starting with the oldest,
曼科·卡帕克在六百多年前
the foundation of the city by Manco Capac
建了这座城市 但是在我们进行探索之前
over six hundred years ago, but before we do,
先普及一些印加的知识
here’s what you need to know about the Inca.
印加文明是秘鲁最著名的本土文化
The Incas are the most well known of Peru’s indigenous cultures,
但是印加文化真的是离现代最近的
but they’re really just the most recent of many.
有以针织品而著名的帕拉卡斯
There were the Parcas famous for their textiles.
以沙漠优美的曲线闻名的纳斯卡
The Nazca famous for the lines in the desert,
以及600年前印加王朝巩固统治前
and the countless others who battled for control of the Andes before the Inca
为掌控安第斯山脉而征战的无数城镇
solidified their rule six hundred years ago.
根据传说 12世纪印加第一位国王
According to legend, in the 12th century the first Inca King,
曼科·卡帕克
Manco Capac,
被地位最高的神——太阳神印蒂派来执行任务
was sent on a mission by the Sun God, Inti, the supreme deity
寻找地球的中心
to find the navel of the earth or Qosq’o
库斯克 西班牙语是Quechua
in Quechua, Cusco in Spanish.
他建立了这个城市
He founded a city
超过十一个印加帝王都以此为首都
that would be the capital of eleven more Inca emperors.
印加王国以首都库斯科为起点
From the capital of Cusco, the Inca Empire stretched from modern-day
领土从现代的哥伦比亚一直延伸到智利和阿根廷
Colombia all the way down to Chile and Argentina.
这里富产金和银
It was rich in gold and silver,
这里的能工巧匠创造了美洲最美的
and its skilled artisans created some
最昂贵的工艺品
of the most beautiful and valuable artwork in the Americas.
印加的黄金时代
The Golden Age
仅持续了100年到1532年
of the Inca lasted just a hundred years until 1532
随着西班牙征服者弗朗西斯科·皮萨罗的到来而结束
with the arrival of Spanish conquistador, Francisco Pizarro
他带来了170人 27匹马和一门炮
who with 170 men, 27 horses, and a single cannon
抓住了印加国王阿塔瓦尔帕并索要高昂的赎金
captured the Inca Emperor, Atahualpa, and demanded a ransom so high
为赎回国王 印加不得不拆除包裹着精美寺庙的珍贵的黄金
that the Inca had to strip their beautiful temples of its precious gold.
后来皮萨罗还是杀害了阿塔瓦尔帕
After all that Pizarro killed Atahualpa anyway.
西班牙人对印加的征服
The Spanish conquest of the Inca is one
是历史上最悲惨的一幕
of the saddest chapters in history,
不仅屠杀 镇压了数以千计的人
not only the slaughter and subjugation of countless thousands of people,
还全面毁灭了目前世人能见到的最先进的文化
but the systematic eradication of one of the most advanced cultures the world has ever seen.
但是还幸存一些
But not all was lost.
现在的秘鲁是印加和西班牙传统的融合
Modern Peru is a fusion of Inca and Spanish traditions,
其文化通过
and the culture is kept alive
古代印加的语言 盖丘亚语 得以保留下来
through the ancient Inca language, Quechua,
库斯科的大部分人仍然在说这种语言
still spoken by the majority of people here in Cusco.
我们学几句日常用语 嗨 你好吗？
Here are some useful phrases: Hello, how are you?
请
Por favor
谢谢
Gracias
好的 我们上车了
Okay, so we’ve hopped in the car.
我们驱车驶出了库斯科
We’ve driven up and out of Cusco,
现在我们在萨克萨瓦曼城堡
and right now we’re at the fortress of Saqsaywaman.
如果你记不住怎么发音
If you can’t remember how to pronounce it,
就想着“性感女人”的发音
just think”sexy woman.”
这是盖丘亚语
But it’s a Quechua word.
这是一座城堡
Basically, this was a citadel
是专门用来保护库斯科的
designed to protect the city of Cusco, and
在我们身后 你可以看到大约20%的残留城堡
what you see behind us is now about 20 % of what remained.
到处都是这些巨石墙
There’re these huge stone walls everywhere,
这些建筑和印加建筑
and one of the most impressive things about
给人印象最深的是
this building and about all of the Inca
它们都是由这些巨大的石块建成的
construction is that they have these massive stones,
有的石块重达两百吨
some of them up to 200 tons each,
石块彼此贴合非常紧密 之间没有填充灰浆
and they all fit together perfectly, so closely without mortar
连一张纸都塞不进去
that you can actually not even put a piece of paper between them.
我们要查看一下整个城堡
We’re going to go check out the entire fortress.
周围有许多的小路
There’s lots of little trails going around.
那里有一个观景点 但是正如马尔科所说
There’s a viewpoint over there, but the most impressive part,
给人印象深刻的就是这个城堡的建造
like Marko said, of this fortress is the construction of it.
雷雨快来了
We have rain and thunder on the way.
这在安第斯山脉很常见
It’s just part of being in the Andes.
这些巨大的石块
These huge giant stones
彼此重叠或者咬合在一起
that sit and slide perfectly in with one another and
正如你所说的 中间没填充灰浆 真的是十分惊人
like you said no mortar. So it’s pretty incredible.
事实上 最让人难以置信的事情是
Actually, the most incredible thing about all this…
亚历克斯 老实说
let’s be real, Alex.
这里有羊驼在悠闲漫步
There are just alpacas wandering this this area.
我都想去摸一下这些羊驼
I want to go pet the alpaca.
可能会踢到你的脸
You can get kicked in the face.
我的确想来这种真的让我感兴趣的地方
You know, coming to a place like this really sparks my interest.
在大学时我曾研究过印加文化
I studied the Inca in college,
离现在已有许多年了
and it’s been a long time,
但我一直想要来秘鲁
but I’ve always wanted to come to
亲眼看一看
Peru and see this place for myself.
就是看一看这些石块
And just taking a look at these stones,
你就可以感到当时的文化有多么的先进
you get a sense of how advanced the civilization was
尽管他们并没有很多
even though they didn’t have a lot
我们认为在先进文化中
of the things that we take as
所必须的东西
necessities for advanced civilization.
他们没有铁 没有钢
Yeah, they had no iron; they had no steel;
没有轮子
they had didn’t have the wheel.
而且他们甚至在没有书面语言的情况下
And they accomplished all these things
建造了庞大的道路交通系统
from building a huge vast communication system
完成了所有这些工程
of roads all without even the written language.
他们确实是通过“结绳”和多个奔跑者接力来实现交流
But they did communicate through these things called”quipus” and a series of runners.
印加王国的某一个部落
There was a certain tribe that was part
被选出来充当奔跑者的角色
of their empire that was chosen to be the runners.
他们能够跑完难以置信的距离
They were able to run insane distances, and they would communicate
在他们广阔的帝国上使用“结绳”进行交流 即在绳子上打的一些结
throughout their vast empire using the”quipus,” which was a series of knots on these ropes
可以传递出比如丰收 不同省份的税收这些信息
that could communicate information like harvests, taxes brought in in different provinces.
就当时的管理水平而言……真的是相当棒
And it’s pretty crazy.. the level of administration that they had.
他们当时修的那些路现在还在
And all the roads that they built back then still exist today.
就像在罗马……条条大路通罗马
Just like in Rome… all roads led to Rome;
条条大路通库斯科
all roads led to Cusco.
我觉得“美洲的罗马”是比较合理的说法
So a fair statement the Rome of the Americas, I think.
好的 我们又回到了库斯科
All right well we’ve made it back into Cusco.
我们现在在历史中心广场
We’re in the centro historico,
我们来这儿吃午饭 我们要在哪儿吃饭呢 兄弟？
and we’re here for lunch. Where’re we eating, Bro?
我们要在Chicha就餐
We’re eating at Chicha.
这是秘鲁最著名的厨师Gaston Acurio开的餐馆
This is a restaurant from Peru’s most famous chef, Gaston Acurio,
基本上采用周边地区的当地食材
and it basically uses local ingredients from the surrounding area.
现在是2:00……秘鲁的午饭时间
So two o’clock.. lunch time in Peru.
午饭我们点了一些传统的秘鲁菜
For lunch we’ve ordered some traditional Peruvian dishes.
我们吃了点儿土豆饼 就是土豆裹着馅儿
We have some papas rellanas, which are basically stuffed potatoes.
他们把碎肉
They have carne picada that are
比如牛肉馅儿包在土豆饼里
like ground beef inside of them,
然后在外面裹上面用油炸
and then they’re breaded and fried.
我们点了酸汁腌鱼 有点奇怪
We have a ceviche, little twist on it.
是鳟鱼而不是特有的海鱼腌的
It’s got a trout instead of the typical ocean fishes.
这里有点试吃样品
And then we have this little sampler right here,
是各种传统肉制品
which has all sorts of traditional meats.
我甚至都不知道是什么肉 这是什么？
I don’t even know what they are. What are they?
这家餐馆的理念是所有的东西……
The idea behind the restaurant is that everything…
在秘鲁有各种各样的Chichas
There’re various Chichas around Peru, and each one takes
每一家都只从周围获取食材
ingredients only from the surrounding area.
这些菜里的每样东西或者是来自库斯科或者是来自周围的山谷
Everything on these plates here is either from Cusco or the surrounding valley.
例如 这个腌鱼是
For example, the ceviche uses
河鱼鳟鱼做的而不是用海鲈鱼做的
trout which is a river fish rather than sea bass from the ocean,
这是配了些木薯的热菜
and it’s served warm with some yuca.
顺便说一下 我们的团队
And by the way, we’re joined by
加入了第四位成员 达伦
the fourth member of our group, Darren,
他来这里帮我们拍VR视频
who’s here to help us with VR.
跟大家问个好 大家好
Say hi. Hi.
他来这里帮我们拍马丘比丘的VR视频
And so he’ll be helping us with the VR shoot in Machu Picchu,
但是现在是午饭时间了
but for now it’s lunch time.
就是最好的菜
That’s the winner.
我觉得这盘菜不是来自周边地区的
I think this dish does not come from the surrounding area
因为太好吃了 应该来自天堂
because it comes from heaven, and it’s so good.
午饭结束了
Lunch is over, so back to the story
回来接着讲西班牙征服印加王国的故事
of the Spanish conquest of the Inca.
当西班牙人来的时候 印加王国已经做好被占领的准备了
When the Spanish arrived, the Inca Empire was primed for conquest.
印加刚刚结束了一场残酷的内战
They had just finished a brutal civil war, and Atahualpa,
印加国王阿塔瓦尔帕露宿在卡哈玛卡
the Inca Emperor, was camped out at Cajamarca.
皮萨罗来了 捉住了他
When Pizarro came, he captured him
通过欺骗的手段将他当人质关押
through a combination of trickery and deceit and held him hostage.
赎金是将他的牢房填满黄金及两倍的白银
The ransom: his prison cell filled once over with gold and twice over with silver.
为了付这笔赎金
To pay that ransom,
国王派手下人带皮萨罗的人
he sent his men along with some of Pizarro’s
前往这里——太阳神庙
here to the Temple of the Sun.
这座建筑是
This building is all the remains
太阳神庙Coricancha的残留物
of a Temple of the Sun, Coricancha,
盖丘亚语意思是金矿 因为这座庙裹着一层金
Quechua for Golden Patio because it was literally covered
墙 地板 天花板
in gold- the walls, the floors, the ceilings,
甚至还有实物大小的金羊驼和美洲驼
even life-size golden alpacas and llamas.
但是皮萨罗索要的赎金太高了
But Pizarro’s ransom was so high
为了还赎金 印加人必须拆除
that to pay the price the Inca had to strip and
毁掉他们最神圣的庙宇外层黄金
defile their holiest temple of its gold.
然而尽管如此 皮萨罗还是没有遵守诺言 杀害了阿塔瓦尔帕国王
Then when they did, Pizarro broke his word and killed Atahualpa.
而且雪上加霜的是
And to add insult to injury,
他夺走了神庙 将它变成了天主教修道院
he took their holiest temple and converted it into a Catholic convent.
从此印加王国开始走向灭亡
And that was the beginning of the end of the Inca Empire.
这是Coricancha太阳神庙的遗迹
This is all that’s remaining of the Coricancha Temple of the Sun.
你可以看出这儿的建筑物让人称奇
You can see the architecture here is incredible,
如果建筑师来了
and supposedly architects have come.
他们也不知道印加人是怎么建成如此完美的建筑的
They still don’t know exactly how they made it so perfect,
这有一扇窗
but there’s a window here
这些窗排成一条线贯穿整个建筑
that lines up through the entire building,
绝对完美
absolutely perfectly.
探索库斯科的这一天是不可思议的
Been an incredible day exploring Cusco, and
老实说 一天远远不够
honestly one day is not even close to enough.
这座城市有这么多的故事 这么多的历史层面
This city has so many stories, so many layers of history.
每个小巷道 铺着鹅卵石的街道都是一次新的探险
Every little alley-way and cobblestone lined street is a new adventure,
我们还要回来
and we need to come back.
然而现在我们要离开了
Well, we’re not leaving yet.
我知道我们改天还会来 但是我现在已经想回来了
I know another day here, but I still want to come back already.
回想一下第一天
Bringing it back though to the first observation
看到这个“美洲的罗马”
of the day of this being the Rome of the Americas,
我的确认为这个城市更像伊斯坦布尔
I’d actually say I think it’s more like Istanbul
因为你知道伊斯坦布尔曾经信仰基督教
because you know Istanbul had the Christian layer,
然后穆斯林来了
and then the Muslims came and
夺走他们美丽的教堂
they took all their beautiful churches
把教堂变成清真寺
and turned into mosques. They left the churches
保留下了教堂里的艺术品
preserved with the art that was inside of them,
看着这座美丽的城市 太美了
and I look at this beautiful city, and it is extremely beautiful.
我的确希望
I do kind of wish that
他们也保留一些印加建筑的原样
they had left some of the Inca buildings as they were
除了将它们变成教堂以外
– except converted them into into churches.
虽然教堂也很美 你一定知道有些东西丢了
Although the churches are beautiful, you definitely know that there was something lost.
对 历史上最拙劣的一件事情就是
For sure. One of the biggest travesties
破坏印加文化
of all time was the destruction of the Inca culture, but
但是还有一点希望
there is some hope there
因为住在这的人们仍然沿袭自己的文化
because the people who live here still practice their culture;
仍然说着自己的语言
they still speak their language;
穿着传统的服装 庆祝传统的节日
they still dress in traditional clothing, and they celebrate traditional festivals.
我觉得这样的结局还是有积极的一面的
I think that there is a positive note at the end of all of this, and now
现在形成了这样一种
it’s kind of all blended into
只能在这里看到的独特而美丽的文化
this very beautiful unique culture that you can only really find here.
但是你会不停地想……当时可能会什么样呢？
But you will never stop to wonder…what could have been?
如果两个不同的文化在一起 而保持原封不动又会如何呢？
What if there have been two separate cultures living together intact?
让我们在评论区看到你们的想法
On that note, let us know your thoughts down in the comment section.
如果你喜欢这个视频 给我们一个大大的赞吧
If you enjoyed this video, give it a big thumbs- up,
分享给你的朋友们 如果你还没有订阅我们的频道
share with your friends, subscribe and turn on notifications
请订阅 并继续关注
if you haven’t already.
保持好奇 继续探索
Stay curious, keep exploring,
明天我们去库斯科
and we’ll see you guys tomorrow in Cusco
然后我们去马丘比丘 别走开继续观看
and then later on Machu Picchu. Stay tuned.
再见
Paz.