如何喂养一个城市？
How do you feed a city?
这是我们这个时代的一个重大问题之一。
It’s one of the great questions of our time.
然而很少人会问这个问题。
Yet it’s one that’s rarely asked.
我们习以为常了， 我们走进商店的时候
We take it for granted that if we go into a shop
走进餐厅的时候，或是一个小时后我们进入这个剧院的门厅
or restaurant, or indeed into this theater’s foyer in about an hour’s time,
总会有食物等着我们
there is going to be food there waiting for us,
它们很神奇地从某个地方冒出来
having magically come from somewhere.
然而，当你想像每一天，在一个伦敦那么大的城市，
But when you think that every day for a city the size of London,
要生产足够的食物
enough food has to be produced,
运输、交易这些食物，
transported, bought and sold,
烹饪，食用，最后扔弃它们
cooked, eaten, disposed of,
而且类似的事情每天都发生着
and that something similar has to happen every day
在地球上的每一个城市都如此
for every city on earth,
每个城市都有食物供应，这件事很不可思议
it’s remarkable that cities get fed at all.
我们住在每天有食物供应的城市，仿佛
We live in places like this as if
这是世界上最自然的事情，
they’re the most natural things in the world,
我们忘记了我们也是动物，
forgetting that because we’re animals
所以我们需要进食，
and that we need to eat,
事实上我们要依赖自然界
we’re actually as dependent on the natural world
就如同我们的祖先要依赖自然界一样。
as our ancient ancestors were.
随着我们越来越多人到城市生活，
And as more of us move into cities,
越来越多的自然界正在
more of that natural world is being
变成我身后的这些特别的景象
transformed into extraordinary landscapes like the one behind me —
这是巴西Mata Grosso的大豆田
it’s soybean fields in Mato Grosso in Brazil —
用来种食物养活我们
in order to feed us.
这些特别的景象
These are extraordinary landscapes,
我们很少人亲眼目睹过
but few of us ever get to see them.
越来越多的这些地貌
And increasingly these landscapes
不只是生产食物养活我们
are not just feeding us either.
随着我们越来越多人移居城市
As more of us move into cities,
越来越多人吃肉
more of us are eating meat,
所以每年全球有三分之一的粮食
so that a third of the annual grain crop globally
现在是用来喂动物
now gets fed to animals
而不是喂养我们人类
rather than to us human animals.
虽然说需要3倍的粮食
And given that it takes three times as much grain —
事实上却是10倍的食物
actually ten times as much grain —
来喂养一个人，如果从喂养动物的粮食也计算在内
to feed a human if it’s passed through an animal first,
这并不是一个很有效率的喂养方式
that’s not a very efficient way of feeding us.
这是一个越来越重要的问题
And it’s an escalating problem too.
到2050年,预测有两倍的人口
By 2050, it’s estimated that twice the number
将在城市居住
of us are going to be living in cities.
预测到也将需要两倍的
And it’s also estimated that there is going to be twice as much
肉和奶类制品的消耗
meat and dairy consumed.
所以肉的消耗和城市化是共同发展的
So meat and urbanism are rising hand in hand.
这就将引发一个很重大的问题
And that’s going to pose an enormous problem.
要喂养60亿的饥饿人口
Six billion hungry carnivores to feed,
在2050年
by 2050.
这是个大问题.如果我们还像我们现在这么发展,
That’s a big problem. And actually if we carry on as we are,
我们很可能没法在2050年解决这个问题
it’s a problem we’re very unlikely to be able to solve.
每年有1900万公顷的雨林消失
Nineteen million hectares of rainforest are lost every year
它们用作开垦新的耕地
to create new arable land.
尽管与此同时我们也失去等量的
Although at the same time we’re losing an equivalent amount
现有耕地,因为盐碱化或水土流失
of existing arables to salinization and erosion.
我们也急需化石燃料
We’re very hungry for fossil fuels too.
在欧洲，我们需要10卡路里的能量来生产1卡路里
It takes about 10 calories to produce every calorie
为我们消耗的食物
of food that we consume in the West.
尽管这些食物我们都是花了很多功夫才生产出来
And even though there is food that we are producing at great cost,
事实上我们却不珍惜它们
we don’t actually value it.
在美国有一半食物被扔弃
Half the food produced in the USA is currently thrown away.
最终,在这漫长过程的最后
And to end all of this, at the end of this long process,
我们将没法养活我们这个地球
we’re not even managing to feed the planet properly.
我们中10亿人肥胖,还有多于10亿的人处于饥饿中
A billion of us are obese, while a further billion starve.
这些都没有道理
None of it makes very much sense.
当你发现现在80%的全球食物贸易
And when you think that 80 percent of global trade in food now
仅由五家跨国公司控制,
is controlled by just five multinational corporations,
这是挺可怕的
it’s a grim picture.
随着我们搬进城市,世界正在接受西方的饮食
As we’re moving into cities, the world is also embracing a Western diet.
如果我们展望未来
And if we look to the future,
这不是个可持续的饮食方式
it’s an unsustainable diet.
我们怎么会走到这一步?
So how did we get here?
更重要的是,我们应该怎么做?
And more importantly, what are we going to do about it?
先回答那个较简单的问题,首先
Well, to answer the slightly easier question first,
我想说,在大概1万年前
about 10,000 years ago, I would say,
是这个过程的开始
is the beginning of this process
在古代的中东地区
in the ancient Near East,
也就是广大的新月状的地区
known as the Fertile Crescent.
因为你可以看到它是新月形的
Because, as you can see, it was crescent shaped.
同时它也是广大的
And it was also fertile.
就在这里,大概1万年前
And it was here, about 10,000 years ago,
2大伟大的发明
that two extraordinary inventions,
农业和城市化在此发生
agriculture and urbanism, happened
几乎在同时,同一地点
roughly in the same place and at the same time.
这并不是偶然
This is no accident,
因为农业和城市是紧密联系的.它们需要彼此
because agriculture and cities are bound together. They need each other.
因为粮食的发现
Because it was discovery of grain
我们的远古祖先,第一次
by our ancient ancestors for the first time
第一次生产出足够的粮食
that produced a food source that was large enough
并且产量稳地，这帮助他们长期居住下来
and stable enough to support permanent settlements.
如果我们看一下当时那些居住地
And if we look at what those settlements were like,
我们可以看到他们是紧密的
we see they were compact.
他们被农田围绕
They were surrounded by productive farm land
并由一些大的庙宇统领着
and dominated by large temple complexes
例如这一个在乌尔的神殿
like this one at Ur,
事实上,他们是很有效的
that were, in fact, effectively,
精神统领,食物分发中心，两者结合
spiritualized, central food distribution centers.
因为这些神殿组织耕作
Because it was the temples that organized the harvest,
收集这些粮食,供奉给诸神
gathered in the grain, offered it to the gods,
然后把诸神没吃的食物发还给人们
and then offered the grain that the gods didn’t eat back to the people.
所以
So, if you like,
这些城市的精神和物质生活
the whole spiritual and physical life of these cities
都用粮食和收成掌控
was dominated by the grain and the harvest
并维持城市的生活
that sustained them.
事实上，过去的每个城市都是如此
And in fact, that’s true of every ancient city.
当然，并不是每个都是那么小的城市
But of course not all of them were that small.
比如很著名的罗马城有大约100万居民
Famously, Rome had about a million citizens
在公元一世纪的之前
by the first century A.D.
那么，这样的城市是如何维持供给的呢？
So how did a city like this feed itself?
在我眼里，我把答案称作“古老的城市之路”
The answer is what I call “ancient food miles.”
基本上，罗马有通往海洋的道路
Basically, Rome had access to the sea,
这样使从很远的地方进口食物成为可能
which made it possible for it to import food from a very long way away.
这样是在古代能实现的唯一的方法
This is the only way it was possible to do this in the ancient world,
因为陆上运输相当困难
because it was very difficult to transport food over roads,
鉴于路况不好
which were rough.
而且食物的消耗是很快的
And the food obviously went off very quickly.
所以罗马常常发动战争
So Rome effectively waged war
攻打像迦太基和埃及那样的国家
on places like Carthage and Egypt
仅仅是为了得到他们的粮食储备
just to get its paws on their grain reserves.
其实，事实上，你可以把帝国的扩张
And, in fact, you could say that the expansion of the Empire
理解为一种长期的
was really sort of one long, drawn out
军事化的购物狂欢
militarized shopping spree, really.
（笑）
(Laughter)
事实上，我喜欢这个事实。我不得不指出的是
In fact — I love the fact, I just have to mention this:
罗马（从英国进口牡蛎）
Rome in fact used to import oysters from London,
在一个时期。我认为这非常特别
at one stage. I think that’s extraordinary.
所以罗马形成自己的海岸线
So Rome shaped its hinterland
根据他的口味
through its appetite.
但是还有一件有趣的事情
But the interesting thing is that the other thing also
发生在前工业化的世界
happened in the pre-industrial world.
如果我们看看十七世纪伦敦的地图
If we look at a map of London in the 17th century,
我们可以看见作物从泰晤士河畔出产的
we can see that its grain, which is coming in from the Thames,
位于地图的底部
along the bottom of this map.
因为市场在城市的南部
So the grain markets were to the south of the city.
道路从那里
And the roads leading up from them
通向主要消费市场戚普塞街(位于伦敦)
to Cheapside, which was the main market,
这里也是粮食的主要消费市场
were also grain markets.
如果我们随便看看这里的一条街道的名字
And if you look at the name of one of those streets,
BREAD（面包）街，你可以明白
Bread Street, you can tell
三百年前这里都发生了什么
what was going on there 300 years ago.
这个道理同样使用于鱼类
And the same of course was true for fish.
鱼当然是从河里面打捞出来的
Fish was, of course, coming in by river as well. Same thing.
Billlingsgate是伦敦有名的卖鱼市场
And of course Billingsgate, famously, was London’s fish market,
在1980年之前
operating on-site here until the mid-1980s.
这是很特别的，真的，当你仔细想想
Which is extraordinary, really, when you think about it.
每个人都在这里游荡
Everybody else was wandering around
拿着像转头一样的大哥大
with mobile phones that looked like bricks
还有，在港口还有发臭的鱼
and sort of smelly fish happening down on the port.
这是在城市中关于食物的另一件事情
This is another thing about food in cities:
一旦一种食物在某个城市站稳脚跟
Once its roots into the city are established,
它的地位很难被动摇
they very rarely move.
肉是一个非常不同的故事了
Meat is a very different story
因为，动物自己走向城市
because, of course, animals could walk into the city.
因此，伦敦消费的大量肉类
So much of London’s meat
是从西北方过来的
was coming from the northwest,
从苏格兰和威尔士
from Scotland and Wales.
当他们过来，抵达城市的西北方
So it was coming in, and arriving at the city at the northwest,
这就说明了为什么 Smithfield
which is why Smithfield,
伦敦一个非常有名的肉类市场，在这里产生
London’s very famous meat market, was located up there.
家禽从Anglia的东部来，去往东北部
Poultry was coming in from East Anglia and so on, to the northeast.
我感觉这有点像一个天气播报员
I feel a bit like a weather woman doing this. Anyway,
然后鸟儿都飞过来了
and so the birds were coming in
它们的脚被小帆布鞋包裹着
with their feet protected with little canvas shoes.
然后当它们在东部降落的时候
And then when they hit the eastern end
具体说来是在戚普塞街，也就是它们被卖掉的地方
of Cheapside, that’s where they were sold,
这也就是戚普塞街被称为“家禽”街的原因
which is why it’s called Poultry.
事实上，如果你看看任何一个城市的地图
And, in fact, if you look at the map of any city
在工业化时代之前
built before the industrial age,
你能够发现食物是如何进入城市的
you can trace food coming in to it.
事实上，你可以看出食物是如何塑造一个城市的
You can actually see how it was physically shaped by food,
通过阅读街道的名称，你就会发现很多线索
both by reading the names of the streets, which give you a lot of clues.
星期五街，在过去的日子中
Friday Street, in a previous life,
是一个在星期五买鱼的地方
is where you went to buy your fish on a Friday.
但是，你同时也必须想象那里到处都是食物
But also you have to imagine it full of food.
因为街道和公共区域
Because the streets and the public spaces
是食物买卖的唯一地点
were the only places where food was bought and sold.
如果你想象一下1830年的Smithfield
And if we look at an image of Smithfield in 1830
你会发现很难在这样一个城市里面生活下去
you can see that it would have been very difficult to live in a city like this
并且不留意食物的来源
and be unaware of where your food came from.
事实上，当你在星期日吃午饭的时候
In fact, if you were having Sunday lunch,
你将很有可能听到窗外的牛羊的叫声
the chances were it was mooing or bleating outside your window
在三年以前
about three days earlier.
因此，显然他是一个有机城市
So this was obviously an organic city,
属于有机循环中的一个部分
part of an organic cycle.
但是，10年后，一切都改变了
And then 10 years later everything changed.
这是大西铁路在1840的照片
This is an image of the Great Western in 1840.
你可以看见，一些早期的铁路乘客们
And as you can see, some of the earliest train passengers
是猪和羊群
were pigs and sheep.
一夕之间，这些动物不再走进市场
So all of a sudden, these animals are no longer walking into market.
他们被屠宰了
They’re being slaughtered out of sight and mind,
在乡村的某个地方
somewhere in the countryside.
然后他们通过铁路来到了城市
And they’re coming into the city by rail.
这些改变了一切
And this changes everything.
首先，他第一次
To start off with, it makes it possible
使城市成长变成了可能
for the first time to grow cities,
不论地点、成为什么规模和形状的城市
really any size and shape, in any place.
城市发展过去受到地理的限制
Cities used to be constrained by geography;
城市需要通过很艰难的方式获得食物
they used to have to get their food through very difficult physical means.
突然，他们从地理限制中解放了出来
All of a sudden they are effectively emancipated from geography.
你可以看看伦敦的地图
And as you can see from these maps of London,
在铁路建成后的90年
in the 90 years after the trains came,
它从容易喂饱的一小点
it goes from being a little blob that was quite easy to feed
通过动物步行到市场等方式
by animals coming in on foot, and so on,
成长成为大型的奢侈的大都市
to a large splurge,
步行运输再也不能喂饱每个人
that would be very, very difficult to feed with anybody on foot,
不论是对人还是对动物
either animals or people.
当然，这仅仅是开始。当汽车代替了火车
And of course that was just the beginning. After the trains came cars,
这真正标志这个过程的结束
and really this marks the end of this process.
这是城市的最终解放
It’s the final emancipation of the city
从自然的束缚中完全的解放了
from any apparent relationship with nature at all.
这样类型的城市没有了原来城市的味道
And this is the kind of city that’s devoid of smell,
乱糟糟的市容，当然也缺少了人
devoid of mess, certainly devoid of people,
因为没有人想要在这么大的一块地方步行
because nobody would have dreamed of walking in such a landscape.
事实上，他们都开小汽车去购买食物了
In fact, what they did to get food was they got in their cars,
开车去郊外的超级市场
drove to a box somewhere on the outskirts,
买回来一周需要的食物
came back with a week’s worth of shopping,
然后考虑到底如何规划这些食品
and wondered what on earth to do with it.
这时刻，
And this really is the moment when our relationship,
食物和城市的关系，完全的改变了
both with food and cities, changes completely.
过去买食物是在市中心
Here we have food — that used to be the center,
在城市的最核心地带
the social core of the city — at the periphery.
买卖食物曾经是一种社会性的活动，
It used to be a social event, buying and selling food.
现在都是匿名了的
Now it’s anonymous.
我们原来还需要烹饪，现在我们只需要加水
We used to cook; now we just add water,
或者是一些鸡蛋，当我们在做蛋糕或者其他东西的时候
or a little bit of an egg if you’re making a cake or something.
我们不会在去闻闻食物来确认它是否可以吃了
We don’t smell food to see if it’s okay to eat.
我们只是阅读包装袋上的使用说明就好
We just read the back of a label on a packet.
我们没有发现食物的价值，我们也不信赖它
And we don’t value food. We don’t trust it.
我们甚至担心它
So instead of trusting it, we fear it.
从体会它的价值变成浪费
And instead of valuing it, we throw it away.
当今食品工业最最讽刺的是
One of the great ironies of modern food systems
他们让生活极致地便利
is that they’ve made the very thing they promised
却也使得一切更为复杂
to make easier much harder.
因为可以自由的建立新城市
By making it possible to build cities anywhere and any place,
但是他们却疏远了人可贵的联系
they’ve actually distanced us from our most important relationship,
也就是人与自然的联系
which is that of us and nature.
同时，他们也让我们依赖这个系统
And also they’ve made us dependent on systems that only they can deliver,
这个系统，在我们看来，是不可持续的
that, as we’ve seen, are unsustainable.
所以，我们应该做点什么呢？
So what are we going to do about that?
这不是一个新的问题
It’s not a new question.
500年前，汤马斯摩尔曾经问过自己
500 years ago it’s what Thomas More was asking himself.
这是他的书《乌托邦》的主旨
This is the frontispiece of his book “Utopia.”
它是一个半独立的城邦
And it was a series of semi-independent city-states,
如果这么说听上去还比较熟悉的话
if that sounds remotely familiar,
一天的行走你会看见所有人农场都在疯狂的种植
a day’s walk from one another where everyone was basically farming-mad,
或者在自己的后院种植蔬菜
and grew vegetables in their back gardens,
然后一起享用乡镇的共有食物，等等
and ate communal meals together, and so on.
我认为你可能想要说
And I think you could argue that
食物是乌托邦维持秩序的基础
food is a fundamental ordering principle of Utopia,
尽管摩尔从来没有这么构想
even though More never framed it that way.
这里有一个很著名的乌托邦蓝图
And here is another very famous “Utopian” vision,
来自埃比尼泽·霍华德的“花园城市”
that of Ebenezer Howard, “The Garden City.”
同样的想法。一系列半独立的城邦
Same idea: series of semi-independent city-states,
小型都市被可耕地包围
little blobs of metropolitan stuff with arable land around,
相互之间通过铁路连接
joined to one another by railway.
当然，食物在一次被称作
And again, food could be said to be
维持秩序的物体，在他的版本中
the ordering principle of his vision.
这些田园都市是有的，但与当初
It even got built, but nothing to do with
霍华的愿景没有关系
this vision that Howard had.
这也与乌托邦的构想产生了冲突
And that is the problem with these Utopian ideas,
因为他们是乌托邦（不存在的）
that they are Utopian.
乌托邦实际是上一个托马斯摩尔故意使用的一个词
Utopia was actually a word that Thomas Moore used deliberately.
这似乎是一个笑话。因为它在希腊中有两个来历
It was a kind of joke, because it’s got a double derivation from the Greek.
他既可以表示一个好的地方，也可以表示一个不存在的地方
It can either mean a good place, or no place.
因为他是一种理想。一个想象中的事物。我们不能拥有它
Because it’s an ideal. It’s an imaginary thing. We can’t have it.
我认为，这是一个观念
And I think, as a conceptual tool
用来深层次的思考人类居住的问题
for thinking about the very deep problem of human dwelling,
它不是很有用
that makes it not much use.
所以我提出另一个概念
So I’ve come up with an alternative,
“希托邦”，在古希腊文中
which is Sitopia, from the ancient Greek,
“希托”代表食物，“邦”是地方
“sitos” for food, and “topos” for place.
我相信我们已经住在“希托邦”里面
I believe we already live in Sitopia.
这个世界是受食物影响的
We live in a world shaped by food,
只要认清楚这个事实，食物便能成为有力的工具
and if we realize that, we can use food as a really powerful tool —
一个概念性的工具，设计工具，用来改变这个世界
a conceptual tool, design tool, to shape the world differently.
如果这样做，希托邦会成什么样
So if we were to do that, what might Sitopia look like?
我是这样想的
Well I think it looks a bit like this.
我用投影这张照片，是因为这狗长相可爱
I have to use this slide. It’s just the look on the face of the dog.
无论如何，在这里（笑）
But anyway, this is — (Laughter)
食物是生活的重心
it’s food at the center of life,
是家庭生活的重心，被赞颂
at the center of family life, being celebrated,
被享用，你们花时间在这上面
being enjoyed, people taking time for it.
这是食物在我们社会里应有的地位
This is where food should be in our society.
但想做到这样，得先有这些人
But you can’t have scenes like this unless you have people like this.
他也可以是男的
By the way, these can be men as well.
这些人是会想到食物的
It’s people who think about food,
他们会预先思考，做计划
who think ahead, who plan,
看到一堆生菜时
who can stare at a pile of raw vegetables
知道那是什么
and actually recognize them.
我们需要这种人。我们都是整体的一部分
We need these people. We’re part of a network.
因为如果没有这样的人，就不会有这样的地方
Because without these kinds of people we can’t have places like this.
我故意选了这个因为这张照片显示一个人在买蔬菜
Here, I deliberately chose this because it is a man buying a vegetable.
但是整体联络，食物是当地生产的
But networks, markets where food is being grown locally.
他是大面积的，也是新鲜的
It’s common. It’s fresh.
这是城市社会生活的一部分
It’s part of the social life of the city.
因为没有它，你就不会拥有这样的地方
Because without that, you can’t have this kind of place,
种植食物的地方也是风景的一部分
food that is grown locally and also is part of the landscape,
他不仅仅是一个消费商品
and is not just a zero-sum commodity
来自看不见的黑暗角落
off in some unseen hell-hole.
成片的牛群
Cows with a view.
冒着水汽的肥沃土壤
Steaming piles of humus.
这才使一切变得完整
This is basically bringing the whole thing together.
这是一个集体的计划
And this is a community project
我最近去了多伦多
I visited recently in Toronto.
在这个温室里，孩子学习
It’s a greenhouse, where kids get told
关于食物的知识，以及他们种植自己所需的食物
all about food and growing their own food.
这有一颗菜叫做凯文，他也许
Here is a plant called Kevin, or maybe it’s a
属于一个叫凯文的小孩子。我不太确定
plant belonging to a kid called Kevin. I don’t know.
但是不管怎么说，这类计划
But anyway, these kinds of projects
是及其重要的，因为他们试图重新建立我们和自然的联系
that are trying to reconnect us with nature is extremely important.
因此，希托邦，是另一种观点
So Sitopia, for me, is really a way of seeing.
基本上，我们认可在某些小地方
It’s basically recognizing that Sitopia
希托邦已经存在了
already exists in little pockets everywhere.
下一步就是将他们连接起来
The trick is to join them up,
从食物的角度看
to use food as a way of seeing.
如果我们这样做了，城市将不再是
And if we do that, we’re going to stop seeing cities
一个不从事生产的大都市，像现在一样
as big, metropolitan, unproductive blobs, like this.
我们将把城市
We’re going to see them more like this,
作为一个有机生产的一部分
as part of the productive, organic framework
在这种架构下，城乡之间
of which they are inevitably a part,
以一种共生的方式连接
symbiotically connected.
但这也不是什么大理论
But of course, that’s not a great image either,
因为我们不需要这样的食物产出方式了
because we need not to be producing food like this anymore.
我们需要更多的思考关于社区生态农业
We need to be thinking more about permaculture,
所以这张图
which is why I think this image just
很合适来做一个结论
sums up for me the kind of thinking we need to be doing.
我们需要重新思考
It’s a re-conceptualization
食物如何塑造我们的生活
of the way food shapes our lives.
我知道的最好的方式是这张650年前的画
The best image I know of this is from 650 years ago.
他是 Ambrogio Lorenzetti 提出的“优秀政府的寓言”
It’s Ambrogio Lorenzetti’s “Allegory of Good Government.”
他勾画出城市和乡村的关系
It’s about the relationship between the city and the countryside.
我认为他想传达的思想非常清晰
And I think the message of this is very clear.
如果城市照顾好乡村
If the city looks after the country,
乡村就会帮助城市
the country will look after the city.
我希望大家都想一想
And I want us to ask now,
如果Ambrigio Lorenzetti在今天再画一张
what would Ambrogio Lorenzetti paint
他会画出怎样的图画
if he painted this image today?
现代版“优秀政府的寓言”会是什么样子
What would an allegory of good government look like today?
因为我认为这是一个紧要的问题
Because I think it’s an urgent question.
一个我们必须提出的问题
It’s one we have to ask,
一个我们需要马上做答的问题
and we have to start answering.
我们知道我们吃的东西很大程度上决定了我们身体状况
We know we are what we eat.
所以，我们也了解我们的食物决定了世界的状况
We need to realize that the world is also what we eat.
如果我们采纳这个想法，我们可以利用食物
But if we take that idea, we can use food
作为一个强有力的工具来重新塑造世界
as a really powerful tool to shape the world better.
非常感谢
Thank you very much.
（掌声）
(Applause)