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手工制作重返美国

Bringing Handmade Back to America

这是对过去生产方式的颂歌
– It’s an ode to the way that things used to be made.
这不仅仅是一些被大规模生产出来
It’s not just somethingthat’s been mass produced
或是大规模流水线生产出来的东西
or put through a lineand made millions of.
我们手工制作它们的每个部分 一个一个做
We make them hand-by-hand,individually, each one.
肯定有更快的方式
There’s definitely faster ways.
有偷工减料的方法
There’s ways to cut corners.
但是我们怎样才能做东西不偷工减料呢?
But how do we make somethingwithout cutting any corners?
我们做东西的最佳方法是什么?
What’s the best way we can do it?
做到这点需要走很长的路
It’s a long way to do it.
同时也很艰辛
It’s a hard way to do it.
但是如果有方法可以做到完美
But if there’s a way to do it that way,
那么我们就要找到它
then we figure it out.
当你得到一个包
You can really see that in the quality
并拿着它时
of the bags when you get one,
你可以真实地看到它的品质
when you hold one.
手工制作:Lotuff 皮具
我叫琳迪·麦克多纳
My name is Lindy McDonough,
我在Lotuff皮具厂担任创意总监
and I am the Creative Director at Lotuff Leather.
我们这样在新英格兰长大的人
For us, we grew up in New England,
有大商标的包包
and I would get a bag one season.
我可能只用三个月
It would have a big logo on it.
然后过了半年 都不好意思把包拿出手了
And then two seasons later, you’d almost be embarrassed to have it.
但在新英格兰 我们一向不是这样的
And you know that’s not in New England how we grow up,
这不是我们拥有物品的方式
how we have goods.
你应该拥有那些
You know, you should have a thing that
可以传给下一代的
you can pass down to your next generation
那些会随着你的使用变得越来越美的东西
that’s gonna get more beautiful as you use it.
这也始终是我们公司的精髓
And that was always theethos for the company.
Triumph公文包外表看上去非常简约
The Triumph briefcase, from the outside, it looks very clean.
但是它实际上是一个工序复杂的包
But it’s actually a very complicated bag.
它是我们最难做的款式之一
It’s one of the mostdifficult bags that we make.
做出一个这样的包需要耗时四至六周
Takes about four to sixweeks to make each one.
我们不急于求成
There’s no rushing that.
每一只这款包都有大概61个独立的部分
And the bag has about 61individual pieces in each bag.
我们从切割平台开始
We start on the cutting table.
展开一卷皮革
We roll out a hide.
我们的皮革都来自一家家族制革厂
Our hides all come froma family-owned tannery.
我们用的皮革都是制革厂为我们定制的
Our leather is all made specially for us.
所有的皮革都是全植鞣皮
All of the leather isfully vegetable tanned,
所以从原料上就没有铬 没有甲醛
so no chromium, no formaldehyde,nothing in the base.
如果你有过一件皮具
If you’ve ever had apiece of leather goods
它的表皮随着时间的推移开始剥落
that over time starts to peel
中间出现白色物质 这说明
and there’s white that’s showing through,
确实皮革中存在某种化学物或者铬
that means that there’s actually some sort of chemical or chromium
从而导致皮革的腐蚀
inside the leather that’s causing it to rust.
我们所用的皮革就不会那样
Our leather won’t do that.
随着你的使用 皮质会变得更美丽更有光泽
It’ll get more beautifuland patina as you use it.
我们也在寻找皮革的瑕疵
You’re also looking forimperfections in the hide.
诸如蜱虫叮咬处 伤疤 开放切口 这样的地方
So tick bites, scars, opencuts, anything like that,
都要确保在流程开始前找到它们
just making sure at the beginningprocess that you find it.
保证用的都是完美的皮革
Make sure we don’t use it.
包包就开始制作了
The bags then go through
包袋的所有61个部分都是从一整张皮上切割下来的
and all 61 of those pieces are cut from one hide.
事实上有人负责整张皮革的切割布局
You’re actually gettingsomeone who laid out that cut
她会思考这块切下后它旁边应该怎么切
and then thought about what was the piece that’s going next to it
然后又会想接下来该怎么切
and then thought about the piece that was going next to that.
所有的部件都切割完成并单独编号
They all get cut andindividually numbered.
然后它们将会被分层
And then we’ll bring themover to the splitter.
分层就是使皮革变薄
Splitting is taking theleather and making it thinner.
包的每个部分重量都不同
We have different weightsfor every part of the bag.
从设计流程开始
From the design process too,
这点就是我们考虑良久的事情之一
it’s one of those things that we spend a lot of time thinking about,
比如这个地方可以变得更薄一点么?
like could this be a little bit thinner?
或者更厚一点?
Could this be thicker?
我们对每个单独的部件分别称重
We measure every single piece,
测量精度为十分之一盎司
and we measure it to actually the 10th of an ounce.
我们的确很关注每个部件的重量
We really do pay a lot of attention to the weight of every piece.
当所有部件都分层结束 下一步就是去到打磨工坊
Once everything is split, itgoes to the grinding station.
打磨工坊是所有部件打磨成型的地方
The grinding station is whereall of the pieces are shaped.
我们拿来所有的部件 然后直接打磨它们
We take all of the pieces, and we sand them straight.
所有部件都通过肉眼完成成型和打磨
All of those pieces are shaped and ground and done by eye.
这是我们所做的包不能自动化生产的原因之一
It’s one of those things of why what we do can’t be automated.
打磨工坊的下一步是上色工坊
From the grinding station itmoves to the painting station.
我们有四个人负责上色
We have about four people painting
每个人有每个人的工位
to every one person atevery other station.
因为我们用完全传统的做法
Because we do fully traditional,
皮革经过抛光后 画匠在基本部件的抛光边缘着色
burnished and polished edges, the painters get the ground pieces.
她们上完一层色
They paint a layer,
颜料的厚度事实上加深了皮革的纹理
and they essentially raise the grain of the leather
之后皮革又被带到抛光机来抛光
and then they bring itover to the buffing machine and then buff it.
然后他们又会回到染色工坊
And then they bring it back to the painting station
画匠们会再给边缘涂一层颜色
and then they paint another coat of edge dye
之后再抛光
and then they would buff it again.
所有的61个部件都会
And you’re going back and forth
重复这个步骤
with all 61 of those pieces
至少重复三次
at the minimum of three times,
有些甚至高达八次之多
and some of which, eight.
这就是我们聘请艺术家的原因
That’s why we hire artists.
她们有对东西的直觉
They have an eye for it,
她们会感觉出来这里还不够好
and they’re like, this is not right yet.
当她们觉得这部分够好了的时候她们才完工
And they will finish it until it’s right.
当我们这个生产工坊刚建立的时候
So when we started this space,this manufacturing space,
五年前 我们只有三个人
five years ago, we had three people,
现在我们已经有22个人了
and now we are at 22.
这相当棒
It’s pretty rad.
我们的Lotuff团队里有75%都是女性
Our team at Lotuff is 75% women.
这些人中的75%是35岁以下
75% of them are under the age of 35,
她们中的70%都拥有本科学历
and about 70% of themhave a Bachelor’s degree.
最大的困难总是你如何找到
Always the biggest struggle has been how do you find work
一个朝九晚五的
that you know you have a day job
来维持你作为艺术家生活的工作?
from nine to five that can support your life as an artist?
这一直是我们为Lotuff工作背后的愿景
And that was always the vision behind what we do for Lotuff.
我们有家具制造商珠宝设计师 印刷制作人 插画师 画师
We have furniture makers,jewelry designers, print makers, illustrators, painters.
为他们提供一份能发挥创意的工作
And so making a greatjob they could come in,
跟我们一起每周工作30小时
work with us 30 hours aweek,
有全套福利 健康保险 各种保险
get full benefits, health care, all of those benefits,
然后做他们工作室之外的练习
and then getting to do their studio practice outside of it
是一件非常了不起的事
is a really amazing thing
我们也因此得到了很多惊人的作品
and we get amazing work because of that.
这是我觉得我们的包如此与众不同的原因
And I think it’s what makes what goes into the bag so special.
在染色阶段与缝制阶段中间
In-between the painting phaseand the stitching phase,
每个包都有有一个小部件上面有包的编码和Lotuff的标志
there’s one piece in everybag that gets the bag number and the Lotuff logo.
然后这些部件被送到印花工坊
And so those pieces come tothe monogramming station.
我们会记录所有的编号
We log all of the numbers in our records.
我们知道哪些部件做过什么处理
We know what pieces were going through.
它是什么颜色 什么风格的
What color it was, what style it was,
与之相对应的编号是什么
and what number is correlated to that.
接下来就到了缝制的阶段
Then things go to stitching.
Triumph包所有的61个部件
So all 61 of those pieces
将会在第一级的缝制中
for the Triumph will get brought over
被连接到一起
and get the first level of stitching.
我们使用一种本地产的异常坚韧的线
We use a super strong thread that’s made by a local maker.
我们使所有用到的线会染上与皮革相匹配的颜色
We get all the thread dyed to match each one of the leather colors.
对于大多数的部件来说
For the most part,
每个部件都有它特定数量的针脚
every single one of the pieces has a specific amount of stitches
这是因为它们从边缘起的针脚宽度是特定的
that’s their stitch width fromthe edge is really specific.
每英寸的针脚数都是非常明确的
The amount of stitches perinch is really specific.
所有的这些都被预先考虑
All of that is considered,
之后它们会被带到线头处理工坊
and then they moved to the turn and burn station,
那是我们的手工缝制工坊
which is our hand-stitching station.
工匠们给线头手工打结 并燃烧
So they finish the thread witha hand-tied knot, burn it,
随后把多余线头塞回到它原来的孔洞里
and then tuck it back into the same hole where it came from
这样它就会固定 然后将皮革覆盖在上面
so it will actually hold and then close the leather over it.
实际上 线是在皮革内部缝合固定的
So it’s locking, essentially, that stitch inside of the leather.
手工缝制元素使我们的包非常特别
The hand stitching element is something that makes our bags pretty special.
手工缝制结束后
After it’s turned and burned,
我们又会回到染色和抛光
we’ll go back to painting and buffing.
之后所有部件将会进行组装
And then it would all go to assembly.
组装工坊是用粘合和组装的方式
Assembly station is where they are gluing
将包从一些二维零部件
and assembling the bags from
变成三维立体形状的过程
the two-dimensional piecesinto the three-dimensional.
这也有很多步骤
And there’s different levels of that.
他们将在所有连接部位
They will take all of the gussets
加上角撑并粘合它们
and all of the partitions, glue them,
然后锤击它
and then they hammer it.
包包会在各个工坊之间来回加工
There’s kind of a lot of back and forth
直到彻底完成
between those stations until it’s done.
它会再回去打磨 再上色
It goes back to grinding, and then back to painting,
然后再一次进行整个循环
and then does the full loop all the way again,
直到包包完工大概需要五个这样的循环
and it does that about five times before the bag is finished.
我们做的最后一件事是给包打上编码
The very last thing that wedo is monogramming the bags.
然后我们会手写一个便签
And then we hand-write a note, and
同时每个包里都会有一个卡片
then there’s a card that goes in every bag
上面会有这个包的编码
that has the bag number.
它被放入一个美丽的礼盒中
It’s put in a beautiful gift box.
那是这个包在寄出前的最后一步
That’s the last step beforethe bag is shipped out.
重要的是所有东西都是在这里制作完成的
It’s important thateverything is made here.
这关乎责任
It’s about accountability.
这是对我们客户的负责
It’s accountability to our customers.
这确保我们在做的产品
It’s making sure that we are doing things
是我们声称的那样
the way that we say that we’re doing it
并观察我们制作的每一步骤
and watching every step of the way.
如果不在这制作
And we really couldn’t do that
或不是亲手制作
if we weren’t making it here
我们绝对做不到
and making it ourselves,
我们可以说我们关注每一只包袋
and we can really say that we look at every single piece
并确保它在出厂前是完美的
and make sure that it’s perfect before it goes out the door.
我们不仅仅是一家营销公司
We’re not just a marketing company,
而实际上是一家制造公司
but we’re actually, we’re a maker company.

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译制信息
视频概述

介绍一家美国本土的手工皮具工厂

听录译者

收集自网络

翻译译者

微雨蕃

审核员

审核员 GK

视频来源

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=knz00SxTm9c

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