When you think of Art Nouveau,
想到新艺术派时
you probably picture the entrances to the Paris Metro
你的脑海中可能浮现出了巴黎地铁入口
with delicate swirling leaves and elegant glass canopy.
那里有微微飞旋的叶子和雅致的玻璃遮篷
Perhaps you envision Mucha’s posters
或许你会想象穆夏的海报
with dream-like women covered with flowers and jewelry.
上边有个被鲜花和珠宝簇拥的梦幻女郎
But what about this:
但这个呢：
a rock concert poster from 1967 featuring The Doors?
一幅于1967年描绘大门乐队摇滚音乐会的海报？
As surprising as it may seem,
或许有些令人惊讶
the style – sometimes referred to as
这种有时被称作
“Art Nouveau on Acid” –
“迷幻摇滚之上的新艺术派”的风格
has profoundly marked the aesthetics of
深刻地标志着
the era of free love and flower power.
信奉自由性爱与花之力的时代美学
In today’s video, we’ll learn about
在今天的视频里 我们将了解
this pure product of the Belle Époque
这个美好年代的纯粹产物
and why it has never quite gone away.
以及它从未真正过时的原因
文学 电影与戏剧 历史 建筑与设计 时尚 艺术
《好奇缪斯》
最好的艺术与文化
Art Nouveau was a highly decorative art movement
新艺术运动是由新中产阶级发起极具装饰性的
started by the new middle-class,
艺术运动
which established itself in cities throughout
世纪之交 新艺术派运动
Europe and the United States at the turn of the century.
在欧洲与美国的城市四处扎根
It was a genuinely cosmopolitan project of modernity
正是这个真正国际化的现代流派
that existed in all sorts of media, forms, scales, and geographies.
有各种各样的媒介 形式 尺寸 也出现在各种地方
Everything from architecture, interior design, decorative arts,
从建筑 室内设计 装饰艺术 时尚
fashion and graphic design was influenced by this new art.
到平面设计的每个领域 都受到这种新艺术影响
It was literally new since the term Art Nouveau
“新”是字面意思 因为术语Art Nouveau
is a French word for “new art.”
就是法语里的“新艺术”
So what was so new about it?
那么 它新在何处呢？
Well, the Art Nouveau movement was a very self-conscious
新艺术派运动是一群艺术家
and deliberate attempt by a group of artists,
非常自觉和刻意的尝试
including Les Vingt, who wished to create a “total work of art”
他们包括二十人社 即一群希望创造一种“整体艺术”
that would unify arts and crafts into a single aesthetic universe.
把艺术和工艺统一为单个美学体系的艺术家
Inspired by the teachings of French architect
受到法国建筑学家维奥特·勒·杜克
Eugène-Emmanuel Viollet-le-Duc,
英国设计师威廉·莫里斯
British designer William Morris, and the Art Craft movement,
和艺术工艺运动学说的启发
these revolutionary artists wanted to
这些革命性的艺术家 想要
tear down the hierarchy between fine arts
一劳永逸地破除美术
and the so-called lesser decorative arts
与所谓不那么富有装饰性的艺术
once and for all.
之间的等级差距
They were tired of the academic art
他们厌倦了学院派艺术
and historicism of 19th-century art
和崇尚十九世纪艺术的复古主义
and dreamed of creating a new form
梦想创造一种全新的艺术形式
that would be more appropriate to the age of
一种更加适合这个充满
electricity, cinema and automobiles.
电子 影院与汽车时代的艺术形式
Still, they didn’t like everything that the Industrial Revolution brought,
不过 他们却无法喜欢工业革命带来的一切
primarily growing mass production.
主要是讨厌日益增长的量产
They saw it as dehumanizing and were concerned that
他们觉得量产没人性 而且担心
it would bring uniformity and unimaginativeness into the realm of art.
它会让艺术领域变得整齐划一 了无生机
Therefore, Les Vingt and fellow artists
于是 二十人社和他们的艺术家同伴
suggested a return to crafts and nature
提议重新回到手艺和天性上
to create objects that would blend
去创造 融合了美术 手工工艺
fine arts, artisanal craftsmanship, beauty and function.
又兼具美观性和实用性的物件
Ironically, the Art Nouveau movement
讽刺的是
would not have reached its global scale
如果没有量产的话
had it not been for mass production.
新艺术运动也没法达到全球性的规模
This technology also gave artists access to modern materials,
量产技术也让艺术家能够使用现代材料
such as iron and later concrete,
比如钢铁和之后的混凝土
allowing them to realize their extraordinary designs
让他们从建筑到装饰物的
from buildings to decorative items.
绝妙设计都变成了现实
The most recognizable feature of the Art Nouveau style
新艺术派风格最易识别的特征
is undoubtedly the delicate use of curves and natural forms.
无疑是对曲线和自然外形的精妙使用
In nature, the artists found sinuous curves of plant life and insects
在自然中 艺术家在动植物身上发现的蜿蜒曲线
to inspire a lightness and sensuality of form
赋予了他们的作品轻盈而性感的外形
and a sense of movement in their work.
和一种动感
The style’s trademark whiplash curves and organic shapes
从建筑 室内装潢到插画
can be found everywhere,
到处都能发现这种风格
from architecture and interior décor to illustrations.
标志性的鞭状曲线和仿自然形状
The new art also found great inspiration from
新艺术派还在中世纪艺术 民间艺术
medieval art, folk art, Rococo style, and Japanese art.
洛可可风格和日本艺术中 找到了重要的灵感
Japanese influences are especially noticeable
日式风格对平面设计 家具
in graphic design, furniture, ceramics, and jewelry.
陶瓷和珠宝领域的影响尤为明显
But perhaps the most intriguing feature of Art Nouveau
不过或许新艺术派最吸引人的特点
is its obsession with the representation of the female form.
是其对描绘女性形象的痴迷
If you watched the 2016 movie Klimt
如果你看过2016年的电影《情欲克林姆》
starring John Malkovich as a famous artist,
其中约翰·马尔科维奇在里面饰演一位著名艺术家
you know what we mean.
你就知道我们是什么意思了
Art Nouveau artists draw inspiration
新艺术派艺术家
from the natural curves and beauty of the female body
受女性身体的美和自然曲线启发
to create a distinctly sensual and feminine appeal in their works.
在他们的作品中创造出一种格外性感的女性魅力
Let’s not forget that only the bourgeoisie had the means to
别忘了 只有中产阶级才有经济实力
fill their homes with lavish Art Nouveau items.
在家里摆满奢侈的新艺术风格物件
Therefore, this luxurious and overtly feminine look
因此 这种华丽而显然很女性化的形象
was deliberately designed and marketed
是特意为渴望时尚
for the middle-class female consumers
且收入不菲的中产阶级
with fashionable aspirations and significant incomes.
女性消费者设计和营销的
Female celebrities like Sarah Bernhardt and Loïe Fuller,
像沙拉·伯恩哈特和洛伊·富勒这样的女性名人
seen as personifications of the new, liberated woman,
她们被视作新兴解放女性的化身
were muses for many artists.
是众多艺术家的灵感缪斯
The daring new woman exemplified in the art of Klimt and Mucha
克林姆特和穆夏艺术中塑造的大胆新女性
was depicted with idealized body features, dressed in elegant costumes
被绘以理想的体态特征 被着以华美的衣着服饰
and endowed with a subtle erotic quality.
被赋以含蓄的情色元素
One could say they are reminiscent of Pre-Raphaelite representations of women
有人会说 他们联想到了前拉斐尔派对女性的描绘
and they wouldn’t be wrong.
他们没有搞错
The most iconic representation of this new, femme fatale
这些对新兴美女的描绘中最标志性的
is by all means Klimt’s Judith I.
一定是克林姆特的《朱迪斯 1》
The Old Testament heroine
这位《旧约》的女主人公
is shown daringly nude and sensual,
大胆地裸露着 模样性感
holding the head of the Holofernes like a trophy.
提着荷罗孚尼的脑袋 仿佛那是一件战利品
She’s a powerful, self-conscious woman
她是个强大而自觉的女人
who proudly claims control over her body and sexuality,
骄傲地宣告着对自己肉体和性欲的掌控
depriving men of their dominant role in society.
剥夺男人在社会中的主导者角色
Art Nouveau had many names
印刷与出版行业的进步
and reached many places at an amazing speed
使得有着许多的名字的新艺术派
thanks to advances in printing and publishing.
以惊人的速度传至许多地方
France is a country the new art is most associated with.
法国是与这个新艺术流派联系最紧密的国家
There it was called by many names besides Art Nouveau.
那里 除了“新艺术派” 它还有众多的名字
The most amusing are Style Jules Verne, Style Mucha and Style Métro.
最令人发笑的当属儒勒·凡尔纳风 穆夏风和地铁风
There are a few moments that marked the spread of the new art in France.
有一些时间点标志着新艺术派在法国的传播
First, it was the appearance of an advertising poster
第一个是 阿尔丰斯·穆夏
produced by Alphonse Mucha for the play Gismonda
为剧目《吉斯蒙达》制作的广告海报的出现
starring Sarah Bernhard in Paris in 1895.
这部剧由沙拉·伯恩哈特主演 于1895年在巴黎上映
The poster was an overnight sensation.
海报一夜成名
Parisians fell in love with it so much
巴黎人太爱这海报了
that they tore it down and carried it home to decorate the walls.
以至于撕了下来 带回家里装饰自家的墙
Later that year, an art dealer Siegfried Bing
同年晚些时候 艺术品经销商Siegfried Bing
opened a gallery in Paris to sell
在巴黎开了家画廊
art and design objects in the new style.
卖些新风格的艺术设计物件
He named his gallery “Maison de l’Art Nouveau.”
他给画廊取名“新艺术之家”
By the time The 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris took place,
在1900年的巴黎世博会上
Art Nouveau was met with great acclaim.
新艺术派大受赞扬
The famous event served as a big spreader of the style.
这个著名活动成了它有力的传播媒介
《好奇缪斯》
Despite its great popularity,
尽管新艺术派很出名
Art Nouveau only lasted until the eve of the First World War.
它也只延续到一战前夕
The decline of social classes, which led to the Great War,
社会阶层的衰落带来了一战
revealed that the style
也揭示了一个事实 这个风格
was based on utopian ideals
需要基于乌托邦般理想的社会
and, as such, a short-lived phenomenon of the Belle Époque.
也同样受到短暂的“好时代”现象加持
After giving way to the Art Déco style in the 1920s,
上世纪二十年代 新艺术派被装饰艺术风格取代
Art Nouveau was forgotten for many decades.
之后 它被遗忘了几十年
In the 1960s,
上世纪六十年代
the style was the object of unexpected revival.
令人意想不到的是 新艺术派复兴了
Its feminine designs with organic forms
它那有着仿自然外形的女性化设计
inspired the graphics of the psychedelic movement in the 1960s and 1970s.
给上世纪六七十年代“迷幻艺术运动”的平面设计带来了启发
Despite its quiet death 100 years ago,
尽管新艺术派销声匿迹了一百年
the style still has a fond place in many hearts
但它始终活在许多爱好者的心中
and continues to live on!
它继续存在着！
The current decade is witnessing
这十年来
the re-emergence of Style Mucha and retro 1970s design
穆夏风和七十年代复古风的设计
in fields as varied as street art, graphic art,
重新出现在街头艺术 平面设计
fashion, and interior design,
时尚 室内设计等各种领域
proving that the wealth and beauty of its forms
这证明 我们值得去再一次发掘
are worth rediscovering once again.
这种形式的丰富与美丽
Hey muses, so what do you think about Art Nouveau?
各位观众朋友 你们怎么看新艺术派呢？
Do you enjoy this style?
你喜欢它吗？
Let us know in the comments
在评论区告诉我们吧
and don’t forget to subscribe to our channel and podcast
别忘了订阅我们的频道和博客
for more great content like this one.
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